Killary Crags - Revision history

Carlos at 18:44, 4 November 2025

2025-11-04T18:44:05Z

Carlos: /* Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag) */

2025-11-04T09:30:03Z

Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag)

Carlos at 13:57, 30 October 2025

2025-10-30T13:57:37Z

Carlos at 13:12, 30 October 2025

2025-10-30T13:12:47Z

Carlos: /* Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag) */

2025-10-30T13:05:05Z

Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag)

Show changes

Daveh: Fixed up the numbering

2023-05-15T08:24:19Z

Fixed up the numbering

Show changes

Daveh: Added info from Kevin Kilroy.

2023-05-15T08:19:34Z

Added info from Kevin Kilroy.

AlexR: /* Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag) */

2022-04-01T12:56:35Z

Killary Upper Crags (Pats Crag)

Daveh: Formatting

2021-03-23T19:38:29Z

Formatting

Daveh: /* Killary Crags – Harbour Crag */

2021-03-23T19:34:57Z

Killary Crags – Harbour Crag

@@ Line 195: / Line 195: @@
 A really good climb up the slab and hanging corner, exit upper overhang trending left<br>''Clare Wheatley, 2004''
 '''5.The Fly''' 16m S 4a
@@ Line 210: / Line 216: @@
 '''9.Difference of Opinion''' 10m VD<br>''Henry Wilkinson, Hugh Hunter 2009.''
-'''10.Hughes Route''' 10m S 4a<br>''Hugh Hunter 2009.''
+'''10.Hughes Route''' 10m S 4a
 '''11.Henrys Route''' 10m HS 4b<br>''Henry Wilkinson 2009.''
@@ Line 258: / Line 266: @@
 Excellent climbing with a steep start. <br>''Graham Brookes, 2009''
-'''27.Great Central''' 20m V.Diff<br>''Carl Maddox, 2004.''
+'''27.Great Central''' 20m V.Diff
 '''28.Lyons''' 10m S 4a<br>''Maura Lyons, 2009''
 '''29.Speckled Hen''' 18m E3 6a
 Steep arete, with small wires protection, easier climbing after 1/2 way.

@@ Line 23: / Line 23: @@
 '''R00a. Mind your own Business''' 9m Severe 4a<br>
 ''Clement Quinn 2011''<br>
-A lovely little climb, starting Left of West Wing on a clean brown slab which faces out towards Killary Harbour.
+A lovely little climb, with a delicate unprotected lower section. Left of West Wing is a clean brown south facing slab. Start on the left arete of the slab, climb up arete and delicate slab passing shallow cracks to an easier finish on the upper cracks.
-'''Peeping Tom''' V Diff 9m Carl Maddox<br>''Carl Maddox, Ciaran Lennon,''<br>
+'''Peeping Tom''' V Diff 9m Carl Maddox<br>''Carl Maddox, Ciaran Lennon, 2011''<br>
-Start right of Mind Your Own Business. Follow faint right-trending crack up slab (poorly protected start) then on to left trending crack where gear can be placed, follow crack to finish.
+Start right of Mind Your Own Business. Follow faint right-trending crack up slab (poorly protected start) then on to left trending crack where gear can be placed, follow crack to finish as for Mind your own business.
 '''R00b. West Wing''' 9m V.Diff<br>
@@ Line 40: / Line 39: @@
 <br>''Graham Brooks, Mark Bonner Spring 2010''<br>Start 3-4 meters right of First lady, in obvious short steep corner, climb directly up corner to tricky move to gain ledge, finish easily up chimney
-'''1c. Phat Chimney''' 10m Ungradable<br>
+'''1c. Phat Chimney''' 10m V Diff (old school) <br>
 ''Barry Smith, Carl Maddox, April 1998''<br>
 The entertaining chimney formed by the detached block
-'''2. Thin Lizzy''' 8m VS 4c<br>''Carl Maddox Solo, April 1998''<br>Lay back the arete on the right side of the massive detached block, until a good hold on the left wall can be reached. No Protection.
+'''2. Thin Lizzy''' 8m VS 4c<br>''Carl Maddox Solo, April 1998''<br>Lay back the arete on the right side of the massive detached block, until a good hold on the left wall can be reached, leading to the upper ledges. No Protection.
 '''2a. Happy Days *''' 9m VS 5a<br>''Hugh Hunter, Richie Byrne, Spring 2010''<br>Start right of Thin Lizzy, at triangular niche capped by overhang. Layback to overhang, and pull through strenuously to easier finish. A nice little climb, hard for the grade<br>
@@ Line 79: / Line 78: @@
 ''Just right of Gardeners delight is a short cleaned corner, with cracks high up on the left wall''
-'''8. Fire Starter *''' 14m E1 5b<br>
+'''8. Fire Starter *''' 14m E1 5b
 Start at clean corner, bridge up this to grass ledge, traverse left on good foot holds to steep crack, make a couple of hard moves, finishing directly up crack. Mostly Good Protection but hard to place on upper crux wall / cracks.
 ''A sharp right in the crag presents a steep, square cut jutting wall''
@@ Line 189: / Line 190: @@
 '''2.Stredel''' 18m HVS 5a<br>Led on pre placed protection and top rope practice, not yet onsighted (Bold upper walls and overhang crux!)
-'''3. Wonderly Wagon''' 14m V Diff/ Severe 4a<br>''Carl Maddox, 2004''
+'''3. Wanderley Wagon''' 14m V Diff/ Severe 4a<br>''Carl Maddox, 2004''
 '''4.Clares Route''' 14m S/HS 4a/b
@@ Line 233: / Line 234: @@
 '''20.The Sloth Returns''' 9m HS 4b
-Short steep wall to overhang / rockover, fun little climb and well protected crux. <br>''Carl Maddox, Patrick Gethings 2010.''
+''Carl Maddox, Patrick Gethings 2010.''
 '''21.Laurel and Hardy''' 8m Severe 4a<br>''Shane Treacy, Peter Cody 2009.''
@@ Line 243: / Line 246: @@
 '''24.Walk the Line''' 18m VS 5a
-Short, steep wall from mid height ledge, leads over grass ledge to upper walls. <br>''Carl Maddox 2009.''
+''Carl Maddox 2009.''
 '''25.San Quentin''' 18m E2 6a

@@ Line 191: / Line 191: @@
 '''3. Wonderly Wagon''' 14m V Diff/ Severe 4a<br>''Carl Maddox, 2004''
-'''4.Clares Route''' 14m S/HS 4a/b<br>''Clare Wheatley, 2004''
+'''4.Clares Route''' 14m S/HS 4a/b
-'''5.The Fly''' 16m S 4a<br>''Carl Maddox, 2010.''
+A really good climb up the slab and hanging corner, exit upper overhang trending left<br>''Clare Wheatley, 2004''
 [[Image:KillaryH6.jpg|800px]]
@@ Line 256: / Line 260: @@
 Steep arete, with small wires protection, easier climbing after 1/2 way.
 '''30.Burn Out''' 20m VS 5a

@@ Line 44: / Line 44: @@
 The entertaining chimney formed by the detached block
-'''2. Thin Lizzy''' 8m VS4b<br>''Carl Maddox Solo, April 1998''<br>Lay back the arete on the right side of the massive detached block, until a good hold on the left wall can be reached. No Protection.
+'''2. Thin Lizzy''' 8m VS 4c<br>''Carl Maddox Solo, April 1998''<br>Lay back the arete on the right side of the massive detached block, until a good hold on the left wall can be reached. No Protection.
 '''2a. Happy Days *''' 9m VS 5a<br>''Hugh Hunter, Richie Byrne, Spring 2010''<br>Start right of Thin Lizzy, at triangular niche capped by overhang. Layback to overhang, and pull through strenuously to easier finish. A nice little climb, hard for the grade<br>
@@ Line 187: / Line 187: @@
 <br>''Carl Maddox, Sinead Mulhearn June 1999.''<br>Left hand crack/ direct start (4c)
-'''2.Stredel''' 18m HVS 5a<br>Led on pre placed protection and top rope practice, not yet onsighted (Bold!)
+'''2.Stredel''' 18m HVS 5a<br>Led on pre placed protection and top rope practice, not yet onsighted (Bold upper walls and overhang crux!)
-'''3. Wonderly Wagon''' 14m V Diff<br>''Carl Maddox, 2004''
+'''3. Wonderly Wagon''' 14m V Diff/ Severe 4a<br>''Carl Maddox, 2004''
 '''4.Clares Route''' 14m S/HS 4a/b<br>''Clare Wheatley, 2004''

@@ Line 71: / Line 71: @@
 A hard and steep line, offering great climbing. Start just right of the slabs, climb directly up the steep, thin arete to the overhanging crack. Hard moves through the lip of the overhang (crux) led to the steep upper wall where tired arms meet the top
-'''R6. Killary Overhang''' 16m 5c <br>
+'''R6. Killary Overhang***''' 16m E3 6a <br>''Kevin Kilroy, Claire Hardy 4/5/2023 (lead onsight)<br>''
-The obvious overhanging crack line, to the right of the main slabs. Climb the clean corner on the right, make a powerful move to gain base of hanging crack line. Ape along in a gravity defying manner and pull over/ fall off the lip <br>
+The obvious overhanging crack line, to the right of the main slabs. Climb the clean corner on the right, make a powerful move to gain base of hanging crack line. Ape along in a gravity defying manner and pull over/ fall off the lip
-''An in-situ wire in the left trending hanging crack just right of Killary overhang marks the line of an over ambitious on-sight attempt on this impressive looking line, from Barry Smith productions Ltd.''
+'''6a. Leenane Crack ***''' E4 6a 20m''<br>Kevin Kilroy, Claire Hardy 3/5/2023<br>''The leftward leaning crack, right of Killary Overhang offers excellent steep well protected climbing. The large block on the left at the top is detached and should be treated with care but isn't needed for gear or holds. Flash/Onsight first ascent after abseil inspection to remove a very loose block which produced a large foothold down and left of the crack. This may well become loose after a winter or two and should not affect the grade.
 ''Right of the overhangs is a large chimney feature, sadly loosing its trouser snagging brambly character due to a massive increase in popularity from the Mayo climbing community (both of them!)''

@@ Line 133: / Line 133: @@
 Start 1-2 meter right of Pick Pocket, move easily to base of steep finger crack, make powerful moves up crack line and finish either directly from top recess or step left onto finish of pick pocket<br>'''Indirect start HVS 5a''', start right of fingerlicker, up thin cracks to delicate traverse line leading to finger crack of original route
-'''R16. Wonder Wall''' 12m 5b<br>
+'''R16. Wonder Wall''' 12m E2 5b<br>
--3meters right of fingerlicker, a hard direct start leads to faint cracks leading to overhang, a big reach through to good holds to finish<br>
+''Alex Russell 2022''<br>
-Top rope only
+-3meters right of fingerlicker, a hard direct start leads to faint cracks leading to overhang, a big reach through to good holds to finish
 '''R17. Teenage Wasteland''' 12m VS 4c<br>

@@ Line 183: / Line 183: @@
 <br>''Ciaran Lennon 18-06-13''<br>3m right of silent forty. bouldery start on overhang to a crack line. keep left to avoid hollow sounding blocks near the top.
-''Two good and obvious lines between Silent Forty and Honey suckle have been explored, in need of a final clean.
+''Two good and obvious lines between Silent Forty and Honey suckle have been explored, in need of a final clean. ''
-First line direct through overhangs to blocks thin crack finish is around 5c with a hard start. Rain stopped play so ones to return to.''
+First line direct through overhangs to blocks thin crack finish is around 5c with a hard start. Rain stopped play so ones to return to.
 '''a.1. Mr Keith''' 15m HS 4b
@@ Line 275: / Line 275: @@
 '''Deprivation''' 30ft M.S.<br>
 On the first buttress to the R with a stone wall abutting it.<br>
-Follow a flake, then the R arete.<br>
+Follow a flake, then the R arete.
-Fenner, Kelcey.<br>
 '''Y Crack''' 25 ft. V. Diff.<br>
 R past some vegetated is a good buttress with a Y-shaped crack on L wall.<br>
 Follow crack throughout.<br>
-Kelcey (solo)<br>
 '''Mania''' 20 ft. S.<br>
-R-ward slanting flake on outside face of 'Y-Crack'.<br>
+''Fenner, Kelcey.''<br>
-Fenner, Kelcey.<br>
+R-ward slanting flake on outside face of 'Y-Crack'.
 '''Nutty Slab''' 20ft. Diff<br>
-Next to the R is an unclimbed buttress.<br>
+''Kelcey (solo)''<br>
-The next buttress has an easy slab on the L side.<br>
+Next to the R is an unclimbed buttress.
-Kelcey (solo)<br>
 '''Diff Chimney''' 25 ft. S.<br>
 R is a pinnacle, detached from buttress, giving a chimney on the L and an overhang on the R.<br>
-Climb overhang and finish easily.<br>
+Climb overhang and finish easily.
-Kelcey, Fenner.<br>
 '''The Banana Hang''' 20ft. VS (5a+)<br>
 On R-hand side wall of buttress.<br>
-Climbs a desperately overhanging flake close to the arete.<br>
+Climbs a desperately overhanging flake close to the arete.
-'''On the Second Tier.'''<br>
+''On the Second Tier.''
 '''Happy Landings''' 20ft. VS (5a)<br>
-On this tier, on the R-hand side, there is a buttress split on the R by a broadgrass ramp/terrace. To the L of this ramp, where it meets the ground, there is a short steep wall, split by spaced horizontal cracks.<br>
+''Kelcey (solo)''<br>
-Climb the wall, then finish easily.<br>
+On this tier, on the R-hand side, there is a buttress split on the R by a broadgrass ramp/terrace. To the L of this ramp, where it meets the ground, there is a short steep wall, split by spaced horizontal cracks. Climb the wall, then finish easily.
-Kelcey (solo)<br>
 '''Danny Dammit''' 60 ft. S.<br>
 yds. to the L of the above climb there is a wall, with a mass of slabs around the arete on the L.<br>
-Climb 5 ft. to the R of arete, passing a grassy corner on its R-hand side, up a faint groove, past some blocks onto slabs.<br>
+Climb 5 ft. to the R of arete, passing a grassy corner on its R-hand side, up a faint groove, past some blocks onto slabs.
-Fenner, Kelcey.<br>
 '''Wild Wobble''' 30ft. V. Diff<br>
-Slab around arete from previous route.<br>
+''Kelcey, Fenner''<br>
-Kelcey, Fenner<br>
+Slab around arete from previous route.
 '''Pollux''' 30ft M.S.<br>
 '''Castor''' 30ft. M.S.<br>
-These two climbs lie on two clean slabs separated by grassy corner 30 yds. to the L of previous route, past some vegetated slabs.<br>
+''Kelcey, Fenner''<br>
-Kelcey, Fenner<br>
+These two climbs lie on two clean slabs separated by grassy corner 30 yds. to the L of previous route, past some vegetated slabs.<br><br>
-To the L are some more vegetated slabs, but then there are 60 yds. of 80 ft high clean slabs yielding three routes.<br>
+''To the L are some more vegetated slabs, but then there are 60 yds. of 80 ft high clean slabs yielding three routes.''
 '''Stony Staircase''' 80ft. Diff<br>
 Climb R-hand side of slabs from lowest rocks, taking final overhang direct.<br>
-Kelcey, Fenner<br>
 '''Tobin's Eliminate''' 80ft. HS<br>
 L of start of 'Stony Staircase' is a short ramp running R-wards to arete.<br>
 Climb a a bulging slab about 5 yds. L of bottom of ramp. Easier variations to L or R (4c by line climbed). From grassy footledge above slab , head up diagonally L to a downward-sloping blocky overhang. Climb overhang by square-cut scoop between blocks. Finish direct.<br>
-Fenner, Kelcey.<br>
 '''Pangs''' 50ft. HS<br>
 Start: 30 yds. L of 'Tobin's Eliminate'. Above is an obvious thin slanting groove, heading R-wards. Climb straight up to, and over, bulge L of groove. Finish up slabs.<br>