Black Ball Head - Revision history

Barry watts: /* Black Sabbath Wall */

2023-04-19T13:16:32Z

Black Sabbath Wall

Barry watts: /* Black Sabbath Slab */

2023-04-19T12:54:22Z

Black Sabbath Slab

Barry watts at 14:51, 18 April 2023

2023-04-18T14:51:54Z

Barry watts at 21:47, 31 March 2023

2023-03-31T21:47:57Z

Barry watts: /* Black Sabbath Wall */

2023-03-31T21:45:19Z

Black Sabbath Wall

Show changes

Barry watts: /* Ecstasy Wall */

2023-03-17T19:43:58Z

Ecstasy Wall

Shayoh: tidy

2022-12-08T21:10:00Z

tidy

Shayoh at 20:56, 8 December 2022

2022-12-08T20:56:35Z

Shayoh at 20:55, 8 December 2022

2022-12-08T20:55:20Z

Shayoh: partly formatted traverse

2022-12-08T20:47:16Z

partly formatted traverse

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:16, 19 April 2023
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	'''20 Black Ball Corner Pocket''' '''45m S''' <br />''David Craig, Sile Daly, 16/07/2017.'' <br />Climbs the obvious corner on the left side of the slab. Some suspect rock near the top.		'''20 Black Ball Corner Pocket''' '''45m S''' <br />''David Craig, Sile Daly, 16/07/2017.'' <br />Climbs the obvious corner on the left side of the slab. Some suspect rock near the top.
		+	[[File:Sweet Leaf.jpg\|center\|thumb\|500x500px]]

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:54, 19 April 2023
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	'''20 Black Ball Corner Pocket''' '''45m S''' <br />''David Craig, Sile Daly, 16/07/2017.'' <br />Climbs the obvious corner on the left side of the slab. Some suspect rock near the top.		'''20 Black Ball Corner Pocket''' '''45m S''' <br />''David Craig, Sile Daly, 16/07/2017.'' <br />Climbs the obvious corner on the left side of the slab. Some suspect rock near the top.
		+

	'''21 Sweet Leaf''' '''45m V Diff''' <br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 4/6/2018.''<br />An eliminate wall stands between '''Black Ball Corner Pocket''' and the wide gully in the centre of the cliff. This route takes a general line between both, linking slabs and short cracks. Well protected and enjoyable.		'''21 Sweet Leaf''' '''45m V Diff''' <br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 4/6/2018.''<br />An eliminate wall stands between '''Black Ball Corner Pocket''' and the wide gully in the centre of the cliff. This route takes a general line between both, linking slabs and short cracks. Well protected and enjoyable.

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:51, 18 April 2023
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	'''Approach: Park considerately around a number of pull in spots at Blackball Harbour, walk in via the commonage north of the signal tower by following a faint animal path around the bay until you reach a wire fence, strike south for the signal tower.'''		'''Approach: Park considerately around a number of pull in spots at Blackball Harbour, walk in via the commonage north of the signal tower by following a faint animal path around the bay until you reach a wire fence, strike south for the signal tower.'''
		+	[[File:Blackball Head.jpg\|center\|thumb\|600x600px]]
		+

	'''The climbing: North west and south west facing walls of generally good volcanic tufa below the signal tower.'''		'''The climbing: North west and south west facing walls of generally good volcanic tufa below the signal tower.'''

@@ Line 7: / Line 7: @@
 [[File:BB SW.jpg|600px|File:BB SW.jpg]]
-'''Black Ball Head Grand Traverse,  136m.'''<br>
+'''Black Ball Head Grand Traverse,  136m.'''<br>An enjoyable, grand tour of the Head, linking Black Sabbath and Ecstasy Walls.  Can be done in one outing or split for either wall. <br>'''Black Sabbath Wall Traverse (VDiff) 70m'''<br>''Gerry Galligan, Áine O'Reilly, 14/9/2019.''<br>1) 25m. Starts at the left-hand end of Black Sabbath wall, at the base of the adjacent headwall (Black Sabbath Slab).  At the bottom, circle around the broken white quartz vein and scramble up to a sloping ledge. Belay here.<br>2) 10m. Continue along the ledge of Black Sabbath Slab to gain the left corner of Black Sabbath Wall.  Height-wise, this is approximately midway up the wall.<br>3)  25m.  Step down then move rightwards, traversing Black Sabbath Wall to its right-hand edge.  Belay at the top of the prominent corner of Rack 'Em Up.  Good protection throughout. <br>4) 10m.  Step down and around the right-hand corner and continue along the ledge of Black Sabbath Annex Wall to finish on the wide triangular ledge at the apex of the Head.
-'''Ecstasy Wall Traverse  (HS) 66m'''<br>
+'''Ecstasy Wall Traverse  (HS) 66m'''<br>''Paddy O’Brien, Christina.Tan, (alt leads) 1/08/2021.''<br>1) 18m S.  Start on large triangular ledge at the apex of the Head (the Bow). Traverse rightwards using an undercut, and belay after crossing the line of Donkey Dharma.<br>2) 18m VD.  Continue traversing rightwards, moving slightly up and then slightly down to an awkward belay stance.<br>3) 15m HS.  At this point cease traversing and climb towards the top of the face. Move rightwards around a bulge and then up an obvious 4m corner (crux).  Exit the corner and move up, trending rightwards to a good belay ledge.<br>4) 15m D.  From the belay move up and rightwards on good holds to a good belay ledge.<br>'''Variation finish: 3a. 30m VD.''' Continue traversing right for approximately 15m before a tapering descent to easy slabs approaching the base of Ecstasy abseil /descent gully.
 ====Black Sabbath Slab====

@@ Line 75: / Line 75: @@
 '''1  The Rolling Wave 25m  VS *''' <br />''Gerry Galligan, Hugh Reynolds   3 Aug 2020''<br />1)  Mod. Starts on the large and low tidal shelf at the far left-hand end of the Head, i.e. at its apex point - the bow.  Climb the short black bow of the Head to gain the wide ledge.  Belay here.  8m.<br />2) 4c Move up the shallow, grooved-wall (crux) to finish through the notch of two horizontal fingers of rock - the forked bowsprit.  Belay here - possibly the best belay position in the world!  17m.
-'''2  U-31   27m  HVS'''<br>''Gerry Galligan, Steven Hanney  (alt leads)  1 Aug 2021'' <br>Two short minefields! <br>1) 7m Starts on the large and low tidal shelf at the far left-hand end of the Head, i.e. at its apex point - the bow.  On the ocean-side, two grooves split the short wall.  Take the left groove to gain the wide ledge. <br>2) Move up the shallow grooved-wall and left-facing corner, 2m right of 'The Rolling Wave'.  Difficult moves to gain a block-ledge (crux). Continue up the short cracked wall to finish.
+'''2  U-31 27m HVS'''<br>''Gerry Galligan, Steven Hanney  (alt leads)  1 Aug 2021'' <br>Two short minefields! <br>1) 7m Starts on the large and low tidal shelf at the far left-hand end of the Head, i.e. at its apex point - the bow.  On the ocean-side, two grooves split the short wall.  Take the left groove to gain the wide ledge. <br>2) Move up the shallow grooved-wall and left-facing corner, 2m right of 'The Rolling Wave'.  Difficult moves to gain a block-ledge (crux). Continue up the short cracked wall to finish.
 '''3 Josias'''  '''35m HVS'''<br />''Gerry Galligan, Colm Peppard   26/9/2018''<br />Left, at the end of the Head, high above the low tidal shelf, is a prominent triangular jutting block – The Prow.  This route follows a line beneath and past it.  Start on the arete, right of the tidal shelf, to gain a distinctive, wide groove.  Climb this groove directly (crux).  Continue on easier holds, passing the Prow on your lefthand-side.
@@ Line 87: / Line 87: @@
 '''6 Act of Contrition''' '''35m HS 4a'''<br />''Gerry Galligan, Cearbhall Daly  3/06/2018''<br />Takes a direct line 6m left of Dharmachakra. Starts over easy slabs and continues directly up a left-facing corner. Good protection.
-'''6a Demerera 35m VS 4c'''<br>
+'''6a Demerera 35m VS 4c'''<br>''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 26/8/2022''<br>Takes the largest left-facing corner midway along the wall.  Initial easy slabs give way to steeper ground at the base of the corner.  Move directly up the corner, negotiating overlaps on the right-hand side.
-'''6b Dolphins At Play  VS 4b'''<br>
+'''6b Dolphins At Play VS 4b'''<br>''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 26/8/2022''<br>Follows the left-facing corner 1m right of Demerera, 1m left of Dharmachakra.  Start as for Demerera.  Climb directly up the slabs and into the corner.  Good holds throughout.  Halfway up, step left around an overlap to face a short wall with a vertical crack.  Overcome same (crux).
 '''7 Dharmachakra''' '''35m  S''' <br />''Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 5/8/2017''<br />Move directly up over good ledges and holds of irregular features to yellow lichen slabs.  Follow a left-trending line around overlaps at the left-end of a blank wall to top.

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
-Blackball Head is a headland 5km from Dzogchen Beara on the way to Dursey Sound. Travelling west from Castletownbere, 2.5km west of Dzochen Beara turn left and follow a minor road 2km to harbour. Tiglin/Paddy O'Leary originally developed some routes 1km east of the signal tower which are not documented.
+'''Blackball Head is a headland 5km from Dzogchen Beara on the way to Dursey Sound. Travelling west from Castletownbere, 2.5km west of Dzochen Beara turn left and follow a minor road 2km to harbour. Tiglin/Paddy O'Leary originally developed some routes 1km east of the signal tower which are not documented.'''
-Approach:  Park considerately around a number of pull in spots at Blackball Harbour, walk in via the commonage north of the signal tower by following a faint animal path around the bay until you reach a wire fence, strike south for the signal tower.
+'''Approach:  Park considerately around a number of pull in spots at Blackball Harbour, walk in via the commonage north of the signal tower by following a faint animal path around the bay until you reach a wire fence, strike south for the signal tower.'''
-The climbing: North west and south west facing walls of generally good volcanic tufa below the signal tower.
+'''The climbing: North west and south west facing walls of generally good volcanic tufa below the signal tower.'''
 [[File:BB SW.jpg|600px|File:BB SW.jpg]]
@@ Line 25: / Line 25: @@
 ====Black Sabbath Slab====
-Approach: The inlet is Coosbunnadoonroe (Cuas Bun a'Dún Rua). To approach scramble down the ridge for 150m as far as the unusual looking volcanic rock when there is a ‘clean drop’ to your right, this is Black Sabbath Wall and Slab, abseil in to a tidal ledge. Routes are listed from left to right. North Westerly facing, On the tidal ledges after the abseil, scramble leftwards towards the huge cave on a good ledge above the high tide mark until you come to a very black, smooth, large featured, slabby face.
+'''Approach: The inlet is Coosbunnadoonroe (Cuas Bun a'Dún Rua). To approach scramble down the ridge for 150m as far as the unusual looking volcanic rock when there is a ‘clean drop’ to your right, this is Black Sabbath Wall and Slab, abseil in to a tidal ledge. Routes are listed from left to right. North Westerly facing, On the tidal ledges after the abseil, scramble leftwards towards the huge cave on a good ledge above the high tide mark until you come to a very black, smooth, large featured, slabby face.'''
 '''19 Black Sabbath''' '''20m VS 4c'''<br />''Sile Daly, David Craig, 16/07/2017.'' <br />Start at the first obvious and widest crack trending diagonally to the right. Climb this for 3m until the angle eases, then step left onto the the face and climb up vaguely leftwards through the steepest territory you can see passing through a few overlaps to the top of the slab.
@@ Line 32: / Line 32: @@
 [[File:BSW.jpg|600px|File:BSW.jpg]]
-This is the wall you abseil down
+'''This is the wall you abseil down'''
 [[File:Capture_(1).JPG|alt=|none|thumb|800x800px|Gerry Galligan on Fairies Wear Boots]]
@@ Line 61: / Line 61: @@
 ====Black Sabbath Annex Wall====
-This is the shorter wall right of the Black Sabbath Wall, towards the bow end of the Head (the crossing corner of which leads to Ecstasy Wall) two routes are recorded here to date.
+'''This is the shorter wall right of the Black Sabbath Wall, towards the bow end of the Head (the crossing corner of which leads to Ecstasy Wall) two routes are recorded here to date.'''
 [[File:6 - Black Sabbath's Recess Wall.jpeg|600px|File:6 - Black Sabbath's Recess Wall.jpeg]]
@@ Line 70: / Line 70: @@
 ====Ecstasy Wall====
-A South Westerly facing wall of well-weathered volcanic tufa offering high quality off-vertical climbing. The rock bands above the climbs are filled with ledges and jugs. Some caution is advised as these strata are a bit brittle in places. The '''central climbs/4 to 14''' start with delicate and run out sections on slabs and shelves before strenuous arm-pulling and bridging on vertical walls, steep slabs and the odd overhang in the upper sections. The rock is somewhat coarser in texture than that of Black Sabbath Wall and nearby Whiteball Head and where it is free from lichen the frictional qualities are excellent. The routes tend to be much less direct than those at other crags not usually following obvious crack lines. A series of grooves, ramps, corners, short walls and overhangs are what one can expect to encounter. The use of micro-wires is advantageous. For Ecstasy left Wall and the Headwall (which are really named Bunnadoonroe - Bun a'Dún Rua) abseil down the gully on the left (preferably using a minimum 50m rope) and traverse leftwards (looking in) over ledges and easy niches, approximately 3m-4m  above high tidal mark. All routes offer good if somewhat spaced protection and holds at times.<br />
+'''A south-westerly facing wall of well-weathered volcanic tufa offering high quality off-vertical climbing. The rock bands above the climbs are filled with ledges and jugs. Some caution is advised as these strata are a bit brittle in places. The central climbs (4 to 14) start with delicate and run out sections on slabs and shelves before strenuous arm-pulling and bridging on vertical walls, steep slabs and the odd overhang in the upper sections. The rock is somewhat coarser in texture than that of Black Sabbath Wall and nearby Whiteball Head and where it is free from lichen the frictional qualities are excellent. The routes tend to be much less direct than those at other crags not usually following obvious crack lines. A series of grooves, ramps, corners, short walls and overhangs are what one can expect to encounter. The use of micro-wires is advantageous. For Ecstasy left Wall and the Headwall (which are really named Bunnadoonroe - Bun a'Dún Rua) abseil down the gully on the left (preferably using a minimum 50m rope) and traverse leftwards (looking in) over ledges and easy niches, approximately 3m-4m  above high tidal mark. All routes offer good if somewhat spaced protection and holds at times.'''<br />
 [[File:Ecstacy left.jpg|center|frameless|491x491px]]
@@ Line 115: / Line 115: @@
 ====Blackball Headwall====
-Very enjoyable long, low grade climbing with a south westerly aspect can be found here.
+'''Very enjoyable long, low grade climbing with a south westerly aspect can be found here.'''
 '''15 Regatta Ridge''' '''70m VD''' <br />''Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 5/8/2017''<br />1. 35m Follow a line 1-3m right of the true arete.  Protection improves with height.  Belay at a ledge on the right. <br>2. 35m Continue up the arete on good holds until the rock becomes poorer.  Veer right to follow a shallow corner crack to emerge at a large terrace, Traverse right for 6m and gain the next ledge system by a vertical crack. Move left to finish.