Downpatrick Head - Revision history

Iain Miller at 10:11, 5 December 2025

2025-12-05T10:11:20Z

Iain Miller: The wording was wrong on Mick's route. He sent a few picyures to clarify

2025-08-29T18:01:29Z

The wording was wrong on Mick's route. He sent a few picyures to clarify

Daveh at 19:04, 23 March 2021

2021-03-23T19:04:31Z

Daveh: 1 revision imported

2021-03-09T17:05:51Z

1 revision imported

ico>Mormon Outcrop at 06:09, 31 August 2016

2016-08-31T06:09:03Z

New page

Taken from New Climbs 1991. 

'''Doonbristy''' 42m MXS 
Start at the landward side of the ledge system at 15m on the west face. The route follows the seaward arete of the stack, mainly on the left-hand side. The stack became disconnected from the headland in 1393 and the fort on top has been isolated since then. 
1/. 18m 5a/b Climb up right-wards over an interesting overhang (on good holds) to gain a shallow groove in a band of lighter coloured rock. Climb this to an excellent ledge on the arete. 
2/. 24m 5a/b Climb onto a projecting ledge above the stance and gain a much smaller projecting ledge above. A short wall leads to a good ledge and easier (but loose) ground leading to the top. 
M. Fowler, N. Duggan, S. Sustad May 1990. 

Intended to repeat the above route but ended taking this line to the summit of Dún Briste sea stack

'''Chaos Theory''' 42m XS

There is a huge non tidal ledge system at base (approx 10m above the sea) of the west face.

1: 18m 4b From the seaward end of the walkable ledge make a couple of moves up to the grim looking overhang. After a couple of ups and downs hand traverse left above the void to the sanctuary of a large non tidal ledge. Climb up and over the steps above and crawl through the birded gap above.

2: 24m 5a/b At the far left of the huge ledge climb the well protected groove with a hard move onto the ledge system above. Run it out forever (8mish) to a small crack in suspect rock above. Climb grooves and ledge systems above to finish up a superb layback corner and awful chimney above.

Iain Miller, Paulina Kaniszewska 28/08/16

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-Taken from New Climbs 1991.
+The stack became disconnected from the headland in 1393 and the fort on top has been isolated since then.
 '''Doonbristy'''   42m   MXS<br>
@@ Line 8: / Line 6: @@
 /. 18m 5a/b Climb up right-wards over an interesting overhang (on good holds) to gain a shallow groove in a band of lighter coloured rock. Climb this to an excellent ledge on the arete.<br>
 /. 24m 5a/b Climb onto a projecting ledge above the stance and gain a much smaller projecting ledge above. A short wall leads to a good ledge and easier (but loose) ground leading to the top.
 '''Chaos Theory'''   42m   XS<br>''Iain Miller, Paulina Kaniszewska 28/08/16''<br>There is a huge non tidal ledge system at base (approx 10m above the sea) of the west face.<br>1: 18m 4b From the seaward end of the walkable ledge make a couple of moves up to the grim looking overhang. After a couple of ups and downs hand traverse left above the void to the sanctuary of a large non tidal ledge. Climb up and over the steps above and crawl through the birded gap above.<br>2: 24m 5a/b At the far left of the huge ledge climb the well protected groove with a hard move onto the ledge system above. Run it out forever (8mish) to a small crack in suspect rock above. Climb grooves and ledge systems above to finish up a superb layback corner and awful chimney above.
 <br />

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 Taken from New Climbs 1991.
 '''Doonbristy'''   42m   MXS<br>
 ''M. Fowler, N. Duggan, S. Sustad May 1990.''<br>
-Start at the landward side of the ledge system at 15m on the west face. The route follows the seaward arete of the stack, mainly on the left-hand side. The stack became disconnected from the headland in 1393 and the fort on top has been isolated since then.<br>
+Start at the landward side of the ledge system at 15m on the west face. The route follows the landward arete of the stack, mainly on the left-hand side. <br>
 /. 18m 5a/b Climb up right-wards over an interesting overhang (on good holds) to gain a shallow groove in a band of lighter coloured rock. Climb this to an excellent ledge on the arete.<br>
-/. 24m 5a/b Climb onto a projecting ledge above the stance and gain a much smaller projecting ledge above. A short wall leads to a good ledge and easier (but loose) ground leading to the top.<br><br>''Intended to repeat the above route but ended taking this line to the summit of Dún Briste sea stack''
+/. 24m 5a/b Climb onto a projecting ledge above the stance and gain a much smaller projecting ledge above. A short wall leads to a good ledge and easier (but loose) ground leading to the top.
 '''Chaos Theory'''   42m   XS<br>''Iain Miller, Paulina Kaniszewska 28/08/16''<br>There is a huge non tidal ledge system at base (approx 10m above the sea) of the west face.<br>1: 18m 4b From the seaward end of the walkable ledge make a couple of moves up to the grim looking overhang. After a couple of ups and downs hand traverse left above the void to the sanctuary of a large non tidal ledge. Climb up and over the steps above and crawl through the birded gap above.<br>2: 24m 5a/b At the far left of the huge ledge climb the well protected groove with a hard move onto the ledge system above. Run it out forever (8mish) to a small crack in suspect rock above. Climb grooves and ledge systems above to finish up a superb layback corner and awful chimney above.
 <br />

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-Taken from New Climbs 1991.<br>
+Taken from New Climbs 1991.
 '''Doonbristy'''   42m   MXS<br>
 Start at the landward side of the ledge system at 15m on the west face. The route follows the seaward arete of the stack, mainly on the left-hand side. The stack became disconnected from the headland in 1393 and the fort on top has been isolated since then.<br>
 /. 18m 5a/b Climb up right-wards over an interesting overhang (on good holds) to gain a shallow groove in a band of lighter coloured rock. Climb this to an excellent ledge on the arete.<br>
-/. 24m 5a/b Climb onto a projecting ledge above the stance and gain a much smaller projecting ledge above. A short wall leads to a good ledge and easier (but loose) ground leading to the top.<br>
+/. 24m 5a/b Climb onto a projecting ledge above the stance and gain a much smaller projecting ledge above. A short wall leads to a good ledge and easier (but loose) ground leading to the top.<br><br>''Intended to repeat the above route but ended taking this line to the summit of Dún Briste sea stack''
-Intended to repeat the above route but ended taking this line to the summit of Dún Briste sea stack
+'''Chaos Theory'''   42m   XS<br>''Iain Miller, Paulina Kaniszewska 28/08/16''<br>There is a huge non tidal ledge system at base (approx 10m above the sea) of the west face.<br>1: 18m 4b From the seaward end of the walkable ledge make a couple of moves up to the grim looking overhang. After a couple of ups and downs hand traverse left above the void to the sanctuary of a large non tidal ledge. Climb up and over the steps above and crawl through the birded gap above.<br>2: 24m 5a/b At the far left of the huge ledge climb the well protected groove with a hard move onto the ledge system above. Run it out forever (8mish) to a small crack in suspect rock above. Climb grooves and ledge systems above to finish up a superb layback corner and awful chimney above.
-'''Chaos Theory'''   42m   XS
+<br />

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