Iorras - Gleann Lára - Revision history

Shayoh: /* An Éadan Lárach */ changed grade of black corner.

2022-01-22T17:55:38Z

An Éadan Lárach: changed grade of black corner.

Shayoh at 12:21, 19 January 2022

2022-01-19T12:21:12Z

Shayoh at 21:08, 18 January 2022

2022-01-18T21:08:26Z

Shayoh: /* An Uaich Bhuí - Aill Thuaidh */

2022-01-17T23:45:50Z

An Uaich Bhuí - Aill Thuaidh

Shayoh: /* An Uaich Bhuí - Aill Thuaidh */

2022-01-17T23:36:15Z

An Uaich Bhuí - Aill Thuaidh

Shayoh: /* An Éadan ar Clé */

2022-01-17T23:27:30Z

An Éadan ar Clé

Shayoh at 19:23, 15 January 2022

2022-01-15T19:23:56Z

Shayoh at 19:22, 15 January 2022

2022-01-15T19:22:35Z

Shayoh at 19:21, 15 January 2022

2022-01-15T19:21:51Z

Shayoh at 18:04, 15 January 2022

2022-01-15T18:04:42Z

@@ Line 82: / Line 82: @@
 '''8  Santiago''' HS  4b 30m  ** <br>Starts in the centre of the wall, 3m left of the Black Corner.  Climb the thin cracks to gain the equivalent level of the wide ledge above.  Avoiding the wide ledge, move up the short broken wall to gain the prominent triangular alcove.  Climb out of the alcove, taking the crack above to finish. <br>''G. Galligan, D. Walsh. 28/08/2021''
-'''9  Black Corner''' VS 4c <br>Climb the corner, exiting right at top, then move up and left to good belay ledges and continue to top. <br>''Paddy O’Brien, Christina Tan 17.07 2021''
+'''9  Black Corner''' HS 4c <br>Climb the corner, exiting right at top, then move up and left to good belay ledges and continue to top. <br>''Paddy O’Brien, Christina Tan 17.07 2021''
 '''10''' No details

@@ Line 66: / Line 66: @@
 '''2 Ciervo Volante''' VDiff 25m <br>Takes a direct line 3m from the right-hand end of the wall. Climb up to the wide left-trending ledge.  Continue on good features and holds to the top. Good protection. <br>''G. Galligan, Adele Fox 17/07/2021''
-'''3 Shipwreck Scramble'''     V. Diff. 20m <br>Start at the cracked left facing corner. Climb the corner with difficulty to gain the slab above. Follow this on good holds to the top. <br>''B. Walker, W. Blanchfield 17/07/2021''
+'''3''' '''Corner Craic.''' HS 4b 20m <br>Start at the cracked left facing corner. Climb the corner with difficulty to gain the slab above. Follow this on good holds to the top. <br>''B. Walker, W. Blanchfield 17/07/2021''
-'''4 Corner Craic.''' HS 4b 20m <br>Scramble with caution from the foot of the descent ramp around to the south facing part of the cliff and almost immediately lies a prominent  left facing corner, above which a crack steeply accesses another even more prominent left facing corner above.  Crux is the crack between the two corners.  Nice sitting belay to start.  Finishes at Base Camp. <br>''C. Peppard, D. Walsh 17/07/2021''
+'''4''' '''Shipwreck Scramble'''     V. Diff. 20m<br>Scramble with caution from the foot of the descent ramp around to the south facing part of the cliff and almost immediately lies a prominent  left facing corner, above which a crack steeply accesses another even more prominent left facing corner above.  Crux is the crack between the two corners.  Nice sitting belay to start.  Finishes at Base Camp. <br>''C. Peppard, D. Walsh 17/07/2021''
 ====='''An Éadan Lárach'''=====

@@ Line 6: / Line 6: @@
 <br />
-There are climbs on the east coast at An Siolar (Danish Cellar) and on the west coast at the north and south side if An Uaich Bhuí.
+'''There are climbs on the east coast at An Siolar (Danish Cellar) and on the west coast at the north side of An Uaich Bhuí.'''
 ===='''An Siolar - Danish Cellar'''====
@@ Line 48: / Line 48: @@
 '''This is  a west-facing sea cliff (An Éadan Thiar) about 35m high divided by two enormous vertical fault-lines or chasms into three distinct buttresses as shown above and a south-facing sea cliff (The Petrified Wave).'''
-'''Access to the climbing is by a descending ramp to the left for the Éadan ar Clé and Éadan Lárach, by abseil for the Éadan ar Dheis.  The ramp is utterly impassable as between the Éadan Lárach and the Éadan ar Dheis.  Abseiling is also relevant where some may prefer to leave a fixed abseil in position to facilitate (for instance) multiple parties accessing multiple climbs on the Éadan Lárach, in preference to the walk around.'''
+'''Access to the climbing is by a descending ramp to the left for the Éadan ar Clé and Éadan Lárach.  The ramp is utterly impassable as between the Éadan Lárach and the Éadan ar Dheis.  Abseiling is relevant where some may prefer to leave a fixed abseil in position to facilitate (for instance) multiple parties accessing multiple climbs on the Éadan Lárach, in preference to the walk around.'''
 '''Base Camp is a matter of choice, but the ramp on  Éadan ar Clé, just where the other Buttresses come into view, has become popular.'''
@@ Line 96: / Line 96: @@
 '''15  Imeall an Anscoilt Uachtar''' V. Diff. <br>Climb the right hand edge of the face.  Technically easy but psychologically challenging.  Hardest move is to make a start – ascend the crack corner which is narrow at first, and as it widens, the cautious may well keep somewhat left while thrill seekers might stick right.  Belay on huge airy block. <br>''David Walsh, Gerry Galligan 30.08.2021''
 '''16'''  '''Claudine''' MS  22m ** <br>From near the end of the ramp abseil down a crack to a ledge above the sea. Climb back up the crack.  Excellent protection throughout. <br>''G. Galligan, B. Walker.  30/08/2021''
 ====='''The Petrified Wave'''=====

@@ Line 42: / Line 42: @@
 ===='''An Uaich Bhuí - Aill Thuaidh'''====
-'''Access is 20 minutes or so. Follow the Erris Head Loop anti-clockwise across fields and open land from the roadhead on the shore of An Siolar (Danish Cellar) until it is time to branch off left as shown in the diagram at the top of the page.'''
+'''Access is 20 minutes or so. Follow the Erris Head Loop clockwise across fields and open land from the roadhead on the shore of An Siolar (Danish Cellar) until it is time to branch off left as shown in the diagram at the top of the page.'''
 [[File:Aill thuaidh layout.jpg|center|thumb|626x626px]]

@@ Line 42: / Line 42: @@
 ===='''An Uaich Bhuí - Aill Thuaidh'''====
-'''Access is 20 minutes or so westwards on foot across fields and open land from the roadhead on the shore of An Siolar (Danish Cellar).'''
+'''Access is 20 minutes or so. Follow the Erris Head Loop anti-clockwise across fields and open land from the roadhead on the shore of An Siolar (Danish Cellar) until it is time to branch off left as shown in the diagram at the top of the page.'''
 [[File:Aill thuaidh layout.jpg|center|thumb|626x626px]]

@@ Line 9: / Line 9: @@
 ===='''An Siolar - Danish Cellar'''====
-'''The routes described below are located on big slabs just east of the car park at Danish Cellar (OS .5 sheet 6, F 708 395) near Erris Head in the Belmullet Peninsula, North Mayo. There is great potential for quality new routes in the area.'''
+'''The routes described below are located on big slabs just east of the car park at Danish Cellar (OS .5 sheet 6, F 708 395).  There is great potential for quality new routes in the area.'''
 '''There are three principal areas of slabs (see Figure 3. New Climbs '82), all west-facing and located on ill-defined headlands. The top of the first area of slabs is visible from the car park at Danish Cellar and is characterised by the presence of green lichen and a vertical to overhanging headwall. They are reached by crossing a small steep-sided valley and stream adjacent to the car park. The second area of slabs is only a short distance further east and is characterised by large areas of featureless black rock. The third area of slabs is further east again (about 15 minutes walk from the car park). On the right there is a large black slab characterised by white speckles. Left of this the slabs are more complex with cracks and overhangs, but a long leftward-trending crack is characteristic.'''

@@ Line 2: / Line 2: @@
 '''Getting there'''<br>
-'''Starting from American Street in Béal an Mhuirhead continue north straight on L1201 for 3km and then turn left onto a minor road just after a sharp right bend. After another 1.6km turn right at a T-junction. At the next T-junction at the top of a small hill after 1200m make a V turn left. Follow this road to where it ends at parking at Gleann Lara on the shore of An Siolar (Danish Cellar).'''
+'''Starting from American Street in Béal an Mhuirhead continue north straight on L1201 for 3km and then turn left onto a minor road just after a sharp right bend. After another 1.6km turn right at a T-junction. At the next T-junction at the top of a small hill after 1200m make a V turn left. Follow this road to where it ends at parking at Gleann Lára on the shore of An Siolar (Danish Cellar).'''
 [[File:Gleann_Lara_access.png|alt=|center|frameless|800x800px]]
 <br />

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-This page is a work in progress
+'''Leithinis an Mhuirthead (the Mullet Peninsula)—also known as an Mhuirthead ( the Mullet) —is a peninsula in the barony of Iorras (Erris) in the Gaelteacht in County Mayo.  It consists of a large promontory connected to the mainland at Béal an Mhuirthead (Belmullet) by a narrow isthmus. At its northern end is the townland of Gleann Lára and all the climbs listed here are in that townland as is Ceann Iorras (Erris Head).'''
-Leithinis an Mhuirthead (the Mullet Peninsula)—also known as an Mhuirthead ( the Mullet) —is a peninsula in the barony of Iorras (Erris) in the Gaelteacht in County Mayo.  It consists of a large promontory connected to the mainland at Béal an Mhuirthead (Belmullet) by a narrow isthmus. At its northern end is the townland of Gleann Lára and all the climbs listed here are in that townland as is Ceann Iorras (Erris Head).
+'''Starting from American Street in Béal an Mhuirhead continue north straight on L1201 for 3km and then turn left onto a minor road just after a sharp right bend. After another 1.6km turn right at a T-junction. At the next T-junction at the top of a small hill after 1200m make a V turn left. Follow this road to where it ends at parking at Gleann Lara on the shore of An Siolar (Danish Cellar).'''
 [[File:Gleann_Lara_access.png|alt=|center|frameless|800x800px]]
 <br />
@@ Line 41: / Line 39: @@
 ===='''An Uaich Bhuí - Aill Thuaidh'''====
-Access is 20 minutes or so westwards on foot across fields and open land from the roadhead on the shore of An Siolar (Danish Cellar).
+'''Access is 20 minutes or so westwards on foot across fields and open land from the roadhead on the shore of An Siolar (Danish Cellar).'''
 [[File:Aill thuaidh layout.jpg|center|thumb|626x626px]]
-This is  a west-facing sea cliff (An Éadan Thiar) about 35m high divided by two enormous vertical fault-lines or chasms into three distinct buttresses as shown above and a south-facing sea cliff (The Petrified Wave).
+'''This is  a west-facing sea cliff (An Éadan Thiar) about 35m high divided by two enormous vertical fault-lines or chasms into three distinct buttresses as shown above and a south-facing sea cliff (The Petrified Wave).'''
-Access to the climbing is by a descending ramp to the left for the Éadan ar Clé and Éadan Lárach, by abseil for the Éadan ar Dheis.  The ramp is utterly impassable as between the Éadan Lárach and the Éadan ar Dheis.  Abseiling is also relevant where some may prefer to leave a fixed abseil in position to facilitate (for instance) multiple parties accessing multiple climbs on the Éadan Lárach, in preference to the walk around.
+'''Access to the climbing is by a descending ramp to the left for the Éadan ar Clé and Éadan Lárach, by abseil for the Éadan ar Dheis.  The ramp is utterly impassable as between the Éadan Lárach and the Éadan ar Dheis.  Abseiling is also relevant where some may prefer to leave a fixed abseil in position to facilitate (for instance) multiple parties accessing multiple climbs on the Éadan Lárach, in preference to the walk around.'''
-Base Camp is a matter of choice, but the ramp on  Éadan ar Clé, just where the other Buttresses come into view, has become popular.
+'''Base Camp is a matter of choice, but the ramp on  Éadan ar Clé, just where the other Buttresses come into view, has become popular.'''
-All directions are given as though looking at the rock from seaward.
+'''All directions are given as though looking at the rock from seaward.'''
-The rock is foliated gneiss.
+'''The rock is foliated gneiss.'''
 ====='''An Éadan ar Clé'''=====
@@ Line 77: / Line 75: @@
 '''6  Céim ar Chlé''' HS (4b, 4a)<br>Climb the crack in the right corner of the arched recess to its roof, and escape left onto the slab above. Follow the fault line directly to the terrace. 2.Climb the obvious thin crack to a short chimney and climb this to the top. <br>''B. Walker, W. Blanchfield (Alt. Leads) 28.08.2021''
-'''7  San Nicolás''' VS (4c, 4b)  30m  *** <br>1. Start just right of the Recessed Arch.  Massive thread belay to begin.  Climb the outside arête, which trends leftwards, making delicate moves to gain the wide ledge above. <br>2.  At a shallow niche, climb the crack which links to another foot-niche.  Then continue up the wall directly to the top, utilising the cracks en route. <br>''G. Galligan, D. Walsh. 29/08/2021''
+'''7  San Nicolás''' VS (4c, 4b)  30m  *** <br>1. Start just right of the recessed arch.  Massive thread belay to begin.  Climb the outside arête, which trends leftwards, making delicate moves to gain the wide ledge above. <br>2.  At a shallow niche, climb the crack which links to another foot-niche.  Then continue up the wall directly to the top, utilising the cracks en route. <br>''G. Galligan, D. Walsh. 29/08/2021''
 '''8  Santiago''' HS  4b 30m  ** <br>Starts in the centre of the wall, 3m left of the Black Corner.  Climb the thin cracks to gain the equivalent level of the wide ledge above.  Avoiding the wide ledge, move up the short broken wall to gain the prominent triangular alcove.  Climb out of the alcove, taking the crack above to finish. <br>''G. Galligan, D. Walsh. 28/08/2021''
@@ Line 93: / Line 91: @@
 '''14''' No details
-'''15  Imeall an Anscoilt Uachtar''' V. Diff. <br>Climb the right hand edge of the upper Middle Buttress.  Technically easy but psychologically challenging.  Hardest move is to make a start – ascend the crack corner which is narrow at first, and which as it widens, the cautious may well keep somewhat left while thrill seekers might stick right.  Belay on huge airy block. <br>
+'''15  Imeall an Anscoilt Uachtar''' V. Diff. <br>Climb the right hand edge of the face.  Technically easy but psychologically challenging.  Hardest move is to make a start – ascend the crack corner which is narrow at first, and as it widens, the cautious may well keep somewhat left while thrill seekers might stick right.  Belay on huge airy block. <br>''David Walsh, Gerry Galligan 30.08.2021''
 '''16'''  '''Claudine''' MS  22m ** <br>From near the end of the ramp abseil down a crack to a ledge above the sea. Climb back up the crack.  Excellent protection throughout. <br>''G. Galligan, B. Walker.  30/08/2021''