Howth Head - Revision history

Barry watts: /* Martello Wall */

2023-10-01T16:07:38Z

Martello Wall

Murphios at 19:51, 7 December 2021

2021-12-07T19:51:38Z

Murphios: Added photos/topos, corrected Gps location

2021-12-07T19:46:55Z

Added photos/topos, corrected Gps location

Daveh: /* Rusty Wall */

2021-06-23T10:45:58Z

Rusty Wall

Daveh: /* Rusty Wall */

2021-06-23T10:44:54Z

Rusty Wall

Daveh: /* Rusty Wall */

2021-06-23T10:42:13Z

Rusty Wall

Daveh: /* Rusty Wall */ New Routes

2021-06-23T10:32:04Z

Rusty Wall: New Routes

ColmPe at 06:54, 3 June 2021

2021-06-03T06:54:58Z

Damien O'Sullivan: Edited link

2021-05-24T10:00:43Z

Edited link

ColmPe at 19:21, 22 May 2021

2021-05-22T19:21:55Z

@@ Line 200: / Line 200: @@
 ===Warning Sign Slab===
-Warning Sign Slab location: https://goo.gl/maps/DT2kxXnAaGyoEU4m9
+Warning Sign Slab location: https://goo.gl/maps/DT2kxXnAaGyoEU4m9[[File:WarningSignSlab.jpg|center|357x357px|Warning Sign Slab|alt=]]
 '''Lucky for Some''' (V Diff 18m)<br />''Jim Cooper, January 2002<br />''With a difficult start, climb the left side of the slab using the corner. Good climbing.
-'''Lucky Strike''' (HS 17m)<br />''Jim Cooper, February 2002<br />''Start at the right edge of the slab. Step up and left and climb the easiest way up the slab more or less directly. Apart from one move half way up this is easier than it looks. An excellent climb..<br />
+'''Lucky Strike''' (HS 17m)<br />''Jim Cooper, February 2002<br />''Start at the right edge of the slab. Step up and left and climb the easiest way up the slab more or less directly. Apart from one move half way up this is easier than it looks. An excellent climb..
 ===Red Rock===
@@ Line 222: / Line 219: @@
 ''The next 15m left is an area rock with ill-defined features but with a gully/corner at the left end. The next climbs find ways up this area.''
-'''Grilled''' (Severe 10m)<br />''Jim Cooper, January 2002.<br />''About 4-5m left of the previous route, climb awkward left trending grooves which are steeper than they appear..<br /><br />'''Roasted''' (VDiff 12m)<br />''Jim Cooper, December 2001<br />''2m right of the left facing corner, follow discontinuous ramps up left. Then finish straight up..<br /><br />'''Toasted''' (Severe 10m)<br />''Jim Cooper, January 2002<br />''Climb easy angled rock and vegetation to the base of the corner. Start up the corner then step left onto the wall. Either continue left to the edge or, better harder and steeper, climb the wall directly. Poor first half, good second half..<br />
+'''Grilled''' (Severe 10m)<br />''Jim Cooper, January 2002.<br />''About 4-5m left of the previous route, climb awkward left trending grooves which are steeper than they appear..<br /><br />'''Roasted''' (VDiff 12m)<br />''Jim Cooper, December 2001<br />''2m right of the left facing corner, follow discontinuous ramps up left. Then finish straight up..<br /><br />'''Toasted''' (Severe 10m)<br />''Jim Cooper, January 2002<br />''Climb easy angled rock and vegetation to the base of the corner. Start up the corner then step left onto the wall. Either continue left to the edge or, better harder and steeper, climb the wall directly. Poor first half, good second half.
 Immediately left is a short steep (unclimbed?) yellow wall. 25m left is a, not quite vertical, wall.
@@ Line 228: / Line 225: @@
 ====Eurozone====
 [[File:Eurozone.jpg|450x450px|Eurozone|alt=|center]]
 '''Punt''' (V Diff 12m)<br />''Jim Cooper, December 2001<br />''At the right hand end, climb from the lowest point to the top. A pleasant climb..<br /><br />'''Penny''' (Hard Severe 4a/b 8m)<br />4-5 metres left of the previous climb, follow the groove into a recess. Climb steeply left and to the top<br />via diagonal cracks. A good climb.
-'''Euro''' (Severe 4a 8m)<br />''Jim Cooper, January 2002<br />''1m left of the previous climb, follow the obvious left trending finger crack to the top. Another good climb.<br /><br />'''Cent''' (MVS 4b 6m)<br />''Jim Cooper?, January 2002<br />''3m left climb steeply to finish next to the previous climb. Short but worthwhile.<br />
+'''Euro''' (Severe 4a 8m)<br />''Jim Cooper, January 2002<br />''1m left of the previous climb, follow the obvious left trending finger crack to the top. Another good climb.<br /><br />'''Cent''' (MVS 4b 6m)<br />''Jim Cooper?, January 2002<br />''3m left climb steeply to finish next to the previous climb. Short but worthwhile.
 ===Martello Wall===
@@ Line 239: / Line 235: @@
 +m further on, before the Walk descends to the shore,on the left is an area of steep but broken rocks, about 7-8m high, above the path. The central feature is a wall – a difficult looking problem.
 [[File:MartelloWall2.jpg|center|600px|MartelloWall2.jpg]]
-'''Barnacle Boy''' (S 3c)<br />''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak - Oct 2020<br />''Found on the left side of Martello Wall. Follow the hand side crack to the ledge, follow the steep slab to the top. Solid rock and good protect, top protected by small offset nuts.<br />
+'''Barnacle Boy''' (S 3c)<br />''Niall S. Murphy, Rafal Barszczak - Oct 2020<br />''Found on the left side of Martello Wall. Follow the hand side crack to the ledge, follow the steep slab to the top. Solid rock and good protect, top protected by small offset nuts.
-'''Corner Boy''' ( VS 4A 15m)<br />''Kevin Coakley, Ian Christi<br />''Climb the obvious crack on right side of the crag, good protection allows bridging to overhang, from small ledge climb through gap to large ledge, easy finish up slab on left to nut belays.<br />
+'''Corner Boy''' (VS 4a 15m)<br />''Kevin Coakley, Ian Christie, <br />''Climb the obvious crack on right side of the crag, good protection allows bridging to overhang, from small ledge climb through gap to large ledge, easy finish up slab on left to nut belays.
 ===Sheep Hole Cliffs===
@@ Line 254: / Line 248: @@
 The first cliff is a small promontory with a steep looking wall on its west side. The left edge of this wall consists of an overhanging prow 8+ metres high which would provide a very hard climb. The main feature of this wall is a right to left diagonal ramp up the full height.
-'''Rampant''' (Diff. 12m)<br />''Jim Cooper, February 2002<br />''Easily climb the right to left diagonal ramp. A little gem.<br />
+'''Rampant''' (Diff. 12m)<br />''Jim Cooper, February 2002<br />''Easily climb the right to left diagonal ramp. A little gem.
-'''Man on the Rampage''' (Sev. 12m)<br />''Jim Cooper, February 2002<br />''Starting at the same place as Rampant, climb straight up to achieve a ledge by steep rock. The continuation up is loose so carefully follow a foot ramp to the left to top out at a corner. If the doubtfull rock is removed this might become a very worthwhile climb.<br />
+'''Man on the Rampage''' (Sev. 12m)<br />''Jim Cooper, February 2002<br />''Starting at the same place as Rampant, climb straight up to achieve a ledge by steep rock. The continuation up is loose so carefully follow a foot ramp to the left to top out at a corner. If the doubtfull rock is removed this might become a very worthwhile climb.
-'''Ramp Up''' (V Diff. 12 m)<br />''Jim Cooper, February 2002<br />''Climb up the front of this promontory.<br />
+'''Ramp Up''' (V Diff. 12 m)<br />''Jim Cooper, February 2002<br />''Climb up the front of this promontory.
 '''30 to 50 metres right is another promontory of similar height. The seaward front of the promontory has a wide crack on the left and a corner on the right. The corner is:'''
-'''Bay Watch''' (V Diff. 11m)<br />''Jim Cooper, February 2002<br />''Climb the corner to a ledge on the right edge. The last 2 to 3 metres to the top is unsound.<br />
+'''Bay Watch''' (V Diff. 11m)<br />''Jim Cooper, February 2002<br />''Climb the corner to a ledge on the right edge. The last 2 to 3 metres to the top is unsound.
 ===Ayton’s Cave===

@@ Line 203: / Line 203: @@
 <br />
-[[File:WarningSignSlab.jpg|center|thumb|306x306px|Warning Sign Slab]]
+[[File:WarningSignSlab.jpg|center|357x357px|Warning Sign Slab|alt=]]
 '''Lucky for Some''' (V Diff 18m)<br />''Jim Cooper, January 2002<br />''With a difficult start, climb the left side of the slab using the corner. Good climbing.
@@ Line 211: / Line 211: @@
 ''Red Rock location'': https://goo.gl/maps/AvJXEEiz3wsidXnp6
-[[File:RedRock.jpg|none|thumb|607x607px]]
+[[File:RedRock.jpg|650x650px|alt=|center]]
 ''Immediately above where the Cliff Walk has steps cut into the rock is an easy angled slab of compact rock.''
@@ Line 226: / Line 226: @@
 Immediately left is a short steep (unclimbed?) yellow wall. 25m left is a, not quite vertical, wall.
-==== Eurozone ====
+====Eurozone====
-[[File:Eurozone.jpg|none|thumb|413x413px|Eurozone]]
+[[File:Eurozone.jpg|450x450px|Eurozone|alt=|center]]

@@ Line 200: / Line 200: @@
 ===Warning Sign Slab===
-Warning Sign Slab location: https://goo.gl/maps/wHcHAwhwTGnkhDq88
+Warning Sign Slab location: https://goo.gl/maps/DT2kxXnAaGyoEU4m9
 '''Lucky for Some''' (V Diff 18m)<br />''Jim Cooper, January 2002<br />''With a difficult start, climb the left side of the slab using the corner. Good climbing.
@@ Line 209: / Line 211: @@
 ''Red Rock location'': https://goo.gl/maps/AvJXEEiz3wsidXnp6
+[[File:RedRock.jpg|none|thumb|607x607px]]
 ''Immediately above where the Cliff Walk has steps cut into the rock is an easy angled slab of compact rock.''
@@ Line 223: / Line 225: @@
 Immediately left is a short steep (unclimbed?) yellow wall. 25m left is a, not quite vertical, wall.
 '''Punt''' (V Diff 12m)<br />''Jim Cooper, December 2001<br />''At the right hand end, climb from the lowest point to the top. A pleasant climb..<br /><br />'''Penny''' (Hard Severe 4a/b 8m)<br />4-5 metres left of the previous climb, follow the groove into a recess. Climb steeply left and to the top<br />via diagonal cracks. A good climb.

@@ Line 286: / Line 286: @@
 [[File:Rusty.png|frameless|799x799px]]
-'''Crumbling Castle E4 6a<br />'''''N Berkery, J Kitchen June 2021<br />''Excellent climbing with a tricky but well protected crux on an otherwise bold route.<br />Start to the left of Interdimensional Fucker and move delicately up a series of loose flakes to a scooped hold at about 6m, from here two small cams can be placed to protect the crux. Traversing left passed the protection with a dynamic committing move to an excellent side pull marks the start of a technical crux sequence culminating in a big move up to a slopey jug. A couple of moves on less steep terrain brings you to a big ledge which once mantled allows for a deserved rest and at last some protection. Finish up the back wall crack, top out isn't as straight forward as it appears.
+'''Crumbling Castle''' E4 6a'''<br />'''''N Berkery, J Kitchen June 2021<br />''Excellent climbing with a tricky but well protected crux on an otherwise bold route.<br />Start to the left of Interdimensional Fucker and move delicately up a series of loose flakes to a scooped hold at about 6m, from here two small cams can be placed to protect the crux. Traversing left passed the protection with a dynamic committing move to an excellent side pull marks the start of a technical crux sequence culminating in a big move up to a slopey jug. A couple of moves on less steep terrain brings you to a big ledge which once mantled allows for a deserved rest and at last some protection. Finish up the back wall crack, top out isn't as straight forward as it appears.
-'''Interdimensional Fucker (E5/6 6B) 12m'''<br />''B Hall, K Nelson September 2018<br />''A very steep route on dubious rock but with plenty of gear. Weird french 7b-ish climbing. Step off the block and get involved with the triangle groove. A tricky exit out of this gets you to good-ish holds and gear. Sequential and pumpy but well protected (crucial and tricky to place rock 9) climbing above gains the sloping ledge and undercuts/groove. A few moves right on sidepulls and crack (good red camalot and size 10 wire) bring you to flat holds which are followed back left past a small cam to the top. Bring your good set of arms. Headpointed on the first ascent, all gear placed on the lead.
+'''Interdimensional Fucker''' (E5/6 6B) 12m<br />''B Hall, K Nelson September 2018<br />''A very steep route on dubious rock but with plenty of gear. Weird french 7b-ish climbing. Step off the block and get involved with the triangle groove. A tricky exit out of this gets you to good-ish holds and gear. Sequential and pumpy but well protected (crucial and tricky to place rock 9) climbing above gains the sloping ledge and undercuts/groove. A few moves right on sidepulls and crack (good red camalot and size 10 wire) bring you to flat holds which are followed back left past a small cam to the top. Bring your good set of arms. Headpointed on the first ascent, all gear placed on the lead.
-'''Interstellar Hugger E3 5c<br />'''''N Berkery, J Kitchen May 2021<br />''Similar in style but with an easier, better protected first half than its left neighbour.<br />Juggy start from the block just to the right of Interdimensional Fucker. Some reachy moves to good holds lead to good protection, holds become progressively worse as you move up the left trending crack towards the sloping ledge. A very good rest can be found here with the right body position before attacking the top section (crux). Protected as for IF, route finishes straight up without moving back left. Protect the top out with small cam to avoid the panic while searching for those final holds.
+'''Interstellar Hugger''' E3 5c'''<br />'''''N Berkery, J Kitchen May 2021<br />''Similar in style but with an easier, better protected first half than its left neighbour.<br />Juggy start from the block just to the right of Interdimensional Fucker. Some reachy moves to good holds lead to good protection, holds become progressively worse as you move up the left trending crack towards the sloping ledge. A very good rest can be found here with the right body position before attacking the top section (crux). Protected as for IF, route finishes straight up without moving back left. Protect the top out with small cam to avoid the panic while searching for those final holds.
-'''Interdimensional Cable E3 6a<br />'''''J Kitchen, N Berkery June 2021'''<br />'''''Committed climbing that is well protected throughout, the easy start gives way to harder moves the further you climb. Begin on the right-hand side of the boulder and pull onto the main wall with good holds. Nice climbing with good gear leads to a good rest once you gain the ledge. Begin the 2nd half of the climb by traversing right using good side pulls and balanced feet to reach a crack where you can arrange your final gear placements before the crux. High feet allow you to gain the incut jug of the left blank wall and then onto the final juggy flakes. Beware some holds and gear placements may not be so obvious.
+'''Interdimensional Cable''' E3 6a'''<br />'''''J Kitchen, N Berkery June 2021'''<br />'''''Committed climbing that is well protected throughout, the easy start gives way to harder moves the further you climb. Begin on the right-hand side of the boulder and pull onto the main wall with good holds. Nice climbing with good gear leads to a good rest once you gain the ledge. Begin the 2nd half of the climb by traversing right using good side pulls and balanced feet to reach a crack where you can arrange your final gear placements before the crux. High feet allow you to gain the incut jug of the left blank wall and then onto the final juggy flakes. Beware some holds and gear placements may not be so obvious.
-'''Interdimensional Nutter E2 5c<br />'''''J Kitchen, N Berkery June 2021<br />''Start on the rightmost corner of the wall, use the right-hand wall to kick up the bouldery start to gain good holds. Continue up easy climbing being careful not to stray too far right onto loose rock. Halfway provides a great rest and a chance to arrange some small cams before starting the harder climbing. Stepping left work your way over an awkward bulge to gain the same final gear placements as its neighbour. A short sequence of committing moves leads to a glory hold before topping out.
+'''Interdimensional Nutter''' E2 5c'''<br />'''''J Kitchen, N Berkery June 2021<br />''Start on the rightmost corner of the wall, use the right-hand wall to kick up the bouldery start to gain good holds. Continue up easy climbing being careful not to stray too far right onto loose rock. Halfway provides a great rest and a chance to arrange some small cams before starting the harder climbing. Stepping left work your way over an awkward bulge to gain the same final gear placements as its neighbour. A short sequence of committing moves leads to a glory hold before topping out.
-<br />'''3-400m further on past Drumleck Point is:'''
+<br />'''300m-400m further on past Drumleck Point is:'''
 ===Sandy Cove (with Triffid Slab and Red Dyke Wall)===

@@ Line 282: / Line 282: @@
 ''Rusty Wall Location'': https://goo.gl/maps/TMgJZaPjEmLoeqQA7
-''Less than 100m beyond Mussel Cove, hidden below the Cliff Walk, is a steep rust coloured wall. When in sight of the wooden pole with “Telegraph Cable” marker, follow a vague path from the Cliff Walk down towards a small group of boulders which look precariously poised on a small headland. Descend to the boulders, follow left around the corner to a slight embayment with a small pinnacle at its mouth. At the back of the bay is a wall approximately 12-15m high which overhangs 2-3m. The foot of the wall is undercut and forms a small cave. There are challenging opportunities up the full height of the wall, one established route "Interdimensional Fucker" is found here .''
+''Less than 100m beyond Mussel Cove, hidden below the Cliff Walk, is a steep rust coloured wall. When in sight of the wooden pole with “Telegraph Cable” marker, follow a vague path from the Cliff Walk down towards a small group of boulders which look precariously poised on a small headland. Descend to the boulders, follow left around the corner to a slight embayment with a small pinnacle at its mouth. At the back of the bay is a wall approximately 12-15m high which overhangs 2-3m. The foot of the wall is undercut and forms a small cave. There are challenging opportunities up the full height of the wall, one of the established routes found here is "Interdimensional Fucker".''
 [[File:Rusty.png|frameless|799x799px]]

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 '''Advisory Note:'''
-Howth Castle and Demesne was acquired by Irish real estate company Tetrarch Capital on 28 May 2019. It has submitted a substantial development plan to Fingal County Council which: “proposes a new hotel, spa and leisure centre, a reconfigured golf course and new club house, a large sports campus, a new school, parkland and woodland walks / trails, a greenway connecting Howth and Sutton…” [See <nowiki>http://sipo-lobbying-04.northeurope.cloudapp.azure.com/return/61933/tetrarch-capital-limited</nowiki> ] It is understood that an approach has been made by Mountaineering Ireland to secure continued access with the new owners and the outcome is awaited. Obviously a lot is in play and so it is worth keeping an eye out for any change to permitted access, news reports re proposed changes, planning application developments etc. In a separate development, it appears that recently (April/May 21 perhaps - though exact duration is unknown) some questionable climbing bolts were installed and some have now been removed. However, as at 22 May 21 at least one remains. Please note that Mountaineering Ireland has a bolting policy guidance briefing covering the issue of bolting  [See https://www.mountaineering.ie/_files/201632155143_b096c5e9.pdf ]
+Howth Castle and Demesne was acquired by Irish real estate company Tetrarch Capital on 28 May 2019. It has submitted a substantial development plan to Fingal County Council which: “proposes a new hotel, spa and leisure centre, a reconfigured golf course and new club house, a large sports campus, a new school, parkland and woodland walks / trails, a greenway connecting Howth and Sutton…” [See <nowiki>http://sipo-lobbying-04.northeurope.cloudapp.azure.com/return/61933/tetrarch-capital-limited</nowiki> ] It is understood that an approach has been made by Mountaineering Ireland to secure continued access with the new owners and the outcome is awaited. Obviously a lot is in play and so it is worth keeping an eye out for any change to permitted access, news reports re proposed changes, planning application developments etc. In a separate development, it appears that in the spring of 2021 (though given C-19 restrictions exact duration is unknown) some questionable climbing bolts were installed. They have now been removed. Please note that Mountaineering Ireland has a bolting policy guidance briefing covering the issue of bolting  [See https://www.mountaineering.ie/_files/201632155143_b096c5e9.pdf ]
 Various northside climbers have hoped to find a rival to the southside venues but with limited success until the development of the Deer Park Crag in 2015.
@@ Line 42: / Line 42: @@
 '''Advisory Note:'''
-Howth Castle and Demesne was acquired by Irish real estate company Tetrarch Capital on 28 May 2019. It has submitted a substantial development plan to Fingal County Council which: “proposes a new hotel, spa and leisure centre, a reconfigured golf course and new club house, a large sports campus, a new school, parkland and woodland walks / trails, a greenway connecting Howth and Sutton…” [See <nowiki>http://sipo-lobbying-04.northeurope.cloudapp.azure.com/return/61933/tetrarch-capital-limited</nowiki> ] It is understood that an approach has been made by Mountaineering Ireland to secure continued access with the new owners and the outcome is awaited. Obviously a lot is in play and so it is worth keeping an eye out for any change to permitted access, news reports re proposed changes, planning application developments etc. In a separate development, it appears that recently (April/May 21 perhaps - though exact duration is unknown) some questionable climbing bolts were installed and some have now been removed. However, as at 22 May 21 at least one remains. Please note that Mountaineering Ireland has a bolting policy guidance briefing covering the issue of bolting  [See <nowiki>https://www.mountaineering.ie/_files/201632155143_b096c5e9.pdf</nowiki> ]
+Howth Castle and Demesne was acquired by Irish real estate company Tetrarch Capital on 28 May 2019. It has submitted a substantial development plan to Fingal County Council which: “proposes a new hotel, spa and leisure centre, a reconfigured golf course and new club house, a large sports campus, a new school, parkland and woodland walks / trails, a greenway connecting Howth and Sutton…” [See <nowiki>http://sipo-lobbying-04.northeurope.cloudapp.azure.com/return/61933/tetrarch-capital-limited</nowiki> ] It is understood that an approach has been made by Mountaineering Ireland to secure continued access with the new owners and the outcome is awaited. Obviously a lot is in play and so it is worth keeping an eye out for any change to permitted access, news reports re proposed changes, planning application developments etc. In a separate development, it appears that in the spring of 2021 (though given C-19 restrictions exact duration is unknown) some questionable climbing bolts were installed. They have now been removed. Please note that Mountaineering Ireland has a bolting policy guidance briefing covering the issue of bolting  [See <nowiki>https://www.mountaineering.ie/_files/201632155143_b096c5e9.pdf</nowiki> ]
 '''Access''' Closest access is from Howth Castle/Deer Park golf course car park (5 mins) – crag is clearly visible from the car park. This is a public golf course and is on the Howth tourist trail, containing the Howth Transport Museum, Howth Castle and the much visited rhododendron forest and Muck Rock crag up behind the hotel on the right side.