Fairhead - Revision history

Clareolivia: /* The Bird Hide Block Area */ Tristan crux pitch upgraded to 6a from 5c

2025-12-06T08:27:01Z

The Bird Hide Block Area: Tristan crux pitch upgraded to 6a from 5c

Clareolivia: /* The Terraces */

2025-06-15T20:59:56Z

The Terraces

Clareolivia: /* Binnagapple Area */ An Empty Book E8 right of Green Corner

2025-06-15T06:39:51Z

Binnagapple Area: An Empty Book E8 right of Green Corner

Clareolivia: /* Below the Main Crag */ 3 micro routes/ very high boulders climbed by Ricky Bell 2014/5

2025-06-15T06:30:09Z

Below the Main Crag: 3 micro routes/ very high boulders climbed by Ricky Bell 2014/5

Andy Marshall: /* Rathlin Wall */

2025-06-01T20:28:52Z

Rathlin Wall

Clareolivia at 05:46, 26 May 2025

2025-05-26T05:46:57Z

Clareolivia: New route: Tangled Traverse

2025-05-25T19:46:27Z

New route: Tangled Traverse

Clareolivia: 2 new routes - Superpod and The Dharma Bums

2025-05-25T19:20:51Z

2 new routes - Superpod and The Dharma Bums

Clareolivia: Blackout - new route near Back to the Future 8

2025-05-25T18:43:42Z

Blackout - new route near Back to the Future 8

Clareolivia: Variations for second pitch of Scarecrow

2025-05-25T17:23:58Z

Variations for second pitch of Scarecrow

@@ Line 226: / Line 226: @@
 '''37. Snatch of the Day * 20m VS (5a)'''<br>
-''S Billane. 33/6/1975.''<br>
+''S Billane. [[Tel:33/6/1975|33/6/1975]].''<br>
 The overhanging cleft immediately right of Morrigan.
@@ Line 1,358: / Line 1,358: @@
 '''To the left of the start of The Artful Dodger a series of cracks and grooves runs for about 15 metres leftwards to a broken toppled pillar. The long routes here follow high-quality jamming cracks as first pitches and then have interesting varied climbing in their upper sections. There are also a few one-pitch options running up from the big mid-way ledge visible from the top. This ledge can be accessed by a 60m abseil.'''
-'''177d Tristan**    105m    E3 5c, 5c, 5b''' <br>
+'''177d Tristan**    105m    E3 5c, 6a, 5b''' <br>
 ''C Sheridan  C Torrans  I Rea   25/03/17''<br>
   42m  5c   Start just right of the broken toppled pillar below a low square-cut overhang. Climb around the overhang on the left to gain the crack (difficult). Follow the crack to the bottom of the broad ramp. Good belay.<br>
-  38m  5c   Follow the left-trending ramp to the steep crack. Climb this (crux) to flat holds and a big brown jug where you move right to a groove. Follow this to a small roof, move left to the crack and continue up this to a belay in the groove. This point gives easy access to the top pitch of Iseult.<br>
+  38m  6a Follow the left-trending ramp to the steep crack. Climb this (crux) to flat holds and a big brown jug where you move right to a groove. Follow this to a small roof, move left to the crack and continue up this to a belay in the groove. This point gives easy access to the top pitch of Iseult.<br>
   25m  5a   Climb up and left across the wall on a line of weakness and finish up the crack.            A direct finish up the vegetated groove was climbed by Peter Owens at 4c.

@@ Line 1,347: / Line 1,347: @@
 ) 35m (5c). Climb the crack in the rib, move right and up the continuation crack, step right again and up easy ground to the horizontal grass ledge. Pull left to a comfortable belay below a small flake overhang.<br>
 ) 50m (5c). Directly above the belay, surmount the flake on its left (crux). Follow the narrow slab above to the roof which is climbed using the crack on its left side and a jammed block on the lip. Continue up the groove system, passing another overhang, to the top.
 ==Tristan to Blockbuster Area==
@@ Line 1,485: / Line 1,487: @@
 ''E Cooper, P Nolan. 5/1994.''<br>
 Climbs the right-hand crack, which starts right above the belay. Abseil down as for the previous route. Climb the crack direct to the top. Slightly easier than Fired Earth, but less well protected.
 '''190. Bates's Motel ** 66m E3 (5b, 5c, 5b)'''<br>

@@ Line 568: / Line 568: @@
 ) 17m. Scramble up to the base of the gully.<br>
 ) 38m. Climb gingerly up the corner above, beware of loose rocks.
 '''90. Visual Contact ** 50m E3 (6b)'''<br>

@@ Line 456: / Line 456: @@
 Gain the slab with difficulty at the step in the overlap and pad up with some trepidation to a thought provoking rockover.  A couple of skyhooks provide the sole protection.
-'''78b Get a Life, Get a Pallet ***  12m  E7 (6c)'''<br>
+'''78b The Big Black ***  E7 (6c)'''                                                                                                                                                  ''R Bell (headpoint - solo)  3/3/14''                                                                                                                                                The arete right of The Big Blue starting from the hanging boss. Some delicate crimping leads to a barn door move on the arete. Jugs from half-height and jump over the chasm to get down.
 ''R Bell (solo). Spring 2011.''<br>
 Up the middle of the big black overhanging boulder.
 =The Main Crag=

@@ Line 1,723: / Line 1,723: @@
 ''A. Marshall, S. Gordon, L. Quinn 29/9/2018.''<br>The arête to the left of The Complete Scream. Climb Promised land for 10m until a groove at the bottom of the arête. Climb the technical groove until large flat holds lead back to the crack of Promised Land. Arrange protection in the crack of Promised Land and follow holds back up to the arête. Climb the arête and then move through an overlap (crux). Continue up the arête above to a good ledge. Traverse right on the face and then up until an airy move back left leads to a flat hold beside the arête. Climb the arête to the belay of Promised Land. Traverse right and then move along the rising rightward trending crack following it until it runs out. Make moves up and right along the band of rock until the final crack of Primal Scream is reached.
-*This route was originally done in 1986 as a Sport Route, "Spirit of Ecstasy" by John Codling and Gary Gibson in 1986. The bolts were removed shortly after the first ascent and a peg used to equip the route was removed before its first Traditional Ascent.
+*This route was originally done in 1986 as a Sport Route, "Spirit of Ecstasy" by John Codling and Gary Gibson in 1986. The bolts were removed shortly after the first ascent and a peg used to equip the route was removed before its first Traditional Ascent. Although it now has had a traditional ascent it would make a far better sport route.
 ''' To the right of The Stoat the two grooves of ''Heaven Can Wait'' and Promised Land run up to a huge overhang high on the face and the next feature is a fine compact wall with a big corner on its right (Blind Pew). As the path rises and passes the huge flat boulder a little further along, the curving crack line of Salango and the enormous corner of Equinox are unmistakable.'''

@@ Line 473: / Line 473: @@
 '''The rock here is clean and lichen free, as it gets the early morning sun, and there is a good selection of three star routes.'''
 '''79. December ** 55m HVS (4c, 5a)'''<br>
@@ Line 1,134: / Line 1,136: @@
 ) 20m (5b). A perfect jamming crack leads straight up to the top.
-'''163a Blackout***  95m  E5 (5c, 5c, 6a)'''                                                                                                                                                   ''K McCoey, T Neil.''                                                                                                                                                                        About 20m east of the fence and just before the Bird Hide Block ab in boulders is a good spike/boulder to ab off at the cliff edge. The route takes the only clean line on that section of cliff. A cairn marks the start. Well-protected throughout, takes a good healthy rack with extra small to medium cams.                                                                                              1) 25m  (5c).  Bridge and jam up the shallow corner with some great movement. On reaching the large ledge belay on/off its far righthand side under the obvious crack. Large cam useful.                                                                                 2) 30m  (5c).  Thoughtful jamming and edge hunting all the way, with a cruxy section in the middle, leads to a roof. Belay under this on large footholds. Small to medium cams, RPs for balance.                                                                      3) 40m  (6a).   A step up to get some good gear is followed by 40m of fantastic well-protected climbing. Follow the obvious crack up to another small roof, tricky moves, gain the crack above and follow this to the top passing the last roof on its right just before topping out. Excellent pitch with multiple cruxes.
+'''163a Blackout***  95m  E5 (5c, 5c, 6a)'''                                                                                                                                                   ''K McCoey, T Neil.  9/6/2018''                                                                                                                                                                      About 20m east of the fence and just before the Bird Hide Block ab in boulders is a good spike/boulder to ab off at the cliff edge. The route takes the only clean line on that section of cliff. A cairn marks the start. Well-protected throughout, takes a good healthy rack with extra small to medium cams.                                                                                              1) 25m  (5c).  Bridge and jam up the shallow corner with some great movement. On reaching the large ledge belay on/off its far righthand side under the obvious crack. Large cam useful.                                                                                 2) 30m  (5c).  Thoughtful jamming and edge hunting all the way, with a cruxy section in the middle, leads to a roof. Belay under this on large footholds. Small to medium cams, RPs for balance.                                                                      3) 40m  (6a).   A step up to get some good gear is followed by 40m of fantastic well-protected climbing. Follow the obvious crack up to another small roof, tricky moves, gain the crack above and follow this to the top passing the last roof on its right just before topping out. Excellent pitch with multiple cruxes.
 '''To the right of the huge detached block the wall runs out into a vegetated gully.''' Scorpion takes a line up the wall just left of the gully.
@@ Line 1,472: / Line 1,474: @@
 Climbs the right-hand crack, which starts right above the belay. Abseil down as for the previous route. Climb the crack direct to the top. Slightly easier than Fired Earth, but less well protected.
-'''Superpod  50m  E7 (6c)'''                                                                                                                                                                 ''J McCune, L Brophy.   7/06/2018''                                                                                                                                            A big 50m pitch with a very tricky section of climbing through an overhang, protected by some really fiddly gear. Above this felt like hard E5 to the top, passing two large pods.
+'''Superpod  50m  E7 (6c)'''                                                                                                                                                                 ''J McCune, L Brophy.   7/06/2018''                                                                                                                                            Exact location? A big 50m pitch with a very tricky section of climbing through an overhang, protected by some really fiddly gear. Above this felt like hard E5 to the top, passing two large pods.
 '''190. Bates's Motel ** 66m E3 (5b, 5c, 5b)'''<br>
@@ Line 2,268: / Line 2,270: @@
 '''296a. Tangled Traverse*  E2 (5b, 5c)'''                                                                                                                                                            ''K Stewart,  JZ Roberts. 9/3/2025''                                                                                                                                                A two pitch traverse of the Prow, starting from The Offence and finishing at Thunderhips. Bring lots of extendable quickdraws, most of the gear is situated in the cracks between the pillars.                                                                          1) 5b. Start at the grassy niche to the side of The Offence and traverse leftwards and diagonally upwards on good holds. When the line of GBH is reached go straight up (hard move) for 2 metres and then continue traversing diagonally upwards. Once the vegetation is met (a few metres below the top of Good Morning Judge) traverse a level line through the vegetation (might be loose rock) till a large flat pedestal is reached and belay there.                                                  2)  5c.  Keep traversing a level line while passing through a blank section crossing The Embankment and Marconi. Fall into the line of Fireball and ascend this for a few metres until you reach an obvious flat hold on the left side of the groove. Use this to fall into the offwidth crack of Thunderhips and climb to the top.
-'''296b.  Magic Hour'''
+'''296b.  Magic Hour**  20m  HVS (5a)                                                                                                                                    ''M Guzik, C Whiteley.  5/5/2025'''''                                                                                                                                   Follow the clear crack line directly to the right of The Offence. A shallow crack to start before the crack continues and pressure eases with height.
 '''297. Calypso  21m HVS (5a)'''<br>

@@ Line 2,264: / Line 2,264: @@
 '''296. The Offence***  24m HVS (5a)'''<br>
 ''D Stelfox, R Lawson. 8/4/1980.''<br>
 Runs up from the left side of the grassy ledge. Climb the arête just right of The Fence using blocky holds on the right to the base of the cracks. Climb the cracks to a ledge on the right. Continue up a crack to the top of the pillar on the left, follow the crack to the top.
-'''296a.  Magic Hour'''
+'''296a. Tangled Traverse*  E2 (5b, 5c)'''                                                                                                                                                            ''K Stewart,  JZ Roberts. 9/3/2025''                                                                                                                                                A two pitch traverse of the Prow, starting from The Offence and finishing at Thunderhips. Bring lots of extendable quickdraws, most of the gear is situated in the cracks between the pillars.                                                                          1) 5b. Start at the grassy niche to the side of The Offence and traverse leftwards and diagonally upwards on good holds. When the line of GBH is reached go straight up (hard move) for 2 metres and then continue traversing diagonally upwards. Once the vegetation is met (a few metres below the top of Good Morning Judge) traverse a level line through the vegetation (might be loose rock) till a large flat pedestal is reached and belay there.                                                  2)  5c.  Keep traversing a level line while passing through a blank section crossing The Embankment and Marconi. Fall into the line of Fireball and ascend this for a few metres until you reach an obvious flat hold on the left side of the groove. Use this to fall into the offwidth crack of Thunderhips and climb to the top.
 '''297. Calypso  21m HVS (5a)'''<br>
-C Torrans, C Sheridan''.   16/10/2023''<br>
+''C Torrans,  C Sheridan.   16/10/2023''<br>
 This climb straightens out, extends and replaces Residue - a poor-quality loose HS.                                                             Make an awkward scramble up onto the grassy ledge, as for Magic Hour, to reach the base of the righthand groove. Climb the groove (no.4 cam) and short chimney to the top of the pillar. Finish up the crack in the headwall above.

@@ Line 1,471: / Line 1,471: @@
 ''E Cooper, P Nolan. 5/1994.''<br>
 Climbs the right-hand crack, which starts right above the belay. Abseil down as for the previous route. Climb the crack direct to the top. Slightly easier than Fired Earth, but less well protected.
 '''190. Bates's Motel ** 66m E3 (5b, 5c, 5b)'''<br>
@@ Line 2,426: / Line 2,428: @@
 Follow the blocky stairway of Joy Division to the big ledge. From the right hand end of the ledge go up right across a short wall to ledges below a wide crack. Continue up this to a good rest on the right. Back left up the crack/groove with a crux at a wide section with small holds in the back of the crack.
-'''The next five routes are situated around the prow area (not to be confused with the the Prow area further back) and are approached from the left by following a faint path along the top of the steep grassy slope to the start of a band of yellow sandstone. The deep corner above is Juggernaut.'''
+'''The next five routes are situated around the prow area (not to be confused with the the Prow further back) and are approached from the left by following a faint path along the top of the steep grassy slope to the start of a band of yellow sandstone. The deep corner above is Juggernaut.'''
 '''329. Moonfleet  42m HVS (5a)'''<br>

@@ Line 1,071: / Line 1,071: @@
 ) 23m (5b). Move left and up to ledges and a corner crack. Climb this and step right to ledges and up these into the dark recesses of the chimney. Climb this passing a jammed block.
-'''157. Scarecrow ** 97m E2/3 (5a, 5c, 5a)'''<br>
+'''157. Scarecrow ** 97m HVS (5a, 4c, 5a)'''<br>
-''J McKenzie, P McGrath. 27/6/1981. HVS 5a, 4c, 5a.                                                                                                              K Kilroy has climbed 2 alternatives to the original second pitch, each giving excellent climbing, worth abbing in for.''<br>
+''J McKenzie, P McGrath. 27/6/1981.                                                                                                                                       K Kilroy has climbed 2 alternatives to the original second pitch, each giving excellent climbing, worth abbing in for.''<br>
 A good varied route taking the corner (left-facing) on the right of the gully.<br>
 ) 43m (5a). Climb the groove passing a block on its left and belay in the corner.                                                                 2) 27m (4c). Climb the corner for 23m and traverse right using a horizontal crack and belay below the wide crack.<br>
 ) 27m (5a). Climb the crack above to a large jammed block and finish up the chimney with care. Big cams useful.   '''Variations''' to the second pitch:                                                                                                                                             '''(a) E2 (5b/c)'''  ''K Kilroy, R Cummings.  13/05/2018''                                                                                                                  Climb the obvious line straight up from the ledge.                                                                                                                    '''(b) E2/3 (5c)'''  ''K Kilroy, P Nolan.    13/07/2018''                                                                                                               Climb the steep crack on the right.
@@ Line 1,089: / Line 1,088: @@
 ) 42m. Climb the grassy buttress to the base of the chimney.<br>
 ) 12m. Climb the chimney to the large grassy ledge.<br>
-) 18m. Surmount the blocks on the left and continue up the chimney over more chockstones. 4) 28m Move up and right to a chimney. Climb up the outside and move into the cleft and bear left. Clamber up to the top of the cliff.
+) 18m. Surmount the blocks on the left and continue up the chimney over more chockstones.                                      4) 28m Move up and right to a chimney. Climb up the outside and move into the cleft and bear left. Clamber up to the top of the cliff.
 '''159. King Cobra  93m E1 (5a, 5a)'''<br>
@@ Line 1,135: / Line 1,134: @@
 ) 20m (5b). A perfect jamming crack leads straight up to the top.
-''' To the right of the huge detached block the wall runs out into a vegetated gully.''' Scorpion takes a line up the wall just left of the gully.
+'''163a Blackout***  95m  E5 (5c, 5c, 6a)'''                                                                                                                                                   ''K McCoey, T Neil.''                                                                                                                                                                        About 20m east of the fence and just before the Bird Hide Block ab in boulders is a good spike/boulder to ab off at the cliff edge. The route takes the only clean line on that section of cliff. A cairn marks the start. Well-protected throughout, takes a good healthy rack with extra small to medium cams.                                                                                              1) 25m  (5c).  Bridge and jam up the shallow corner with some great movement. On reaching the large ledge belay on/off its far righthand side under the obvious crack. Large cam useful.                                                                                 2) 30m  (5c).  Thoughtful jamming and edge hunting all the way, with a cruxy section in the middle, leads to a roof. Belay under this on large footholds. Small to medium cams, RPs for balance.                                                                      3) 40m  (6a).   A step up to get some good gear is followed by 40m of fantastic well-protected climbing. Follow the obvious crack up to another small roof, tricky moves, gain the crack above and follow this to the top passing the last roof on its right just before topping out. Excellent pitch with multiple cruxes.
 '''164. Scorpion *** 77m E3 (5b, 5c, 5c)'''<br>

@@ Line 579: / Line 579: @@
 '''93a Cake Walk 54m	E3/4(5a,5c)'''<br>
-''Calvin Torrans, Clare Sheridan (alt leads). 6/9/15''<br>
+''C Torrans, C Sheridan (alt leads). 6/9/15''<br>
 This route takes the crack in the left facing corner left of Toby Jug and then traverses left to finish up the fine wall left of Serem.<br>
 . Climb the crack (wide in places but with lots of good edges) and finish up on the flake/pinnacle. Step right to belay below the overhang of Toby Jug.<br>
@@ Line 727: / Line 727: @@
 From the Njold's Saga belay move left and climb the thin crack (1 point of aid) to the horizontal crack and traverse left and around the arete into the big groove (awkward). Climb the groove, sustained, crux about half way up where a good no.7 wire on the left was used as a rest point. Continue up the crack on the right.
-'''108.8 Polaris *** 45m E6 6b''' <br>C. McGovern, B.Ren 17/05/2018''<br>''An excellent long pitch with varied climbing. Start as for Lost Highway until below a cracked wall above the traverse. Make hard moves up this, passing a small overhang to reach a resting ledge. Step left and climb the wall to another ledge. Keep following the crack to a big overhang which is passed on the left. Finish easily up the long finger crack to the top.
+'''108.8 Polaris *** 45m E6 6b''' <br>C. McGovern, B. Ren 17/05/2018''<br>''An excellent long pitch with varied climbing. Start as for Lost Highway until below a cracked wall above the traverse. Make hard moves up this, passing a small overhang to reach a resting ledge. Step left and climb the wall to another ledge. Keep following the crack to a big overhang which is passed on the left. Finish easily up the long finger crack to the top.
 '''108.9 Rathlin Red * 45m E4 5c'''<br>C. McGovern. 27/06/2019.''<br>''A good route with great exposure. From the belay on top of the 5 grooves, traverse right for a few meters to below a groove. Make bold moves up to a stance below the groove. Climb the groove passing 2 more ledges and exit onto the slab on the right. Finish up this to belay on top of The Grey Man.
@@ Line 1,072: / Line 1,072: @@
 '''157. Scarecrow ** 97m E2/3 (5a, 5c, 5a)'''<br>
-''J McKenzie, P McGrath. 27/6/1981. HVS 5a, 4c, 5a.                                                                                                              K Kilroy has climbed 2 alternatives to the second pitch, each giving excellent climbing, worth abbing in for.''<br>
+''J McKenzie, P McGrath. 27/6/1981. HVS 5a, 4c, 5a.                                                                                                              K Kilroy has climbed 2 alternatives to the original second pitch, each giving excellent climbing, worth abbing in for.''<br>
 A good varied route taking the corner (left-facing) on the right of the gully.<br>
-) 43m (5a). Climb the groove passing a block on its left and belay in the corner.<br>
+) 43m (5a). Climb the groove passing a block on its left and belay in the corner.                                                                 2) 27m (4c). Climb the corner for 23m and traverse right using a horizontal crack and belay below the wide crack.<br>
 ) 27m (5c). Climb the crack in the wall right of the corner, hard to start and sustained. Belay below the wide crack.<br>
-) 27m (5a). Climb the crack above to a large jammed block and finish up the chimney with care. Big cams useful.
+) 27m (5a). Climb the crack above to a large jammed block and finish up the chimney with care. Big cams useful.   '''Variations''' to the second pitch:                                                                                                                                             '''(a) E2 (5b/c)'''  ''K Kilroy, R Cummings.  13/05/2018''                                                                                                                  Climb the obvious line straight up from the ledge.                                                                                                                    '''(b) E2/3 (5c)'''  ''K Kilroy, P Nolan.    13/07/2018''                                                                                                               Climb the steep crack on the right.
 ==The Bird Hide Block Area==