Gap Of Dunloe - Revision history

Jermur at 13:39, 9 April 2026

2026-04-09T13:39:28Z

Jermur at 12:36, 9 April 2026

2026-04-09T12:36:48Z

Barry watts: /* Céim - East Side of the Gap */

2024-10-01T09:57:45Z

Céim - East Side of the Gap

Barry watts at 10:38, 25 September 2024

2024-09-25T10:38:21Z

Barry watts: /* Jigsaw Wall */

2024-09-23T19:14:23Z

Jigsaw Wall

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Barry watts: /* Cub Crag. */

2024-09-23T19:05:32Z

Cub Crag.

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Barry watts: /* PUBLISHER'S NOTE */

2024-09-23T18:58:37Z

PUBLISHER'S NOTE

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Barry watts: /* The Chimneys */

2024-09-23T14:54:37Z

The Chimneys

Barry watts: /* THE CHIMNEYS */

2024-09-23T14:53:58Z

THE CHIMNEYS

Barry watts: /* The High Buttress */

2024-09-23T14:52:13Z

The High Buttress

@@ Line 857: / Line 857: @@
 '''11:BIMBI LIMBO''' (1) 	50m	HVS 5a
 A. Forde, R. Stack. 18/6/91
-This route takes the extreme right hand side of the buttress, staying right of Scairibhín at all times. Climb the right hand side of the buttress surmounting a small overhang at half height. This route finishes on Burnt Ledge. There are a lot of loose blocks on this climb. EDIT: HVS if you stick to arete, HS if you go right of arete.
+This route takes the extreme right hand side of the buttress, staying right of Scairibhín at all times. Climb the right hand side of the buttress surmounting a small overhang at half height. This route finishes on Burnt Ledge. There are a lot of loose blocks on this climb. EDIT: From the obvious ledge stay on the arete for HVS, step right for HS finish.
 '''12:J.C.B.''' (1) 	40m	VS 4c

@@ Line 857: / Line 857: @@
 '''11:BIMBI LIMBO''' (1) 	50m	HVS 5a
 A. Forde, R. Stack. 18/6/91
-This route takes the extreme right hand side of the buttress, staying right of Scairibhín at all times. Climb the right hand side of the buttress surmounting a small overhang at half height. This route finishes on Burnt Ledge. There are a lot of loose blocks on this climb.
+This route takes the extreme right hand side of the buttress, staying right of Scairibhín at all times. Climb the right hand side of the buttress surmounting a small overhang at half height. This route finishes on Burnt Ledge. There are a lot of loose blocks on this climb. EDIT: HVS if you stick to arete, HS if you go right of arete.
 '''12:J.C.B.''' (1) 	40m	VS 4c

@@ Line 135: / Line 135: @@
 Start 0.5m (!) left of The Revolution Has Begun and go up to groove. Then onto good jug. Mantleshelf onto the crux move (crimp) and then work towards tree on horizontal cracks. Break onto arete. Poor gear on top section but good at bottom, mostly friends.
-'''7:THE REVOLUTION HAS BEGUN'''   12m    HVS 5a/E1 5b (1) [between A6 and A7]
+'''7:THE REVOLUTION HAS BEGUN'''   12m    HVS 5a/E1 5b D. O’Toole 27/10/01
-D. O’Toole 27/10/01
+Boulder start off the horizontal crack. Reach diagonally up left to a horizontal hold, then straight to top via good crimps. Protection is small aliens and red HB offset brassie, all good.
 '''8:TITANIC''' **	12m	VS 4b

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:38, 25 September 2024
Line 1:		Line 1:
−	What follows is 99% originally edited by Richard Stack. Thanks to Richard for allowing us to include the guide in the database.	+	What follows is 90% originally edited by Richard Stack as part of the 1995 Gap of Dunloe rock climbing guidebook which is out of print. Thanks to Richard for allowing us to include the guide in the database.

	A '1' AFTER A ROUTE NAME MEANS THAT THE ROUTE HAS HAD ONLY ONE ASCENT, DUE TO THE LACK OF ASCENTS MANY OF THE GRADES MAY BE INACCURATE. OVER 50 % OF THE ROUTES HAVE NOT HAD A THIRD ASCENT.		A '1' AFTER A ROUTE NAME MEANS THAT THE ROUTE HAS HAD ONLY ONE ASCENT, DUE TO THE LACK OF ASCENTS MANY OF THE GRADES MAY BE INACCURATE. OVER 50 % OF THE ROUTES HAVE NOT HAD A THIRD ASCENT.

@@ Line 257: / Line 257: @@
 Start as for High Hopes, but instead of going left at the overhang, climb straight up the face, topping out at the top out for High Hopes
 '''CRONINS YARD'''		    VDIFF	        16m
 Ger Cronin 		            Solo		24/04/2014

@@ Line 242: / Line 242: @@
 (pile of shite?) Start about 5m to the right of Spider and climb the obvious line to the top.
-=='''THE CHIMNEYS'''==
+=='''The Chimneys'''==
 The area known as The Chimneys is situated on the eastern side of the Gap of Dunloe, above Bothán crag. They are broken down into three main outcrops. The approach is as for Bothán, but continue in a north easterly direction for approx. 10 minutes and you will arrive at the crags. The approach after leaving Bothán may be difficult as the heather in high….but I think its worth the effort. There seems to be very little seepage there.

@@ Line 905: / Line 905: @@
 ==The High Buttress==
 This is the large buttress left of Póirse Gully. It contains two large ledges, the lower one having a large overhang above it. There are many fine long routes on this buttress. At the back left hand side of the first ledge there is a holly tree which acts as an abseil point. Because the overhang hinders further ascent, many of the routes finish on the first ledge. Different routes can also be combined. The first pitch of Seventh Heaven and finishing on Jamaica Plain makes a fine route.
-The top ledge (Burnt Ledge) can be scrambled onto from the right hand side. From the base of the buttress traverse around and up the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the shallow steep gully, which is overgrown with trees. This is quite a tricky ascent.
+The top ledge (Burnt Ledge) can be scrambled onto from the right hand side. From the base of the buttress traverse around and up the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the shallow steep gully, which is overgrown with trees. This is quite a tricky ascent
-[[File:High_Buttress.jpg|640px]]
+[[File:High_Buttress.jpg|alt=|center|640x640px]]
+.'''1:L'ORANGE''' (1) **	20m	E2 5c/6a
 A. Forde, R. Stack. 18/9/90
 This route is on the extreme left of the buttress. At 15m there is a large detached block / flake below a prominent overhang. This route is on the left hand side of the large block of which the right hand side is Deoch Aimsir. Climb directly up to the left hand side of the block and then continue up the crack to the roof. Surmount this and continue more easily to a holly tree belay. Abseil here.