Foill An Priosun - Revision history

Gerry Fogg at 23:16, 23 August 2021

2021-08-23T23:16:17Z

Gerry Fogg: /* South-facing cliff */

2021-08-23T23:13:40Z

South-facing cliff

Gerry Fogg at 06:33, 21 June 2021

2021-06-21T06:33:34Z

Gerry Fogg at 06:16, 21 June 2021

2021-06-21T06:16:50Z

Gerry Fogg at 06:09, 21 June 2021

2021-06-21T06:09:34Z

Gerry Fogg at 06:07, 21 June 2021

2021-06-21T06:07:33Z

Gerry Fogg: /* East-facing cliff */

2021-06-18T23:15:48Z

East-facing cliff

Gerry Fogg at 06:25, 11 June 2021

2021-06-11T06:25:22Z

Gerry Fogg at 14:44, 10 June 2021

2021-06-10T14:44:14Z

Gerry Fogg: /* South-facing cliff */

2021-04-28T21:58:23Z

South-facing cliff

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:16, 23 August 2021
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	J Bergin, S Gallwey, 28th. August, 1989<br>		J Bergin, S Gallwey, 28th. August, 1989<br>
	Located near the right end of the SW facing wall of the cliff. Start in a East facing groove approx. 5m from the corner. <br> (1). 30m. Climb the groove to the top, then break right onto the wall, climbing steeply to a large belay ledge. <br> (2). 15m. Climb easily but without protection on large holds to the top.		Located near the right end of the SW facing wall of the cliff. Start in a East facing groove approx. 5m from the corner. <br> (1). 30m. Climb the groove to the top, then break right onto the wall, climbing steeply to a large belay ledge. <br> (2). 15m. Climb easily but without protection on large holds to the top.
−	~~From higher smaller ledge~~

@@ Line 50: / Line 50: @@
-'''GREETED BY ANTS'''	40m  HVS	5a/b	<br>
+'''GREETED BY ANTS'''	45m HVS	5a/b	<br>
 Start from same point as for Maastricht Groove.<br>
-l. 25m. 5a/b Climb easily up to small overhang at 3m [now with peg] Step right to gain shallow groove/crack.	Follow this to belay ledge.<br>
+l. 30m. 5a/b Climb easily up to small overhang at 3m [now with peg] Step right to gain shallow groove/crack.	Follow this to belay ledge.<br>
 . 15m. As for Shak or else clamber right over holly bush into circular 'room' and climb the back of this to the stairway to the first ledge and abseil.<br>
 G.Fogg, H.Fogg, B. Dunne	16/9/2001	onsight.
@@ Line 62: / Line 62: @@
-'''SHAK''' 	40m	VS 4c<br>
+'''SHAK''' 	45m	VS 4c<br>
 J Bergin, S Gallwey, 28th. August, 1989<br>
-Located near the right end of the SW facing wall of the cliff. Start in a East facing groove approx. 5m from the corner. <br> (1). 25m. Climb the groove to the top, then break right onto the wall, climbing steeply to a large belay ledge. <br> (2). 15m. Climb easily but without protection on large holds to the top.
+Located near the right end of the SW facing wall of the cliff. Start in a East facing groove approx. 5m from the corner. <br> (1). 30m. Climb the groove to the top, then break right onto the wall, climbing steeply to a large belay ledge. <br> (2). 15m. Climb easily but without protection on large holds to the top.
 From higher smaller ledge

@@ Line 154: / Line 154: @@
 These are major features, easily seen on approach (in fact, clearly marked, although not named, on the topo for the East- facing cliff).
-The lower groove leads to the Northern termination of the lower ‘prison’ terrace (although it does continue, past the groove, to Crosseyed and Painless bay).  The upper groove is an obvious open-book feature, capped, precariously, by a large block, that leads to the upper prison terrace.
+The lower groove leads to the Northern termination of the lower ‘prison’ terrace (although the terrace does continue, past the groove, to Crosseyed and Painless bay).  The upper groove is an obvious open-book feature, capped, precariously, by a large block, that leads to the upper prison terrace.
 .  20 4c  Enter the gully and bridge up the groove.  At threequarters height is a squeeze chimney - should you choose to enter it.
@@ Line 189: / Line 189: @@
 H.Hennessy (unseconded) 24/4/21 (ground up after cleaning, one piece insitu from previous attempts)
-'''YONDER COMES MY MOTHER'''  40m  E1/2  5b
+'''YONDER COMES MY MOTHER'''  40m  E1 5b
 To the right (North) of Cross-eyed and Painless bay is a buttress.  The right side of this is defined by a scar running the full height of the cliff - an obvious feature on approach. A long ramp, capped by a roof trends up to the right from this point.  Closer up, the scar resolves into a corner facing NE, with a ragged crack in the back.

@@ Line 131: / Line 131: @@
-'''DROP LEFT''' 40m   HVS  5a  40m<br>
+'''DROP LEFT''' 30m  HVS  5a  <br>
 From the start of Running on Empty, make exposed moves to gain the arête.  Follow this and the crack to the ledge.<br>
 P Britton, C Ennis   17/3/09   onsight.
-'''RUNNING ON EMPTY   '''44m  E1 5b	'''<br>'''
+'''RUNNING ON EMPTY   '''35m  E1 5b	'''<br>'''
 Climb the right-facing corner to the first overhang [nose), move right under this and up to second overhang [eye-socket], right under this and up to terrace. Good protection.<br>
 J Bergin, M Lyng	12/9/1996
@@ Line 146: / Line 146: @@
-'''BRIAN'S SLAB'''   30m  E1  5a 40m	<br>
+'''BRIAN'S SLAB'''   30m  E1  5a <br>
 The slab to the right of Piper's Groove.   Totally absorbing climbing.  The start is the hardest where the rock is broken and slightly undercut.  Above, follow the crack near the left side of the slab for protection.  As this fades to the left, transfer to the crack to the right and repeat higher up.  Small gear throughout.<br>
 G Fogg H Fogg S. Gallwey	21/4/2007,

@@ Line 142: / Line 142: @@
 '''PIPER'S GROOVE  '''30m VS (1957 grade)'''<br>'''
-When Ronnie Wathen climbed this in 1957, it was thought to be the hardest route in the country.  It was repeated by Emmet Goulding in 1959.   It received its third ascent (in all probability) 18th June 2021.   If Quartz Gully is Glendalough’s ‘time-tunnel to the Classic era’ ,this the Comeragh’s time-tunnel.  Modern grading is not well-adapted to this sort of route, but it’s no pushover.<br>
+When Ronnie Wathen climbed this in 1957, it was thought to be the hardest route in the country.  It was repeated by Emmet Goulding in 1959.   It received its third ascent (in all probability) 18th June 2021.   If Quartz Gully is Glendalough’s ‘time-tunnel to the Classic era’, this the Comeragh’s time-tunnel.  Modern grading is not well-adapted to this sort of route, but it’s no pushover.<br>
 T J Meldrum, R J Wathen	1957

@@ Line 142: / Line 142: @@
 '''PIPER'S GROOVE  '''30m VS (1957 grade)'''<br>'''
-When Ronnie Wathen climbed this in 1957, it was thought to be the hardest route in the country.  It was repeated by Emmet Goulding in 1959.   It received its third ascent (in all probability) 18th June 2021.   If Quartz Gully is Glendalough’s ‘time-tunnel to the Classic era’ ,this the Comeragh’s time-tunnel.  Modern grading is not well-adapted to this sort of route, but it feels more like hard HVS.<br>
+When Ronnie Wathen climbed this in 1957, it was thought to be the hardest route in the country.  It was repeated by Emmet Goulding in 1959.   It received its third ascent (in all probability) 18th June 2021.   If Quartz Gully is Glendalough’s ‘time-tunnel to the Classic era’ ,this the Comeragh’s time-tunnel.  Modern grading is not well-adapted to this sort of route, but it’s no pushover.<br>
 T J Meldrum, R J Wathen	1957
@@ Line 193: / Line 193: @@
 To the right (North) of Cross-eyed and Painless bay is a buttress.  The right side of this is defined by a scar running the full height of the cliff - an obvious feature on approach. A long ramp, capped by a roof trends up to the right from this point.  Closer up, the scar resolves into a corner facing NE, with a ragged crack in the back.
-# 25m 5b.  Climb the corner.  At about 8m, an intermediate belay may be taken on the top of the large flake on the right.  The crux is at the top, where the crack overhangs significantly.  A no.4 Camalot gives some comfort at this point.  Committing to the exit delivers one into a deep gully.  Find reliable anchors for the belay further up the gully and return to the lip of the overhang to bring up your second.
+#25m 5b.  Climb the corner.  At about 8m, an intermediate belay may be taken on the top of the large flake on the right.  The crux is at the top, where the crack overhangs significantly.  A no.4 Camalot gives some comfort at this point.  Committing to the exit delivers one into a deep gully.  Find reliable anchors for the belay further up the gully and return to the lip of the overhang to bring up your second.
-# 15m  Bridge easily but without protection up the gully and exit right, keeping alert for the possibility of loose rock.<br>G. Fogg  M. Griffin  18/6/2021.   Cleaned previously on abseil.
+#15m  Bridge easily but without protection up the gully and exit right, keeping alert for the possibility of loose rock.<br>G. Fogg  M. Griffin  18/6/2021.   Cleaned previously on abseil.
 '''From first terrace'''
-* '''RAVEN'S WING'''  8m  HVS 5b	<br> South from the abseil point on the first terrace, at bottom of `stairway' descent from second terrace. Bridge up under overhang to trapped flake and move out right to finish up cleft.<br> G.Fogg H.Fogg H.Fogg 5/9/2004
+*'''RAVEN'S WING'''  8m  HVS 5b	<br> South from the abseil point on the first terrace, at bottom of `stairway' descent from second terrace. Bridge up under overhang to trapped flake and move out right to finish up cleft.<br> G.Fogg H.Fogg H.Fogg 5/9/2004

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 This cliff is so-named for the two large terraces on which sheep get marooned - prisons.
-* [[File:foil an prisun.jpg|200px]]<br> Location - This cliff is at approx. 500 metres in altitude above the main Carrick-on-Suir to Dungarvan road. It is to the west of Kilclooney Farm which is marked on the 1/2 inch O. S. map but not marked on sheet 75 (1 -50000 series).
+*[[File:foil an prisun.jpg|200px]]<br> Location - This cliff is at approx. 500 metres in altitude above the main Carrick-on-Suir to Dungarvan road. It is to the west of Kilclooney Farm which is marked on the 1/2 inch O. S. map but not marked on sheet 75 (1 -50000 series).
 Approach - The best approach to the cliff is from the Carrick - Dungarvan road. Cars may be parked at the South end of the forest at Grid Ref. S342097. The forest boundary may be followed easily to the south west corner, then follow some faint sheep tracks (if you can find them) in the direction of the cliff. It stands out as an obvious prow of rock high on the left (south) as you approach from the forest. Allow about forty minutes for the 1. 5 km approach.
@@ Line 10: / Line 10: @@
 '''THE GREAT ESCAPE''' 80m VS 4c, 4c, 4c, 4c, 4c<br>
-Opposite the South-facing cliffs, and forming the southern boundary of the Prisoon itself, is an arete. Despite its somewhat unprepossessing appearance, this provides a delightful and satisfying outing of five 10 - 15m pitches. Each pitch presents a different challenge and each is fully worthy of its grade. The frequent belays offer repeated opportunities to savour the view and the experience and to light up [smokers only].<br>
+Opposite the South-facing cliffs, is an arete. Despite its somewhat unprepossessing appearance, this provides a delightful and satisfying outing of five 10 - 15m pitches. Each pitch presents a different challenge and each is fully worthy of its grade. The frequent belays offer repeated opportunities to savour the view and the experience and to light up [smokers only].<br>
 . Start at the RHS of the arete. Climb the jamming crack and wind leftwards under the overhang into a groove. Belay under the overhang.<br>
 . Climb up on RHS and step immediately leftward across the lip of the overhang [small friend in vertical crack] to gain the arete. Continue over stacked blocks to grassy belay.<br>
@@ Line 165: / Line 165: @@
 '''At the right hand [North] side of the east facing cliff is a bay with a big overhanging shelter over a slab.  The following climbs are in this bay.'''
-−
+*
-* '''AMULET'''    16m  HVS 5b <br> On the left i.e. north-facing wall of the bay, near the outer edge.<br> Climb the thin crack and escape left onto platform, Up slab to second platform. Up crack to terrace.<br> G.Fogg, H.Fogg ,H.Fogg P.Melanophy	28/8/2004
+*'''AMULET'''    16m  HVS 5b <br> On the left i.e. north-facing wall of the bay, near the outer edge.<br> Climb the thin crack and escape left onto platform, Up slab to second platform. Up crack to terrace.<br> G.Fogg, H.Fogg ,H.Fogg P.Melanophy	28/8/2004

@@ Line 40: / Line 40: @@
 .  5m 4b    Climb the back of the 'room' (as mentioned below) to passageway down to the terrace and abseil.
-G.Fogg  M. Griffin   26/5/2021  Onsight.
+G.Fogg  M. Griffin   26/4/2021  Onsight.
 '''MAASTRICHT GROOVE''' 	40m	HS 4b<br>
@@ Line 172: / Line 172: @@
 S. Ryan, J Bergin 26/7/1989
-'''Whipping BOY''' 15m E4 6a
+'''WHIPPING BOY'''  15m E4 6a
 climbs the roof crack four meters right of cross-eyed and painless. Belay from a grassy ledge below the back of the roof. Climb the slab to gain the crack, climb this to a difficult move over the lip, continue up crack until it is possible to step right underneath smaller roof, climb through this on good holds and finish up short corner.