Ben Crom - Revision history

Barry watts: /* Round Gully */

2025-04-23T19:18:03Z

Round Gully

Barry watts: /* Ben Crom Bluffs */

2025-04-23T19:15:07Z

Ben Crom Bluffs

Barry watts at 18:50, 23 April 2025

2025-04-23T18:50:36Z

Barry watts: /* The Crawl Wall */

2025-04-23T18:05:38Z

The Crawl Wall

Barry watts: /* Main Face */

2025-04-23T17:51:05Z

Main Face

Barry watts: /* Round Gully */

2025-04-23T17:32:14Z

Round Gully

Barry watts: /* Summit Block */

2025-04-22T20:25:48Z

Summit Block

Barry watts: /* Summit Block */

2025-04-22T20:05:11Z

Summit Block

Barry watts: /* Womble Wall */

2025-04-18T14:52:52Z

Womble Wall

Barry watts: /* Round Gully */

2025-04-18T14:45:38Z

Round Gully

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:18, 23 April 2025
Line 94:		Line 94:

	'''Red River''' ** 50m E2 5c, 5b/c <br />''I. Rea, R. Bankhead. 17/8/96.'' <br />Start - 3m right of The Rage of Achilles, below a grey block. <br />1) 30m From the block go straight up the wall to a good resting spot on a flake, just below a sloping ledge in the prominent right facing corner. Go out left and jam and hand traverse to the end of the diagonal fault. Follow Blood Strangers and where it goes left continue on up to belay on a large sloping ledge. <br />2) 20m Up the tight corner behind the belay, step out right, then climb the prominent blocky arete with a difficult move to finish. Further right an old route Dam View takes a line in the area of broken rock just before Round Gully but seems to have disappeared under the vegetation.		'''Red River''' ** 50m E2 5c, 5b/c <br />''I. Rea, R. Bankhead. 17/8/96.'' <br />Start - 3m right of The Rage of Achilles, below a grey block. <br />1) 30m From the block go straight up the wall to a good resting spot on a flake, just below a sloping ledge in the prominent right facing corner. Go out left and jam and hand traverse to the end of the diagonal fault. Follow Blood Strangers and where it goes left continue on up to belay on a large sloping ledge. <br />2) 20m Up the tight corner behind the belay, step out right, then climb the prominent blocky arete with a difficult move to finish. Further right an old route Dam View takes a line in the area of broken rock just before Round Gully but seems to have disappeared under the vegetation.
−
−	~~'''ledge.'''~~
−
−	~~top.~~
−
−	~~''-''~~
−
−	~~flake.~~
−
−	~~easily.~~
−
−	~~<br />~~
	==Round Gully==		==Round Gully==

@@ Line 188: / Line 188: @@
 '''Cinnamon Girl''' * 15m VS 4c <br />''A. Whitcroft, P. Williamson. 28/6/86.'' <br />Right of the second major groove/crack. A faint line leads to pronounced impending crack at top. Straight up to base of this crack and then move right onto the wall on breaks.
-'''Grass Harp''' 15m VS 4c <br />''A. Whitcroft, P. Williamson. 28/6/86.'' <br />
+'''Grass Harp''' 15m VS 4c <br />''A. Whitcroft, P. Williamson. 28/6/86.'' <br />Start - at right-hand end of the face in corner below small roof. Bridge up under small roof, gain crack at its right edge. Follow crack to where a pronounced break trends left and up. Traverse along obvious incut fault and finish out left on small holds.
 '''Texaco Gasoline''' 15m HS 4b <br />''A. Whitcroft, P. Williamson. 28/6/86.'' <br />Start - on the face that forms a right angle to Womble Wall. Follow obvious crack terminating in vegetation, move to right-hand crack. Gain ledge, step left and up twin cracks to top.
@@ Line 294: / Line 293: @@
 '''Buzz''' <small>E2 5c</small>
 '''Sting''' <small>E3 5c</small>
 '''Wee Honey''' * 10m HVS 5a <br />''I. Rea, M. Rea. 17/4/87.'' <br />Short but sweet (and sustained). Follow the crack to the top.
 '''Splat''' <small>HS 4b</small>
-'''Midge''' <small>E5 6b</small>
+Follow the deep cracked groove.
 '''Left Arete''' <small>S 3c</small>
 '''The Ramp''' <small>VS 4c</small>
-'''Two Pocket Wall''' <small> E6 6b</small>
+Bumble up the ramp.
 '''Black Crack''' <small> E4 6a</small>
 '''Deluge''' 35m S 4a <br />''J. Anderson, J. Irwin. 30/7/66.'' <br />The climb takes the left-hand edge of the Summit Gully, in its lower regions, about 150m below the Main Crag. Follow a 15m slab, a 12m corner, a 6m vertical wall and a 6m hard left-hand crack.

@@ Line 255: / Line 255: @@
 '''The Linesman''' <small>E1 5c</small>
-E Cooper, 2002.
+''E Cooper, 2002.''
 '''The Referee''' <small>E2 5c</small>
 '''The Hooligan''' <small>E2 6a</small>
 '''The Refugee''' <small>VS 5a</small>
 '''The Bum''' <small>S 4a</small>
 '''Eraser''' <small>E3 6a</small>
 '''Eras-him''' <small>E2 6b</small>
 '''Buzz''' <small>E2 5c</small>

@@ Line 223: / Line 223: @@
 '''Crawl This''' 8m <small>E5 6b</small>
-''E. Cooper, A Moles, 2003.''
+''Eddie Cooper, Ali Moles, 2003.''
 At Buttress known as The Crawl Wall next to Sporting Life Buttress and 50 m down and to right of Womble Wall. Tricky top section.
@@ Line 229: / Line 229: @@
 '''Crawl That''' 8m <small>HVS 5b</small>
-E Cooper, Martin Manson, 2003.
+''Eddie Cooper, Martin Manson, 2003.''
 At Buttress known as The Crawl Wall next to Sporting Life Buttress. Follow the big flake to a horizontal traverse right to gain arête.
@@ Line 237: / Line 237: @@
 At small buttress known as The Crawl Wall. Line follows the cracked wall/corner.
-'''Crawly Wall Crawl''' <small>VS 4c</small>
+'''Crawly Wall Crawl''' 8m <small>VS 4c</small>
-'''Life''' <small>S 3c</small>
+A nice little route spilt slightly by the horrible gorse.
 '''Life in Sport''' <small>E2 6a</small>
 '''Sportin Life''' 10m VS 4c <br />''I. Rea, M. Rea. 17/4/87.'' <br />The crack and wall rising from undercut buttress. From ledge finish out left. About 30m to the right and uphill from above route is a slabby buttress with an obvious wavy finger crack.
 '''The Linesman''' <small>E1 5c</small>
 '''The Referee''' <small>E2 5c</small>

@@ Line 95: / Line 95: @@
 '''Red River''' ** 50m E2 5c, 5b/c <br />''I. Rea, R. Bankhead. 17/8/96.'' <br />Start - 3m right of The Rage of Achilles, below a grey block. <br />1) 30m From the block go straight up the wall to a good resting spot on a flake, just below a sloping ledge in the prominent right facing corner. Go out left and jam and hand traverse to the end of the diagonal fault. Follow Blood Strangers and where it goes left continue on up to belay on a large sloping ledge. <br />2) 20m Up the tight corner behind the belay, step out right, then climb the prominent blocky arete with a difficult move to finish. Further right an old route Dam View takes a line in the area of broken rock just before Round Gully but seems to have disappeared under the vegetation.
-'''Phil's Folly''' 42m VD <br />A worthwhile top pitch on small holds and friction and better than it looks. This pitch can be approached along a path/ledge from Barnstorm (see below). Start - 90m left of the main summit gully at the same altitude as the Main Face. <br />1) 18m Up the wall to the right of overhanging blocks, over these and up the wall edge on large holds. <br />2) 24m Straight up the slab into the long twin groove scoop. add comment
+'''ledge.'''
-'''At the top of Summit Gully this is obvious on the right (looking out) and is easily reached along the wide grass ledge.'''
+top.
-'''Barnstorm''' 15m VS 4c <br />''I. Rea, 17/4/87.'' <br />The fist-sized diagonal crack on the left of the main block and leading to the left edge and up to the top.
+''-''
-''Further left the path/ledge continues (care required - some loose boulders) around the summit block to where it becomes slabby and crosses the belay of Phil's Folly so giving easy access to the top, worthwhile pitch. Continue past a large flake until a massive boulder can be seen butting out from the summit slabs on the next level above the large flake. This boulder has three short problems which are -''
+flake.
-'''Boring Stories, Glory Days''' 10m HVS 5b <br />''A. Whitcroft, S. Reid, 15/9/90.'' <br />Climb the obvious thin finger crack rising from a grass ledge on top of a flake.
+easily.
-'''Forever Young''' 10m E3 6b <br />''G. Murray, R. Purvis, 12/8/96.'' <br />Climb the sharp, left edge to scoop at 2m just right of arete, move up to sloping small ledge and on up the slab more easily.
+<br />
 ==Round Gully==
@@ Line 117: / Line 114: @@
 ''Craig Hiller, Ricky Bell, 30/4/2011.''
-'''Golden Gate''' *** 40m E3 5c <br />''Ian Rea, K O'Hara.'' <br />Destined to become a classic, low in the grade. Start below a small overhang just left of Restless Eyes. Climb directly up via flakey fault/crack to ledges below a grassy depression. Up right for a few meters to flakes and to a good footledge. Traverse right and up crack to right facing corner. Up this to its top and exit left. Directly up to grass ledge and then a short wall to top. Good stake belay, though a good belay can be taken on the grass ledge.
+'''Golden Gate''' *** 40m E3 5c <br />''Ian Rea, K O'Hara,''
 '''Restless Eyes''' *** 40m E2 5b <br />''G. Murray, M. McNaught. 27/10/85.'' <br />This route takes the very prominent right facing diedre at the left-hand side of the of the wall and provides sustained technical interest all the way. Start - at a belay block below the diedre which is gained by an easy but steep and vegetated traverse left from the gully. Best to rope up. Up wall until forced right by bulge at half height, move right and up wall until able to move left back into the corner and a good ledge. Climb the corner turning a bulge on the right and then the top.
@@ Line 130: / Line 129: @@
 '''On the Verge''' 35m HVS 5b <br />''D. Stelfox, P. Mallon, R. Mallon. 3/7/94.'' <br />Start - at the lowest point of the right-hand edge of the clean wall. Climb up steeply then rightwards to small detached pinnacle. From the top of this move up corner above until forced right and the tier above can be breached. Move back left to steep headwall which is right of the distinctive corner/arete and climb this with difficulty to top (crux).
 ==Boot Jam Gully==
@@ Line 173: / Line 170: @@
 '''Jessica Rabbit''' 15m <small>HVS 4c</small>
-Clean slab just left of "the Sponge"
+''I Rea, P Holmes, E Cooper,  2003.''
 '''The Sponge''' 20m VD <br />''D. Withers, W. Withers. 8/6/74.'' <br />Start - at a grassy corner, 4m right of Wilson's Waterloo. Climb the grassy groove to a small roof and turn the overhang on the left to a ledge. Climb the crack just left of the overhang to the top.

@@ Line 23: / Line 23: @@
 '''Boring Stories, Glory Days''' <small>HVS 5b</small>
-<br />'''Phil's Folly''' <small>VD</small>
+''A Whitecroft, S Reid, 15/9/1990.''
 '''Barnstorm''' <small>VS 4c</small>
 '''Chicken Run''' <small>E3 6a</small>
 '''Pigeon Walk''' E5 6b

@@ Line 10: / Line 10: @@
 '''Oberon''' <small>VS 4c</small>
 '''Forever Young''' <small>E3 6b</small>
-'''Boring Stories, Glory Days''' <small>HVS 5b</small><br />'''Phil's Folly''' <small>VD</small>
+''G Murray, R Purvis, 12/8/1996.''
 '''Barnstorm''' <small>VS 4c</small>

← Older revision		Revision as of 14:52, 18 April 2025
Line 121:		Line 121:

	'''Someone Did''' ** 35m VS 4b <br />''A. Weir, M. Hearty. 8/90.'' <br />A great mountaineering route with excellent positions but a bit dirty. However with traffic would clean up to an absolute classic. Start - at the obvious diedre 3m right of White Heather. Up this until able to move right to the top of a pinnacle. Move on up the wall above to a ledge then right into a large corner which leads to another pinnacle and a fantastic airy finish. <br />'''Variation Saint Vitus Dance''' 35m HVS (5a <br />''A. Weir, M. Hearty. 8/90.'' <br />Up the diedre as for Someone Did to triangular roof and pull out left on good holds. Move up until it is possible to traverse right above roof to gain good ledge on '''Someone Did'''.		'''Someone Did''' ** 35m VS 4b <br />''A. Weir, M. Hearty. 8/90.'' <br />A great mountaineering route with excellent positions but a bit dirty. However with traffic would clean up to an absolute classic. Start - at the obvious diedre 3m right of White Heather. Up this until able to move right to the top of a pinnacle. Move on up the wall above to a ledge then right into a large corner which leads to another pinnacle and a fantastic airy finish. <br />'''Variation Saint Vitus Dance''' 35m HVS (5a <br />''A. Weir, M. Hearty. 8/90.'' <br />Up the diedre as for Someone Did to triangular roof and pull out left on good holds. Move up until it is possible to traverse right above roof to gain good ledge on '''Someone Did'''.
		+
		+	'''Eurus''' 30m.<small> E2 5b</small>
		+
		+	''Kevin Kilroy, Conor McNamara, 14/Aug/2024.''
		+
		+	A brilliant steep and sustained head wall with good holds. Start as for Someone Did and then continue into Saint Vitus Dance, from where it steps right (just above the wee roof) continue direct up a line of delicate flakes until a good peg can be reached on the right. Make a series of strenuous moves until stood on the heather ledge (crux). Finish direct.
		+
		+	'''Eyes Wide Shut''' 30m<small> E4 6a</small>
		+
		+	''Kevin Kilroy, Jordan Ramsey MacSweeney, 13/Sep/2024.''
		+
		+	An eliminate with some steep crimpy wall climbing protected mainly by pegs and small/micro gear.
		+
		+	Climb to the good peg on Eurus and make a crimpy traverse right to gain a small hand ledge with a wobbly jug horn (good small gear here). Climb the wall directly above on crimps and flat holds (without the resting ledge out right or the vertical crack above it) . Make an essential long reach to clip a poor knifeblade (backed up to a better peg on its left). Climb direct passed the pegs on small holds and sloping breaks until a good break comes into reach (crux). Finish up a short wide crack at the top.

	'''Refiners Fire''' 40m E3 6a <br />''G. Murray, M. Rea. 5/94.'' <br />Start - below Someone Did at the base of step and below the flake/groove at 4m. Climb boldly up wall and rib to ledge. From ledge up flake/groove and make difficult moves around bulge and on up groove to wall. Continue up wall to easier climbing and the top.		'''Refiners Fire''' 40m E3 6a <br />''G. Murray, M. Rea. 5/94.'' <br />Start - below Someone Did at the base of step and below the flake/groove at 4m. Climb boldly up wall and rib to ledge. From ledge up flake/groove and make difficult moves around bulge and on up groove to wall. Continue up wall to easier climbing and the top.