Ballykeefe Quarry - Revision history

T: /* Fear Breaga Buttress */

2026-02-03T08:53:18Z

Fear Breaga Buttress

T: /* Fear Breaga Buttress */

2026-02-03T08:52:31Z

Fear Breaga Buttress

T: /* Fear Breaga Buttress */

2026-02-03T08:51:54Z

Fear Breaga Buttress

T: /* Fear Breaga Buttress */

2026-02-03T08:50:49Z

Fear Breaga Buttress

T: /* Fear Breaga Buttress */

2026-02-03T07:45:04Z

Fear Breaga Buttress

T at 17:11, 22 November 2024

2024-11-22T17:11:01Z

Hughhennessy: /* Introduction */

2024-08-21T18:12:03Z

Introduction

FHGJDKGH: edit

2023-11-10T10:22:01Z

edit

FHGJDKGH: edit

2023-11-06T09:19:17Z

edit

Gerry Fogg at 23:03, 30 July 2021

2021-07-30T23:03:36Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:53, 3 February 2026
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← Older revision		Revision as of 08:52, 3 February 2026
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	Feel free to mark climbs		Feel free to mark climbs

← Older revision		Revision as of 08:50, 3 February 2026
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	Feel free to mark climbs		Feel free to mark climbs

← Older revision		Revision as of 07:45, 3 February 2026
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	'''Fear Breaga's Toenail''' 4m Diff<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo). 18/4/99.''<br>In the little corner to the left of the rubble-slope defining the right hand side of the buttress is a sharp-edged crack. Layback this and use a side-pull to gain poorish holds on the top edge. Pull up on these and mantelshelf (crux). No protection.		'''Fear Breaga's Toenail''' 4m Diff<br>''G. Fogg. (Solo). 18/4/99.''<br>In the little corner to the left of the rubble-slope defining the right hand side of the buttress is a sharp-edged crack. Layback this and use a side-pull to gain poorish holds on the top edge. Pull up on these and mantelshelf (crux). No protection.
		+
		+	'''Tiocfaidh ár lá''' 4b 20m Climbs up the right hand side of the buttress closest to the entrance. Fun and good rock.

	==Four-Inch Holes==		==Four-Inch Holes==

← Older revision		Revision as of 17:11, 22 November 2024
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−	'''The quarry will have concerts on two weekends in August 2024, the weekend of the 24th and the weekend of the 31st. So please don't come to climb on these weekends as you might be asked to leave. Thank you'''
−
	==Introduction==		==Introduction==

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:12, 21 August 2024
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		+	'''The quarry will have concerts on two weekends in August 2024, the weekend of the 24th and the weekend of the 31st. So please don't come to climb on these weekends as you might be asked to leave. Thank you'''
		+
	==Introduction==		==Introduction==

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:22, 10 November 2023
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	The affected routes are on the '''Left Pigs Wall''': ''Push Your Granny'', ''Dented Ego'', and ''Bishop's Nose''. The additional bolts have been added to each route's description.		The affected routes are on the '''Left Pigs Wall''': ''Push Your Granny'', ''Dented Ego'', and ''Bishop's Nose''. The additional bolts have been added to each route's description.
		+
		+	'''UPDATE 2023:'''
		+
		+	As of November 2023 the majority of the routes on the Bay of Pigs and the slabs to the right have had their bolts replaced with 316 Stainless Steel glue in bolts by a local climber and a Dublin based climber. Every effort has been made to retain the original nature of the climbing routes however, on some lines where excessive run outs with the potential of ground fall existed additional bolts have been added. In addition to rebolting the harder lines the lack of routes for total beginners was taken into account. The unprotectable slab to the left of the Crooked Crack has been equipped and a lower off anchor placed at the top. This is an ideal line for someone's first lead.
		+
		+	'''PLEASE DO NOT LEAVE MALLIONS ON ANY BOLT IF YOU NEED TO RETREAT.'''
		+
		+	If you find you cannot finish a climb the best option is to abseil in from the top using a tree anchor to retrieve your quickdraw. Please do not leave mallions on any of the bolts as this creates corrosion of the glue in. Only specialised mallions are 316L steel. The vast majority of mallions that are available in climbing stores are Zinc plated and when they are left on stainless steel bolts galvanic corrosion occurs due to the two different types of metal touching. This greatly reduces the lifespan of the bolt.

	'''IMPORTANT WARNING REGARDING BOLTS'''		'''IMPORTANT WARNING REGARDING BOLTS'''

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:19, 6 November 2023
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	'''Between Jim Crack and Crooked Crack, there is a selection of unprotected slab-climbing at about Severe.'''		'''Between Jim Crack and Crooked Crack, there is a selection of unprotected slab-climbing at about Severe.'''
		+
		+	'''Intifada''' 15m 4a (glue ins)
		+
		+	The unprotected slab immediately left of crooked crack has been equipped and goes at 4a. Perfect for a first lead.

	'''Crooked Crack''' 15m VD<br>''Tyndall. 80's.''<br>1m left of the corner. Follow crack to top. Good protection.		'''Crooked Crack''' 15m VD<br>''Tyndall. 80's.''<br>1m left of the corner. Follow crack to top. Good protection.

@@ Line 26: / Line 26: @@
 The affected routes are on the '''Left Pigs Wall''':  ''Push Your Granny'', ''Dented Ego'', and ''Bishop's Nose''.  The additional bolts have been added to each route's description.
 ==Overview, Parking and Maps==
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 '''First Corner''' 	15m	VD<br>''Tyndall. 80's.''<br>Follow arête to top.
-==Left Pigs Wall==
+==Left Pigs Wall  '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
 When Entrance Wall ends you go around the corner and there is a small length of crag before you get to the main face of Pigs Wall.
@@ Line 98: / Line 102: @@
 '''Kevin's Corner'''  15m HVS 5a<br>''K. Higgins, B. Dunne, N. Mahon. 80's<br>''Start in the corner at ground-level and follow the right-hand groove to top of pillar at 6m. From here, follow the crack 0.6m to the left to top. Good protection.
-==The Bay of Pigs==
+==The Bay of Pigs. '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
 '''There are eleven drill marks at ground-level counting from Kevin's Corner at left. These are helpful in locating the climbs.'''
@@ Line 134: / Line 138: @@
 '''Aardvaark''' F6a	15m<br>''B. Dunne, G. Fogg. 5/6/2000.''<br>Start at the 11th drill-mark (at ground-level) to cave at 6m. Follow the line of the bolts to the top, resisting the temptation to escape right.
-==Main Terrace==
+==Main Terrace  '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
 From Rosehip Crack to the Ascent Route, the face is divided horizontally by a terrace; all the climbs along this section end at the terrace, except for a couple at the far left.
@@ Line 243: / Line 247: @@
 '''Widowmaker''' 	7m	HVS 5b<br>''T. Brophy. 90's''<br>Easily up to top of boulder, then up the centre of the blank left-facing face. Protection in the horizontal parting.
-==Long Traverse Ledge==
+==Long Traverse Ledge   '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
 It is possible to traverse across from the Main Terrace to the Upper Terrace but it is not to be recommended as a slip here would be serious. It is just as simple to go along the top as ascent and descent to both terraces is easy.
@@ Line 273: / Line 277: @@
 '''White Elephant Direct''' 	24m	6a<br>''N. Mahon, B. Dunne. 80's.''<br>Start 1m right of the ash tree at 14m. Tradition demands a step up from right using the 'loose tooth' (another it hasn't come out yet). This part of the climb is about 5a but can easily be avoided. Then, move left to the tree at 7m, up through the vee and straight to the top past two noses. Reasonable protection can be found along the way.
-==Upper Terrace==
+==Upper Terrace   '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
 The climbs to the right of White Elephant Direct finish at this delightful sun-drenched terrace, with glorious views and an attractive and interesting flora.
@@ Line 309: / Line 313: @@
 '''Evening Press Reissue''' 	20m	HS<br>''N. Mahon, N. Mahon. 80's''<br>3m right of Zig and Zag. Edge of smooth wall, past small diedre (peg) at 13m to top.
-==Gromwell Bay==
+==Gromwell Bay    '''(SEE WARNING RE. BOLTS IN INTRODUCTION)'''==
 [[File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|600px|File:IMG 20200323 104821 1.jpg|link=Special:FilePath/IMG_20200323_104821_1.jpg]]