Talk:Glendalough

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Eden Wall

Previously top roped by S.R.Young Lead on the day on sight by T.O'Neill --T. O'Neill

Cracks On The Garden Of Eden

Best done as a single pitch with the direct start *** HVS 5a --Stephen McMullan

Very very good, "old school" climbing. Gym-bred sport climbing types might not enjoy the thugishness. It's amazing! - Richard.

Stray Dog

Definitely bold...good protection at your feet on the crux...and maybe a fall into the void! --Conor Murphy

Stray Dog.jpg

An easy one for those with a longish reach. I imagine it would be quite hard otherwise - Richard.

Georgia Variation

Much cleaner to start up Geogia and traverse back into corner abve tree --T. O'Neill

Caroline

Climbed this last Saturday 19th July, good climbing with a fairly necky feel to it. Placed all gear on lead but had top roped it previously. --David Craig

Holly Tree Shunt

take care if u try this in the wet - the top is not really v.d more like vs and on-sight cleaning for holds makes it a wee bit scary... --e

Prelude Nightmare

Fantastic views, loads of protection, joyful climbing ! --Conor Murphy

Prelude.jpg

Frank Winder has said that he did not take part in the first ascent of Prelude. He did Nightmare OK --Sé O Hanlon

Scimitar Crack

Deserves a star or two in its current state. Very popular. --Stephen McMullan

Sarcophagus

this is a demanding route id reccomend if your just after starting hvs WAIT a while --tony ryan

Agreed. The crux pitch is top of the grade. Technically the most difficult move is low down on this pitch however concentration is required approaching and going past the famous spike to make sure you avail of sound gear placements. The bridging becomes precarious and quite strenuous. Once the arete is gained move up a wide crack and belay immediately on a small ledge on a set of excellent tapering cracks. They are much better than anything in the corner and keeps the ropes running pretty straight for the second etc. --Stephen McMullan

One of the best routes in the country? Not that I've climbed anywhere near half of them but this is certainly as good as anything I've done anywhere, the third pitch especially. Agree about the lower belay - Richard.

The third pitch is definitely the crux. You save a lot of energy if you're confident at bridging. But the route is overrated in my opinion. The climbing is sustained and technical, but it lacks atmosphere and exposure. It's just a sequence of ledges separated by short steep steps in an enclosed setting. Whereas scimitar crack, the other classic HVS of the main crag, provides a much steeper and more exposed direct line up the heart of the main face from which you can always look down to the ground and see your boots and bags. - Ste

Graceland

Nice climbing with a well protected throughout and the crux near the top. Will be down graded to E3 6a in the new guide, one to have a go at if you are starting out at this grade. --Dave Craig

Setanta

Only one peg remaining at overlap ----T. O'Neill

Instead of stepping right to the arete, just go direct. Felt tricky. Possibly E2 5c? Worth doing. Deserves at least two stars --Stephen McMullan

Nice climb. Peg is gone. Kevin K - May 2016

Elbow Room

Repeated it there yesterday. Very worthwhile. If it was cleaned up a bit then possible candidate for a star. Watch out for a loose block high and right just below the top. --Stephen McMullan

Mica Wall

Very vegetated at the moment. --Stephen McMullan

Aisling Arete

A bit bold at the start and a bit thuggish at the top. Top of the grade. --Stephen McMullan

Lethe

Onsighted this in light rain a few years ago, step foot and hand jamming gets you over the crux, protection is supportive but you have to commit, I think this was HVS years ago and it was down graded, another Forest Wall classic. --Barry Watts

Barry, how can you "onsight" any route given that you are half blind? Maybe "onblinded" might be a better discriptionfor you to use! Good effort though. --Jams

Lethe Direct

First free ascent by Paddy O Leary. Date unknown. He did not know at the time that this was the FFA. --Se O'Hanlon

Contraband

Worrying!! --Dave Craig

Rock Island Line

The biggest sand bag on the crag. Suspect some rock must have fallen off as Ive tried it twice and found it desperate, plus no gear to speak off. Several other much better climbers then me have also come to the same impasse. Or is it really E5/6 with thin gear and put down as E2 for a joke? --James O Reilly

Most of the climbing is VS, one hard well protected move through the roof. The above commenter must have been lost. --Dave Craig

Pine Tree Cracks

The pine tree in the crack on pitch 1 blew away during the winter 2008/9 and this will increase the grade to HS or VS. It may be possible toenter the crack from lower down instead of traversing into it. --Sé O Hanlon

Climbed it since and it is harder to get into the crack from the right without the welcoming refuge on the tree but the grade stays the same.

There's a certain way of laying out comments. You use a colon to indicate that its a response to a previous comment. Two colons for a response to a response and so on. Please sign your comments - there is a button on the toolbar for this. See http://meta.wikimedia.org/wiki/Help:Talk_page for more details --Smcmullan 10:59, 3 December 2009 (UTC)

Fanfare

Pitch 3 is top of the grade. By hostile, the guide book means bold. The infamous step-around exposes the leader to a factor one/two swinging fall. Before setting off, the leader may choose to place a runner above the belay stance. The topo in the current wicklow guide book does not show the line of the original second pitch given in the text. I believe it only shows the first pitch of Spilikin Ridge. A modern and less vegetated alternative perhaps. --Ste

Sebastian

Did Ifreann Direct into Sebastian. Lovely climbing. Did my best to clean the route on lead but it really needs a good clean. Kevin K, July 2014