Great Sugar Loaf - Revision history

Barry watts: /* Approach. */

2022-10-13T12:07:36Z

Approach.

Timc: Added route Sugar LumpLump E1 5b

2022-10-13T09:20:03Z

Added route Sugar LumpLump E1 5b

Shayoh: Tidied topos

2022-05-18T22:07:12Z

Tidied topos

Germoss: /* Carraig na gCeann Buttress, Great Sugarloaf. GR O238 142 */

2022-03-30T15:59:16Z

Carraig na gCeann Buttress, Great Sugarloaf. GR O238 142

Germoss: Added topo

2022-03-30T15:57:04Z

Added topo

Germoss: /* Carraig na gCeann Buttress, Great Sugarloaf. GR O238 142 */

2022-03-30T15:43:13Z

Carraig na gCeann Buttress, Great Sugarloaf. GR O238 142

Germoss: uploaded topo

2022-03-30T15:38:53Z

uploaded topo

Germoss: added topo

2022-03-30T15:30:37Z

added topo

Germoss: /* Carraig na gCeann Buttress, Great Sugarloaf. GR O238 142 */

2022-03-29T19:03:23Z

Carraig na gCeann Buttress, Great Sugarloaf. GR O238 142

Germoss at 19:58, 22 March 2022

2022-03-22T19:58:36Z

@@ Line 15: / Line 15: @@
 [[File:Loafing About.jpg|600px|frameless|center]]
 '''Loafing About    Diff.'''<br>This climb takes the narrow, slabby buttress near the foot of the scree  Start at the lowest point, below a short, wide crack. Keep to the crest of the rib for the best climbing. Descend by scrambling across right(facing in) for about 20m to a prominent, solitary furze bush, from where a path leads back down to the scree..<br>''G.Moss. L.Convery. 1980.''
 [[File:Sugarloaf3ab.jpg|600px|frameless|center]
-'''Sugar Lump Diff..'''<br>
+'''Sugar Lump Diff..'''<br>This climb tackles a short buttress between Loafing About and the main buttress. Start about 20m up the gully from Loafing About and 1m left of a large boulder at the foot of a buttress. Climb up and diagonally right to gain a good horizontal crack. Continue up, moving across right to the edge and on up to a stance below the furze bush. Descend by the path behind the furze bush. .<br>''G. Moss 20/6/2015.''
 [[File:Sugarloaf6 (1).jpg|600px|frameless|center]]
@@ Line 32: / Line 27: @@
 '''SECTION A There is a tall furze bush growing at its foot and two small holly trees growing on the face. The starting points for all the routes on this buttress are best approached by scrambling up diagonally left from the foot of the arête on Section B. The first two routes start from a little ledge just above the base of the furze bush.'''
 [[File:Sugarloaf4.jpg|600px|frameless|center]]
 '''1. Raven Chimney Diff. .'''<br>In some years a pair of ravens set up home in the chimney, at such times it is best avoided during the nesting season. Start on a small ledge just above the furze bush. Traverse left below a block to the foot of the shallow chimney on the left edge of the buttress. Climb the chimney. .<br>''H.Herzmann. G. Moss 23/7/2014.''
@@ Line 51: / Line 45: @@
 '''7. Sweet Tooth. VS 4b/c .'''<br>Start at the foot of the arête. Delicate climbing up the arête leads to more positive holds and good gear below a slightly overhanging section which is taken direct and provides the crux. Continue up more easily. .<br>''G. Moss B. Lawless 13/9/2014.''
-''8. Toute Suite! VS 4c .''<br>This route provides the dividing line between Sections B and C. Start 2m right of the arête. Climb directly to the foot of the short crack in the center of the corner at about two thirds height, keeping left of the stacked blocks. Bridge up the corner, on positive holds, with good pro. .<br>G. Moss H.Herzmann, B. Lawless 9/6/2015
+'''8. Toute Suite! VS 4c .'''<br>This route provides the dividing line between Sections B and C. Start 2m right of the arête. Climb directly to the foot of the short crack in the center of the corner at about two thirds height, keeping left of the stacked blocks. Bridge up the corner, on positive holds, with good pro. .<br>G. Moss H.Herzmann, B. Lawless 9/6/2015
 '''Note: immediately right of Toute Suite! there is an area of large stacked blocks, these may be unstable and should be avoided. I have marked this area on the topo.'''

@@ Line 55: / Line 55: @@
 '''Note: immediately right of Toute Suite! there is an area of large stacked blocks, these may be unstable and should be avoided. I have marked this area on the topo.'''
-'''SECTION C.'''
+'''SECTION C. Beyond the area of stacked blocks is a steep arete and roof that guards access to the upper face.'''
 [[File:Sugarloaf7.jpg|600px|frameless|center]]
 '''9. Uppercrust HVS 5a .'''<br>A bouldering start leads to easier climbing. Start near the right edge of the buttress and right of an overhanging corner, on a boulder below a small overhang at 2m. Make strenuous moves to surmount the overhang, then traverse left to the foot of a crack which is followed pleasantly to the top. .''<br>G. Moss J.Byrne 11/08/2012.''
 '''10. Crumbs Mod. .'''<br>Start at the right edge of the buttress, 4m right of Uppercrust, on a boulder below a wide, slanting crack. From the top of the boulder enter the crack system and follow it to the top .<br>''G. Moss 22/9/2013''

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-[[File:Sugarloaf2.jpg|thumb|Main Features]]
+[[File:Sugarloaf2.jpg|600px|frameless|center|Main Features]]
 ====Carraig na gCeann Buttress, Great Sugarloaf. GR O238 142====
@@ Line 5: / Line 5: @@
 ====Approach.====
-[[File:Sugarloaf1.jpg|thumb]]
+[[File:Sugarloaf1.jpg|600px|frameless|center]]
@@ Line 13: / Line 13: @@
 '''All grades should be taken as provisional. All anchors on top are created using nut, hex or cam placements in the rock. There are further possibilities but good judgment will be needed when choosing which line to tackle. Climbs are described from left to right.'''
-[[File:Loafing About.jpg|thumb]]
+[[File:Loafing About.jpg|600px|frameless|center]]
@@ Line 20: / Line 20: @@
 Start at the lowest point, below a short, wide crack. Keep to the crest of the rib for the best climbing. Descend by scrambling across right(facing in) for about 20m to a prominent, solitary furze bush, from where a path leads back down to the scree..<br>
 ''G.Moss. L.Convery. 1980.''
-[[File:Sugarloaf3ab.jpg|thumb]]
+[[File:Sugarloaf3ab.jpg|600px|frameless|center]
 '''Sugar Lump Diff..'''<br>
 This climb tackles a short buttress between Loafing About and the main buttress. Start about 20m up the gully from Loafing About and 1m left of a large boulder at the foot of a buttress. Climb up and diagonally right to gain a good horizontal crack. Continue up, moving across right to the edge and on up to a stance below the furze bush. Descend by the path behind the furze bush. .<br>''G. Moss 20/6/2015.''
-[[File:Sugarloaf6 (1).jpg|thumb]]
+[[File:Sugarloaf6 (1).jpg|600px|frameless|center]]
@@ Line 31: / Line 31: @@
 '''SECTION A There is a tall furze bush growing at its foot and two small holly trees growing on the face. The starting points for all the routes on this buttress are best approached by scrambling up diagonally left from the foot of the arête on Section B. The first two routes start from a little ledge just above the base of the furze bush.'''
-[[File:Sugarloaf4.jpg|thumb]]
+[[File:Sugarloaf4.jpg|600px|frameless|center]]
@@ Line 56: / Line 56: @@
 '''SECTION C.'''
-[[File:Sugarloaf7.jpg|thumb]]
+[[File:Sugarloaf7.jpg|600px|frameless|center]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:59, 30 March 2022
Line 13:		Line 13:

	'''All grades should be taken as provisional. All anchors on top are created using nut, hex or cam placements in the rock. There are further possibilities but good judgment will be needed when choosing which line to tackle. Climbs are described from left to right.'''		'''All grades should be taken as provisional. All anchors on top are created using nut, hex or cam placements in the rock. There are further possibilities but good judgment will be needed when choosing which line to tackle. Climbs are described from left to right.'''
		+	[[File:Loafing About.jpg\|thumb]]
		+

	'''Loafing About Diff.'''<br>		'''Loafing About Diff.'''<br>

@@ Line 54: / Line 54: @@
 '''SECTION C.'''
 '''9. Uppercrust HVS 5a .'''<br>A bouldering start leads to easier climbing. Start near the right edge of the buttress and right of an overhanging corner, on a boulder below a small overhang at 2m. Make strenuous moves to surmount the overhang, then traverse left to the foot of a crack which is followed pleasantly to the top. .''<br>G. Moss J.Byrne 11/08/2012.''
 '''10. Crumbs Mod. .'''<br>Start at the right edge of the buttress, 4m right of Uppercrust, on a boulder below a wide, slanting crack. From the top of the boulder enter the crack system and follow it to the top .<br>''G. Moss 22/9/2013''

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:43, 30 March 2022
Line 29:		Line 29:

	'''SECTION A There is a tall furze bush growing at its foot and two small holly trees growing on the face. The starting points for all the routes on this buttress are best approached by scrambling up diagonally left from the foot of the arête on Section B. The first two routes start from a little ledge just above the base of the furze bush.'''		'''SECTION A There is a tall furze bush growing at its foot and two small holly trees growing on the face. The starting points for all the routes on this buttress are best approached by scrambling up diagonally left from the foot of the arête on Section B. The first two routes start from a little ledge just above the base of the furze bush.'''
		+	[[File:Sugarloaf4.jpg\|thumb]]
		+

	'''1. Raven Chimney Diff. .'''<br>In some years a pair of ravens set up home in the chimney, at such times it is best avoided during the nesting season. Start on a small ledge just above the furze bush. Traverse left below a block to the foot of the shallow chimney on the left edge of the buttress. Climb the chimney. .<br>''H.Herzmann. G. Moss 23/7/2014.''		'''1. Raven Chimney Diff. .'''<br>In some years a pair of ravens set up home in the chimney, at such times it is best avoided during the nesting season. Start on a small ledge just above the furze bush. Traverse left below a block to the foot of the shallow chimney on the left edge of the buttress. Climb the chimney. .<br>''H.Herzmann. G. Moss 23/7/2014.''

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:30, 30 March 2022
Line 5:		Line 5:

	====Approach.====		====Approach.====
		+	[[File:Sugarloaf1.jpg\|thumb]]
		+
		+
	'''Leave the N11 at junction 8, Kilmacanogue, following signposts for Glendalough but, just before exiting onto the R755 road for Roundwood and Glendalough, turn left onto Quill Road and leave this immediately for the narrow lane on the right, signposted for Fitzsimons G.A.A. pitch. Follow this lane to where it ends at a car park outside the football grounds, making sure not to block vehicle access to the clubhouse.'''		'''Leave the N11 at junction 8, Kilmacanogue, following signposts for Glendalough but, just before exiting onto the R755 road for Roundwood and Glendalough, turn left onto Quill Road and leave this immediately for the narrow lane on the right, signposted for Fitzsimons G.A.A. pitch. Follow this lane to where it ends at a car park outside the football grounds, making sure not to block vehicle access to the clubhouse.'''

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:58, 22 March 2022
Line 1:		Line 1:
		+	[[File:Sugarloaf2.jpg\|thumb\|Main Features]]
		+
	====Carraig na gCeann Buttress, Great Sugarloaf. GR O238 142====		====Carraig na gCeann Buttress, Great Sugarloaf. GR O238 142====
	'''A quartzite buttress high up on the northeast slope of the Sugarloaf. The buttress faces east, is sheltered from most winds and from mid-March to end of September can be a pleasant suntrap on fine mornings but the sun goes off it by early afternoon and during the winter months it gets no sun at all and is prone to some seepage, so it should not be regarded as a venue for the winter months.'''		'''A quartzite buttress high up on the northeast slope of the Sugarloaf. The buttress faces east, is sheltered from most winds and from mid-March to end of September can be a pleasant suntrap on fine mornings but the sun goes off it by early afternoon and during the winter months it gets no sun at all and is prone to some seepage, so it should not be regarded as a venue for the winter months.'''