Clogherhead - Revision history

Germoss: added 2 routes

2025-11-28T11:03:08Z

added 2 routes

Barry watts at 13:11, 4 October 2025

2025-10-04T13:11:00Z

Barry watts at 12:59, 4 October 2025

2025-10-04T12:59:25Z

Barry watts at 12:57, 4 October 2025

2025-10-04T12:57:33Z

Barry watts at 12:54, 4 October 2025

2025-10-04T12:54:04Z

Barry watts at 12:51, 4 October 2025

2025-10-04T12:51:03Z

Barry watts at 12:49, 4 October 2025

2025-10-04T12:49:15Z

Barry watts at 11:11, 3 October 2025

2025-10-03T11:11:50Z

Barry watts at 10:59, 3 October 2025

2025-10-03T10:59:54Z

Barry watts at 10:55, 3 October 2025

2025-10-03T10:55:47Z

@@ Line 54: / Line 54: @@
 C. McGovern, G. Moss 31/12/24.
 '''No country for old men''' HVS5a
@@ Line 60: / Line 64: @@
 S. Daly, G. Moss 18/6/25.
 '''Fiacail Forais''' V. Diff
-Start 2m further L below and L of an obvious hanging rock tooth 3 meters above. Climb to a thread anchor around a flat block.
+Start below and L of an obvious hanging rock tooth 3 meters above. Climb to a thread anchor around a flat block.
 G. Moss 19/3/25.

@@ Line 13: / Line 13: @@
 [[File:CLOGHERTOP2-768x474.jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]
 [[File:Cloghertop3-696x1024.jpg|center|thumb|441x441px]]
-'''Winchy winchy Spider.''' VS4c
+'''Winchy winchy Spider''' VS4c
 The R hand rib is the broadest one. From the top of the rib cross a gap and climb the short head-wall near the R edge.  Belay well back.   S.Daly. G.Moss. 23/6/25
-'''No Flies on Me.''' HS4b
+'''No Flies on Me''' HS4b
 The rib just L of above is the shortest one. From the top of the rib step across R and move up over a gap to climb the short head-wall near its centre.
@@ Line 23: / Line 23: @@
 S.Daly, G.Moss 23/6/25
-'''Babóg na Bealtaine.''' V.D.
+'''Babóg na Bealtaine''' V.D
 There are two shallow chimneys on the buttress. This climb follows the R-hand one.
@@ Line 29: / Line 29: @@
 G. Moss 15/05/25
-'''Walk into my parlour'''. VS4c.
+'''Walk into my parlour''' VS4c
 The rib immediately L of BnaB.
@@ Line 35: / Line 35: @@
 S. Daly, G. Moss 18/6/25.
-'''Web of Intrigue'''. HVS5a.
+'''Web of Intrigue''' HVS5a
 The L-hand rib.
@@ Line 43: / Line 43: @@
 '''<big>THE MAIN BUTTRESS, R-hand side.</big>'''  Descend via the grassy slope and rocks on the L (facing out) or, more easily, abseil. It is possible to scramble down from the bottom of the fence and traverse around to the foot of the R-hand side of the buttress but the lower rocks can be greasy after a high tide and in such case an abseil approach is preferable (go through a gap in the fence at the warning sign and follow a narrow path down to locate a suitable abseil point).
 [[File:Cloghertop4-1536x982.jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]
-'''Auld Lang Syne.'''  V. Diff.
+'''Auld Lang Syne''' V. Diff
 The obvious crack on the R edge of the buttress. Climb the crack and move steeply up  L, on biscuit coloured rock, at the top
@@ Line 49: / Line 49: @@
 C. McGovern, G. Moss 31/12/24.
-'''Ring in the New.''' Severe.
+'''Ring in the New''' Severe
 The shallow corner immediately L of above. Spaced protection.
@@ Line 55: / Line 55: @@
 C. McGovern, G. Moss 31/12/24.
-'''No country for old men.''' HVS5a.
+'''No country for old men''' HVS5a
 m L of Ring in the New. A steep start leads to sustained climbing.
@@ Line 61: / Line 61: @@
 S. Daly, G. Moss 18/6/25.
-'''Fiacail Forais''' V. Diff.
+'''Fiacail Forais''' V. Diff
 Start 2m further L below and L of an obvious hanging rock tooth 3 meters above. Climb to a thread anchor around a flat block.
@@ Line 67: / Line 67: @@
 G. Moss 19/3/25.
-'''Lú Lámh Fháda'''. V.Diff
+'''Lú Lámh Fháda''' V.Diff
 Start  just  L of Fiacail Forais below the L edge. Follow the edge to a thread anchor around a flat block.
@@ Line 73: / Line 73: @@
 G. Moss 19/3/25.
-'''Habemus Papam'''. Severe
+'''Habemus Papam''' Severe
 Start at the bottom R of the deep dark recess just L of LLF. Climb the narrow ramp on the R side of the recess, difficulties increasing with height.
@@ Line 79: / Line 79: @@
 G. Moss 8/5/25.
 [[File:Cloghertop5-577x1024.jpg|center|thumb|532x532px]]
-'''Dubh Dorcha''' V. Diff.
+'''Dubh Dorcha''' V. Diff
 Start immediately L of HP. Climb straight up to a block belay.
@@ Line 85: / Line 85: @@
 G. Moss 18/4/25.
-'''Tír na nÓg'''. HVS5a
+'''Tír na nÓg''' HVS5a
 Start at the bottom L of the dark recess. Move up a short subsidiary slab until it is possible to pull across L to gain the bottom of the steep, narrow slab. Follow this, with interest, to the top.
@@ Line 98: / Line 98: @@
 C. McGovern, G. Moss 4/5/25
+[[File:Cloghertop6-577x1024.jpg|center|thumb]]
-'''Alternative Arete'''. VS4c .
+'''Alternative Arete''' VS4c
 Abseil down the obvious shallow chimney 4m S of the dark recess and move 2m R along a ledge above the high tide mark. Climb on good holds to a large ledge. Climb the steep arete on the R.
 S. Daly, G. Moss 18/6/25
+[[File:Cloghertop7-577x1024.jpg|center|thumb|532x532px]]
-'''Trasna na dTonnta.''' V. diff.
+'''Trasna na dTonnta''' V. Diff
 Abseil as for above to the foot of the shallow chimney with a small overhang at 4m. Climb the chimney, the overhang providing the crux.
@@ Line 114: / Line 114: @@
 Approach. Follow the path from the car par for just under 10 minutes, to a section of wooden fencing on the L, topped by barbed wire. Cross here and go down, veering L, over steep grass and rock to where there are two obvious, steep, conical slabs. The most southerly of the two has a rusty bolted lower off on top but we could find no record of an ascent on either the wiki or UKC, so the slab may have been top-roped. The slabs and climbs on this section are described from L to R, moving back N.
+[[File:Cloghertop8-576x1024.jpg|center|thumb|533x533px]]
-'''Time nor Tide'''. E1 5b
+'''Time nor Tide''' E1 5b
 m L of the bolted slab there is a short, steep, wide slab. This climb follows a line just R of the L edge.
 S. Daly, G. Moss. 16/7/25
+[[File:Cloghertop9-577x1024.jpg|center|thumb|532x532px]]
-'''Seóltaí Geala'''. M Severe.
+'''Seóltaí Geala''' M Severe.
 The crack running up the L side of the bolted slab. Start from a sloping ledge below the slab, low to half-tide only. The crux being the last couple of moves. Most likely climbed before. First recorded ascent
 G. Moss, S. Daly 16/7/25
+[[File:Cloghertop10-768x640.jpg|center|thumb]]
-'''Fumata Bianca.'''  V. Diff.
+'''Fumata Bianca''' V. Diff.
 Climb the shallow corner between the two conical slabs.
 G. Moss. 8/5/25.
+[[File:Cloghertop11-577x1024.jpg|center|thumb]]
 '''Lá Breithe''' V. Diff. Climb the seaward face of the pointed buttress 15m N of the conical slabs.
 G. Moss, S. Daly 16/7/25

@@ Line 77: / Line 77: @@
 Start at the bottom R of the deep dark recess just L of LLF. Climb the narrow ramp on the R side of the recess, difficulties increasing with height.
 G. Moss 8/5/25.
+[[File:Cloghertop5-577x1024.jpg|center|thumb|532x532px]]
 '''Dubh Dorcha''' V. Diff.
 Start immediately L of HP. Climb straight up to a block belay.

@@ Line 40: / Line 40: @@
 S. Daly, G.Moss 18/6/25
+[[File:Cloghertop3a.jpg|center|thumb|699x699px]]
 '''<big>THE MAIN BUTTRESS, R-hand side.</big>'''  Descend via the grassy slope and rocks on the L (facing out) or, more easily, abseil. It is possible to scramble down from the bottom of the fence and traverse around to the foot of the R-hand side of the buttress but the lower rocks can be greasy after a high tide and in such case an abseil approach is preferable (go through a gap in the fence at the warning sign and follow a narrow path down to locate a suitable abseil point).
+[[File:Cloghertop4-1536x982.jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]
 '''Auld Lang Syne.'''  V. Diff.
 The obvious crack on the R edge of the buttress. Climb the crack and move steeply up  L, on biscuit coloured rock, at the top

@@ Line 11: / Line 11: @@
 '''NORTH BUTTRESS.''' This is located about 20 m before the fence, below the foot of an earthen bank running down the hillside, and is reached by scrambling back N from near the bottom of the fence, to the foot of the buttress.  Low to half tide only.  (The slab to the R of the buttress is peppered with holds, providing pleasant scrambling), All climbs are described from R to L, facing the rock. All climbs start at sea level, best at low to middle tide.
 [[File:CLOGHERTOP2-768x474.jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]
+[[File:Cloghertop3-696x1024.jpg|center|thumb|441x441px]]
 '''Winchy winchy Spider.''' VS4c

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:51, 4 October 2025
Line 11:		Line 11:

	'''NORTH BUTTRESS.''' This is located about 20 m before the fence, below the foot of an earthen bank running down the hillside, and is reached by scrambling back N from near the bottom of the fence, to the foot of the buttress. Low to half tide only. (The slab to the R of the buttress is peppered with holds, providing pleasant scrambling), All climbs are described from R to L, facing the rock. All climbs start at sea level, best at low to middle tide.		'''NORTH BUTTRESS.''' This is located about 20 m before the fence, below the foot of an earthen bank running down the hillside, and is reached by scrambling back N from near the bottom of the fence, to the foot of the buttress. Low to half tide only. (The slab to the R of the buttress is peppered with holds, providing pleasant scrambling), All climbs are described from R to L, facing the rock. All climbs start at sea level, best at low to middle tide.
		+	[[File:CLOGHERTOP2-768x474.jpg\|center\|thumb\|530x530px]]

	'''Winchy winchy Spider.''' VS4c		'''Winchy winchy Spider.''' VS4c

@@ Line 7: / Line 7: @@
 The rock is greywacke, providing good friction when dry, but greasy when wet. E facing, it is sheltered from most winds, but should be avoided when there are strong E or S/E winds, due to high splash zones.
+[[File:Cloghertop1.jpg|center|thumb|530x530px]]
 '''APPROACH.''' From the main street in Clogherhead village take the road signposted for Port Oriel Harbour and park at the top of the large public car park directly above the Harbour.  Cross the stile in the wall and drop down to cross the wooden stile at the foot of the fence to join the grassy path. Continue along it, moving parallel to the coast, until you come to a fence (5 minutes).
 '''NORTH BUTTRESS.''' This is located about 20 m before the fence, below the foot of an earthen bank running down the hillside, and is reached by scrambling back N from near the bottom of the fence, to the foot of the buttress.  Low to half tide only.  (The slab to the R of the buttress is peppered with holds, providing pleasant scrambling), All climbs are described from R to L, facing the rock. All climbs start at sea level, best at low to middle tide.

@@ Line 4: / Line 4: @@
 '''NORTH BUTTRESS.'''            This is located about 20 m before the fence, below the foot of an earthen bank running down the hillside, and is reached by scrambling back N from near the bottom of the fence, to the foot of the buttress.  Low to half tide only.  (The slab to the R of the buttress is peppered with holds, providing pleasant scrambling), All climbs are described from R to L, facing the rock. All climbs start at sea level, best at low to middle tide.
-'''Winchy, winchy Spider.''' VS4c The R hand rib is the broadest one. From the top of the rib cross a gap and climb the short head-wall near the R edge.  Belay well back.   S.Daly. G.Moss. 23/6/25                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  '''No Flies on Me.''' HS4b The rib just L of above is the shortest one. From the top of the rib step across R and move up over a gap to climb the short head-wall near its centre. S.Daly, G.Moss 23/6/25                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                      '''Babóg na Bealtaine.''' V.D. There are two shallow chimneys on the buttress. This climb follows the R-hand one. G. Moss 15/05/25                                                                                     '''Walk into my parlour'''. VS4c. The rib immediately L of BnaB.      S. Daly, G. Moss 18/6/25.                                                                                                                                                     '''Web of Intrigue'''. HVS5a. The L-hand rib. S. Daly, G.Moss 18/6/25
+'''Winchy, winchy Spider.''' VS4c The R hand rib is the broadest one. From the top of the rib cross a gap and climb the short head-wall near the R edge.  Belay well back.   S.Daly. G.Moss. 23/6/25
 '''<big>THE MAIN BUTTRESS, R-hand side.</big>'''                                              Descend via the grassy slope and rocks on the L (facing out) or, more easily, abseil. It is possible to scramble down from the bottom of the fence and traverse around to the foot of the R-hand side of the buttress but the lower rocks can be greasy after a high tide and in such case an abseil approach is preferable (go through a gap in the fence at the warning sign and follow a narrow path down to locate a suitable abseil point).
-'''Auld Lang Syne.'''  V. Diff. The obvious crack on the R edge of the buttress. Climb the crack and move steeply up  L, on biscuit coloured rock, at the top C. McGovern, G. Moss 31/12/24.                      Ring in the New. Severe. The shallow corner immediately L of above. Spaced protection.       C. McGovern, G. Moss 31/12/24. No country for old men. HVS5a. 3m L of Ring in the New. A steep start leads to sustained climbing. S. Daly, G. Moss 18/6/25. Fiacail Forais V. Diff.  Start 2m further L below and L of an obvious hanging rock tooth 3 meters above. Climb to a thread anchor around a flat block. G. Moss 19/3/25. Lú Lámh Fháda. V.Diff  Start  just  L of Fiacail Forais below the L edge. Follow the edge to a thread anchor around a flat block. G. Moss 19/3/25. Habemus Papam. Severe  Start at the bottom R of the deep dark recess just L of LLF. Climb the narrow ramp on the R side of the recess, difficulties increasing with height. G. Moss 8/5/25.   Dubh Dorcha V. Diff. Start immediately L of HP. Climb straight up to a block belay. G. Moss 18/4/25. Tir na nÓg. HVS5a  Start at the bottom L of the dark recess. Move up a short subsidiary slab until it is possible to pull across L to gain the bottom of the steep, narrow slab. Follow this, with interest,  to the top.         S. Daly, G. Moss. 23/6/25.last couple of moves.    Most likely climbed before. First recorded ascent G. Moss, S. Daly 16/7/25.    (Sile eyed up the thin, central crack but an incoming tide foiled any attempt.)                       '''Fumata Bianca.'''  V. Diff. Climb the shallow corner between the two conical slabs.      G. Moss. 8/5/25.                                                                                                                                     '''Lá Breithe''' V. Diff. Climb the seaward face of the pointed buttress 15m N of the conical slabs. G. Moss, S. Daly 16/7/25
+'''Auld Lang Syne.'''  V. Diff.