Binnian Tors - Revision history

Daveh at 21:13, 25 March 2021

2021-03-25T21:13:46Z

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Daveh: /* North Tor */

2021-03-21T17:34:32Z

North Tor

Daveh: /* North Tor */

2021-03-21T17:32:02Z

North Tor

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Daveh: /* Jabberwock Tor */

2021-03-21T17:20:23Z

Jabberwock Tor

Daveh: /* Delta Tor */

2021-03-21T17:17:16Z

Delta Tor

Daveh: /* Gamma Tor */

2021-03-21T14:19:09Z

Gamma Tor

Daveh: /* Summit Tor */

2021-03-21T14:14:39Z

Summit Tor

Daveh: /* Beta Tor */

2021-03-21T14:12:49Z

Beta Tor

Daveh: /* Beta Tor */

2021-03-21T14:10:20Z

Beta Tor

Daveh: /* Beta Tor */

2021-03-21T14:09:24Z

Beta Tor

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 North Tor is the most satisfying of all the tors and an excellent venue for the middle grade climber. Although consisting of a large jumble of separate outcrops, it can most easily be divided into two separate blocks with one group of outcrops trending towards the Annalong Valley side, and the other trending along the spine of Binnian itself, with a prominent boulder-strewn col separating the two. For the purposes of route description the col will be used as a starting point, taking the Annalong side outcrops first and going anticlockwise.
-'''Dreadlocks Holiday''' * 35m VS 5a <br />''G. McCullough, M. McNaught. 12/9/81.'' <br />The difficulties are short lived but the crux is quite technical. Start at the col to the right of massive subsidiary slabby block. Up ramp and take the easy wide fault to finish up the prominent right trending finger crack which splits the steep slab facing Ben Crom. Variation Direct Start HS 4c Much more interesting than the original start. Start at inverted L-shaped crack on right-hand side of huge pointed flake. Using small flakes left of crack gain shelf. Up short corner and trend left to join the finger crack of Dreadlocks Holiday at large pocket. <br />A variation finish 5c (G. Murray. 31//5/97.) moves left after the crux of Dreadlocks Holiday to a pocket, then up a slab to ledge, and a thin seam just left of a pocket. J. Herron. 12/92.
+'''Dreadlocks Holiday''' * 35m VS 5a <br />''G. McCullough, M. McNaught. 12/9/81.'' <br />The difficulties are short lived but the crux is quite technical. Start at the col to the right of massive subsidiary slabby block. Up ramp and take the easy wide fault to finish up the prominent right trending finger crack which splits the steep slab facing Ben Crom. Variation Direct Start HS 4c Much more interesting than the original start. Start at inverted L-shaped crack on right-hand side of huge pointed flake. Using small flakes left of crack gain shelf. Up short corner and trend left to join the finger crack of Dreadlocks Holiday at large pocket. <br />A variation finish 5c (G. Murray. 31//5/97.) moves left after the crux of Dreadlocks Holiday to a pocket, then up a slab to ledge, and a thin seam just left of a pocket. J. Herron. 12/92. (''Note: The variation seems to be attributed to G. Murray and J Herron on different dates. Not sure which is correct'').
 '''Hombre''' * E4 6a <br />''Eddie Cooper, Dave Hamill & Jeremy Suffern 26-6-2005'' <br />Follow Dreadlocks Holiday dir. to a massive thread. Step down then right to gain a good pocket and short but absorbing traverse line leading to the arete(good 2.5 friend on right). Follow arete to top.

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 is the next tor immediately north and presents an excellent steep wall facing the Silent Valley. The right side of this wall has two distinct crack/seams and only the right-hand one is continuous giving the line of Psycho Killer. The first route is located right, around the corner on the south facing side, with a large flake below it and an obvious deep groove.
-Streets of Gold 20m E1 5b G. Murray. 6/94. Start at wide groove between large flake and wall. Back and foot up flake to reach good hold on wall. Traverse right across wall for 2m to reach groove and continue up to where it widens and on up to the top.
+'''Streets of Gold''' 20m E1 5b <br />''G. Murray. 6/94.'' <br />Start at wide groove between large flake and wall. Back and foot up flake to reach good hold on wall. Traverse right across wall for 2m to reach groove and continue up to where it widens and on up to the top.
-Near the right edge of the west wall and just right of the crack line of Psycho Killer is a little bay.
+''Near the right edge of the west wall and just right of the crack line of Psycho Killer is a little bay.''
-Uncharted Territory E6 6c ** 10m Andrew Marshall, Craig Hiller. 11/12/07(Headpoint) Start 10m up the slope from Spectre where a horizontal break leads to a flake with pockets above. Traverse along the horizontal break until the flake is reached. A hard move off the flake leads to the pockets, a little exposure and the top comes into reach.
+'''Uncharted Territory''' E6 6c ** 10m <br />''Andrew Marshall, Craig Hiller. 11/12/07(Headpoint)'' <br />Start 10m up the slope from Spectre where a horizontal break leads to a flake with pockets above. Traverse along the horizontal break until the flake is reached. A hard move off the flake leads to the pockets, a little exposure and the top comes into reach.
-Spectre ** 20m E3 5c C. Cartwright, G. Murray. 30/9/86. A fine contrasting route - strenuous at the start leads to a delicate finale. Start in the little bay below the short corner capped by a small overhang. Climb thin crack to this small overhang and gain the right-hand groove above with difficulty. Step back left to climb wall and finish by left-hand groove.
+'''Spectre''' ** 20m E3 5c <br />''C. Cartwright, G. Murray. 30/9/86.'' <br />A fine contrasting route - strenuous at the start leads to a delicate finale. Start in the little bay below the short corner capped by a small overhang. Climb thin crack to this small overhang and gain the right-hand groove above with difficulty. Step back left to climb wall and finish by left-hand groove.
-Psycho Killer ** 20m E3 6a G. Murray, C. Cartwright. 30/9/86. A varied route taking the previously mentioned right-hand continuous crack with a serious and committing start. Start at the shallow groove just left of the bay. Up the groove and crack above, finishing up pock marks in the corner above the ledge.
+'''Psycho Killer''' ** 20m E3 6a <br />''G. Murray, C. Cartwright. 30/9/86.'' <br />A varied route taking the previously mentioned right-hand continuous crack with a serious and committing start. Start at the shallow groove just left of the bay. Up the groove and crack above, finishing up pock marks in the corner above the ledge.
-We're All learning E6 6c *** 15m R. Bell, A. Marshal, R. Druce. 1/8/05(Top roped prior to ascent) The layback crack left of Psychokiller is as good as it looks. Climb the crack untill it disappears 4m from the top. Continue regardless.
+'''We're All learning''' E6 6c *** 15m <br />R. Bell, A. Marshal, R. Druce. 1/8/05(Top roped prior to ascent) <br />The layback crack left of Psychokiller is as good as it looks. Climb the crack untill it disappears 4m from the top. Continue regardless.
-The Quick and the Dead E5/6 6b ** 25m A. Marshall, S. Gordon. 9/06/06 Take the crack 2m left of 'We're All Learning' and make moves up the crack to a stance just over half height. Arrange protection and launch into a series of strenuous moves to reach the top. (Headpoint)
+'''The Quick and the Dead''' E5/6 6b ** 25m <br />''A. Marshall, S. Gordon. 9/06/06'' <br />Take the crack 2m left of 'We're All Learning' and make moves up the crack to a stance just over half height. Arrange protection and launch into a series of strenuous moves to reach the top. (Headpoint)
 The left-hand end of the wall is bounded by an easy gully.
-Leap of Faith 30m E4 6a G. Murray, M. McNaught. 6/94. Protection available but don't test it! Start about 20m right of the gully at the base of a clean groove with obvious bulge at mid-height and 2m left of grassy/green groove. Climb directly up to bulge and make a hard move to reach flake on right. Then move back into groove and climb groove to the top.
+'''Leap of Faith''' 30m E4 6a <br />''G. Murray, M. McNaught. 6/94.'' <br />Protection available but don't test it! Start about 20m right of the gully at the base of a clean groove with obvious bulge at mid-height and 2m left of grassy/green groove. Climb directly up to bulge and make a hard move to reach flake on right. Then move back into groove and climb groove to the top.
-Jabberwock * 30m HVS 4c J. Forsythe, L. Marshall, M. Popplestone. 7/6/71. A fine route with a short but bold crux. Start about 5m left of Leap of Faith at a quartz vein. Climb the vein past a large pocket and on up stepping left to a ledge below the curving crack. Proceed awkwardly using this crack and pock marks on the right wall, to gain better holds on the right. Up groove to grass ledge and finish via the obvious crack.
+'''Jabberwock''' * 30m HVS 4c<br />''J. Forsythe, L. Marshall, M. Popplestone. 7/6/71.'' <br />A fine route with a short but bold crux. Start about 5m left of Leap of Faith at a quartz vein. Climb the vein past a large pocket and on up stepping left to a ledge below the curving crack. Proceed awkwardly using this crack and pock marks on the right wall, to gain better holds on the right. Up groove to grass ledge and finish via the obvious crack.
-Kindergarten Kop 30m El 5b G. Murray, M. McNaught. 6/91. Interesting climbing with the mossy groove cleaner than it looks. Start 3m left of Jabberwock. Climb up the thin quartz vein to slanting break and on up groove to large ledge of Jabberwock. Traverse a few metres right into a mossy groove (directly above the start of Jabberwock) and move up until you can reach a crack on the left and continue to the top.
+'''Kindergarten Kop''' 30m El 5b <br />''G. Murray, M. McNaught. 6/91.''<br />Interesting climbing with the mossy groove cleaner than it looks. Start 3m left of Jabberwock. Climb up the thin quartz vein to slanting break and on up groove to large ledge of Jabberwock. Traverse a few metres right into a mossy groove (directly above the start of Jabberwock) and move up until you can reach a crack on the left and continue to the top.
-The Terminator * 25m E4 6a G. Murray, C. Cartwright. 30/9/86. Doubtful protection then a bold rounded finish. Follow the flutings on the left edge of the right wall of the gully, occasionally using the knobbed vein on the right.
+'''The Terminator''' * 25m E4 6a <br />''G. Murray, C. Cartwright. 30/9/86.'' <br />Doubtful protection then a bold rounded finish. Follow the flutings on the left edge of the right wall of the gully, occasionally using the knobbed vein on the right.
-Commando 15m VS 4c G. Murray, M. McNaught. 6/91. Start in the gully left of The Terminator. Climb the set of flakes that trend left from the lowest point available in the gully and finish straight up.
+'''Commando''' 15m VS 4c <br />''G. Murray, M. McNaught. 6/91.'' <br />Start in the gully left of The Terminator. Climb the set of flakes that trend left from the lowest point available in the gully and finish straight up.
-Sad Man's Cleft. S
+'''Sad Man's Cleft''' S<br />On the north side of the tor near the path is a usually damp right-angled chimney/corner which has been climbed
-On the north side of the tor near the path is a usually damp right-angled chimney/corner which has been climbed
+'''Invisible Hands''' 20m VS 4b<br />''I. Rea, K. Lindsay. 13/9/90.'' <br />Start 1m right of this at an obvious hand crack on the right-hand edge of the wall formed by the corner. Climb this to a big ledge. Up awkward corner at back of ledge finishing right.
-Invisible Hands 20m VS 4b I. Rea, K. Lindsay. 13/9/90. Start 1m right of this at an obvious hand crack on the right-hand edge of the wall formed by the corner. Climb this to a big ledge. Up awkward corner at back of ledge finishing right.
+'''Better Days''' * 8m E1 5c <br />''G. Murray, B. James. 5/8/95.'' <br />Climb the left-hand edge of the left-hand wall up flake and make a hard move (crux) to reach the top.
-Better Days * 8m E1 5c G. Murray, B. James. 5/8/95. Climb the left-hand edge of the left-hand wall up flake and make a hard move (crux) to reach the top.
+''The next tor to the north is easy angled and of no interest.''
 ==North Tor==

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 Lies about 350m north of the summit and its southern end is marked by a distinct wall. From this wall head down hill towards the Silent Valley with the wall on the left and turn right around the corner to find the west side overlooking the Silent Valley. Most of the routes are on this west side and they are described from right to left starting from the wall. The right-hand side of the face is split by a large left slanting grassy groove feature. To the right of this feature is a steeper buttress bounded on its right-hand side by a deep, wide groove starting 5m above the ground and about 25m left of the wall. This is Evening Groove.
-The Delta Force 12m HVS 4c G. Murray. 10/85. Climb the flake then move to right-hand groove on the small facet of rock between Evening Groove and the easy gully to the right.
+'''The Delta Force''' 12m HVS 4c<br />''G. Murray. 10/85.'' <br />Climb the flake then move to right-hand groove on the small facet of rock between Evening Groove and the easy gully to the right.
-Evening Groove 12m S 4a J. Forsythe, R. Telford. 16/9/72. The above mentioned wide groove which bounds the steeper part of the buttress on its immediate right.
+'''Evening Groove''' 12m S 4a <br />''J. Forsythe, R. Telford. 16/9/72.'' <br />The above mentioned wide groove which bounds the steeper part of the buttress on its immediate right.
-True Lies * 20m E2 5b G. Murray. 5/96. Bold after the flake on small but positive holds. Start 2m left of Evening Groove at obvious leftwards sloping crack. Up to ledge. Surmount flake and then climb the pockets on the right edge finishing up Evening Wall.
+'''True Lies''' * 20m E2 5b <br />''G. Murray. 5/96.'' <br />Bold after the flake on small but positive holds. Start 2m left of Evening Groove at obvious leftwards sloping crack. Up to ledge. Surmount flake and then climb the pockets on the right edge finishing up Evening Wall.
-Evening Wall * 25m HVS 5a First Ascent Unknown. This route gives a good fight and the crack is lined with only slightly coarse sand paper. Climb the deep, steep crack about 5m left of Evening Groove.
+'''Evening Wall''' * 25m HVS 5a <br />''First Ascent Unknown.'' <br />This route gives a good fight and the crack is lined with only slightly coarse sand paper. Climb the deep, steep crack about 5m left of Evening Groove.
 The groove in the corner 2m left of Evening Wall has been climbed at HS.
-McGuinness's Route 20m D J. McGuinness. 7/5/78. Climb the shallow black-streaked double groove 4m left of Evening Wall, finishing at a miniature col.
+'''McGuinness's Route''' 20m <br />''D J. McGuinness. 7/5/78.'' <br />Climb the shallow black-streaked double groove 4m left of Evening Wall, finishing at a miniature col.
-The wall left of McGuinness's Route is easy angled and seamed with vertical faults. These are, from right to left -
+''The wall left of McGuinness's Route is easy angled and seamed with vertical faults. These are, from right to left -''
-The Right One 15m VD J. Forsythe. 19/6/81. Start about 2m left of the right edge. Up slab to gain crack on right side of small indefinite pillar. Continue up groove from top of pinnacle.
+'''The Right One''' 15m VD<br />''J. Forsythe. 19/6/81.'' <br />Start about 2m left of the right edge. Up slab to gain crack on right side of small indefinite pillar. Continue up groove from top of pinnacle.
-Evening All 15m VD J. Forsythe. 20/6/81. The deeper groove 1m left of The Right One.
+'''Evening All''' 15m VD <br />''J. Forsythe. 20/6/81.''<br />The deeper groove 1m left of The Right One.
-No Limits 15m E2 6a G. Murray, C. Cartwright. 30/9/86. Starts about 1.5m left of Evening All and climbs the bulging wall (crux) and shallow groove.
+'''No Limits''' 15m E2 6a <br />''G. Murray, C. Cartwright. 30/9/86.''<br />Starts about 1.5m left of Evening All and climbs the bulging wall (crux) and shallow groove.
-Tooth and Nail 15m S J. Forsythe. 19/6/81. The groove 2m left of No Limits.
+'''Tooth and Nail''' 15m S <br />''J. Forsythe. 19/6/81.'' <br />The groove 2m left of No Limits.
-Snake In The Grass 15m VD J. Forsythe. 19/6/81. The grass-filled crack 2m left of Tooth and Nail.
+'''Snake In The Grass''' 15m VD <br />''J. Forsythe. 19/6/81.''<br />The grass-filled crack 2m left of Tooth and Nail.
-One Leg Samba 13m VD J. Forsythe. 7/5/78. The crack about 1m left again and just right of the blunt arete.
+'''One Leg Samba''' 13m VD<br />''J. Forsythe. 7/5/78.'' <br />The crack about 1m left again and just right of the blunt arete.
-The crag now becomes more broken but about 30m left of One Leg Samba there is a small south-facing facet.
+''The crag now becomes more broken but about 30m left of One Leg Samba there is a small south-facing facet.''
-Small Change 10m VS 4c G. Murray. 5/96. Interesting steep climbing spoilt by a dirty finish. Start at the right-hand end of this facet below large pocket. Climb flakes passing large pocket, to difficult finishing moves.
+'''Small Change''' 10m VS 4c <br />''G. Murray. 5/96.'' <br />Interesting steep climbing spoilt by a dirty finish. Start at the right-hand end of this facet below large pocket. Climb flakes passing large pocket, to difficult finishing moves.
-Lorry 10m HS 4b J. Forsythe, D. Pyper. 25/4/82. Takes the wall and short deep crack up the middle of the facet.
+'''Lorry''' 10m HS 4b <br />''J. Forsythe, D. Pyper. 25/4/82.'' <br />Takes the wall and short deep crack up the middle of the facet.
-Left of Lorry the end of the tor presents a small buttress facing west i.e. towards Silent Valley.
+''Left of Lorry the end of the tor presents a small buttress facing west i.e. towards Silent Valley.''
-Delta Arete 20m D J. Forsythe. 19/6/81. Climb the indefinite arete at the left edge of this small face up to a ledge below where the arete is better defined. Step right and up groove to top.
+'''Delta Arete''' 20m D <br />''J. Forsythe. 19/6/81.'' <br />Climb the indefinite arete at the left edge of this small face up to a ledge below where the arete is better defined. Step right and up groove to top.
-At the extreme north end of the tor is a steep wall facing North Tor and overlooking Binnian Lough. If approaching from the routes on the Silent Valley side of the crag continue on round left of Delta Arete and passing a deep crack 10m left of the wall's right-hand edge. The climbs although short are entertaining and should not be dismissed because of the sunless aspect.
+''At the extreme north end of the tor is a steep wall facing North Tor and overlooking Binnian Lough. If approaching from the routes on the Silent Valley side of the crag continue on round left of Delta Arete and passing a deep crack 10m left of the wall's right-hand edge. The climbs although short are entertaining and should not be dismissed because of the sunless aspect.''
-Cabin Fever 10m VS 5a I. Rea, K. Lindsay. 13/9/90. A committing start on positive holds leads to an awkward finish. Start at a thin vertical seam 2m left of this deep crack. Up seam to horizontal break. Step right and finish up left trending crack.
+'''Cabin Fever''' 10m VS 5a<br />''I. Rea, K. Lindsay. 13/9/90.'' <br />A committing start on positive holds leads to an awkward finish. Start at a thin vertical seam 2m left of this deep crack. Up seam to horizontal break. Step right and finish up left trending crack.
-High Country 10m HVS 5a I. Rea, K. Lindsay. 13/9/90. More in this climb than it looks. Start at base of arete 2m left of Cabin Fever. Up arete to overhang. Step delicately right and finish straight up.
+'''High Country''' 10m HVS 5a<br />''I. Rea, K. Lindsay. 13/9/90.'' <br />More in this climb than it looks. Start at base of arete 2m left of Cabin Fever. Up arete to overhang. Step delicately right and finish straight up.
-Something Else 13m S 4a K. Lindsay, I. Rea. 13/9/90. The obvious blocky arete 5m left of High Country finishing right at the top (easier on the left).
+'''Something Else''' 13m S 4a<br />''K. Lindsay, I. Rea. 13/9/90.'' <br />The obvious blocky arete 5m left of High Country finishing right at the top (easier on the left).
-The Azure 15m HVS 5a I. Rea, K. Lindsay. 13/9/90. Another route with a few thought provoking moves. Start the blunt rib 4m left of the obvious blocky arete of Something Else. Up flakes and edges to ledge below inset block. Traverse right and then directly up rib to ledge on left, finishing with a short traverse right into chimney at the top.
+'''The Azure''' 15m HVS 5a<br />''I. Rea, K. Lindsay. 13/9/90.'' <br />Another route with a few thought provoking moves. Start the blunt rib 4m left of the obvious blocky arete of Something Else. Up flakes and edges to ledge below inset block. Traverse right and then directly up rib to ledge on left, finishing with a short traverse right into chimney at the top.
 ==Jabberwock Tor==

@@ Line 242: / Line 242: @@
 Just north of Summit Tor, the only climbs are on its western side overlooking Silent Valley. The face has a smooth slab with distinctive vertical groove lines bounded by a huge undercut block on the left. The prominent corner formed between this block and the smooth slab is Sennapod Corner. The routes are described from right to left.
-Hocus Pocus 18m VD T. Crouch, K. Norrie. 16/9/72. Undistinguished twin cracks 9m right of Sennapod Corner.
+'''Hocus Pocus''' 18m VD<br />''T. Crouch, K. Norrie. 16/9/72.'' <br />Undistinguished twin cracks 9m right of Sennapod Corner.
-Western Blue 18m E1 5c I. Rea, M. Rea, K. Lindsay. 14/2/87. Start 1m left of the twin cracks at the right edge of the slab. Up pocked seam (crux is just after the start) and finish easily out left at the final bulge. Variation Direct Finish E1 (5c) At the final bulge continue straight up crack to finish. G. Murray, M. McNaught. 8/88
+'''Western Blue''' 18m E1 5c <br />''I. Rea, M. Rea, K. Lindsay. 14/2/87.'' <br />Start 1m left of the twin cracks at the right edge of the slab. Up pocked seam (crux is just after the start) and finish easily out left at the final bulge. Variation Direct Finish E1 (5c) At the final bulge continue straight up crack to finish. G. Murray, M. McNaught. 8/88
-Sennapod Corner ** 18m VD C. Nuttal. 6/72. A lovely little route, but unfortunately 'little' is the operative word. 1) 9m Climb the prominent corner at the left-hand end of the smooth slab. 2) 9m Step right and layback up the slab.
+'''Sennapod Corner''' ** 18m VD <br />''C. Nuttal. 6/72.'' <br />A lovely little route, but unfortunately 'little' is the operative word. 1) 9m Climb the prominent corner at the left-hand end of the smooth slab. 2) 9m Step right and layback up the slab.
-Seminary Gates * 18m S 4a R. Telford, J. Forsythe. 16/9/72. Pleasant, but not as good as Sennapod Corner. Climb the finger crack on the nose to the left of Sennapod Corner and take a choice of cracks to the top. Variation Bethanie 20m E1 (5b) A boulder problem start to Seminary Gates. Climb the thin groove below and right of Seminary Gates to large ledge. Using a flake gain the edge left of Sennapod Corner and continue easily to ledge and on up crack to top as for Seminary Gates. G. Murray. 1/7/95.
+'''Seminary Gates''' * 18m S 4a <br />''R. Telford, J. Forsythe. 16/9/72.'' <br />Pleasant, but not as good as Sennapod Corner. Climb the finger crack on the nose to the left of Sennapod Corner and take a choice of cracks to the top. <br />'''Variation Bethanie''' 20m E1 (5b) <br />''G. Murray. 1/7/95.''<br />A boulder problem start to Seminary Gates. Climb the thin groove below and right of Seminary Gates to large ledge. Using a flake gain the edge left of Sennapod Corner and continue easily to ledge and on up crack to top as for Seminary Gates.
-Julie 20m E1 5b R. Purvis, G. Murray. 31/5/97. Start at the base of a slab and steep headwall left of Seminary Gates. Climb slab to below obvious crack in middle of wall which is climbed passing a horizontal break.
+'''Julie''' 20m E1 5b R. Purvis, <br />''G. Murray. 31/5/97.'' <br />Start at the base of a slab and steep headwall left of Seminary Gates. Climb slab to below obvious crack in middle of wall which is climbed passing a horizontal break.
-Plundering the Spirit 20m E2 5b G. Murray (Solo). 7/91. A short solo - unprotected. Start 2m left of Julie. Up grooves at the left edge of the slab, near the corner. Then move to the left-hand side of the headwall using flakes and pockets and finishing boldly.
+'''Plundering the Spirit''' 20m E2 5b <br />''G. Murray (Solo). 7/91.'' <br />A short solo - unprotected. Start 2m left of Julie. Up grooves at the left edge of the slab, near the corner. Then move to the left-hand side of the headwall using flakes and pockets and finishing boldly.
-Small Talk 10m VS 4c G. Murray, B. James. 22/7/95. An entertaining little problem. Start below a large boulder perched on a large block forming a prominent overhang. Climb up crack direct to overhang. Climb overhang by large flake on the left and up groove to the top.
+'''Small Talk''' 10m VS 4c <br />''G. Murray, B. James. 22/7/95.'' <br />An entertaining little problem. Start below a large boulder perched on a large block forming a prominent overhang. Climb up crack direct to overhang. Climb overhang by large flake on the left and up groove to the top.
-Moth Catcher 12m VS 4c G. Murray (Solo). 5/91 This is an unidentifiable outing just right of the gap between the Gamma and Summit tors on the Carrick little side at a lump of rock left of the obvious corner. Climb niche and gain a thin groove in the slab which leads to the top.
+'''Moth Catcher''' 12m VS 4c <br />''G. Murray (Solo). 5/91'' <br />This is an unidentifiable outing just right of the gap between the Gamma and Summit tors on the Carrick little side at a lump of rock left of the obvious corner. Climb niche and gain a thin groove in the slab which leads to the top.
-Following the spine of Binnian from Gamma Tor to the North are the Back Castles. These mini-tors provide numerous boulder problems and lead towards a wall at the south end of Delta tor.
+''Following the spine of Binnian from Gamma Tor to the North are the Back Castles. These mini-tors provide numerous boulder problems and lead towards a wall at the south end of Delta tor.''

@@ Line 219: / Line 219: @@
 Summit Tor is the highest outcrop and has two rusting metal posts on its summit. The following routes are on the west side -
-Flamingos Fly 18m E3/4 6a G. Murray, B. James. 16/9/95. Start 1m left of the Mourne Wall where a line of rusted spikes run up a small left sloping groove. Climb groove to the top of flake and make hard moves to exit onto large ledge. Climb the nose of rock left of the deep crack using breaks and pockets.
+'''Flamingos Fly''' 18m E3/4 6a <br />''G. Murray, B. James. 16/9/95.'' <br />Start 1m left of the Mourne Wall where a line of rusted spikes run up a small left sloping groove. Climb groove to the top of flake and make hard moves to exit onto large ledge. Climb the nose of rock left of the deep crack using breaks and pockets.
-Troll 18m S C. Moore, I. Brown, W. Jenkins. 15/5/66. A prominent dirty rib and shallow chimney 15m left of the wall.
+'''Troll''' 18m S <br />''C. Moore, I. Brown, W. Jenkins. 15/5/66.'' <br />A prominent dirty rib and shallow chimney 15m left of the wall.
-Hokey Pokey 18m HS 4b W. Jenkins, I. Brown, C. Moore. 15/5/66. The manky slab 5m right of Troll, finishing up its shallow chimney.
+'''Hokey Pokey''' 18m HS 4b <br />''W. Jenkins, I. Brown, C. Moore. 15/5/66.'' <br />The manky slab 5m right of Troll, finishing up its shallow chimney.
-Brylcream Corner 30m VD C. Moore, I. Brown, W. Jenkins. 15/5/66. The filthy rib directly below the left-hand fence post. Start on its left and take the easiest line to the top.
+'''Brylcream Corner''' 30m VD <br />''C. Moore, I. Brown, W. Jenkins. 15/5/66.'' <br />The filthy rib directly below the left-hand fence post. Start on its left and take the easiest line to the top.
-Challenge for Youth 20m VS 4b G. Murray (Solo). 8/88. Up flakes and overlaps about 6m left of Brylcream Corner, finishing up a faint groove.
+'''Challenge for Youth''' 20m VS 4b <br />''G. Murray (Solo). 8/88.'' <br />Up flakes and overlaps about 6m left of Brylcream Corner, finishing up a faint groove.
-The Road to Mickle Seggie * 20m E2 5b G. Murray (Solo). 5/91. Start at a fang of rock which points down from the bottom of a faint groove, 2m left of Challenge for Youth. Climb up the fang and layback the groove up towards the pancakes of rock above. From these finish on up the slab to the top.
+'''The Road to Mickle Seggie''' * 20m E2 5b <br />''G. Murray (Solo). 5/91.'' <br />Start at a fang of rock which points down from the bottom of a faint groove, 2m left of Challenge for Youth. Climb up the fang and layback the groove up towards the pancakes of rock above. From these finish on up the slab to the top.
-Unlimited Edition * 20m HVS 5a M. Manson. 4/5/80. Start at a faint groove 2m left of The Road to Mickle Seggie. Climb up this and over a small overhang into another groove passing a thread. Up the groove or step right and up to finish easily on slab above.
+'''Unlimited Edition''' * 20m HVS 5a <br />''M. Manson. 4/5/80.'' <br />Start at a faint groove 2m left of The Road to Mickle Seggie. Climb up this and over a small overhang into another groove passing a thread. Up the groove or step right and up to finish easily on slab above.
-My Traitors Heart * 20m HVS 5a G. Murray (Solo). 5/91. Start 1m left of Unlimited Edition. Up the slab to the obvious flakes at 3m. Climb steeply up the flakes and up the slab to finish.
+'''My Traitors Heart''' * 20m HVS 5a <br />''G. Murray (Solo). 5/91.'' <br />Start 1m left of Unlimited Edition. Up the slab to the obvious flakes at 3m. Climb steeply up the flakes and up the slab to finish.
 ==Gamma Tor==

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 '''Dominique''' 15m HS <br />''G. Murray (Solo). 7/91.'' <br />Climb the grooves on the extreme right hand side of the slab.
-'''The east side of the summit outcrop is steep and gives some short chimney problems and four mini-routes described below. At the left-hand end of this face is -'''
+''The east side of the summit outcrop is steep and gives some short chimney problems and four mini-routes described below. At the left-hand end of this face is -''
 '''True Grit''' * 10m HVS 5a <br />''A. McQuoid, P. Douglas. 6/79.'' <br />A strenuous and sustained outing. The obvious narrow corner crack, a few metres left of the most prominent chimney.
@@ Line 165: / Line 165: @@
 '''Back Burner''' 12m E3 (6a) <br />''J.Gibson, J.McConville 2/8/09'' <br />The overhanging corner between ‘Trilogy’ and ‘The Message’ Start at the base of the corner climbing the good breaks on the left with good cams. Move to the right and through the steep exposed top section on slopers (crux)
-'''20m right of the rocky bay and a few metres right of an obvious deep crack is a prominent nose of rock with a large round scoop at half-height on the right-hand edge defining the line of the following route -'''
+''20m right of the rocky bay and a few metres right of an obvious deep crack is a prominent nose of rock with a large round scoop at half-height on the right-hand edge defining the line of the following route -''
 '''The Message''' 12m E3 5c <br />''G. Murray, A. McMullan. 18/5/95.'' <br />Climb the wall right of the nose in the corner until able to step onto the arete at small flake. Make a gymnastic move onto large scoop and continue up the wall above to easier ground.
@@ Line 191: / Line 191: @@
 ==Lower Summit Tor==
-'''This is downhill on the western side of the Summit Tor is a smaller almost hidden tor and for convenience is referred to as Lower Summit Tor. The left side of the tor forms a distinct edge bounded by a steep little wall with a flake system leading to a hanging groove (The Great Days.) However the right edge merges into the hillside and just left of the wall the worthless Nippon 18m D (J. Sloan, J. Murray. 17/5/64.) follows the vague rib. The routes are described from right to left.'''
+This is downhill on the western side of the Summit Tor is a smaller almost hidden tor and for convenience is referred to as Lower Summit Tor. The left side of the tor forms a distinct edge bounded by a steep little wall with a flake system leading to a hanging groove (The Great Days.) However the right edge merges into the hillside and just left of the wall the worthless Nippon 18m D (J. Sloan, J. Murray. 17/5/64.) follows the vague rib. The routes are described from right to left.
-The Homecoming 20m E1 5b G. Murray, M. McNaught. 19/5/89. At the right-hand end of the buttress is a wall covered in pockets and rugosities. Climb these until forced right at half height. Climb groove and slab to the top.
+'''The Homecoming''' 20m E1 5b <br />''G. Murray, M. McNaught. 19/5/89.'' <br />At the right-hand end of the buttress is a wall covered in pockets and rugosities. Climb these until forced right at half height. Climb groove and slab to the top.
-The One-eyed Money-Changer * 20m E2 5c G. Murray, T. O'Dowd. 6/92. Start about 1m left of The Homecoming below large pocket. Climb up into left-hand groove using the large pocket. Move left into curving corner and up to hanging crack and up this and groove above.
+'''The One-eyed Money-Changer''' * 20m E2 5c <br />''G. Murray, T. O'Dowd. 6/92.'' <br />Start about 1m left of The Homecoming below large pocket. Climb up into left-hand groove using the large pocket. Move left into curving corner and up to hanging crack and up this and groove above.
-Avalon Sunset 20m HVS 5b G. Murray, M. McNaught. 19/5/89. An off-putting off-width which thankfully eases quickly once committed. Start below obvious wide crack in the middle of the buttress. Climb easily up to the bulging crack. Up this (crux) to gain the groove above.
+'''Avalon Sunset''' 20m HVS 5b <br />''G. Murray, M. McNaught. 19/5/89.'' <br />An off-putting off-width which thankfully eases quickly once committed. Start below obvious wide crack in the middle of the buttress. Climb easily up to the bulging crack. Up this (crux) to gain the groove above.
-Dreams and Disappointments 20m E3 6a G. Murray, R. Purvis. 31/5/97. Start 1m left of Avalon Sunset. Climb straight up to pocketed short wall. Up this (runner in Avalon Sunset.) and slab above trending left to join the parallel pocketed line of Friction Addiction and up this to top.
+'''Dreams and Disappointments''' 20m E3 6a <br />''G. Murray, R. Purvis. 31/5/97.'' <br />Start 1m left of Avalon Sunset. Climb straight up to pocketed short wall. Up this (runner in Avalon Sunset.) and slab above trending left to join the parallel pocketed line of Friction Addiction and up this to top.
-Friction Addiction * 20m E2 5c G. Murray, M. McNaught. 19/5/89. Delightful slab climbing. Start as for Dreams and Disappointments. Climb groove and step left to large flake, pull around corner and friction up slab using pockets. Head for right-hand pair of parallel lines of pockets directly above. Climb up these pockets and pull onto slab above and continue to the top.
+'''Friction Addiction''' * 20m E2 5c <br />''G. Murray, M. McNaught. 19/5/89.'' <br />Delightful slab climbing. Start as for Dreams and Disappointments. Climb groove and step left to large flake, pull around corner and friction up slab using pockets. Head for right-hand pair of parallel lines of pockets directly above. Climb up these pockets and pull onto slab above and continue to the top.
-Monkey Business * 20m E1 5a I. Rea, M. Rea. 5/87. Protection available but a delicate and nervy finale. Start about 3m right of the left edge. Up twin-grooved fault to easier middle section. Finish up a few metres right of the left edge following pocketed seams passing an obvious scoop where a step left is made from one seam to another.
+'''Monkey Business''' * 20m E1 5a <br />''I. Rea, M. Rea. 5/87.'' <br />Protection available but a delicate and nervy finale. Start about 3m right of the left edge. Up twin-grooved fault to easier middle section. Finish up a few metres right of the left edge following pocketed seams passing an obvious scoop where a step left is made from one seam to another.
-The Great Days * 20m E2 6a G. Murray. T. O'Dowd. 6/92 Start Below the hanging groove at left edge. Climb flaky wall until an entry into the crack on edge is possible and then groove above which eases near the top.
+'''The Great Days''' * 20m E2 6a <br />''G. Murray. T. O'Dowd. 6/92'' <br />Start Below the hanging groove at left edge. Climb flaky wall until an entry into the crack on edge is possible and then groove above which eases near the top.
-'''The next three short routes are on the buttress to the left and above Lower Summit Tor. There is a spacious grass ledge, below the buttress, with a large boulder on its left-hand side. Reach this ledge by scrambling up the dirty slab left of Lower Summit Tor.'''
+''The next three short routes are on the buttress to the left and above Lower Summit Tor. There is a spacious grass ledge, below the buttress, with a large boulder on its left-hand side. Reach this ledge by scrambling up the dirty slab left of Lower Summit Tor.''
-Drop the E 12m HS 4a V. Moorhead, A. Weir. 25/5/97. Start about mid-way between two mossy streaks below a thread. Climb bulge right of thread onto a ledge. Step delicately onto slab and step right to obvious line of pockets.
+'''Drop the E''' 12m HS 4a <br />''V. Moorhead, A. Weir. 25/5/97.'' <br />Start about mid-way between two mossy streaks below a thread. Climb bulge right of thread onto a ledge. Step delicately onto slab and step right to obvious line of pockets.
-Ditka * 12m VS 4c G. Murray, T. O'Dowd. 6/92. A very pleasant introduction to the grade. Start just left of Drop the E at large pocket Climb up to flake, step left to another large flake and climb groove to top.
+'''Ditka''' * 12m VS 4c <br />''G. Murray, T. O'Dowd. 6/92.'' <br />A very pleasant introduction to the grade. Start just left of Drop the E at large pocket Climb up to flake, step left to another large flake and climb groove to top.
-Wild Swans 12m VS 4c G. Murray, T. O'Dowd. 6/92. An inferior partner to Ditka spoilt by the grassy ledge. Start 3m left of Ditka and just right of the boulder at a corner with a groove to its right. Climb corner and move into groove past horizontal break to top.
+'''Wild Swans''' 12m VS 4c <br />''G. Murray, T. O'Dowd. 6/92.'' <br />An inferior partner to Ditka spoilt by the grassy ledge. Start 3m left of Ditka and just right of the boulder at a corner with a groove to its right. Climb corner and move into groove past horizontal break to top.
 ==Summit Tor==

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 ==Beta Tor==
-'''This is just uphill from South Tor and its large slabby South Face (overlooking Little Binnian) is easily located, being a short distance to the right of the Water Commissioners Wall. The next five routes described below end on a large slabby platform below the final outcrop of the summit and descent can be made either right or left. The start of first route is found at the left edge of the slab up and left from the lowest point of the slab on a large grassy platform above a large white boulder.'''
+This is just uphill from South Tor and its large slabby South Face (overlooking Little Binnian) is easily located, being a short distance to the right of the Water Commissioners Wall. The next five routes described below end on a large slabby platform below the final outcrop of the summit and descent can be made either right or left. The start of first route is found at the left edge of the slab up and left from the lowest point of the slab on a large grassy platform above a large white boulder.
-Niche Route 52m HS 4b R. R. Johnston and Party. 22/10/47. Start in a niche formed by a huge detached triangular flake 20m. 1) 25m From the top of the flake awkwardly gain (crux) and follow the left slanting crack/groove. Follow the deeply cracked slab above. 2) 27m Up the left-hand edge of the slab and climb between flakes to the cracks above.
+'''Niche Route''' 52m HS 4b <br />''R. R. Johnston and Party. 22/10/47. <br />''Start in a niche formed by a huge detached triangular flake 20m. <br />1) 25m From the top of the flake awkwardly gain (crux) and follow the left slanting crack/groove. Follow the deeply cracked slab above. <br />2) 27m Up the left-hand edge of the slab and climb between flakes to the cracks above.
 '''Organ''' 55m VD <br />''I. Firth, J. Challenor. Circa 60.'' <br />Start just right of huge detached triangular flake below heather ledge.<br />1) 21m Up to heather ledge and layback up slabby corner (avoidable) and pull up left just under the overhang. Handy belay above the small overhang.<br />2) 34m Either up the groove on the right or the corner on the left and scrambling to finish.<br />'''Variation''' Direct Start E2 (5b. <br />''I. Rea, R. Bankhead. 31/8/96''<br />Up a deep wavy crack to an overlap. Layaway left to gain easy fault. Follow fault rightwards into corner to join Organ.