Glendalough Upper Cliffs & Hobnail Buttress - Revision history

Shayoh: /* HOBNAIL BUTTRESS */

2021-06-02T14:48:43Z

HOBNAIL BUTTRESS

Shayoh at 13:58, 2 June 2021

2021-06-02T13:58:02Z

Shayoh: /* HOBNAIL BUTTRESS */

2021-06-02T13:56:18Z

HOBNAIL BUTTRESS

Shayoh: /* HOBNAIL BUTTRESS */

2021-05-30T21:52:50Z

HOBNAIL BUTTRESS

Shayoh at 21:49, 30 May 2021

2021-05-30T21:49:25Z

Daveh: Clean up formatting

2021-03-27T11:11:59Z

Clean up formatting

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Shayoh: /* HOBNAIL BUTTRESS */

2021-03-26T11:10:03Z

HOBNAIL BUTTRESS

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Shayoh: /* HOBNAIL BUTTRESS */

2021-03-26T11:03:37Z

HOBNAIL BUTTRESS

Shayoh: /* HOBNAIL BUTTRESS */ added topo

2021-03-26T11:02:54Z

HOBNAIL BUTTRESS: added topo

Shayoh: /* THE UPPER CLIFFS */ added topo, numbers

2021-03-26T10:58:20Z

THE UPPER CLIFFS: added topo, numbers

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@@ Line 67: / Line 67: @@
 . '''PINE TREE CRACK *''' 50m S<br />''J.A.C. Breen, J. Hobbs, August 1991'' <br>
-When this route was first climbed there was a stunted pine tree growing in the handsome crack in the main slab. It succumbed to heavy snow about 2015. It's tough roots may still be seen when stepping into the crack.<br />Start below and right of the handsome crack in the main slab. <br>
+When this route was first climbed there was a stunted pine tree growing in the handsome crack in the main slab. It succumbed to heavy snow about 2017. It's tough roots may still be seen when stepping into the crack.<br />Start below and right of the handsome crack in the main slab. <br>
 ) 23m  Scramble up a crack to a heathery platform. Move right, up a left trending corner and step left into the base of the crack. Follow it to a wide terrace. Climb the wall above to the left of some ivy to belay in a recess.<br />2) 7m Cross boulders to reach a crack on the right side of a sloping boulder below the ivied wall. Traverse left across the top and climb the corner-crack above to belay below the next wall.<br />3) 10m Climb the wide crack, lay-backing from the left, and continue to the top. Alternatively climb the wall to the right of the crack and use the fine crack that slopes to the left to reach the wide crack. This increases the grade to HS.<br />'''Variation''': 1a VS(4c) G. Galligan 11/7/2010<br>From the heathery platform move up and left onto the slab at the bottom of a thin straight crack which slopes up right towards the top of the handsome crack. Follow this through an overlap. As the crack bottoms out on it's mid section, the wider crack to the right may prove useful for placing protection.

@@ Line 66: / Line 66: @@
 ''A crack in the centre of Hobnail is home to several holly trees. The next route starts a couple of metres right of these.''
-. '''PINE TREE CRACK *''' 50m S<br />''J.A.C. Breen, J. Hobbs, August 1991''
+. '''PINE TREE CRACK *''' 50m S<br />''J.A.C. Breen, J. Hobbs, August 1991'' <br>
+When this route was first climbed there was a stunted pine tree growing in the handsome crack in the main slab. It succumbed to heavy snow about 2015. It's tough roots may still be seen when stepping into the crack.<br />Start below and right of the handsome crack in the main slab. <br>
-When this route was first climbed there was a stunted pine tree growing in the handsome crack in the main slab. It succumbed to heavy snow about 2015. It's tough roots may still be seen when stepping into the crack.<br />Start below and right of the handsome crack in the main slab.
+) 23m  Scramble up a crack to a heathery platform. Move right, up a left trending corner and step left into the base of the crack. Follow it to a wide terrace. Climb the wall above to the left of some ivy to belay in a recess.<br />2) 7m Cross boulders to reach a crack on the right side of a sloping boulder below the ivied wall. Traverse left across the top and climb the corner-crack above to belay below the next wall.<br />3) 10m Climb the wide crack, lay-backing from the left, and continue to the top. Alternatively climb the wall to the right of the crack and use the fine crack that slopes to the left to reach the wide crack. This increases the grade to HS.<br />'''Variation''': 1a VS(4c) G. Galligan 11/7/2010<br>From the heathery platform move up and left onto the slab at the bottom of a thin straight crack which slopes up right towards the top of the handsome crack. Follow this through an overlap. As the crack bottoms out on it's mid section, the wider crack to the right may prove useful for placing protection.
 . '''SLAB AND CANTILEVER''' 37m VD<br />''J.A.C. Breen, J. Hobbs, August 1991.''<br />1) 20m Start up a series of slabs, to the right of Pine Tree Cracks, towards the cantilevered rock stuck in a recess above and continue up the vegetated corner to belay in the recess.<br />A more direct start up the slabs is Severe.<br />2) 17m Leaving the recess by its right-hand side, climb the large boulder and wall to the right of the ivy. Belay on a large<br />crack in the rear wall.

@@ Line 66: / Line 66: @@
 ''A crack in the centre of Hobnail is home to several holly trees. The next route starts a couple of metres right of these.''
-. '''PINE TREE CRACK *''' 50m S<br />''J.A.C. Breen, J. Hobbs, August 1991''<br />1) 23m Start below and right of the handsome crack in the main slab in which a pine tree once grew. Scramble up a crack to a heathery ledge. Move right, up a left trending corner and step left into the base of the crack. Follow it to a wide terrace. Climb the wall above to the left of some ivy to belay in a recess.<br />2) 7m Cross boulders to reach a crack on the right side of a sloping boulder below the ivied wall. Traverse left across the top and climb the corner-crack above to belay below the next wall.<br />3) 10m Climb the wide crack, lay-backing from the left, and continue to the top. Alternatively climb the wall to the right of the crack, and use the fine crack that slopes to the left to reach the wide crack. This increases the grade to HS.<br />'''Variation''': 1a VS(4c) G. Galligan 11/7/2010<br>From the heathery ledge move up and left onto the slab at the bottom of a thin straight crack which slopes up right towards the top of the crack which once was home to a pine tree. Follow this through an overlap. As the crack bottoms out on it's mid section, the wider Pine Tree Crack to the right may prove useful.
+. '''PINE TREE CRACK *''' 50m S<br />''J.A.C. Breen, J. Hobbs, August 1991''
 . '''SLAB AND CANTILEVER''' 37m VD<br />''J.A.C. Breen, J. Hobbs, August 1991.''<br />1) 20m Start up a series of slabs, to the right of Pine Tree Cracks, towards the cantilevered rock stuck in a recess above and continue up the vegetated corner to belay in the recess.<br />A more direct start up the slabs is Severe.<br />2) 17m Leaving the recess by its right-hand side, climb the large boulder and wall to the right of the ivy. Belay on a large<br />crack in the rear wall.

@@ Line 62: / Line 62: @@
 . '''SLAG''' 33m VD<br />''D. Ó Murchú, J.A.C. Breen, J. Butler, 5/4/1972.''<br />Start as for Hobnail Chimney.<br />1) 23m Climb the left edge of the slab to a wall. Climb the wall via a corner and move right. Climb the overhang via a steep crack and continue up to the wide ledge of Hobnail Chimney.<br />2) 10m Traverse left on an obvious flake. Climb the left edge of the slab and traverse right under the holly tree past a rocking block to exit.
-. '''TWIN CRACKS''' 31m HS<br />''J.A.C. Breen, J. Hobbs, August 199''1) <br />Start up the slab 1m right of Slag via a right-hand corner.<br />1) 23m Move out onto the slab (crux) and traverse right to another right-hand corner. Climb to the top of the slab through some interesting vegetation and up the twin cracks to a small ledge. The wide and easy crack above leads to the belay shared with Slag.<br />2) 8m Climb the wall on its right-hand side (crux), to belay once more in cohabitation with Slag.
+. '''TWIN CRACKS''' 31m HS<br />''J.A.C. Breen, J. Hobbs, August 199''1<br />Start up the slab 1m right of Slag via a right-hand corner.<br />1) 23m Move out onto the slab (crux) and traverse right to another right-hand corner. Climb to the top of the slab through some interesting vegetation and up the twin cracks to a small ledge. The wide and easy crack above leads to the belay shared with Slag.<br />2) 8m Climb the wall on its right-hand side (crux), to belay once more in cohabitation with Slag.
 ''A crack in the centre of Hobnail is home to several holly trees. The next route starts a couple of metres right of these.''
-. '''PINE TREE CRACK *''' 50m S<br />''G. Galligan, 11 July 2010''<br />1) 23m Start below and right of the handsome crack in the main slab in which a pine tree once grew. Scramble up a crack to a heathery ledge. Move right, up a left trending corner and step left into the base of the crack. Follow it to a wide terrace. Climb the wall above to the left of some ivy to belay in a recess.<br />2) 7m Cross boulders to reach a crack on the right side of a sloping boulder below the ivied wall. Traverse left across the top and climb the corner-crack above to belay below the next wall.<br />3) 10m Climb the wide crack, lay-backing from the left, and continue to the top. Alternatively climb the wall to the right of the crack, and use the fine crack that slopes to the left to reach the wide crack. This increases the grade to HS.<br />J.A.C. Breen, J. Hobbs, August 1991.<br />Variation: 1a VS(4c) G. Galligan 2014 <br>From the heathery ledge move up and left onto the slab at the bottom of a thin straight crack which slopes up right towards the top of the crack which once was home to a pine tree. Follow this through an overlap. As the crack bottoms out on it's mid section, the wider Pine Tree Crack to the right may prove useful.
+. '''PINE TREE CRACK *''' 50m S<br />''J.A.C. Breen, J. Hobbs, August 1991''<br />1) 23m Start below and right of the handsome crack in the main slab in which a pine tree once grew. Scramble up a crack to a heathery ledge. Move right, up a left trending corner and step left into the base of the crack. Follow it to a wide terrace. Climb the wall above to the left of some ivy to belay in a recess.<br />2) 7m Cross boulders to reach a crack on the right side of a sloping boulder below the ivied wall. Traverse left across the top and climb the corner-crack above to belay below the next wall.<br />3) 10m Climb the wide crack, lay-backing from the left, and continue to the top. Alternatively climb the wall to the right of the crack, and use the fine crack that slopes to the left to reach the wide crack. This increases the grade to HS.<br />'''Variation''': 1a VS(4c) G. Galligan 11/7/2010<br>From the heathery ledge move up and left onto the slab at the bottom of a thin straight crack which slopes up right towards the top of the crack which once was home to a pine tree. Follow this through an overlap. As the crack bottoms out on it's mid section, the wider Pine Tree Crack to the right may prove useful.
 . '''SLAB AND CANTILEVER''' 37m VD<br />''J.A.C. Breen, J. Hobbs, August 1991.''<br />1) 20m Start up a series of slabs, to the right of Pine Tree Cracks, towards the cantilevered rock stuck in a recess above and continue up the vegetated corner to belay in the recess.<br />A more direct start up the slabs is Severe.<br />2) 17m Leaving the recess by its right-hand side, climb the large boulder and wall to the right of the ivy. Belay on a large<br />crack in the rear wall.

@@ Line 66: / Line 66: @@
 ''A crack in the centre of Hobnail is home to several holly trees. The next route starts a couple of metres right of these.''
-. '''PINE TREE CRACK *''' 50m S<br />''G. Galligan, 11 July 2010''<br />1) 23m Start below and right of the handsome crack in the main slab in which a pine tree once grew. Scramble up a crack to a heathery ledge. Move right, up a left trending corner and step left into the base of the crack. Follow it to a wide terrace. Climb the wall above to the left of some ivy to belay in a recess.<br />2) 7m Cross boulders to reach a crack on the right side of a sloping boulder below the ivied wall. Traverse left across the top and climb the corner-crack above to belay below the next wall.<br />3) 10m Climb the wide crack, lay-backing from the left, and continue to the top. Alternatively climb the wall to the right of the crack, and use the fine crack that slopes to the left to reach the wide crack. This increases the grade to HS.<br />J.A.C. Breen, J. Hobbs, August 1991.<br />Variation: 1a VS(4c) From the heathery ledge move up and left onto the slab at the bottom of a thin straight crack which slopes up right towards the top of the crack which once was home to a pine tree. Follow this through an overlap. As the crack bottoms out on it's mid section, the wider Pine Tree Crack to the right may prove useful.
+. '''PINE TREE CRACK *''' 50m S<br />''G. Galligan, 11 July 2010''<br />1) 23m Start below and right of the handsome crack in the main slab in which a pine tree once grew. Scramble up a crack to a heathery ledge. Move right, up a left trending corner and step left into the base of the crack. Follow it to a wide terrace. Climb the wall above to the left of some ivy to belay in a recess.<br />2) 7m Cross boulders to reach a crack on the right side of a sloping boulder below the ivied wall. Traverse left across the top and climb the corner-crack above to belay below the next wall.<br />3) 10m Climb the wide crack, lay-backing from the left, and continue to the top. Alternatively climb the wall to the right of the crack, and use the fine crack that slopes to the left to reach the wide crack. This increases the grade to HS.<br />J.A.C. Breen, J. Hobbs, August 1991.<br />Variation: 1a VS(4c) G. Galligan 2014 <br>From the heathery ledge move up and left onto the slab at the bottom of a thin straight crack which slopes up right towards the top of the crack which once was home to a pine tree. Follow this through an overlap. As the crack bottoms out on it's mid section, the wider Pine Tree Crack to the right may prove useful.
 . '''SLAB AND CANTILEVER''' 37m VD<br />''J.A.C. Breen, J. Hobbs, August 1991.''<br />1) 20m Start up a series of slabs, to the right of Pine Tree Cracks, towards the cantilevered rock stuck in a recess above and continue up the vegetated corner to belay in the recess.<br />A more direct start up the slabs is Severe.<br />2) 17m Leaving the recess by its right-hand side, climb the large boulder and wall to the right of the ivy. Belay on a large<br />crack in the rear wall.

@@ Line 49: / Line 49: @@
 This is the small crag below the right-hand end of the Upper Cliffs. It comes into view just after passing the Upper Lake. Zigzag up an old mining track just after the forestry plantation. The climbs, in general, are short and relatively easy but interesting and enjoyable nevertheless.
-[[File:G page 86 Hobnail.jpg|frameless|center|Hobnail Buttress]]
+[[File:G page 86 Hobnail.jpg|800px|center|Hobnail Buttress]]
 WOODSIDE 13m VS (4c)<br/>Start on the upper left-hand side of the buttress, left of a large holly. Climb a series of short cracks and awkward ledges left of the holly trees directly to the top.<br/>M. McSherry, J. Lyons, 15/5/1992.