Helvick Head - Revision history

HansGruber at 23:48, 1 May 2024

2024-05-01T23:48:39Z

HansGruber at 23:41, 1 May 2024

2024-05-01T23:41:44Z

HansGruber at 23:39, 1 May 2024

2024-05-01T23:39:50Z

HansGruber at 23:03, 1 May 2024

2024-05-01T23:03:13Z

HansGruber: /* Helvick Head northeast */

2024-05-01T22:27:44Z

Helvick Head northeast

HansGruber: Fixed approach topo display

2024-05-01T21:45:57Z

Fixed approach topo display

Shayoh: /* Helvick Head northeast */

2023-09-28T18:25:08Z

Helvick Head northeast

Shayoh at 16:57, 12 June 2023

2023-06-12T16:57:04Z

Shayoh at 16:51, 12 June 2023

2023-06-12T16:51:38Z

Shayoh at 11:10, 29 April 2023

2023-04-29T11:10:40Z

@@ Line 78: / Line 78: @@
 ==='''Central'''===
-[[File:HHTopo12.jpg|Note: Incorrect label for Tús Maith|center|alt=|frame]]
+'''The next climbs are reached by abseiling or scrambling down from a point halfway between An Carraig Bán and An Droichead.''' (see topo).[[File:HHTopo12a.jpg||400px|frameless|center]]12 '''Tús  Maith'''.  Diff G. Moss, G.Galligan, 26/9/20<br>
 '''GG2'''.  VS4b. G. Galligan. G. Moss 26/9/20<br>

@@ Line 18: / Line 18: @@
 ====South of the pool====
 [[File:CaithDoFon.png|center|thumb|Caith Do Fón San Fharraige|alt=|400x400px]]
-'''Caith Do Fón San Fharraige''' S 4a
+'''Caith Do Fón San Fharraige''' S 4a<br>
-''J McDonald, H Gruber, 28/4/24''
+''J McDonald, H Gruber, 28/4/24''<br>
 ====The pool====
@@ Line 71: / Line 71: @@
-'''An Wriggle Heilbhic''' VS 4c
+'''An Wriggle Heilbhic''' VS 4c<br>
-''H Gruber, J McDonald, 21/4/24''
+''H Gruber, J McDonald, 21/4/24''<br>
 The corner.
 [[File:AWH.jpg|center|thumb|465x465px|An Wriggle Heilbhic]]
@@ Line 117: / Line 117: @@
-'''Ní Thig Le Fir Ach Oiread''' HVS 5a
+'''Ní Thig Le Fir Ach Oiread''' HVS 5a<br>
-''H Gruber, J McDonald, 28/4/24''
+''H Gruber, J McDonald, 28/4/24''<br>
 Obtain the flake and move up and left at the bulge.

@@ Line 72: / Line 72: @@
 '''An Wriggle Heilbhic''' VS 4c
 ''H Gruber, J McDonald, 21/4/24''
 [[File:AWH.jpg|center|thumb|465x465px|An Wriggle Heilbhic]]
 <br />
-=== '''Central''' ===
+==='''Central'''===
 [[File:HHTopo12.jpg|Note: Incorrect label for Tús Maith|center|alt=|frame]]
@@ Line 94: / Line 94: @@
 '''.Taoide Lán.''' M. Severe G. Moss G.Galligan, 26/9/20<br>This climb follows a line 4m right (north) of GG2.
-=== '''An Carraig Bán''' ===
+==='''An Carraig Bán'''===
 '''The foot of the next batch of climbs is reached by scrambling or abseiling down an easy-angled slab (Bealach Éasca) a few metres south of An Carraig Bán. From the foot of the slab scramble around south on ledges to a point 4m of the corner.  (see topo).'''
@@ Line 109: / Line 109: @@
 '''Húrla Hárla'''.  VS4b  G. Moss 13/8/21<br>
-Start 4m down from the corner, on a narrow ledge above the high water mark, below the steep wall.. Climb  diagonally then straight up the wall..
+Start 4m down from the corner, on a narrow ledge above the high water mark, below the steep wall.. Climb  diagonally then straight up the wall.
 '''Bealach Éascha''' Diff.  B. Denton, G. Moss 22/6/21<br>
 The easy-angled slab mentioned above.
-[[File:HHTopo14.jpg||400px|frameless|center]]
+[[File:Bealach Éascha.jpg|center|frame|Bealach Éascha slab routes]]
 '''An Mhaighdean Mhara''' E1 5b S. Daly, G. Moss 22/6/21<br> Start at the bottom right of the easy-angled slab. Climb the steep wall difficulties increasing with height.[[File:HHTopo15.jpg||400px|frameless|center]]
@@ Line 120: / Line 126: @@
 Start from the bottom right of the easy-angled slab. Traverse right (north) through the gap to the foot of the pinnacle. Climb the pinnacle and, from the top, step across onto the face and finish up this.
-=== '''North Butress''' ===
+==='''North Butress'''===
 '''The next two climbs are on the buttress below and north of An Carraig Bán. Access is by abseil, so be sure you can climb at a minimum of 4a before descending.'''

@@ Line 4: / Line 4: @@
 '''This area is sheltered and sunny, offering all year round climbing, but there is some seepage after heavy rain. The climbs are on a short stretch of sea cliffs sandwiched between two inlets. Both of these inlets are important nesting areas and must be avoided.'''
-'''It is hoped that the topos will help in identifying the routes and all gradings should be regarded as provisional.'''[[File:HHTopo1.png|thumb]]
+'''It is hoped that the topos will help in identifying the routes and all gradings should be regarded as provisional.'''[[File:HHTopo1.png|alt=|frame]]
 '''Approach:''' Leave the N25 west of Dungarvan and follow the R674 to Cé Helbhic, Helvick Harbour. From the car park at the harbour walk back to a junction and turn onto the higher road. Walk past the  obelisk and row of cottages, turn right at the two story house and continue uphill to a T junction. Turn here and follow this lane to where it ends, with a wide, unlocked gate into a field on the right (5 min). Go up the steep hill keeping the furze on your left, to reach the summit and remains of a former lookout post. From here locate the start of a narrow path descending steeply through the furze towards a flat white rock (An Carraig Bán) at the top of the cliffs.  15 to 20 minutes.
-<br />[[File:HHTopo2aaa.png||400px|frameless|center]]
+<br />[[File:HHTopo2aaa.png|center|alt=|frame]]
@@ Line 13: / Line 13: @@
 <br />
-===An Droichead===
+==='''An Droichead'''===
 Approach: The foot of the first batch of climbs is gained by abseiling from a block just north of The Arch (An Droichead), or by scrambling across it and climbing down slabs.
-==== South of the pool ====
+====South of the pool====
-[[File:CaithDoFon.png|center|thumb|Caith Do Fón San Fharraige]]
+[[File:CaithDoFon.png|center|thumb|Caith Do Fón San Fharraige|alt=|400x400px]]
 '''Caith Do Fón San Fharraige''' S 4a
 ''J McDonald, H Gruber, 28/4/24''
-==== The pool ====
+====The pool====
 [[File:Helvick Ballygarvan.jpg|400px|frameless|center]]
@@ Line 32: / Line 32: @@
 ''Gerry Galligan, Colm Peppard  10 Aug 2021.''
-==== Seaward side ====
+====Seaward side====
 [[File:HHTopo3.jpg||400px|frameless|center|]]1 '''Tonn Clíodhna'''.  Diff. G. Moss. 14/7//21
@@ Line 47: / Line 47: @@
 '''Téada'''.  E1  S.Daly. G.Moss 23/9/21.<br>This climb takes the north edge of An Droichead, on the seaward face.
-<br />[[File:HHTopo8.png||400px|frameless|center]]
+<br />[[File:HHTopo8.png|Either not '''Amhrán na Farraige''' or route description needs updated.|center|alt=|frame]]
   '''Ceól na Mara'''.  V. Diff P.C. G. Moss 9/8/21/21.<br> Start from a ledge on the north side of the narrow inlet below the seaward face of An Droichead. Gain and climb the obvious sloping ramp running up just  north of An Droichead.
   '''Amhrán na Farraige'''.  V.Diff  G. Moss 14/7/21.<br>
 Start as for Ceól na Mara.  Climb diagonally right (north) to gain the crest of the arete, which is followed to the top.
-[[File:HHTopo9.jpg||400px|frameless|center]]
+[[File:HHTopo9.jpg|Either not '''Ildáthach''' or route description needs updated|center|alt=|frame]]
   '''Ildáthach'''.  Mild Severe  G. Moss 14/7/21/21<br>
-Start as for Ceól na Mara.  Climb diagonally right (north) to gain the arete and continue scrambling  north above the high tide mark for a few metres to the foot of a dark, narrow, stepped slab which  is streaked with white quartzite.  Climb the slab to the top
+Start as for Ceól na Mara.  Climb diagonally right (north) to gain the arete and continue scrambling  north above the high tide mark for a few metres to the foot of a dark, narrow, stepped slab which  is streaked with white quartzite.  Climb the slab to the top.
 [[File:HHTopo10.png||400px|frameless|center]]
@@ Line 64: / Line 65: @@
 Start as for Ceól na Mara. Climb diagonally right (north) to gain the crest of the arete. Scramble north above the high tide mark, passing Ildáthach, to the foot of an easy angled chimney slanting up right on its lower section and bending on the upper half. Climb the chimney.
-[[File:HHTopo11.png||400px|frameless|center]]
+[[File:HHTopo11.png|Either not '''Clúid''' or route description needs updated|center|alt=|frame]]
 '''Clúid'''.  HVS  S. Daly, G. Moss 24/8/21<br>
 Start as for Ceól na Mara.. Scramble north above the high water mark, passing Ildáthach to the foot of a narrow, steep facing chimney, which is often damp in the lower section. Climb the chimney.
-'''The next 4 climbs are just of an area of red sandstone and the foot of the climbs is reached by abseiling or scrambling down from a point halfway between An Carraig Bán and An Droichead.''' (see topo).
+'''An Wriggle Heilbhic''' VS 4c
 '''GG2'''.  VS4b. G. Galligan. G. Moss 26/9/20<br>
@@ Line 79: / Line 92: @@
 Start almost 2m right (north) of GG2 and climb directly to the top.
-'''.Taoide Lán.''' M. Severe G. Moss G.Galligan, 26/9/20<br>This climb follows a line 4m right (north) of GG2.[[File:HHTopo12a.jpg||400px|frameless|center]]
+'''.Taoide Lán.''' M. Severe G. Moss G.Galligan, 26/9/20<br>This climb follows a line 4m right (north) of GG2.
-'''The foot of the next batch of climbs is reached by scrambling or abseiling  down an easy-angled slab (Bealach Éasca) a few metres. of An Carraig Bán.  From the foot of the slab scramble around south on ledges to a point 4m of the corner.  (see topo).'''
+=== '''An Carraig Bán''' ===
 [[File:HHTopo13.jpg||400px|frameless|center]]
@@ Line 109: / Line 120: @@
 Start from the bottom right of the easy-angled slab. Traverse right (north) through the gap to the foot of the pinnacle. Climb the pinnacle and, from the top, step across onto the face and finish up this.
 '''The next two climbs are on the buttress below and north of An Carraig Bán. Access is by abseil, so be sure you can climb at a minimum of 4a before descending.'''

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-There are two separate climbing areas on Helvick Head, i.e. Helvick Head northeast and Helvick Head southeast, with different approaches to each.
+There are two separate climbing areas on Helvick Head, Helvick Head northeast and Helvick Head southeast.
-===Helvick Head northeast===
+==Helvick Head northeast==
-[[File:HHTopo1.png|thumb]]
+'''This area is sheltered and sunny, offering all year round climbing, but there is some seepage after heavy rain. The climbs are on a short stretch of sea cliffs sandwiched between two inlets. Both of these inlets are important nesting areas and must be avoided.'''
-'''Approach. Leave the N25 west of Dungarvan and follow the R674 to Cé Helbhic,  Helvick Harbour. From the car park at the harbour walk back to a junction and turn onto the higher road. Walk past the  obelisk and row of cottages, turn right at the two story house and continue uphill to a T junction. Turn here and follow this lane to where it ends, with a wide, unlocked gate into a field on the right (5 min). Go up the steep hill keeping the furze on your left, to reach the summit and remains of a former lookout post. From here locate the start of a narrow path descending steeply through the furze towards a flat white rock (An Carraig Bán) at the top of the cliffs.  15 to 20 minutes'''.
 <br />[[File:HHTopo2aaa.png||400px|frameless|center]]
-'''It is hoped that the topos will help in identifying the routes and all gradings should be regarded as provisional.'''
+'''The climbs are described from left (south) to right (north) when facing the rock and the first routes are reached by traversing above the top of the climbs along steep grassy slopes, to a point above The Arch (An Droichead).'''
-'''The climbs are described from to right (north) when facing the rock and the first routes are reached by traversing above the top of the climbs along steep grassy slopes, to a point above The Arch (An Droichead).'''
+<br />
-[[File:HHTopo3.jpg||400px|frameless|center|]]
+===An Droichead===
-'''The foot of the first batch of climbs is gained by abseiling from a block just north of The Arch (An Droichead), or by scrambling across it and back climbing down slabs and a final steep section.'''
+==== The pool ====
-'''Tonn Clíodhna'''.  Diff. G. Moss. 14/7//21
+'''The Helvick Thrust'''  VS 12m<br>
  From a ledge on the side of the narrow inlet below the seaward face of An Droichead, climb a short, steep section and continue more easily up the slabs to a belay.<br />[[File:HHTopo3a.jpg||400px|frameless|center]]
@@ Line 31: / Line 47: @@
 '''Téada'''.  E1  S.Daly. G.Moss 23/9/21.<br>This climb takes the north edge of An Droichead, on the seaward face.
-'''The following routes start at the pool:'''
+<br />[[File:HHTopo8.png||400px|frameless|center]]
   '''Ceól na Mara'''.  V. Diff P.C. G. Moss 9/8/21/21.<br> Start from a ledge on the north side of the narrow inlet below the seaward face of An Droichead. Gain and climb the obvious sloping ramp running up just  north of An Droichead.
@@ Line 112: / Line 117: @@
 This climb follows a line up the right (north) side of the face.
-===Helvick Head southwest===
+==Helvick Head southwest==
-'''Approach: Leave the N25 south of Dungarvan and turn onto the R674, following signposts for An Rinn, Cé Heilbhic.  . After passing An Linn Buidhe café and supermarket on your left, continue for about 200m and take the turn on the right, at a small crossroads. Follow this narrow road to a carpark and viewing point at its highest point, as shown on sheet 82 of the OS Discovery series (GR X309 882)'''
+'''Approach:''' Leave the N25 south of Dungarvan and turn onto the R674, following signposts for An Rinn, Cé Heilbhic.  . After passing An Linn Buidhe café and supermarket on your left, continue for about 200m and take the turn on the right, at a small crossroads. Follow this narrow road to a carpark and viewing point at its highest point, as shown on sheet 82 of the OS Discovery series (GR X309 882)
 <display_map>52.045373, -7.550666~Helvick Head car park</display_map>

@@ Line 37: / Line 37: @@
 [[File:Helvick Ballygarvan.jpg|400px|frameless|center]]
-'''The Helvick Thrust'''  V 12m<br>
+'''The Helvick Thrust'''  VS 12m<br>
 Takes a line 1m to the left of the sea arch corner, directly to the top.   Good protection when needed.<br>
 ''Colm Peppard, Gerry Galligan  10 Aug 2021.''
-'''Lèse-Majesté'''   12m<br>
+'''Lèse-Majesté'''   S 12m<br>
 Takes the thin crack 2m to the left of the sea arch corner, directly to the top.<br>
 ''Gerry Galligan, Colm Peppard  10 Aug 2021.''

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:51, 12 June 2023
Line 1:		Line 1:
−	There are two separate climbing areas on Helvick Head, i.e. Helvick Head northeast and Helvick Head southeast, with different approaches to ~~both~~.	+	There are two separate climbing areas on Helvick Head, i.e. Helvick Head northeast and Helvick Head southeast, with different approaches to each.

	===Helvick Head northeast===		===Helvick Head northeast===

@@ Line 3: / Line 3: @@
 ===Helvick Head northeast===
-[[File:HHTopo1.png||400px|frameless|center]]
+[[File:HHTopo1.png||thumbnail]
 '''Approach. Leave the N25 west of Dungarvan and follow the R674 to Cé Helbhic,  Helvick Harbour. From the car park at the harbour walk back to a junction and turn onto the higher road. Walk past the  obelisk and row of cottages, turn right at the two story house and continue uphill to a T junction. Turn here and follow this lane to where it ends, with a wide, unlocked gate into a field on the right (5 min). Go up the steep hill keeping the furze on your left, to reach the summit and remains of a former lookout post. From here locate the start of a narrow path descending steeply through the furze towards a flat white rock (An Carraig Bán) at the top of the cliffs.  15 to 20 minutes'''.