Lower Cove - Revision history

Daveh at 17:28, 22 March 2021

2021-03-22T17:28:55Z

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2021-03-22T17:28:39Z

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Daveh at 17:08, 22 March 2021

2021-03-22T17:08:09Z

Daveh at 17:06, 22 March 2021

2021-03-22T17:06:16Z

Daveh: Created page with "Set about half way up the Annalong Valley these cliffs are among the steepest and best in the Mournes. The majority of the routes are south-facing, largely free of vegetation..."

2021-03-09T17:17:55Z

Created page with "Set about half way up the Annalong Valley these cliffs are among the steepest and best in the Mournes. The majority of the routes are south-facing, largely free of vegetation..."

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 Set about half way up the Annalong Valley these cliffs are among the steepest and best in the Mournes. The majority of the routes are south-facing, largely free of vegetation and will dry quickly. The crags have as a result proven to be popular and offer a large number of quality routes at a wide range of grades on invariably excellent rock with positive holds and generally very good to excellent protection.
-<display_map zoom="14">54.164827, -5.952069~Lower Cove</display_map>
+<display_map zoom="14" type=satellite>54.164827, -5.952069~Lower Cove</display_map>
 From the car park (345219) at the bottom of the Carrick Little Track follow the track to the farthest edge of the forest and continue for 120m to a junction in the track. Take the right-hand branch across the river to gain the crag after about 1500m fairly directly along the good track. About one hour's walk from the car park to the stone sheep-fold below Third Corner Buttress.

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 Left Arete 12m E2 5c<br />
-C. Torrans, D. O'Sullivan. 7/11/87.<br />
+C. Torrans, D. O'Sullivan. 7/11/87.<br />Follows the left arete of First Corner Gully and the climbing is more imaginative than the name suggests. Climb crack in gully wall. Swing left and mantelshelf up onto ledge. Climb the wall just left of arete finishing up short crack.
-Follows the left arete of First Corner Gully and the climbing is more imaginative than the name suggests. Climb crack in gully wall. Swing left and mantelshelf up onto ledge. Climb the wall just left of arete finishing up short crack.
+==FIRST CORNER BUTTRESS==
 '''The first three climbs start up on the right-hand side of First Corner Gully.'''
-Tyro 18m VD
+'''Tyro''' 18m VD<br />B. White and Party.<br />Takes the groove and chimney half way up the right-hand wall.
-Edge On * 25m E3 (6a/b)
+'''North Wall''' * 30m S (3c)<br />An exploratory-type route taking a meandering line of least resistance up the wall between Tyro and First Corner (about 2-3m left of First Corner).
-E. Cooper, A. Moles. 1989.
+'''First Corner''' ** 27m HS (4b)<br />F. Devlin, J. McGrath. 30/6/65.<br />Start right-hand edge of First Corner Gully. Climb arete up to a ledge on left. Continue straight up (4c) or, more easily and more naturally, step left and up the gully wall 3m and back onto the arete to finish.
-A surprisingly well protected exercise in technical footwork. Start the obvious groove just right of arete. Climb the groove, difficulties at its top and straight up the right side of the arete to join First Corner and follow this to the top.
+'''Edge On''' * 25m E3 (6a/b)<br />E. Cooper, A. Moles. 1989.<br />A surprisingly well protected exercise in technical footwork. Start the obvious groove just right of arete. Climb the groove, difficulties at its top and straight up the right side of the arete to join First Corner and follow this to the top.
 '''The next three routes start on a grassy ledge just right of First Corner, 3m above the gully floor.'''
-Meat Grinder *** 25m E2 (5c)
+'''Meat Grinder''' *** 25m E2 (5c)<br />P. Douglas, M. Smith, W. Holmes. 7/80.<br />A fine route which just merits the grade and easing after the crux which is moving between the off-set cracks. Start at wall below obvious crack in the wall 5m right of First Corner. Up the short steep wall to gain the first crack. Climb this to reach good horizontal break and gain the crack above (crux). Then more easily up this crack and wall above to the top.
-E Cooper. 7/8/82.
+'''Salami Rushdie''' 26m E4 (6b)<br />E. Cooper, A. Moles. 1989.<br />A well protected crux and nice climbing. Start as for Meat Grinder. Climb the crux section of Meat Grinder. Move left, feet in horizontal break and climb the wall between Meat Grinder and Edge On.
-Start as for Meat Grinder. Climb the wall to the crack. Move right to the arete (crux) and up arete keeping left at top, as for Overdue. Variation Direct Start E3 (5c/6a) E. Cooper, A. Moles. 1989. Start on a ledge 3m off the ground beneath some obvious holes at the base of the vague arete right of Meat Grinder. Climb up and right of these before moving back left to join the original route
+'''The Great Treacle Sponge Robbery''' * 24m El (5b)<br />E Cooper. 7/8/82.<br />Start as for Meat Grinder. Climb the wall to the crack. Move right to the arete (crux) and up arete keeping left at top, as for Overdue. Variation Direct Start E3 (5c/6a) E. Cooper, A. Moles. 1989. Start on a ledge 3m off the ground beneath some obvious holes at the base of the vague arete right of Meat Grinder. Climb up and right of these before moving back left to join the original route
 Dot To Dot ** E3 (5b, 5c)
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 Start at the wall below the parallel cracks. Climb easily up to the right-hand crack. Follow crack until it terminates. Then continue up a short steep wall (crux) to top.
-== SECOND CORNER BUTTRESS ==
+==SECOND CORNER BUTTRESS==
 This buttress is characterised by its impressive south facing wall with its bands of horizontal roofs. Left of this is a detached broken buttress which is separated from Second Corner Buttress by a gully and is climbed by The Water Margin VD but is not recommended. However the right-hand wall of the gully forms the west face of Second Corner Buttress and provides good, steep climbing which is more delicate than strenuous. '''WEST WALL''' The wall is characterised by its curving roof system and at its left-hand end a prominent crack (Gynocrat) starting above a series of small overhangs. The first route is located slightly farther up the left-hand end of the gully wall.
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 Start on the big grass ledge 20m right of the top of Cumulus pitch 1. Climb via flakes to a large clean ledge. Up short, left leaning crack to a bulge and step right to finish up hand crack/flake (crux).
-== THIRD CORNER BUTTRESS ==
+==THIRD CORNER BUTTRESS==
 This is the most distinctive feature on the crag owing to the entrance of Cove Cave lying just to its right. A small amphitheatre exists at the back of the cave and this may be reached by scrambling through the cave, or by simply walking up Third Corner Gully. Three climbs and an aid route exist in the amphitheatre.
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 Start there is a horizontal platform in the middle of the upper wall. Gain the platform at its left-hand end, past a diamond-shaped chockstone, then left to hand jam the wall above.
-== FOURTH CORNER BUTTRESS ==
+==FOURTH CORNER BUTTRESS==
 This buttress is the distinctive steep face clearly visible at the right-hand side of the crag on the approach. The most obvious feature is a triangular recess half-way along the face with a compelling crack line directly above the line of Praxis. The rock is excellent and offers varied routes with a fair amount of exposure. The first two routes start up Fourth Corner Gully on the left-hand side of the buttress.
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 ) 22m Either walk up grass to top, or walk across to the base of a slab, and move up from a sheaf of blocks against the wall, keeping to the nose above and to the right above that.
-== EAST FACE ==
+==EAST FACE==
 The East Face lies to the right and round the corner of the Fourth Corner face. It is very impressive, somewhat lighter in colour and vegetation free, extremely steep and has much prospect for future high grade routes.

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 Left of the four main buttresses are two very much smaller buttresses the left-hand most mini-buttress is a wander at will area giving harder problems on its right - put on the rope if you like. Climbs start on the small buttress, with an obvious rock archway at its left-hand side and lies immediately left of First Corner Gully. The climbs are described from left to right.
-Half Corner 18m VS (4b)
+Half Corner 18m VS (4b)<br />
+R. Cole. M. Smith. 4/12/78.<br />
 Although short, sustained and awkward. Start 1 m left of the left-hand side of the above mentioned archway. Climb the wall and crack to the underside of the archway. Move up and left round a roof to the top a ledge and continue easily to the top.
@@ Line 19: / Line 17: @@
 '''Just right of the archway is a short steep wall with a crackline at either end, the one on the right is Kissing Kerry.'''
-Krammed E1 5a Although a poorly protected route it has positive moves and is worth the effort. Start 1m left of Kram and below the arete. Move up flutings to the spacious ledge below a large horizontal flake. Using the flake gain a pinch and small edges above to join the last move of Kram left-hand finish.
+Krammed E1 5a <br />
 Although a poorly protected route it has positive moves and is worth the effort. Start 1m left of Kram and below the arete. Move up flutings to the spacious ledge below a large horizontal flake. Using the flake gain a pinch and small edges above to join the last move of Kram left-hand finish.
 A short crux but steep climbing on good holds. Start at a point between the two cracklines in the centre of the wall. Climb the wall to a bulge, surmount this (crux) and climb the blocky wall above. Variation Left-hand Finish VS (4c) M. Smith. R. Cole. 7/6/80. Up the wall to bulge but traverse to the left-hand crack and pull over the top (loose flake).
-Kissing Kerry 25m VS (4c)
+Kissing Kerry 25m VS (4c)<br />
+W. Poots, A. Walker. 11/9/88.<br />
 Start at the base of right-hand crackline below the overhang. Surmount the overhang to reach a large ledge. Climb the crack until it fades in a bulge at half-height. A high reach right allows further progress.
-'''Two rather average routes have been squeezed into the wall right of this. They are Reeling Rosie VS (W. Poots, A. Walker. 11/9/88.) and climbs the blunt arete 2m right of Kissing Kerry and Not the Sea VS (K. Lindsay et al. 9/6/90.) which takes wall behind the small holly tree and traverse leftwards to finish up Kram.'''
+Two rather average routes have been squeezed into the wall right of this. They are Reeling Rosie VS (W. Poots, A. Walker. 11/9/88.) and climbs the blunt arete 2m right of Kissing Kerry and Not the Sea VS (K. Lindsay et al. 9/6/90.) which takes wall behind the small holly tree and traverse leftwards to finish up Kram.
 Start in the middle of the next section of wall that lies to the right of the Kram face, and just left of First Corner Gully. Ascend to a large platform. Climb the wall above (steep) and exit to the left passing an ancient peg.
-Left Arete 12m E2 5c
+Left Arete 12m E2 5c<br />
+C. Torrans, D. O'Sullivan. 7/11/87.<br />
 Follows the left arete of First Corner Gully and the climbing is more imaginative than the name suggests. Climb crack in gully wall. Swing left and mantelshelf up onto ledge. Climb the wall just left of arete finishing up short crack.