Luggala G & H Buttresses - Revision history

Shayoh at 21:01, 26 March 2021

2021-03-26T21:01:08Z

Shayoh: /* H BUTTRESS - WEST FACE */

2021-03-26T20:59:40Z

H BUTTRESS - WEST FACE

Shayoh at 20:57, 26 March 2021

2021-03-26T20:57:32Z

Shayoh: /* G BUTTRESS */ Topos added

2021-03-26T20:53:56Z

G BUTTRESS: Topos added

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Shayoh: /* G BUTTRESS */

2021-03-26T20:32:14Z

G BUTTRESS

Shayoh: /* G BUTTRESS */

2021-03-26T20:31:48Z

G BUTTRESS

Shayoh: /* G BUTTRESS */

2021-03-26T20:31:08Z

G BUTTRESS

Daveh: 1 revision imported

2021-03-09T17:05:13Z

1 revision imported

ico>Shayoh at 10:26, 5 July 2011

2011-07-05T10:26:25Z

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@@ Line 341: / Line 341: @@
 . 20m Move back left and follow a line of weakness diagonally left to a short square-cut opening which leads to a ledge below the final wall. Climb this, starting a few metres right of the arête finish of Sirius, past short cracks and tiny ledges, moving slightly right before finishing below blocks in the corner above.<br>
 J. Lyons, J. Stark, 4/9/1990
 H BUTTRESS GIRDLE &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;60m &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;M<br>

@@ Line 5: / Line 5: @@
 [[File:G buttress Luggala.jpg|800px|G Buttress]]
-'''G Buttress is a mostly vegetated ridge-like feature whose climbing interest is related to the presence of a few rock outcrops where routes have been developed since the 1990s .<br>
+'''G Buttress is a mostly vegetated ridge-like feature whose climbing interest is related to the presence of a few rock outcrops where routes have been developed since the 1990s .<br>'''
 These outcrops are on the upper part of the ridge, separated by a long diagonal rake which stretches from bottom left to top right. Above the rake at the top of the ridge is a slabby area, undercut in part by an overhang; below and left of these slabs is a rocky ridge. Below and to the right of the rake there is a small crag capped by an overhang located just above a steep ravine and to the left of a mine adit.<br>
-The routes on the upper slabs and the ridge below it are approached by descending the rocky heathery rake from the right. The two routes on the ridge are described first and then the routes on the slab above.'''
+The routes on the upper slabs and the ridge below it are approached by descending the rocky heathery rake from the right. The two routes on the ridge are described first and then the routes on the slab above.
 . OUT OF THE BLUE&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;50m&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;HVS&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(5a)<br>
@@ Line 135: / Line 135: @@
 [[File:G page 102 Luggala.jpg|800px|H Buttress West Face]]
-The West Face is not one continuous face but rather two buttresses offset by a short, cracked, bulging wall. The Upper West Face is the larger of the two with a dozen lines, some of which have two pitches. The Lower West Face has fewer routes and these are mostly rather short. Despite the somewhat broken and vegetated appearance of the West Face the climbs are generally clean with reliable rock. With some exceptions protection is reasonable and the Face does not have the serious air of some of the other cliffs at Luggala. The following climbs are found on the Upper West Face starting on the left about 30 - 40m down the gully at a small compact buttress.
+'''The West Face is not one continuous face but rather two buttresses offset by a short, cracked, bulging wall. The Upper West Face is the larger of the two with a dozen lines, some of which have two pitches. The Lower West Face has fewer routes and these are mostly rather short. Despite the somewhat broken and vegetated appearance of the West Face the climbs are generally clean with reliable rock. With some exceptions protection is reasonable and the Face does not have the serious air of some of the other cliffs at Luggala. The following climbs are found on the Upper West Face starting on the left about 30 - 40m down the gully at a small compact buttress.'''
 IN THE BEGINNING&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;9m&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;VD<br>
@@ Line 286: / Line 286: @@
 ====H BUTTRESS - SOUTH FACE====
-'''This generally steep wall is recognisable by its horizontal to diagonal crack lines and the overhangs on its right-hand side. The climbing tends to be steep but not sustained, offering rest-points in between the energetic bursts. Protection is mostly reasonable though sometimes well spaced requiring a confident approach. Access to most of the routes on the South Face is either upslope via the toilsome scree of South Gully or downslope via the short gully on the right-hand side of the Face.<br>
+'''This generally steep wall is recognisable by its horizontal to diagonal crack lines and the overhangs on its right-hand side. The climbing tends to be steep but not sustained, offering rest-points in between the energetic bursts. Protection is mostly reasonable though sometimes well spaced requiring a confident approach. Access to most of the routes on the South Face is either upslope via the toilsome scree of South Gully or downslope via the short gully on the right-hand side of the Face.<br>'''
-The following group of six short climbs is found on the upper left-hand side of the South Face where a buttress with small overhangs stands above the grassy rake of H Buttress Girdle. They are reached from the top of the crag by a short easy descent near the intersection of the West and South Faces and by then switching back to the left for a few metres to reach the shorter left side of the buttress.'''
+The following group of six short climbs is found on the upper left-hand side of the South Face where a buttress with small overhangs stands above the grassy rake of H Buttress Girdle. They are reached from the top of the crag by a short easy descent near the intersection of the West and South Faces and by then switching back to the left for a few metres to reach the shorter left side of the buttress.
 [[File:G page 115 Luggala.jpg|800px|H Buttress South Face]]

@@ Line 132: / Line 132: @@
 ====H BUTTRESS - WEST FACE====
-[[File:G page 102 Luggala.jpg|thumb|H Buttress West Face]]
 The West Face is not one continuous face but rather two buttresses offset by a short, cracked, bulging wall. The Upper West Face is the larger of the two with a dozen lines, some of which have two pitches. The Lower West Face has fewer routes and these are mostly rather short. Despite the somewhat broken and vegetated appearance of the West Face the climbs are generally clean with reliable rock. With some exceptions protection is reasonable and the Face does not have the serious air of some of the other cliffs at Luggala. The following climbs are found on the Upper West Face starting on the left about 30 - 40m down the gully at a small compact buttress.
@@ Line 163: / Line 165: @@
 Start 2-3m right of Sceptre at the right end of a narrow heather ledge on the left of a slabby wall. Take the left edge of the slabby wall to gain the grass ledge on the left. Move up to the ledge of Sceptre and then right into a corner which is climbed directly (crux) to the top.<br>
 J. Lyons, J. Ó Reilly, 1/8/1990.
-[[File:G page 106 Luggala.jpg|thumb|H Buttress West Face]]
@@ Line 221: / Line 224: @@
 An old route with a vague description. It appears to take the wide crack just right of the Sunchaser corner to a block belay above on the ridge before finishing up a series of walls on the left.<br>
 W.R. Perrott, P. Kenny, 25/6/1950
-[[File:G page 112 Luggala.jpg|alt=H Buttress Lower West Face|thumb]]
@@ Line 284: / Line 288: @@
 '''This generally steep wall is recognisable by its horizontal to diagonal crack lines and the overhangs on its right-hand side. The climbing tends to be steep but not sustained, offering rest-points in between the energetic bursts. Protection is mostly reasonable though sometimes well spaced requiring a confident approach. Access to most of the routes on the South Face is either upslope via the toilsome scree of South Gully or downslope via the short gully on the right-hand side of the Face.<br>
 The following group of six short climbs is found on the upper left-hand side of the South Face where a buttress with small overhangs stands above the grassy rake of H Buttress Girdle. They are reached from the top of the crag by a short easy descent near the intersection of the West and South Faces and by then switching back to the left for a few metres to reach the shorter left side of the buttress.'''
 ALONZO &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;8m &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;HS&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(4b)<br>

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:32, 26 March 2021
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	==G BUTTRESS==		==G BUTTRESS==
−	[[File:G buttress Luggala.jpg\|~~600px~~\|G Buttress]]	+	[[File:G buttress Luggala.jpg\|800px\|G Buttress]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 20:31, 26 March 2021
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	==G BUTTRESS==		==G BUTTRESS==
−	[[File:G buttress Luggala.jpg\|~~thumb~~\|G Buttress]]	+	[[File:G buttress Luggala.jpg\|600px\|G Buttress]]

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 [http://www.mountaineering.ie/news/viewdetails.asp?ID=363 Printed guidebook available here]
 ==G BUTTRESS==
@@ Line 106: / Line 106: @@
 . 15m Climb the rib, first on the right and then on the left (loose rock) to its junction with the main buttress.<br>
 J. Lynam, P. Conroy, 4/9/1983
-'''
-About halfway between G and H Buttress there is a narrow rock ridge where two routes are found.'''
+About halfway between G and H Buttress there is a narrow rock ridge where two routes are found.
 BORDERLINE&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;50m&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;VS&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;(4b)<br>

← Older revision	Revision as of 17:05, 9 March 2021
(No difference)