Com an Lochaigh - Revision history

Lochlanngallagh: /* Upper Tier */ correcting an error in climb height

2021-11-17T15:36:38Z

Upper Tier: correcting an error in climb height

Lochlanngallagh: /* Upper Tier */ Updated the grade after looking through some notes

2021-11-17T15:32:22Z

Upper Tier: Updated the grade after looking through some notes

Lochlanngallagh: Added a topo photo with more to come

2021-11-15T14:22:06Z

Added a topo photo with more to come

Lochlanngallagh: Added new routes from summer climbing adventure

2021-11-15T14:04:24Z

Added new routes from summer climbing adventure

Daveh at 17:24, 29 March 2021

2021-03-29T17:24:49Z

Lochlanngallagh: Changing the placenames to the Irish

2021-03-21T17:30:34Z

Changing the placenames to the Irish

Lochlanngallagh: Lochlanngallagh moved page Com a Lochaigh to Com an Lochaigh: Missing an 'n' in the spelling

2021-03-21T15:59:25Z

Lochlanngallagh moved page Com a Lochaigh to Com an Lochaigh: Missing an 'n' in the spelling

Daveh: 1 revision imported

2021-03-09T17:05:49Z

1 revision imported

ico>Richard at 13:45, 21 March 2016

2016-03-21T13:45:00Z

New page

This valley is situated south of the car park for the popular pilgrim's path up to Mount Brandon. Sheet 70 of the OS map series.

Heading west from Dingle take the exit north at the Milltown roundabout. Turn right off the main road at Baile an Lochaigh (signs for a pet farm) and park at the end of the road at Q429082. Please ask at the farm for permission to enter the valley. Follow the track into the valley until it ends at the river. The crag is visible about 500m away on the left. It's roughly half an hour from the car.

The crag is of good sandstone with fantastic friction. There's a light "crust" on some parts of the crag but this doesn't pose much of a problem to climbers. There are two tiers to the crag. The following routes are located on the lower tier, which is characterised by being footed by some massive fallen blocks and a large square patch of ivy on its left hand side. There is a tiny stone wall coming from the centre of the crag to a boulder at its base. The first route starts left of this wall, the rest from the right. Descend to the right (looking out from the top of the crag).

'''Tús Nua, E2 5c, 12m'''

''R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 03/03/2013''

The obvious crack in the centre of the crag, offering brilliant climbing. Start below a hanging groove and head straight up, following the crack through overhangs. Continue to the top using the crack on the blunt arete. Sustained, steep, technical and well protected.

'''An Balla Beag, HVS 5a, 12m'''

''R. Creagh, J. Eldred, 02/11/2015''

Essentially a direct start to Cuimilt. Carefully cross over the small wall into the hole below the steep groove. Climb the groove until it's possible to swing around to the slab on the right. Continue straight up and follow cracks leftwards to the top.

'''Cuimilt, VS 4c, 10m'''

''R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 03/03/2013''

Start above the hole with the blackthorn tree, using the big boulder to get established in the hand crack (or by starting up the wall if you don't mind the hole below the crag). Take the left trending line along the cracks.

'''An Tine, E2 5b, 12m'''

''R. Creagh, E. Kennedy, 18/03/2016''

This route starts on the right side of the crag. Access the base by climbing through a small cave from the right end of the crag. The line is the obvious thin crack that starts down in a deep hole. Try to avoid stepping back behind you to save your arms. It lets up eventually.

@@ Line 26: / Line 26: @@
 Farthest right crack before you have to start scrambling. Avoiding loose flake at bottom, climb up crack with sketchy top out to the right.
-'''Naoi Méar, HS, 8m'''<br>
+'''Naoi Méar, HS, 14m'''<br>
 ''P. McFadden, 5/2021''<br>
 Climb follows series of cracks that go under two rocky arêtes situated near the top. Stand on grassy ledges to put in very bad gear and some 'crucial' micros.

@@ Line 26: / Line 26: @@
 Farthest right crack before you have to start scrambling. Avoiding loose flake at bottom, climb up crack with sketchy top out to the right.
-'''Naoi Méar'''<br>
+'''Naoi Méar, HS, 8m'''<br>
 ''P. McFadden, 5/2021''<br>
 Climb follows series of cracks that go under two rocky arêtes situated near the top. Stand on grassy ledges to put in very bad gear and some 'crucial' micros.

@@ Line 2: / Line 2: @@
 Heading west from Dingle take the exit north at the Milltown roundabout. Turn right off the main road at Baile an Lochaigh&nbsp;(signs for a pet farm) and park at the end of the road at Q429082. Please ask at the farm for permission to enter the valley. Follow the track into the valley until it ends at the river.
-<display_map zoom="12" type=terrain>52.209620669139056, -10.2738653552230481~Com an Lochaigh</display_map>
+<display_map zoom="12" type="terrain">52.209620669139056, -10.2738653552230481~Com an Lochaigh</display_map>
 ==An tEarrach Thiar==
 This crag is visible directly ahead at the end of the road, however crossing the river here will result in wet boots. A better place to cross is located 200m upstream by hoping between some boulders. The crag is not a uniform wall of rock, it is instead a series of short disconnected walls.
-<display_map zoom="15" type=satellite>52.210395738624214, -10.27016145143779~An tEarrach Thiar</display_map>
+<display_map zoom="15" type="satellite">52.210395738624214, -10.27016145143779~An tEarrach Thiar</display_map>
 ===Lower Tier===
@@ Line 32: / Line 32: @@
 ==An tEarrach There==
 The crag is visible about 500m away on the left. It's roughly half an hour from the car. Located at the slope leading to the crag is an abandoned house with a wooden roof frame. There are two tiers to the crag.
-<display_map zoom="15" type=satellite>52.21461763739943, -10.267495788779184~An tEarrach There</display_map>
+<display_map zoom="15" type="satellite">52.21461763739943, -10.267495788779184~An tEarrach There</display_map>
 ===Lower Tier===
@@ Line 63: / Line 63: @@
 This is the upper tier with many vertical cracks seen when topping out the lower tier. Named after a rescued lamb. Climbs are listed left to right as seen in the topo below.
+[[File:Alphonse.png|thumb|Left route is Mo Chéad Uair and the right route is Tarrtháil Alphonse]]
 '''Mo Chéad Uair, HS, 8m'''<br>
 ''C. Belton, P. McFadden, 5/2021''<br>

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-This valley is situated&nbsp;south of the car park for the popular pilgrim's path up to Cnoc Bréanainn. Sheet 70 of the OS map series.
+This valley is situated&nbsp;south of the car park for the popular pilgrim's path up to Cnoc Bréanainn. Sheet 70 of the OS map series. There are multiple crags in the valley and much potential for a patient climber willing to go adventuring. The crags are of good old red sandstone with fantastic friction. There's a light "crust" on some parts of the crags but this doesn't pose much of a problem to climbers. The river has gravel banks which are salmon spawning so extra care should be taking to not disturb that habitat.
-Heading west from Dingle take the exit north at the Milltown roundabout. Turn right off the main road at Baile an Lochaigh&nbsp;(signs for a pet farm) and park at the end of the road at Q429082. Please ask at the farm for permission to enter the valley. Follow the track into the valley until it ends at the river. The crag is visible about 500m away on the left. It's roughly half an hour from the car.
+Heading west from Dingle take the exit north at the Milltown roundabout. Turn right off the main road at Baile an Lochaigh&nbsp;(signs for a pet farm) and park at the end of the road at Q429082. Please ask at the farm for permission to enter the valley. Follow the track into the valley until it ends at the river.
-The crag is of good sandstone with fantastic friction. There's a light "crust" on some parts of the crag but this doesn't pose much of a problem to climbers. There are two tiers to the crag. The following routes are located on the lower tier, which is characterised by being footed by some massive fallen blocks and a large square patch of ivy on its left hand side. There is a tiny stone wall coming from the centre of the crag to a boulder at its base. The first route starts left of this wall, the rest&nbsp;from the right. Descend to the right (looking out from the top of the&nbsp;crag).
+==An tEarrach Thiar==
 '''Tús Nua, E2 5c, 12m'''<br>
@@ Line 20: / Line 59: @@
 ''R. Creagh, E. Kennedy, 18/03/2016'' <br>
 This route starts on the right side of the crag. Access the base by climbing through a small cave from the right end of the crag. The line is the obvious thin crack that starts down in a deep hole. Try to avoid stepping back behind you to save your arms. It lets up eventually.

@@ Line 5: / Line 5: @@
 The crag is of good sandstone with fantastic friction. There's a light "crust" on some parts of the crag but this doesn't pose much of a problem to climbers. There are two tiers to the crag. The following routes are located on the lower tier, which is characterised by being footed by some massive fallen blocks and a large square patch of ivy on its left hand side. There is a tiny stone wall coming from the centre of the crag to a boulder at its base. The first route starts left of this wall, the rest&nbsp;from the right. Descend to the right (looking out from the top of the&nbsp;crag).
-'''Tús Nua, E2 5c, 12m'''
+'''Tús Nua, E2 5c, 12m'''<br>
+''R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 03/03/2013''<br>
 The obvious crack in the centre of the crag, offering brilliant climbing. Start below a hanging groove and head straight up, following the crack through overhangs. Continue to the top using the crack on&nbsp;the blunt arete. Sustained, steep, technical&nbsp;and well protected.
-'''An Balla Beag, HVS 5a, 12m'''
+'''An Balla Beag, HVS 5a, 12m'''<br>
+''R. Creagh, J. Eldred, 02/11/2015''<br>
 Essentially a direct start to Cuimilt.&nbsp;Carefully cross over the small wall into the hole below&nbsp;the steep groove. Climb the groove&nbsp;until it's possible to swing around to the slab on the right. Continue straight up and follow cracks leftwards&nbsp;to the top.
-'''Cuimilt, VS 4c, 10m'''
+'''Cuimilt, VS 4c, 10m'''<br>
+''R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 03/03/2013''<br>
 Start above the hole with the blackthorn tree, using the big&nbsp;boulder&nbsp;to get established in the hand crack (or by starting up the wall if you don't mind the hole below the crag). Take the left trending line along the cracks.
-'''An Tine, E2 5b, 12m'''
+'''An Tine, E2 5b, 12m''' <br>
+''R. Creagh, E. Kennedy, 18/03/2016'' <br>
 This route starts on the right side of the crag. Access the base by climbing through a small cave from the right end of the crag. The line is the obvious thin crack that starts down in a deep hole. Try to avoid stepping back behind you to save your arms. It lets up eventually.

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:30, 21 March 2021
Line 1:		Line 1:
−	This valley is situated south of the car park for the popular pilgrim's path up to ~~Mount Brandon~~. Sheet 70 of the OS map series.	+	This valley is situated south of the car park for the popular pilgrim's path up to Cnoc Bréanainn. Sheet 70 of the OS map series.

	Heading west from Dingle take the exit north at the Milltown roundabout. Turn right off the main road at Baile an Lochaigh (signs for a pet farm) and park at the end of the road at Q429082. Please ask at the farm for permission to enter the valley. Follow the track into the valley until it ends at the river. The crag is visible about 500m away on the left. It's roughly half an hour from the car.		Heading west from Dingle take the exit north at the Milltown roundabout. Turn right off the main road at Baile an Lochaigh (signs for a pet farm) and park at the end of the road at Q429082. Please ask at the farm for permission to enter the valley. Follow the track into the valley until it ends at the river. The crag is visible about 500m away on the left. It's roughly half an hour from the car.

← Older revision	Revision as of 15:59, 21 March 2021
(No difference)

← Older revision	Revision as of 17:05, 9 March 2021
(No difference)