Glendalough West Wing & Main Face - Revision history

Damien O'Sullivan: /* THE MAIN FACE */

2026-06-24T19:31:18Z

THE MAIN FACE

2026-06-24T19:29:08Z

THE MAIN FACE

2026-06-24T19:20:44Z

FAR WEST BUTTRESS

2026-06-24T19:18:54Z

THE MAIN FACE

2026-04-20T20:21:11Z

THE MAIN FACE

2021-03-25T17:32:34Z

THE MAIN FACE

2021-03-25T17:31:08Z

THE MAIN FACE

2021-03-25T17:25:52Z

THE MAIN FACE

2021-03-25T17:23:55Z

2021-03-25T17:22:23Z

THE MAIN FACE: topo added

@@ Line 215: / Line 215: @@
 F. Winder, S. Rothery, 28/6/1953.
-a - INTERLUDE - 70m VS4c
+a - SYCOMORE - 70m VS4c
 P1. To the left of the low roof at the base of the crag is a groove. Start to the left of the groove, climbing the wall on positive holds. Step right to a sloping ledge. From the sloping ledge climb the crack to a ledge. From the ledge move up and right to the crack on the right. Climb the crack on the right to and through the apex. Follow the rightward trending crack, then move left on good holds to a stance before a hanging slab. Step across a slab to a ledge, pass a large flake then belay close to the arête - this is the same belay as for Prelude-Nightmare.

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 P3. From the ledge climb the crack. Get established above the crack. Make an exciting move to the left to enter a groove. Follow the groove until you reach the slab of Spéirbhean. Follow the line of Spéirbhean to the top.
-Damien O'Sullivan, Joe Purser, Neil Carroll - spring 2026
+Damien O'Sullivan, Joe Purser, Neil Carroll - 14/03/2026
 FANFARE * 64m VS (4b,4a,4c)<BR>

@@ Line 215: / Line 215: @@
 F. Winder, S. Rothery, 28/6/1953.
-a - Name to be decided - 70m VS4c
+a - INTERLUDE - 70m VS4c
 P1. To the left of the low roof at the base of the crag is a groove. Start to the left of the groove, climbing the wall on positive holds. Step right to a sloping ledge. From the sloping ledge climb the crack to a ledge. From the ledge move up and right to the crack on the right. Climb the crack on the right to and through the apex. Follow the rightward trending crack, then move left on good holds to a stance before a hanging slab. Step across a slab to a ledge, pass a large flake then belay close to the arête - this is the same belay as for Prelude-Nightmare.

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 . 40m Follow the curving fault-line. Difficulty increases as it steepens. Bridge up a broad groove to a hanging quartz vein (crux). The climbing relaxes higher up as large holds appear. Swing right out of the groove onto the arête for the final moves.<BR>
 F. Winder, S. Rothery, 28/6/1953.
 FANFARE * 64m VS (4b,4a,4c)<BR>
@@ Line 327: / Line 337: @@
 . 21m Climb the water-worn grooves above to a green ledge on the right below Mica Wall and the start of Bruce's Corner.<BR>
 . 27m Step left onto the rib and follow it mainly on the left flank; halfway up move left into a groove. From a niche at the top step right and up to finish.<BR>
-''F. Winder, S. Rothery, 22/3/1953.<BR>
+''F. Winder, S. Rothery, 22/3/1953.<BR>''
-R. Downes, R. Wathen, Pitch 6, 15/10/1956.''<BR>
+R. Downes, R. Wathen, Pitch 6, 15/10/1956.''<BR>''
 '''Variation'''  6a. The watercourse to the left of Pitch 6 was actually climbed earlier than 1956 when almost dry.<BR>
 ''F. Winder, E. Healy.''

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 . 10m Continue up the corner crack and then move out left onto the arête to finish.<BR>
 The original route included a now neglected introductory pitch at 4b which follows a rock rib to a midway ledge and then moves right to regain the groove which is followed to the usual starting belay on the path below the steep wall.<BR>
-F. Winder, P. Kelly, 7/6/1953.<BR>
+F. Winder, P. Kenny, 7/6/1953.<BR>
 '''Variation''' 15m VS (4b)1a. Climb the steep shallow corner to the right of the arête to a ledge. Move right around a corner using small finger holds and continue up a groove to a good ledge and belay.<BR>
 '''Variation''' 10m HVS (5a/b) 2a. From the left end of the belay ledge make a hard move up the arête and toe traverse a horizontal crack leftwards. Continue up the slab to regain the crest of the arête. Rarely done.<BR>

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 '''The following sextet of routes is found on the well-defined triangular facet of the central Main Face area. It is criss-crossed by several fine climbs, making it possible, and often desirable, to climb the Face using various combinations of pitches.'''
-[[File:G page 039 Glendalough.jpg|500px|Main Face right]]
+[[File:G page 039 Glendalough.jpg|600|Main Face right]]
 SPÉIRBHEAN ** 20m VS (4c)<BR>

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 [http://www.mountaineering.ie/shop/ Printed guidebook available here]
-== TWIN BUTTRESS - WEST WING ==
+==TWIN BUTTRESS - WEST WING==
 ====FAR WEST BUTTRESS====
@@ Line 107: / Line 107: @@
 S.R. Young, D. Doyle, 30/3/1974
-====THE MAIN FACE====
+==THE MAIN FACE==
 '''At the base of the Main Face there is a large sloping heather terrace separated by a zone of broken rock and vegetation from the boulders below. Most of the routes start off this terrace. To reach this, leave the path to the West Buttress at the steep rocky stream-bed where a path breaks right, giving easy access to the Main Face between Quartz Gully and Sarcophagus.'''
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 SPÉIRBHEAN ** 20m VS (4c)<BR>

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:22, 25 March 2021
Line 183:		Line 183:

	'''The following sextet of routes is found on the well-defined triangular facet of the central Main Face area. It is criss-crossed by several fine climbs, making it possible, and often desirable, to climb the Face using various combinations of pitches.'''		'''The following sextet of routes is found on the well-defined triangular facet of the central Main Face area. It is criss-crossed by several fine climbs, making it possible, and often desirable, to climb the Face using various combinations of pitches.'''
		+	[[File:G page 039 Glendalough.jpg\|thumb\|Main Face right]]