Glendalough West Wing & Main Face - Revision history

Barry watts: /* THE MAIN FACE */

2026-04-20T20:21:11Z

THE MAIN FACE

Shayoh: /* THE MAIN FACE */

2021-03-25T17:32:34Z

THE MAIN FACE

Shayoh: /* THE MAIN FACE */

2021-03-25T17:31:08Z

THE MAIN FACE

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Shayoh: /* THE MAIN FACE */

2021-03-25T17:25:52Z

THE MAIN FACE

Shayoh at 17:23, 25 March 2021

2021-03-25T17:23:55Z

Shayoh: /* THE MAIN FACE */ topo added

2021-03-25T17:22:23Z

THE MAIN FACE: topo added

Shayoh: /* THE MAIN FACE */ Numbering

2021-03-25T17:18:31Z

THE MAIN FACE: Numbering

Shayoh: /* THE MAIN FACE */

2021-03-25T17:16:15Z

THE MAIN FACE

Shayoh: /* FAR WEST BUTTRESS */

2021-03-25T17:14:38Z

FAR WEST BUTTRESS

Shayoh: /* EXPECTANCY SLAB */

2021-03-25T17:12:39Z

EXPECTANCY SLAB

@@ Line 117: / Line 117: @@
 . 10m Continue up the corner crack and then move out left onto the arête to finish.<BR>
 The original route included a now neglected introductory pitch at 4b which follows a rock rib to a midway ledge and then moves right to regain the groove which is followed to the usual starting belay on the path below the steep wall.<BR>
-F. Winder, P. Kelly, 7/6/1953.<BR>
+F. Winder, P. Kenny, 7/6/1953.<BR>
 '''Variation''' 15m VS (4b)1a. Climb the steep shallow corner to the right of the arête to a ledge. Move right around a corner using small finger holds and continue up a groove to a good ledge and belay.<BR>
 '''Variation''' 10m HVS (5a/b) 2a. From the left end of the belay ledge make a hard move up the arête and toe traverse a horizontal crack leftwards. Continue up the slab to regain the crest of the arête. Rarely done.<BR>

@@ Line 184: / Line 184: @@
 '''The following sextet of routes is found on the well-defined triangular facet of the central Main Face area. It is criss-crossed by several fine climbs, making it possible, and often desirable, to climb the Face using various combinations of pitches.'''
-[[File:G page 039 Glendalough.jpg|500px|Main Face right]]
+[[File:G page 039 Glendalough.jpg|600|Main Face right]]
 SPÉIRBHEAN ** 20m VS (4c)<BR>

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 [http://www.mountaineering.ie/shop/ Printed guidebook available here]
-== TWIN BUTTRESS - WEST WING ==
+==TWIN BUTTRESS - WEST WING==
 ====FAR WEST BUTTRESS====
@@ Line 107: / Line 107: @@
 S.R. Young, D. Doyle, 30/3/1974
-====THE MAIN FACE====
+==THE MAIN FACE==
 '''At the base of the Main Face there is a large sloping heather terrace separated by a zone of broken rock and vegetation from the boulders below. Most of the routes start off this terrace. To reach this, leave the path to the West Buttress at the steep rocky stream-bed where a path breaks right, giving easy access to the Main Face between Quartz Gully and Sarcophagus.'''
@@ Line 186: / Line 186: @@
 SPÉIRBHEAN ** 20m VS (4c)<BR>

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 [http://www.mountaineering.ie/shop/ Printed guidebook available here]
-TWIN BUTTRESS - WEST WING
+====FAR WEST BUTTRESS====
 This faces west behind the left edge of the Main Face. From Base Camp at Acorn Buttress follow a rough, rising path leftwards to a steep, rocky stream-bed, often dry. (From here a short path breaks back right giving easy access to Main Face routes between Quartz Gully and Sarcophagus).
 Scramble steeply up to the right of the watercourse following well-worn grooves and a short traverse to an easy 3m step. This leads to the foot of the clean, cracked slab of Expectancy distinguished by a prominent holly tree in its left corner. To reach the routes starting on the left end of the crag scramble further up past steep, wet and slippery ground.

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:22, 25 March 2021
Line 183:		Line 183:

	'''The following sextet of routes is found on the well-defined triangular facet of the central Main Face area. It is criss-crossed by several fine climbs, making it possible, and often desirable, to climb the Face using various combinations of pitches.'''		'''The following sextet of routes is found on the well-defined triangular facet of the central Main Face area. It is criss-crossed by several fine climbs, making it possible, and often desirable, to climb the Face using various combinations of pitches.'''
		+	[[File:G page 039 Glendalough.jpg\|thumb\|Main Face right]]

@@ Line 108: / Line 108: @@
 ====THE MAIN FACE====
-At the base of the Main Face there is a large sloping heather terrace separated by a zone of broken rock and vegetation from the boulders below. Most of the routes start off this terrace. To reach this, leave the path to the West Buttress at the steep rocky stream-bed where a path breaks right, giving easy access to the Main Face between Quartz Gully and Sarcophagus.
+'''At the base of the Main Face there is a large sloping heather terrace separated by a zone of broken rock and vegetation from the boulders below. Most of the routes start off this terrace. To reach this, leave the path to the West Buttress at the steep rocky stream-bed where a path breaks right, giving easy access to the Main Face between Quartz Gully and Sarcophagus.'''
 [[File:G page 36 main face left.jpg|600|Main Face left]]
 DEIRDRE ** 25m VS (4c,3c)<BR>
 Tackles the left edge of the Main Face right of Expectancy Slab and is clearly visible from below. There are several alternatives but the following is the most popular line.<BR>
 . 15m Just right of the foot of the true arête there is an open shallow corner with a thin crack. Climb the arête left of the crack to a good ledge. The exquisite, thin crack above is grappled past the vacant pod to another ledge. Belay in the corner.<BR>
@@ Line 124: / Line 124: @@
 K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 1979. (Top roped prior to ascent).
 CAROLINE ** 17m E4 (5c)<BR>
 A beautiful line that climbs the wall and groove 5m to the right of Deirdre.<BR>
 D. Ayton, S. McMullan, 18/09/2004.<BR>
 (Top roped prior to ascent. 3 pre-placed wires).
-LOVE NEVER DIES		20m.	E1(5b)<br>
+a  LOVE NEVER DIES		20m.	E1(5b)<br>
 Start at base of corner right of Deirdre and Caroline. Move up rightwards across the right wall towards arête and up to vegetated ledge above. From its left end climb cracks in wall to niche above. Continue up leftwards to finish at abseil ring.<BR>
 T.O'Neill, Dave Craig, S. Daly, 5 June 2009
@@ Line 144: / Line 144: @@
 Terence O'Neill, Dave Craig, Síle Daly, 20/07/2008
 THE NEST 50m VS (4c,4a,4b)<BR>
 A fractured line that loses out by comparison to the Main Face routes to the right. It takes the prominent, leaning groove leading up to the holly tree just left of the great white vein of Quartz Gully. Start as for Quartz Gully.<BR>
 . 21m Climb diagonally leftwards to the base of the groove to reach a niche and holly tree; this point can also be reached either by a direct start (4c) from the left or by following Quartz Gully until a short traverse can be made to the holly tree, also at (4c). Break out left over the shattered overhang with care and continue up to a large spike belay.<BR>
@@ Line 151: / Line 151: @@
 S.R. Young, D. Ó Murchú (2 aid points), 9/6/1973.
 CALIPH 50m VS (4c,A1)<BR>
 Lacks distinction. Start as for The Nest.<BR>
 . 27m Move up the corner until just below the Quartz Gully step left. Take the layback crack through the overlap. Belay at the holly tree.<BR>
@@ Line 157: / Line 157: @@
 S.R. Young, 1980.
 QUARTZ GULLY *** 54m HS (3c,4b,3c)<BR>
 An all-time classic line, both striking in its appearance and absorbing in its ascent, with a character-challenging crux. Start directly below the prominent quartz vein.<BR>
 . 24m Climb a short corner for 3m and continue up to a ledge at the foot of a quartz vein. Move right and up steeply on good holds or more easily via the quartz vein to a ledge and block belay.<BR>
@@ Line 164: / Line 164: @@
 F. Winder, P. Kenny, 6/8/1950.
 HOLLY TREE SHUNT * 55m VD (3c,3c)<BR>
 Overshadowed by its more illustrious neighbours but redeemed by a steep and atmospheric top pitch. Start as for Quartz Gully directly below the prominent quartz vein.<BR>
 . 24m Climb a short corner for 3m and continue up to a ledge at the foot of a quartz vein. Move right and up steeply on good holds or more easily via the quartz vein to a ledge and block belay.<BR>
@@ Line 173: / Line 173: @@
 P. Kenny, F. Maguire, F. Winder, 1953.
 THREE IN ONE 57m S (4a,3c,4c,3c)<BR>
 This route combines original route finding with elements of the now-abandoned lower pitches of Spéirbhean as well as the top pitch of Quartz Gully, to form a reasonable line. Well protected. Start just right of Quartz Gully.<BR>
 . 23m Move up left of a crack to a heather ledge at 5m. Climb up a small rib for about 10m before continuing up to the base of the V chimney.<BR>

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:14, 25 March 2021
Line 19:		Line 19:

	'''The next route is found at the extreme left end of Far West Buttress, up the gully and on the same side as Expectancy. Approach via steep, wet ground.'''		'''The next route is found at the extreme left end of Far West Buttress, up the gully and on the same side as Expectancy. Approach via steep, wet ground.'''
−	[[File:G page 030 Glendalough scaled.png\|alt=Routes 3 - 12 Expectancy area\|center\|frameless\|~~600x600px~~\|Routes 3 - 12. Expectancy area]]	+
		+	[[File:G page 030 Glendalough scaled.png\|alt=Routes 3 - 12 Expectancy area\|center\|frameless\|600px\|Routes 3 - 12. Expectancy area]]

@@ Line 79: / Line 79: @@
 ====EXPECTANCY SLAB====
 '''This is the clean cracked slab on the right-hand side of Far West Buttress where the following easily accessible and pleasant routes are found.'''
+[[File:Guide page 032 Glendalough.jpg|500px|Expectancy Slab]]
 VARIANT 21m HS (4b)<BR>
 The mature holly tree conceals a vegetated corner worthwhile for the unexpected holds near the top. Best to start up Georgia and move left above the tree which has grown considerably since the route was first climbed.<BR>
 C. Rice, D. Milnes, 1970.