Cape Clear Island - Revision history

Barry watts: /* Bill of Clear */

2025-11-20T13:44:43Z

Bill of Clear

Barry watts: /* Bill of Clear */

2025-11-20T13:43:13Z

Bill of Clear

Lorenzo at 11:15, 2 September 2025

2025-09-02T11:15:35Z

Lorenzo at 16:03, 28 August 2025

2025-08-28T16:03:54Z

Lorenzo at 16:01, 28 August 2025

2025-08-28T16:01:19Z

Lorenzo at 15:59, 28 August 2025

2025-08-28T15:59:12Z

Lorenzo: /* Introduction */

2025-08-27T14:47:07Z

Introduction

Lorenzo at 15:52, 18 August 2025

2025-08-18T15:52:18Z

Lorenzo at 15:42, 18 August 2025

2025-08-18T15:42:14Z

Lorenzo: /* Lollo's wall */

2025-07-29T16:51:16Z

Lollo's wall

@@ Line 7: / Line 7: @@
 ===Main wall===
-[[File:Cape Clear Main Face.jpg|thumb|The four climbs on the the Main Face, updated to June 2025]]
+[[File:Cape Clear Main Face.jpg|thumb|The four climbs on the the Main Face, updated to June 2025|alt=|center|706x706px]]
 '''Cormorants and Shags''' 35 m VS 4b (''De Bonis, G. Giunta May 2025)''
@@ Line 30: / Line 30: @@
 ===Seagull arête area===
 From the Main Face, walk backward along the north edge until you can see the obvious arête https://maps.app.goo.gl/iPpyotzjq6wfAsSQ9. Stakes to rappel are found at the top. Careful as the last meters are still a bit loose, move with care near the top.
-[[File:Cape Clear Seagull arete.jpg|thumb|The 3 routes on Seagull arete, updated to July 2025]]
+[[File:Cape Clear Seagull arete.jpg|thumb|The 3 routes on Seagull arete, updated to July 2025|alt=|center|1239x1239px]]
 '''Seagull arête''' '''**''' 25 m HVS 5a (''L. De Bonis and N. Van der Wielen July 2025)''

@@ Line 41: / Line 41: @@
 '''Skua corner''' '''***''' 25 m E3 6a ''(still awaits a proper lead, the corner section above the roof was climbed by L. De Bonis and N. Van der Wielen in July 2025)''
-To reach the start of the route, abseil past the start of “Seagull arête” into the corner and beyond the roof to a good standing ledge (low tide and/or swell required to stay dry). From the ledge climb the short arête to the roof, which is surmounted by powerful laybacking moves (crux). Enjoy a rest at the base of the corner and climb the latter up to the ledge. It's possible to link it with "Seagull arête" for one long 50 meters pitch. <br />
+To reach the start of the route, abseil past the start of “Seagull arête” into the corner and beyond the roof to a good standing ledge (low tide and/or swell required to stay dry). From the ledge climb the short arête to the roof, which is surmounted by powerful laybacking moves (crux). Enjoy a rest at the base of the corner and climb the latter up to the ledge. It's possible to link it with "Seagull arête" for one long 50 meters pitch.
 =='''Bill of Clear'''==
 At the western end of the island, the Bill of Clear is a twin pronged rocky headland of excellent sandstone, split by a blowhole cave. https://maps.app.goo.gl/bmEyhvdB4rTXXUdL6

@@ Line 29: / Line 29: @@
 ===Seagull arête area===
-From the Main Face, walk backward along the north edge until you can see the obvious arête https://maps.app.goo.gl/iPpyotzjq6wfAsSQ9. Stakes to rappel are found at the top.
+From the Main Face, walk backward along the north edge until you can see the obvious arête https://maps.app.goo.gl/iPpyotzjq6wfAsSQ9. Stakes to rappel are found at the top. Careful as the last meters are still a bit loose, move with care near the top.
 [[File:Cape Clear Seagull arete.jpg|thumb|The 3 routes on Seagull arete, updated to July 2025]]
 '''Seagull arête''' '''**''' 25 m HVS 5a (''L. De Bonis and N. Van der Wielen July 2025)''

@@ Line 26: / Line 26: @@
 '''Guillemot ***''' 40 m HVS 5a
-Start 2 meters right of “The great Auk”, just right of the deep fissure. Follow the thin crack to a ledge halfway, then continue upward just just left of the wide crack and top out trough the licheny bulge near the top.
+Start 2 meters right of “The great Auk”, just right of the deep fissure. Follow the thin crack to a ledge halfway, then continue upward just left of the wide crack and top out trough the licheny bulge near the top.
 ===Seagull arête area===

@@ Line 18: / Line 18: @@
 '''Gannet ***''' 38 m E1 5b (''De Bonis, J. McDonald June 2025)''
-From the top of the main middle ledge, move diagonally up and left on small but solid feet (delicate) toward a good crack just to the right of the blunt arete. From there, using the crack and the arete climb up (crux) to a good rest. From there climb up following a series of good holds onto the halfway ledge. Follow the shallow recess and move right of it before topping out.
+From the top of the main middle ledge, move diagonally up and left on small but solid feet (delicate) toward a good crack just to the right of the blunt arete. From there, move up to the crack (crux) and follow it to a good rest. Climb up following a series of good holds onto the halfway ledge. Follow the shallow recess and move right of it before topping out.
 '''The Great Auk ***''' 36 m VS 4c (''De Bonis, G. Giunta May 2025)''

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-=='''Lollo's wall'''==
+=='''Lollo's walls'''==
 ===Introduction===
-This 40 meters tall cliff provides some the best and longest lines of the island https://maps.app.goo.gl/3zG4E14n3BsjCXMz9. Follow google maps directions through the farm gates, the farmer is a nice guy and doesn't mind people walking through his land but ask permission if you meet him. Be mindful not to disturb the cows (dogs must be kept on a leash at all time) and keep your distance with the bull.
+This 40 meters tall cliff provides some the best and longest lines of the island https://maps.app.goo.gl/3zG4E14n3BsjCXMz9. Follow google maps directions through the farm gates, the farmer is a nice guy and doesn't mind people walking through his land but ask permission if you meet him. Be mindful not to disturb the cows and keep your distance with the bull.
 The rock (sandstone) quality in the first 30 meters is excellent, but it does decrease exponentially toward the top. For the top anchors ground stakes are used as it is impossible to create natural rock anchors, except for the leftward corner (with your back to the sea) where a large boulder provides an excellent anchor. The wall is largely a positive angle slab, altough there are plenty of vertical sections. It is wise to double up on cams as the routes are long, but all the lines can be climbed safely with just a standard rack if feeling comfortable with the grades. Climbs are listed from left to right looking into the wall (back to the sea).

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-=='''Lollo's wall''' ==
+=='''Lollo's wall'''==
 ===Introduction===
-This 40 meters tall cliff provides some the best and longest lines of the island https://maps.app.goo.gl/3zG4E14n3BsjCXMz9. Follow google maps directions through the farm gates, the farmer is a nice guy and doesn't mind people walking through his land but ask permission if you meet him. Be mindful not to disturb the cows (dogs must be kept on a leash at all time) and careful with the bull.
+This 40 meters tall cliff provides some the best and longest lines of the island https://maps.app.goo.gl/3zG4E14n3BsjCXMz9. Follow google maps directions through the farm gates, the farmer is a nice guy and doesn't mind people walking through his land but ask permission if you meet him. Be mindful not to disturb the cows (dogs must be kept on a leash at all time) and keep your distance with the bull.
-The rock (sandstone) quality in the first 30 meters is excellent, but it does decrease exponentially toward the top. For the top anchors ground stakes are used as it is impossible to create natural rock anchors, except for the leftward corner (with your back to the sea) where a large boulder provides an excellent anchor. The wall is largely a positive angle slab, altough there are plenty of vertical sections. The style is mostly crack climbing. Climbs are listed from left to right looking into the wall (back to the sea).
+The rock (sandstone) quality in the first 30 meters is excellent, but it does decrease exponentially toward the top. For the top anchors ground stakes are used as it is impossible to create natural rock anchors, except for the leftward corner (with your back to the sea) where a large boulder provides an excellent anchor. The wall is largely a positive angle slab, altough there are plenty of vertical sections. It is wise to double up on cams as the routes are long, but all the lines can be climbed safely with just a standard rack if feeling comfortable with the grades. Climbs are listed from left to right looking into the wall (back to the sea).
 ===Main wall===
@@ Line 10: / Line 10: @@
 '''Cormorants and Shags''' 35 m VS 4b (''De Bonis, G. Giunta May 2025)''
-This climb follows the left corner of the wall. The base of the climb is reached by abseiling from the large boulder found at the left end side of the wall. Once down, start from a small slopy ledge about 5 meters above the water (semi - hanging belay). Climb the slab just right of the corner, following a series of good cracks until you can move left onto the intermediate ledge (often covered in white guano). Once gained the ledge, it is wise to build an ancor and bring your second up as you will be out of view. Climb the second pitch by following the wall right of the corner, bridging left when necessary, and top out right under the abseil rope (move carefully in the last 5 meters as the rock is less than sound).
+This climb follows the left corner of the wall. The base of the climb is reached by abseiling from the large boulder found at the left end side of the wall. Once down, start from a small slopy ledge about 5-8 meters above the water (semi - hanging belay). Climb the slab just right of the corner, following a series of good cracks until you can move left onto the intermediate ledge (often covered in white guano). Once gained the ledge, it is wise to build an ancor and bring your second up as you will be out of view. Climb the second pitch by following the wall right of the corner, bridging left when necessary, and top out right under the abseil rope (move carefully in the last 5 meters as the rock is less than sound).
 '''Cormorant direct **''' 25 m HVS 5a (''De Bonis, J. McDonald June 2025)''
-Abseil from the boulder at the left end of the wall to the last of the standing ledges below (circa 10 meters above the water). From the ledge, follow the two twin cracks running above you. Plenty of good gear and excellent hand jams get you to the top section. Once there, stay right of the light grey rock and aim towards the large quartz block above, which provides solid hands to top out. A touch soft in the grade.
+Abseil from the boulder at the left end of the wall to the last of the standing ledges below (circa 10-12 meters above the water). From the ledge, follow the two twin cracks running above you. Plenty of good gear and excellent hand jams get you to the top section. Once there, stay right of the light grey rock and aim towards the large quartz block above, which provides solid hands to top out. A touch soft in the grade.
 '''Gannet ***''' 38 m E1 5b (''De Bonis, J. McDonald June 2025)''
@@ Line 24: / Line 24: @@
 The perfect starter line of the crag. From the main ledge, follow the wide hands crack that splits the middle of the wall (the first 15 meters take only size 3 cams, so either bring plenty of them or be ready to shuffle them up with you as you climb). Past the halfway ledge, climb slightly to the left as the main crack peters out, following a series of good pinches with your right hand.
-'''Guillemot ***''' 38 m HVS 5a
+'''Guillemot ***''' 40 m HVS 5a
 Start 2 meters right of “The great Auk”, just right of the deep fissure. Follow the thin crack to a ledge halfway, then continue upward just just left of the wide crack and top out trough the licheny bulge near the top.
 ===Seagull arête area===

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:51, 29 July 2025
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−	=='''Lollo's wall'''==	+	=='''Lollo's wall''' ==

	===Introduction===		===Introduction===