The Doons

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This limestone crag, can be reached from Manorhamilton, Dromahair or Sligo and lies to the north-east of Lough Gill. (Grid Ref. 785375, Sheet 25, Collooney).


Park at the sandpit beside the muddy lane. 200 metres walk leads to the short steep forested slope beneath the crag.


The climbs recorded below are all on the small crag clearly visible from the road. The crag behind and to the right of this was found to be very loose.


LORNA 25m VS 4c
Tim Fogg, Ian Rea 17th January 1981
The route takes the first crack/groove on the left side of the crag. Start just right of a small pinnacle. Climb the crack.


LIMESTONE LEMUR 28m HVS 5a/5b
D.Stelfox, I.Rea 17th January 1981
3 m. right of Lorna there is an obvious corner split by two overhangs. Start to the right of the corner. Climb easy rock for 3 m and step left at the first overhang. Follow the crack to the top, the crux is just below the second overhang.


SLIGO RIPPER 30m VS 4b
D.Stelfox, I.Rea. 17th January 1981
This route takes the wide crack in the first bay around the left-hand corner of the crag, about 6m. right of Limestone Lemur. Climb crack to a large detached block, pull over this carefully, easier ground to the top.


The next route takes a line near the extreme right end of the crag.


MANKY MONKEY 24m VS 4c
I.Ryan, P.Neary
Start - 4 m left of an ivy creeper, and takes the line up to the deep flakey chimney. Climb moving slightly left towards chimney and exit. Belay 7m back around boulder.