Doolin - Revision history

Barry watts: /* Northern End */

2025-11-29T19:38:48Z

Northern End

Barry watts: /* Northern End */

2025-10-29T17:12:30Z

Northern End

Barry watts: /* Northern End */

2025-10-29T17:08:06Z

Northern End

Barry watts: /* Northern End */

2022-10-03T18:10:14Z

Northern End

Barry watts: /* Northern End */

2022-10-03T15:00:45Z

Northern End

Barry watts: /* Northern end */

2022-10-03T15:00:15Z

Northern end

Barry watts: /* Northern end */

2022-10-03T14:53:09Z

Northern end

Barry watts: /* Northern end */

2022-09-28T18:26:10Z

Northern end

Barry watts: /* Northern end */

2022-09-18T17:37:05Z

Northern end

Barry watts: /* Northern end */

2022-09-18T17:34:23Z

Northern end

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 Caution is recommended when descending as the rock is usually damp and greasy and the large blocks near its base somewhat loose. At low tide it is possible to traverse the base of the cliff and to gain exit or entry at the northern end.
 [[File:Doolin SeaCliffs.jpg|1000px|center]]
 The rock is limestone but dark in colour and somewhat brittle and loose in places. Protection is good to adequate. Due to its sheltered aspect and poor drainage the rock does not dry out quickly and remains out of condition for long periods. This is quite an extensive cliff which has seen little development and no routes have been repeated to date. The  routes are described from left to right as you face the cliff.
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 The following routes are at the southern end of the crag. These can be accessed from the north end of the crag an hour either side of high tide, or alternatively by abseil or the descent.<br>
-[[File:Doolin_S.jpg|500px|center]]<br>
+[[File:Doolin_S.jpg|500px|center]]'''THE GREAT LOBSTER PLOT''' ***	30m	E6 6b/c<br>
 G. Smith, M. Crook, 1993.<br>
 Start 50m north of the descent chimney.  The obvious thin crack left of The Great Crack of Doolin, moving through a roof at half height. Make a desperate move into the groove and climb to a rest. The thin crack above goes on forever.
 <span style="color:green">'''THE GREAT CRACK OF DOOLIN''' 	40m	E4 6a,5c<br>
 A Wainright, G. Smith (alternate leads), 1993.<br>
 Start 50m north of the descent chimney.The obvious wide crack/chimney is gained by a traverse. The mostly tidal start is reached by abseiling to a small ledge in the groove around right from the crack, but can be started off the boulders via a few tricky moves.<br>
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 Updated 21/7/11
 </span>
 '''BLACK PRINCE''' 	30m	E1 5a<br>
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 An unnamed E2(5c) corner was climbed in this area by M. Crook and G. Smith (1993). No description available.
 '''The next route takes the face just right of the descent chimney.'''
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 Climb directly up from the top of the block.<br>
 P. Daly, P. McGrath, 1980.
 '''WINGER''' 	25m	HVS 5b<br>
 P. McGrath, 1986.<br>
 Right of One Wing Bandit there are two vertical cracks leading to an overhang and groove. Climb the left crack to the overhang, traverse left and gain the groove above with difficulty. Climb easily diagonally right to the top.
 '''K KORNER''' 	25m	VS 4c<br>
@@ Line 97: / Line 85: @@
 '''Kampala''' 		VS 4c<br>F Cox, B Watts, J Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, 31/7/04.<br>Climb the obvious corner half way along the North facing wall of the zawn, a tricky start with tenous laybacking for 5m to reach a good ledge and finish, often damp but good nevertheless
-'''Simplicity''' 		Diff<br>F Cox [solo] 31/7/04.<br>Climb the South facing wall of the zawn by a series of ramps and ledges.
+'''Simplicity''' 		Diff<br>F Cox (solo) 31/7/04.<br>Climb the South facing wall of the zawn by a series of ramps and ledges.
 '''That's the shot!''' 		E1 5b<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>A strenuous technical corner, this is the next square cut corner NE of the zawn, climb the thin and strenuous corner crack to a small footledge, have a rest and continue, protection just about adequate.

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 ==Northern End==
-These routes are in a series of small zawns and fingers of rock extending into the sea at the northern most end of the DSC, there is a distinctive erratic boulder perched on the edge of one of the fingers, starting from North to South there is a boulder filled cove with an impressive 18m wall above the cove, the remaining routes have been done in or around the zawns and corners to the North. This area is half way between Ailladie and Doolin, so you can approach and park as you would for the Doolin bouldering area at Lackglass. This is at the end of the lane which starts opposite the Aran View House in Doolin. At the end of the lane park considerately towards farmers and other climbers, go through the gate and walk for 5 minutes towards the coast and then turn right and north for another 10 minutes to follow the coast to reach it. The climbs are short mostly 12m but provide some variety and the area is very secluded. All the climbs are approachable at low to two third tide, but in rough seas this area is a no go.
+These routes are in a series of small zawns and fingers of rock extending into the sea at the northern most end of the DSC, there is a distinctive erratic boulder perched on the edge of one of the fingers, starting from South to North there is a boulder filled cove with an impressive 18m wall above the cove, the remaining routes have been done in or around zawns and corners to the North. This area is half way between Ailladie and Doolin but best to approach and park as you would for the Doolin bouldering area at Lackglass. This is at the end of the lane which starts opposite the Aran View House in Doolin. At the end of the lane park considerately towards farmers and other climbers, go through the gate and walk for 5 minutes towards the coast and then turn right and North for another 10 minutes to follow the coast to reach it. The climbs are short mostly 12m but provide some variety and the area is very secluded. All the climbs are approachable at low to two third tide, but in rough seas this area is a no go.
 [[File:Doolin N topo.jpg|center|thumb]]
 [[File:Soldier Ant.jpg|center|thumb]]

@@ Line 99: / Line 99: @@
 '''Simplicity''' 		Diff<br>F Cox [solo] 31/7/04.<br>Climb the South facing wall of the zawn by a series of ramps and ledges.
-'''That's the shot!''' 		E1 5b<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>A strenuous technical corner, this is the next square cut corner East from the zawn, climb the thin and strenuous corner crack to a small footledge, have a rest and continue, protection just about adequate.
+'''That's the shot!''' 		E1 5b<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>A strenuous technical corner, this is the next square cut corner NE of the zawn, climb the thin and strenuous corner crack to a small footledge, have a rest and continue, protection just about adequate.
 The integrity of the next two routes is uncertain and a big lump of detached limestone is now gone.

@@ Line 101: / Line 101: @@
 '''That's the shot!''' 		E1 5b<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>A strenuous technical corner, this is the next square cut corner East from the zawn, climb the thin and strenuous corner crack to a small footledge, have a rest and continue, protection just about adequate.
-The integrity of the next two routes is uncertain and a big lump of dethatched limestone is now gone.
+The integrity of the next two routes is uncertain and a big lump of detached limestone is now gone.
-'''Savage cabbage''' 		HVS 4c<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>Scramble down the back of the zawn, easier if tall, shorties may want to abseil, walk/squeeze around the back of the huge separated block (now gone), climb the next square cut corner to the South on sparse protection to a ledge. The holds get much smaller so climb smoothly through the difficulties [crux] and don’t fall off!
+'''Savage cabbage''' 		HVS 4c<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>Scramble down the back of the zawn, easier if tall, shorties may want to abseil, walk/squeeze around the back of the huge separated block (now gone), climb the next square cut corner to the South on sparse protection to a ledge. The holds get much smaller so climb smoothly through the difficulties (crux) and don’t fall off!
-'''Dying for food''' 		VS 4b<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>In the North facing wall of the zawn pleasant fist crack with good protection leads to a steep but positive finish, varied climbing.
+'''Dying for food''' 		VS 4b<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>In the North facing wall of the zawn take the pleasant fist crack with good protection leads to a steep but positive finish, varied climbing.

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 [[File:Doolin N topo.jpg|center|thumb]]
 [[File:Soldier Ant.jpg|center|thumb]]
 '''Soldier Ant''' 	20m	HVS 5b<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>Interesting climbing, On the North facing wall of the cove, there is a distinct crack and groove system on the RHS with an overhanging start, start off the boulder (now gone so might be harder now) and pull positively over to a ledge, continue up the corner above to exit over a small overhang well protected

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 ==Northern end==
 These routes are in a series of small zawns and fingers of rock extending into the sea at the northern most end of the DSC, there is a distinctive erratic boulder perched on the edge of one of the fingers, starting from North to South there is a boulder filled cove with an impressive 18m wall above the cove, the remaining routes have been done in or around the zawns and corners to the North. This area is half way between Ailladie and Doolin, so you can approach and park as you would for the Doolin bouldering area at Lackglass. This is at the end of the lane which starts opposite the Aran View House in Doolin. At the end of the lane park considerately towards farmers and other climbers, go through the gate and walk for 5 minutes towards the coast and then turn right and north for another 10 minutes to follow the coast to reach it. The climbs are short mostly 12m but provide some variety and the area is very secluded. All the climbs are approachable at low to two third tide, but in rough seas this area is a no go.
 '''Soldier Ant''' 	20m	HVS 5b<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>Interesting climbing, On the North facing wall of the cove, there is a distinct crack and groove system on the RHS with an overhanging start, start off the boulder and pull positively over to a ledge, continue up the corner above to exit over a small overhang well protected
 '''The next 8 routes require an abseil approach, at low tide it is possible to walk around out of the zawn where routes 7 and 8 are.''' The routes are listed from right to left as you face the cliff.
 '''Tradtastic''' 		VS 4c<br>F Cox J Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, G Quain, 31/7/.04.<br>Climb the rightwards trending crack line right of the prominent corner to a ledge, finish on small holds.
 '''Mini me''' 		HS<br>F Cox, J Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, G Quain, 31/7/04.<br>Take the crack 1m left of the true corner.
 '''Sprockit''' 		VS 4c<br>F Cox, J Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, G Quain, 31/7/04.<br>Climb the corner for 4m, and exit left into a crackline on the left hand wall.
 '''Kampala''' 		VS 4c<br>F Cox, B Watts, J Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, 31/7/04.<br>Climb the obvious corner half way along the North facing wall of the zawn, a tricky start with tenous laybacking for 5m to reach a good ledge and finish, often damp but good nevertheless
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 '''Simplicity''' 		Diff<br>F Cox [solo] 31/7/04.<br>Climb the South facing wall of the zawn by a series of ramps and ledges.
-'''That's the shot!''' 		E1 5b<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>A strenuous technical corner, this is the next square cut corner Eest from the zawn, climb the thin and strenuous corner crack to a small footledge, have a rest and continue, protection just about adequate.
+'''That's the shot!''' 		E1 5b<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>A strenuous technical corner, this is the next square cut corner East from the zawn, climb the thin and strenuous corner crack to a small footledge, have a rest and continue, protection just about adequate.
-'''Savage cabbage''' 		HVS 4c<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>Scramble down the back of the zawn, easier if tall, shorties may want to abseil, walk/squeeze around the back of the huge separated block, climb the next square cut corner on sparse protection to a ledge. The holds get much smaller so climb smoothly through the difficulties [crux] and don’t fall off!
+'''Savage cabbage''' 		HVS 4c<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>Scramble down the back of the zawn, easier if tall, shorties may want to abseil, walk/squeeze around the back of the huge separated block (now gone), climb the next square cut corner to the South on sparse protection to a ledge. The holds get much smaller so climb smoothly through the difficulties [crux] and don’t fall off!
-'''Dying for food''' 		VS 4b<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>A pleasant fist crack with good protection leads to a steep but positive finish, varied climbing.
+'''Dying for food''' 		VS 4b<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>In the North facing wall of the zawn pleasant fist crack with good protection leads to a steep but positive finish, varied climbing.

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:37, 18 September 2022
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	'''Simplicity''' Diff<br>F Cox [solo] 31/7/04.<br>Climb the South facing wall of the zawn by a series of ramps and ledges.		'''Simplicity''' Diff<br>F Cox [solo] 31/7/04.<br>Climb the South facing wall of the zawn by a series of ramps and ledges.

−	'''That's the shot!''' E1 5b<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>A strenuous technical corner, this is the next square cut corner ~~West~~ from the zawn, climb the thin and strenuous corner crack to a small footledge, have a rest and continue, protection just about adequate.	+	'''That's the shot!''' E1 5b<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>A strenuous technical corner, this is the next square cut corner Eest from the zawn, climb the thin and strenuous corner crack to a small footledge, have a rest and continue, protection just about adequate.

@@ Line 83: / Line 83: @@
 These routes are in a series of small zawns and fingers of rock extending into the sea at the northern most end of the DSC, there is a distinctive erratic boulder perched on the edge of one of the fingers, starting from East to West there is a boulder filled cove with an impressive 18m wall above the cove, the remaining routes have been done in or around the zawns and corners. This area is half way between Ailladie and Doolin, so you can approach and park as you would for the Doolin bouldering area at Lackglass. This is at the end of the lane which starts opposite the Aran View House in Doolin. At the end of the lane park considerately towards farmers and other climbers, go through the gate and walk for 5 minutes towards the coast and then turn right and north for another 10 minutes to follow the coast to reach it. The climbs are short mostly 12m but provide some variety and the area is very secluded. All the climbs are approachable at low to two third tide, but in rough seas this area is a no go.
-'''Soldier Ant''' 	20m	HVS 5b<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>Interesting climbing, On the East wall of the cove, there is a distinct crack and groove system on the RHS with an overhanging start, start off the boulder and pull positively over to a ledge, continue up the corner above to exit over a small overhang well protected
+'''Soldier Ant''' 	20m	HVS 5b<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>Interesting climbing, On the North facing wall of the cove, there is a distinct crack and groove system on the RHS with an overhanging start, start off the boulder and pull positively over to a ledge, continue up the corner above to exit over a small overhang well protected
 '''The next 8 routes require an abseil approach, at low tide it is possible to walk around out of the zawn where routes 7 and 8 are.''' The routes are listed from right to left.
@@ Line 97: / Line 97: @@
-'''Kampala''' 		VS 4c<br>F Cox, B Watts, J Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, 31/7/04.<br>Climb the obvious corner half way along the East facing wall of the zawn, a tricky start with tenous laybacking for 5m to reach a good ledge and finish, often damp but good nevertheless
+'''Kampala''' 		VS 4c<br>F Cox, B Watts, J Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, 31/7/04.<br>Climb the obvious corner half way along the North facing wall of the zawn, a tricky start with tenous laybacking for 5m to reach a good ledge and finish, often damp but good nevertheless
+'''Simplicity''' 		Diff<br>F Cox [solo] 31/7/04.<br>Climb the South facing wall of the zawn by a series of ramps and ledges.
 '''That's the shot!''' 		E1 5b<br>F Cox, B Watts, 31/7/04.<br>A strenuous technical corner, this is the next square cut corner West from the zawn, climb the thin and strenuous corner crack to a small footledge, have a rest and continue, protection just about adequate.