Knockadoon Head - Revision history

Barry watts: /* Fulmar Wall */

2026-11-02T14:08:44Z

Fulmar Wall

Lorenzo at 16:03, 6 March 2025

2025-03-06T16:03:39Z

Barry watts: /* Cave Wall */

2025-02-16T21:12:44Z

Cave Wall

Barry watts: /* Introduction */

2024-02-02T16:20:06Z

Introduction

Barry watts: /* Introduction */

2024-02-02T16:04:40Z

Introduction

HansGruber at 15:07, 12 August 2022

2022-08-12T15:07:34Z

Superterence: /* Cylinder Slab */

2022-04-29T13:24:55Z

Cylinder Slab

Daveh at 11:51, 27 March 2021

2021-03-27T11:51:09Z

Daveh: Formatting

2021-03-27T11:48:17Z

Formatting

Show changes

Daveh: 1 revision imported

2021-03-09T17:05:12Z

1 revision imported

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 Start about 5m right of the narrow cave, on a good ledge above the high-water mark, below a right-facing, overhanging corner on the left side of the slab above the wall. Climb up over ledges to the foot of the corner. Move up this on flakes and climb the slab via the corner crack, laybacking or bridging as preferred. Good protection.
-'''Prophet of Doon.''' 	35m.	VS 4C<br>
+'''Prophet of Doon.''' 	35m.	VS 4c<br>''G. Moss L. Convery 27/3/04''<br>Varied climbing, with a well protected crux. Start about 10m right of Flight Control and the narrow cave, on a good ledge above the high-water mark and directly below a 3m flake that forms a right-facing crack near the top of the wall. Climb easily to the crack and up this to the top of the flake. Make a difficult mantelshelf onto the horizontal crack above (crux) A delicate step up onto the slab is followed by a short, delicate traverse right to gain a thin crack. Follow this (small wires), to the top.
 '''Lifted Her Petticoat.''' 	25m.	HS<br>

@@ Line 42: / Line 42: @@
 '''Gold n Topsy.''' 	22m	HS (Now HVS 5a)<br>''P. Britton, G. Moss, 16/08/03''<br>Start 3m left of the right end of the wall. Climb the crack then traverse rightwards and climb the face near the outside corner. Finish up the top 3m vertical crack. ('''''Notes of 22 Jul 2010 by P.Britton: This climb is now harder following the loss of some rock off the outside corner below the upper crack. The grade is now HVS 5a)'''''
-'''Flight Control''' 	20m	HVS 5a<br>''P. Britton, D. Broderick, 16/08/03''<br>Start just right of and around from the main wall, at a rock runway left of the narrow cave. Climb a 4m rightward trending sharp crack up the face of a white pillar. Move left above the crack then back right to mantelshelf the top of the pillar. Climb more easily from here to the top, finding protection in the exit crack of Gold n Topsy.
+'''Flight Control''' 	20m	HVS 5a (Now E1 5b)<br>''P. Britton, D. Broderick, 16/08/03''<br>Start just right of and around from the main wall, at a rock runway left of the narrow cave. Climb a 4m rightward trending sharp crack up the face of a white pillar. Move left above the crack then back right to mantelshelf the top of the pillar. Climb more easily from here to the top, finding protection in the exit crack of Gold n Topsy. '''(Notes of winter 2024 by Lorenzo De Bonis: This climb is also now harder following the loss of more rock off the outside corner below the upper crack. The upper half of the route now requires exciting lay-back moves more pertinent to an E1 than HVS. Still a great climb and IMO the best test piece of Knockadoon).'''
 [[File:Kad10.jpg|alt=|none|thumb|786x786px|Flight Control]]

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 This marks the western limits of the climbing area, approx. 500m westof the tower (about 6 - 8 minutes walk).
-Approach. Take the rough cart-track on the right of the entrance to the tower field, ignoring a turn to the right. Just before the track ends in a field leave it at a right-hand bend and follow the narrow path parallel to the coast, passing some tottering pillars (Crumble Corner) at the back of a cove. The path deteriorates as it crosses a rough hollow but improves as it rises again. After about another 150m, at the path's highest point, leave it and go down sharp left towards a small headland containing a large cave. At half to low-tide scramble down over the cave and traverse back east(right facing in) to the foot of the climbs. At full-tide abseil down the corner of Crack of Doon.
+Approach. Take the rough cart-track on the right of the entrance to the tower field, ignoring a turn to the right. Just before the track ends in a field leave it at a right-hand bend and follow the narrow path parallel to the coast, passing some tottering pillars (Crumble Corner) at the back of a cove. The path deteriorates as it crosses a rough hollow but improves as it rises again. After about another 150m, at the path's highest point, leave it and go down sharp left towards a small headland containing a large cave. At half to low-tide scramble down over the cave and traverse back east (right facing in) to the foot of the climbs. At full-tide abseil down the corner of Crack of Doon.
 ===Cave Wall===
-'''The Oldest Winger.''' 	10m	S<br>
+'''The Oldest Winger.''' 	10m	S<br>''G. Moss, S. O Hanlon, F. Kenny. 16/08/03''<br>Start 4m west (left) of the cave exit, directly below a small overhang with good undercuts. Climb to the overhang and, using a thin quartz vein above, move left to a flake then back right above the overhang. Move up to a belay.
-'''C.F.T.''' 	15m	D<br>
+'''C.F.T.''' 	15m	D<br>''S. O Hanlon, F. Kenny, G. Moss 16/08/03''<br>Traverses the cave from east to West Half-to-low tide. An atmospheric outing on a windy day. Start at the mouth of the cave. Chimney up and out through the back of the cave.
-''The following four climbs take the cracks in the wall above right of the cave entrance and leftof the main face.''
+''The following four climbs take the cracks in the wall above right of the cave entrance and left of the main face.''
-'''Exit Left''' 	14m.	HS 4b<br>
+'''Exit Left''' 	14m.	HS 4b<br>''G. Moss, P. Britton 16/08/03''<br>An abortive attempt to climb the twin parallel cracks immediately right of the left edge. Climb to a small foothold below the final steepening. Move out left and up to finish. A direct finish would be more fitting, though harder.<br>'''Variation''' 		VS 4c Direct finish.
-'''Fran the Man.''' 	15m	S<br>
+'''Fran the Man.''' 	15m	S<br>''F. Kenny , S. O Hanlon 16/08/03''<br>The deep cracks to the right of above.
-'''Dungarvan''' 	14m	S<br>
+'''Dungarvan''' 	14m	S<br>''D. Broderick, S. O Hanlon, F. Kenny. 16/08/03''<br>The red cracks just right of Fran.
-'''Crack of Doon''' 	16m	S<br>
+'''Crack of Doon''' 	16m	S<br>''G. Moss, P. Britton, 16/08/03''<br>The crack in the corner between Cave Wall and West End Wall.
 [[File:Crackofdoon.jpg|alt=|none|thumb|800x800px|Crack of Doon]]
 '''West End Wall.'''
@@ Line 47: / Line 34: @@
 The wall at right-angles to Cave Wall Cracks.
-'''Up and Doon.''' 	17 m	HVS 5a<br>
+'''Up and Doon.''' 	17 m	HVS 5a<br>''G. Moss L. Convery 26/5/04''<br>The thin crack just right of Crack of Doon and left of the inverted v-notch gives good, fingery climbing.
-'''No Toll,''' 	17m	VS 4c<br>
+'''No Toll,''' 	17m	VS 4c<br>''C. Ennis, J. Kinsella, 16/08/03''<br>Start about 3m right of Crack of Doon. An inverted v-notch leads to a vertical crack on it's right, which is gained by bridging moves. Sustained climbing.
-'''Iced Log''' 	20m	HVS 5a<br>
+'''Iced Log''' 	20m	HVS 5a<br>''P. Britton, D. Broderick, 16/08/03''<br>The thin finger crack in the right facing corner that runs up the centre of the wall.
-'''Gold n Topsy.''' 	22m	HS (Now HVS 5a)<br>
+'''Gold n Topsy.''' 	22m	HS (Now HVS 5a)<br>''P. Britton, G. Moss, 16/08/03''<br>Start 3m left of the right end of the wall. Climb the crack then traverse rightwards and climb the face near the outside corner. Finish up the top 3m vertical crack. ('''''Notes of 22 Jul 2010 by P.Britton: This climb is now harder following the loss of some rock off the outside corner below the upper crack. The grade is now HVS 5a)'''''
-'''Flight Control''' 	20m	HVS 5a<br>
+'''Flight Control''' 	20m	HVS 5a<br>''P. Britton, D. Broderick, 16/08/03''<br>Start just right of and around from the main wall, at a rock runway left of the narrow cave. Climb a 4m rightward trending sharp crack up the face of a white pillar. Move left above the crack then back right to mantelshelf the top of the pillar. Climb more easily from here to the top, finding protection in the exit crack of Gold n Topsy.
 [[File:Kad10.jpg|alt=|none|thumb|786x786px|Flight Control]]

@@ Line 2: / Line 2: @@
 Grid Ref X 089 695, OS Map 81 Discovery Series, is the western tip of Youghal Bay, and lies 8 km south of Youghal town as the crow flies. The rock is categorized as Gyleen Formation - sandstone, with mudstone and siltstone and, in general, is sound, with good friction and good gear placements. As with all sea-cliffs, the more open the rock is to the scouring power of the waves, the cleaner and sounder it is. The main type of climbing on offer is on slabs, with the occasional steep wall thrown in for good measure.
-Approach. Leave the Youghal/Cork road a little west of Youghal, signpost for Gortroe, and head for the village of Ballymacoda. Follow the road through the village towards Knockadoon Pier (which is where the road ends). At a distance of less than 500m from the pier take a dirt road on the right (signpost for Knockadoon Dominican Youth Camp). Follow the laneway to where it ends at a car park right of and before an old tower. Going through the gate you will see a newer watch hut and a stone EIRE sign on the ground. There is now a good walking path along the cliff top called the Capel Head Trail although once leaving this the approaches can be rougher underfoot
+Approach. Leave the Youghal/Cork road a little west of Youghal, signpost for Gortroe, and head for the village of Ballymacoda. Follow the road through the village towards Knockadoon Pier (which is where the road ends). At a distance of less than 500m from the pier (signpost for Knockadoon Dominican Youth Camp) take a dirt road on the right . Follow the laneway to where it ends at a car park right of and before an old tower. Going through the gate you will see a newer watch hut and a stone EIRE sign on the ground. There is now a good walking path along the cliff top called the Capel Head Trail although once leaving this the approaches can be rougher underfoot.[[image:kadaaa.jpeg|600pxl]]
 The climbing areas, and the climbs within each area, are described from west to east (left to right, facing in).

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 Grid Ref X 089 695, OS Map 81 Discovery Series, is the western tip of Youghal Bay, and lies 8 km south of Youghal town as the crow flies. The rock is categorized as Gyleen Formation - sandstone, with mudstone and siltstone and, in general, is sound, with good friction and good gear placements. As with all sea-cliffs, the more open the rock is to the scouring power of the waves, the cleaner and sounder it is. The main type of climbing on offer is on slabs, with the occasional steep wall thrown in for good measure.
-Approach. Leave the Youghal/Cork road a little west of Youghal, signpost for Gortroe, and head for the village of Ballymacoda. Follow the road through the village towards Knockadoon Pier (which is where the road ends). At a distance of less than 500m from the pier take a dirt road on the right (signpost for Knockadoon Camp). Follow the laneway to where it ends in a field in front of an old tower. Cars may be parked just inside the field. Although this is private land there are no access problems at present and, if climbers behave responsibly, this situation should remain unchanged.
+Approach. Leave the Youghal/Cork road a little west of Youghal, signpost for Gortroe, and head for the village of Ballymacoda. Follow the road through the village towards Knockadoon Pier (which is where the road ends). At a distance of less than 500m from the pier take a dirt road on the right (signpost for Knockadoon Dominican Youth Camp). Follow the laneway to where it ends at a car park right of and before an old tower. Going through the gate you will see a newer watch hut and a stone EIRE sign on the ground. There is now a good walking path along the cliff top called the Capel Head Trail although once leaving this the approaches can be rougher underfoot
 [[image:kadaaa.jpeg|600pxl]]

@@ Line 292: / Line 292: @@
 ==Tower Slabs==
-==='''Tower Slab West'''===
+===Tower Slab West===
 Follow the field boundary below the Tower to where it ends above a large cove (Boundary Cove). Tower Slab West is the slab immediately east of the cove (left facing out). Abseil down the centre of the slab to a ledge with a short wall behind it (about 23m).
@@ Line 324: / Line 324: @@
 Climb the centre crack. Scramble off right.
-==='''Tower Slab east'''===
+===Tower Slab East===
 From the top of Tower Slab west move east (left facing out), passing the head of a narrow inlet and scramble down over easy slabs, moving back west to the base of the long slab bordering the inlet.
@@ Line 347: / Line 347: @@
 ''G. Moss L. Convery 14/6/03''<br>
 Climb the long diagonal crack on the right facing sidewall overlooking the left side of Broad Slab.
 ''' Ó Bhun go Barr.''' 	35m	M<br>

@@ Line 199: / Line 199: @@
 ===Cylinder Slab===
+[[File:Knockdoon Rolly Poly crag Topo 1.jpg|thumb]]
-A lot of activity has seen the creation of five new relatively short routes and some boulder problems on this sheltered slab of rock. It is close to the parking area/main tower; to get to it, heading straight down towards the sea, pass the tower and the small concrete lookout building. Follow the path down to where it peters out. Swing right. Over an old small earth bank/wall go left. The ground steepens. Veer downwards, right and voila, if you have not fallen off the cliff backing the cove, you will have wandered correctly onto the top of the Rolly Poly slab. The climbs are not readily discernable from above. The slab is faced by a smaller slab. These two combine to give an overall V shape. All the climbs start from where these two slabs meet.
+A lot of activity has seen the creation of five new relatively short routes and some boulder problems on this sheltered slab of rock. It is close to the parking area/main tower; to get to it, heading straight down towards the sea, pass the tower and the small concrete lookout building. Follow the path down to where it peters out. Swing right. Over an old small earth bank/wall go left. The ground steepens. Veer downwards, right and voila, if you have not fallen off the cliff backing the cove, you will have wandered correctly onto the top of the Cylinder or Rolly Poly slab. The climbs are not readily discernable from above. The slab is faced by a smaller slab. These two combine to give an overall V shape. All the climbs start from where these two slabs meet.
 All the climbs have been done on lead to verify the grade. See the photographs Topo 1 & Topo 2 above.
 As you look at the slab. Starting on the far left and highest section:
+[[File:Knockadoon Rolly Poly Topo 2..jpg|thumb]]
 '''Half Banked'''. S, 10m. <br>
 ''Alan O’ Shea & Kevin Ring, Summer 2006.''<br>

@@ Line 18: / Line 18: @@
 Approach. Take the rough cart-track on the right of the entrance to the tower field, ignoring a turn to the right. Just before the track ends in a field leave it at a right-hand bend and follow the narrow path parallel to the coast, passing some tottering pillars (Crumble Corner) at the back of a cove. The path deteriorates as it crosses a rough hollow but improves as it rises again. After about another 150m, at the path's highest point, leave it and go down sharp left towards a small headland containing a large cave. At half to low-tide scramble down over the cave and traverse back east(right facing in) to the foot of the climbs. At full-tide abseil down the corner of Crack of Doon.
 ===Cave Wall===
@@ Line 49: / Line 47: @@
 ''G. Moss, P. Britton, 16/08/03''<br>
 The crack in the corner between Cave Wall and West End Wall.<br>
+[[File:Crackofdoon.jpg|alt=|none|thumb|800x800px|Crack of Doon]]
 '''West End Wall.'''
@@ Line 78: / Line 72: @@
 ''P. Britton, D. Broderick, 16/08/03''<br>
 Start just right of and around from the main wall, at a rock runway left of the narrow cave. Climb a 4m rightward trending sharp crack up the face of a white pillar. Move left above the crack then back right to mantelshelf the top of the pillar. Climb more easily from here to the top, finding protection in the exit crack of Gold n Topsy.
+[[File:Kad10.jpg|alt=|none|thumb|786x786px|Flight Control]]
 ===Fulmar Wall===
@@ Line 107: / Line 98: @@
 ''G. Moss L. Convery 23/9/03''<br>
 Start near the left end of the wall, below a thin crack that runs up to a short left facing corner/crack about 3m above. A couple of thin moves lead to a good hold and a mantelshelf below the corner. Climb the corner and move up slightly left to a higher, shallow, left facing corner with a thin crack. Up this to finish.<br>
+[[File:Mww1.jpg|alt=|none|thumb|785x785px|Doonesbury]]
 '''People Before Prophet.''' 		HVS 5a<br>
 ''G. Moss L. Convery 28/8/04''<br>
@@ Line 167: / Line 154: @@
 ''S. O Hanlon, F. Kenny, G. Moss. 17/08/03''<br>
 Start at the high-water mark below the crack. Move up and climb the crack which is hard to start.
+[[File:Oyb1.jpg|alt=|none|thumb|783x783px|On Yer Bike]]
 '''Black Ramp Crack.''' 	13m	HS 4a<br>
 ''F. Kenny, S. O Hanlon, G. Moss. 17/08/03''<br>
@@ Line 269: / Line 252: @@
 Climbs the right edge of the cleft. Poor protection.
-''Two gearless eliminate routes squeezed on to the blank slab between Cleft Right and W.M.D worth recording.
+''Two gearless eliminate routes squeezed on to the blank slab between Cleft Right and W.M.D worth recording.''
-(These may have been climbed before)''
+(These may have been climbed before)
 '''1.Moonwalk.''' (HS). <br>''M Donnelly, April/2011''<br>Start 1m right of 'Cleft right' on a large block at the base of the slab. Climb

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