Talk:Ailladie

Pink Cleft

Good for one of your first leads - easy gear, and easy belay. --Rob

Crater

Not a bad wee route. Worth doing. --Smcmullan 17:21, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

I found placing gear quite tricky, for me it was harder than severe, but I may have just missed something... I enjoyed it though! --Rob

Very nice, just a pity it's so short - Richard.

Lisdoonfarout

Lovely route,well worth doing. --Nicole

Deserves a star. A very popular route. --Smcmullan 17:21, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Altered Images

More like HVS --Dave Ayton

Uncontrollable

Good size 4 DMM Peanut protects the crux but is hard to place --Dave Ayton

Ground Control

I think that most people would give this VS 4c? --James Cruickshank

VS 5a. The move between the first and second ledges is pretty tough for the short of reach. 4c for taller people.--Smcmullan 17:27, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Phoenix

Technically more difficult than Ground Control. Gear is less obvious too. Very good.--Smcmullan 17:27, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Jumbo

A naff route. The crossly (bubbly aero like) crack doesn't allow decent protection. Do Phoenix instead.--Smcmullan 17:27, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

I have to (respectfully!) disagree with the above assessment of this route. There is a really bomber nut placement just to the right of the curved crack and I think that for a short route it has just as much interest as Phoenix - but make sure you get that nut right! --James Cruickshank

I'll do it again and I'll look out for that gear placement, thanks! I've only done the route once, led onsight, shortly after a fatal accident back in the late '80s, early '90s where the leader slipped, hung on the gear for a bit and then the gear ripped. Some of these shorter routes don't have much margin of error or tolerance of poor gear placement.--Smcmullan 17:27, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Fair comment. A friend of mine (whose identity I shall not reveal) took a ground fall from the top of this route (he didn't have the good nut in) and was lucky enough to escape unhurt.

That was me... What happened was, I was warming up on the climb and took a fairly laissez faire attitude to it as I wanted to do some harder stuff later. I had lead the climb about a year previously and remembered that there was a good placement near the top, unfortunately my memory is so poor that every ascent is a first ascent for me. I drifted off left (after the crux )and could only find a peanut placement behind a flake and a very dodgy #2 wire that I knew would not hold. I then proceeded to faff around looking for a good placement and tired myself out. In retrospect I should havekept climbing to the top, but I was now too knackered for this option and decided to downclimb; as soon as I came below the crappy nut it popped out and I slipped off. Normally things happen quite quickly in a fall but this one happened in slow motion, I remember looking at the peanut pulling the flake off the wall and thinking "Oh for f**ks sake" then passing the ledge and seeing my cam pop out as I was travelling so fast at this stage, Curiously my thoughts at this stage were " Ah well, you wouldn't get memories like this playing golf..." Next thing I hit the ground with a big thump. Luckily I am quite small and amazingly fitted in amongst all the boulders at the bottom of the climb, also I was wearing a helmet which protected me when my head whipped back onto a rock. My belayer (and I think he will confirm this)was much more freaked out than I was but advised me not to move as he thought I must have broken something at least, however I felt OK except for a twing in my right ankle. I got up and in line with the falling off the horse theory, lead Ground Control putiing in what must be a record 21 pieces of gear. Total fall 8m The lessons learnt from this episode were 1. Treat every climb with respect (falling 10m off a severe will kill you the same as falling 10m off an E4 2. Always wear a helmet. (New climbers especially, don't mind what your friends or the hard climbers do, you dont want to be spending the rest of your life eating through a straw) --Malcolm

Jet

There is a wire on the lower section and it will hold if placed correctly. The section above the ledge is well protected.--Smcmullan 17:34, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

The new guidebook says this is HS 4a with the higher boulder start. I'd give it VS 4c! - Richard.

It was HS 4a in the guidebook because a boulder moved up against the base of the climb and eliminated the crux. This boulder has now moved again so you have to do the crux although the gear is real easy to place from the boulder. I'd give it VS 5a. I don't think the top was ever HS either. Malcolm

Spitfire

Technically harder than Jet but better protected. Like the aforementioned route, very good, very popular.--Smcmullan 17:34, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

The Ocean

This is a classic example of a route where one move at the start makes the grade. Getting the opening move clean is notoriously difficult, but the rest of the climbing on the route is fair. An "easy" E2 tick for the bouldering fraternity, but but a bit of a fucker for the rest of us mortals. --Ian Mulvany

Atomic Rooster

Only deserves one star--Smcmullan 17:34, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

High in the grade for HVS but it's not an E1. Spitfire is quite similar but the protection is harder to arrange. - Richard.

Thought it was high in the grade, or possibly E1 as there's a bit of climbing to do before protection can be arranged after the crux. Harder for the short. - Ming

Genesis

You either love it or hate it. I love it. Deserves 3 stars. A fight for Hard Severe. Top of the grade if you can jam. Top of some higher grade if you can't.--Smcmullan 17:34, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Thoroughly enjoyed this - secure gear placements mean you can give it a good go without being desperate. --Rob

Yearly Winner of the "which climb deserves to have a truck load of cement poured down it!" Uuuughghhhh! --Dave Ayton

Bonnain Bui

Probably harder than Ground Control HVS 5a!!!--Smcmullan 17:38, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Forgot to mention. Top of the grade. Very popular and getting quite polished. Very old style technique, working up a constricted groove. --Smcmullan 17:38, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Definitely in HVS territory very polished from all the sweat. --Michael Leen

A brute, but it's brilliant! - Richard.

Did this a couple of years ago. And while I tend to like "old school" type routes, this is a steaming pile. Horrible. Avoid. Paul Brennan

Nutrocker

Overrated in my book. One star.--Smcmullan 17:38, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

I agree - i even remember thinking that from 15 years ago --Alan Blair

2 starts at least, it's feckin' class stuff! - Richard.

Saddleback Sow

The top is pure thuggery. Also, there is a new route which climbs the wall just to the right of Saddleback Sow - see the routes thread on the climbing.ie forum. --James Cruickshank

I agree with Jim, it feels like you have been in a fight --Malcolm

Can be made easier if you get your right foot back on to the main face early --Mike Clifford

E1 5b in my book --Dermo

I agree, the bottom section is quite tough and the protection isn't absolutely bombproof. I've done much easier E1s. - Richard.

Amhrasach

19th Jun 2005 - A large flake has fallen away from the top of this route on the main wall side. Still dirt there, will probably come away in the next good shower. No change in grade. --Dave Hunt

Son of Sam

Despite its length, its a technical gem. Deserves to be recognised with a * --Smcmullan 17:43, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Ya, thought this was amazing :-) Colm

Rollerball

Deserves at least 2 stars. A brilliant line. --Smcmullan 17:43, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Rowan, a visiting Australian, climbed essentially the direct start up the bulging wall beneath Rollerball, this features insecure 6c climbing with groundfall potential before the sanctuary of a reasonable wire is reached. Amazing moves....awesome effort....E7. --Nigel Callendar

Forbidden Kink

Why does this route not have stars?!?! Brilliant Line only slightly spoilt by the rusty manufactured peg placement. A very definate crux on brilliant rock and really well protected! Class --Dave Ayton

Marchanded Crack

Only E2 for the ballsy start. The rest of the climb is top end well protected E1. --Smcmullan 17:50, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Top end indeed. I found this harder than Skywalker. The route is hard to read and does it's best to put you off balance - Richard.

Sunbane

Great route to bad that it doesn’t get much attention! --Gregor

Eliminator

Tricky to onsight... feels E1 to the lickle wee overhang and then POW! ya fluff it! Great route! --Dave Ayton

Earthling

Peg is well rusted but I fell on it and so did kev power I think about a month ago, seems solid enough. Good wires below it. --Alan Sarhan

Point Blank

I've not done it but heard reliable reports that its more like E5--Smcmullan 17:50, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Led Sept 07. Safe but hard. E5 6b --Dave Turnbull

Lucy

Overrated. One star. The start and middle section drag it down.--Smcmullan 17:50, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

I repeated the route recently (first time 23 years ago). I was one of 6 people who did it and rated it 3 stars and E3. --Phill Thomas

Stigmata

Seems unlikely Crispin did this in 1986 as we hitched straight from Bristol to the Aran Islands and he never mentioned going to Ailladie on the way back. Or would even have known where it was. Maybe done on one of his later trips? 1990? --toby foord-kelcey

first peg snapped, to be replaced, second peg remains and I will try and replace also if it acquiesces. --Alan Sarhan

Replaced Peg with a whopper ... in to the hilt. Get on it before it gets polished! --Dave Ayton

Blockhead

Probably the best intoduction to E5 on the crag... maybe E4? --Dave Ayton

Definately easier than any other E5 I've been on but that start would be scary to on-sight. E4 sounds fair. - Colm Shannon

Skywalker

3 stars for heavens sake! A masterpiece.--Smcmullan 17:58, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Forgot to mention that its another reference E2 like Gallows Pole of a different style but E2 nonetheless. None of this E3 nonsense.--Smcmullan 17:58, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Moments of Inertia

E2 as well. Not 6a if you're tall. The sequence up the corner and right to the finger ledge and up again to a standing position is definitely more technical than anything on Skywalker but not by much. Its a great sequence none the less and I guess its reasonably bold trying to place gear under duress on the pillar with the prospect of swinging back into the corner onto a very small wire. Dont be tempted to yard off any of the blocks inside the finishing wide crack. Theyre pretty loose. Stay on the outside.--Smcmullan 22:07, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

It felt like E3 to me......... The protection is excellent though --Dermot Shiels

Moon Rill

Doesn't deserve a star.--Smcmullan 17:58, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

I think the star is warranted. This is one of my favourite routes in Ailladie. Granted it is not very sustained but I love the finish up the overhaning groove. --Paul Daly

Chocks Away

If Nutrocker gets stars this should too, similar style of climbing, longer and less polished - Richard.

Stardust

Thought this was an amazing route :-) lovely knee bar just before you climb the head wall. I'd give it 3 stars. Colm

Sea Of Dreams

does anyone know weather the gear was pre placed on the first ascent. this should really be stated. --Ricky Bell

Description from Andy Long: hi stephen, sea of dreams- Tried line on sight,ground up. Fell after trav on way up crack. Continued to top. Lowered and re lead. Gear placed on lead. Route lead again that trip cos its great. Hope that answers question. Back out 1st week of august. See you there maybe, cheers andy long --Smcmullan 17:58, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

I climbed this route back in May. Found the climbing along the traverse to be very difficuly because it was slightly wet. I found the crack to be ok just pumpy. I thought the technical grade was maybe 6c! Also thought I had done the first ascent. --Paul Swail

Does anyone know if the route to the right has been climbed? --Peter Owens

does anyone know about the route just right of sea of dreams? rumoured to have been attempted by keefe murphy - going at E6 ish perhaps - need details thanks --Peter

Sean lead the route to the right last week placing the gear on lead - E7 6c? --Dave A

Very Big Springs

Ricky Bell was on it this weekend and did not mention anything so I presume they are alright.(2 pegs lower down) --Alan Sarhan

Posted on behalf of Andy Long: Also did Very Big Springs this year and thought that would warrant E7 for the onsight.(i didnt).--Smcmullan 18:00, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Wow... spectacular climbing for a visiting new englander. In-situ seemed good --Ed Dillon

Line Of Fire

A good intro to E2. Only one star however.--Smcmullan 18:04, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Ice Queen

Peg has been there a long time, looks o.k., but good wires above and below it. --Alan Sarhan

Fall of Wossils

peg looks old but feels solid enough, either way there are decent Wire and friend placements around it... best to place them just in case :) --Dave Ayton

Aret can be climbed on either side --Colm Shannon

Ladda

Definitely worthwhile. Has one of the hardest cruxes for VS at Ailladie. Well protected however. Take the star away from Moon Rill and put it here. --Smcmullan 18:04, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

I think this crux deserves VS 5a too, trickier if you're tall desperate if you're not ! --Barry Watts

After three attempts, I reckon that the best approach is to heel hook the block. -- aoife byrne

once you can get your two hands to the top of the block on the right smear your feet on the slabby block and your sorted from there(hopefully) --Tony Ryan

Tombstone Terror

Tombstone Terror

A dangerous loose pile of choss, the main wall has gear placed in loose flakes, not worth much. Almost every hold you grap is loose, highly UNRECOMMENDED. --James O Reilly

Dont mind Jams OR Peter... Tis a great route! --Dave Ayton

fine for sandbaggers --Peter Owens

Hooked On Crack

Best description I have heard of this route comes from Jakob, a Polish friend who was seconding me and is more accustomed to Sports Climbing "What the f**k was that???" --Malcolm

Wear long sleeves and pants for this, it's too wide for hand jamming so your right limbs get a bit of a scraping trying to scuttle your way up. Brilliant if you keep an open mind! - Richard.

Faith

Posted on behalf of Andy Long: Abbed the line then top roped. Full redpoint ascent(gear in place). Pretty poor ethic but the best i could do at the time!! Graded for an "onsight" ascent which is what they all should be. Sounds like Ricky (Bell) placed gear on lead which is great.--Smcmullan 18:10, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Flaws In The Glass

Three pegs all remain. I fell on the second one recently, it held, large pieces of rust kept hitting me in the head, when I went back up to inspect it did not look all that healthy, I was also trying to hang on so the inspection was cursory. Good wires and friends below it. Bottom peg seemed o.k. top peg I am unsure of. --Alan Sarhan

Visiting climber from Wales felt this warrented 3 stars. - Colm Shannon Aug 2010

Refraction

Climbed this weekend, peg high on wall, gave it some good tugs on ab, it seemed to be good. I think its stainless steel also. Good wires below. --Alan Sarhan

The Ramp

High in the grade. A tough move at the start for the short of reach, mind you the ramp itself is ackward for the tall. Can be finished up a bit more directly than the 5a corner in the second pitch at about 5b/c. A great route.--Smcmullan 18:10, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Meant to add that you can boulder hop in to the base of the route from Pis Fliuch at low tide. Otherwise ab into the ledge 3m above the normal start at high tide but then you miss out a bit.--Smcmullan 18:10, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

An alternative start (easier?) is to get your hands onto the edge of the ledge then traverse right several meters to the extreme rhs of the ledge from where its straigh forward to pull up onto the ledge. Its possible to belay from this ledge if the tide is threatening the belayer! --James O Reilly

Peanut Butter Special

Not as 'orrible as it looks. Actually quite pleasant and good gear.--Smcmullan 18:17, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

yea i love the flake its like a tightrope --tony

Quicksilver

Always feels solid E5 to me - Harder than Blockhead, Eliminator and Sharkbait! --Dave A

Jokerman

In the interests of historical accuracy and recognition of a good effort it should be noted that Jokerman was on-sighted by Andy Long in 2003. --Pat Nolan

Sharkbait

Excellent! Brilliant! Short lived difficulties on better than bomber protection --Dave A

Pis Fliuch

Brilliant route with a classic dilemma - laybacking is the obvious thing to do but then how do you get the gear in? --James Cruickshank

Very Interesting route when the holds are damp, and you get your finger stuck in the crack --Jon Smith

Change the name to PieceOfPis or downgrade to VS. JugCity VS is harder. A great route in any case. --Conor Murphy

VS my ass. Easy to say when you leading Extreme Conor and have stamina to burn :-) A reference HVS 5a. Sheer class.--Smcmullan 18:17, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Key Largo

I climbed a direct version of this (Sli Eile) at the same grade in 1996 with Peter Owens. From the ledge above the crux, continue directly up the arete instead of moveing left. Gain a good finger hold in a spectacular position on the arete (good rock 4), then make a long reach up to gain a sloper then up easily along the rest of the arete to finish. --James O Reilly

Brilliant Route. Both cruxes protected by bomber gear. Colm - Aug 2010

HOPELESS ACTS OF DESPERATION

Really good route. The 'vicious crack' at the start is as bad as it sounds and the key largo start would probably be better (but then your ropes would be all over the place) but the rest of the route is really enjoyable with an excellent crux. Colm Shannon - Aug 2010

Garbh

Highly recommended. It doesnt let up. Theres a lot of climbing in this baby. Lots of thought required as it does its damn best to put you out of balance and in barn door situations. A pretty go-ey start to boot. Gear is very good. The full sea cliff experience. Might be a bit harder than 5b. Possibly harder than Western Pride. Must do WP again to compare.--Smcmullan 18:20, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Western Pride

Not 5c. More like low in the grade E2 5b, however a very good climb. Care required in gear placement due to crossly (bubbly) rock.--Smcmullan 18:20, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Fish Rising

Finish up the obvious thin ledges??? Should read: Traverse left to the obvious high hand hold and mantle ledge to make huge reach to gain break. Couldn't see anything resembling a thin ledge anywhere. Otherwise a nice route - Colm Shannon Aug 2010

Jug City

The best climb for your "first abseil in over the sea" route. Set up a good abseil, belay off wires AND the rope and don't forget your prussiks. Know how to use them! A gem at the grade.--Smcmullan 18:21, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

reputed to have been climbed in the dark, under the influence by some people a few years back. must have been very atmosphereic --Ian Mulvany

Great jugs, inconveniently placed - no slouch for the grade. Super ! --Conor Murphy

The Emigrant

A great route that should NOT be "assiduously avoided". Dry weather and a low tide are needed. Good climbing up the overhanging corner which just keeps going and going. Overall a great little adventure!! The grade of E2 5c is perfect also. --Frank Cox

Ifs the seas dead calm any tide will do. Beast of a route. - Colm Shannon Aug 2010

Venusian Spray

definatelly not a hvs i was belaying a (friend climbing e1) on it and he backed off it. someone else climbed it and gave it e2-3 in times of extra high tide it should ba avoided as shoven in the photo the route is in the corner with the big wave

Space Monkeys 2 - The Sequel

Supposed to be a lot harder than E1. More like E2/3 from reliable sources.--Smcmullan 18:32, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Grade is about E2 5c. The crack is straighforward as is the airy traverse right, however the moves from the end of the traverse to the top are goey 5c on slopers. Friends for the traverse seemed good to me but Claire Torrans ripped two of them and took a king swing when she greased off the hard moves, this was a few years back. The traverse is never fully dry which adds to the excitement! A great route. --James O'Reilly

Black Widow

Often underestimated. Its a lovely non-sustained E1. Probably good for a first E1 lead at Ailladie. However the moves are quite technical and you need to bring small gear and place it well. You could clip your heels on one of the ledges if you fall otherwise.--Smcmullan 18:32, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Low in the grade overall, but the crux move is hard enough - 5b alright. --Daire O'Brien

Forever Young

Photo by Pat Nolan - climber Ben Bransby--Smcmullan 18:32, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Ailleadoir

Peg at or just above crux at end of the traverse no longer remains. --Alan Sarhan

Thin Ice

Ehh, thin ice fell down several years ago, not sure if anyone has reclimbed the much thinner bottom half where the thin groove used to be. Was a great climb in its day pity its gone. --James O Reilly

Rising Tide

See comment for The Cold War --Smcmullan 18:37, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

The Cold War

The bottom half of this route seems to have fallen away. Doubt if it has been repeated since. The grade is no longer applicable and the rockfall has affected one of its neighbours either left or right. I don't know which.--Smcmullan 18:37, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Reprieve

See comment for The Cold War--Smcmullan 18:37, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Repreive has not been effected by the rockfall that changed Thin Ice. The is great involving the small corner followed by the delicate slab moves to get to the ledge. Perfectly graded at E2 5c --Frank Cox

Splashdown

A great little route but the top end of the E1 scale. Beware of some loose/creaky rock on the top section of the climb. --Frank Cox

Splashdown Direct Start

the way the climb should be done - abb into the bottom of Barracuda (the black corner to the right ) traverse over just above sea level to the arete and up --Peter Owens

Doolin Rouge

My climbing partner on Sunday last who will remain nameless got 14 pieces of gear into the route. A record?--Smcmullan 18:42, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Great Balls Of Fire

Bring your BIG gear for the crack--Smcmullan 18:42, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

A classic route. Easier if you can jam (which i can't) You get a little bit of all styles of climbing on this route --Malcolm O'Beirn

I agree - awkward wide crack at the start, a tough move to surmount the overhang, a delicate traverse, then a layback to finish - a bit of everything! --Conor Murphy

Yup, this is FANTASTIC! Bring two sets of hexes or camalots 2 and 3 if you want to protect the whole length of the lower crackline. Really brilliant stuff - Richard.

Great Balls Of Fire Direct Finish

A bit bold at the top. Place some good gear right at the top of the Great Balls of Fire crack before moving right.--Smcmullan 18:45, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Black Magic

A brilliant route. Bring the small wires too. There was some talk of making it E1 but that is complete nonsense. Some rock has come off about 2/3 the way up the route but that was a LONG time ago. No change to the grade.--Smcmullan 18:45, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Have to agree with Stephen, with all the (undoubtedly) 3star 5as in close proximity this I think is the best. Close contender for the Best little HVS in Ireland. --Jon Smith

Salt Rope

Haven't climbed it but a couple of reliable reports put it at E3 5c--Smcmullan 18:50, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

I seconded Martin on the re ascent and led it a while after too. Would rate it at E3 6a, theres quite a vicous thin move half way up to justify 6a. Peter Owens has led it too and verified this rating. --James O'Reilly

This route has now fallen into the sea. --Malcolm

Paul Daly's told me the route is still there --Colm 1/7/2010

Stevo

Not a bad route at all. Its quality is nothing to do with the fact that it was named after me :-) --Smcmullan 18:50, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Rumours that there has been rock fall due to sea action off the bottom of the routes in this section--Smcmullan 18:50, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Two Hand Reel

Easier than Stevo but the gear is poor.--Smcmullan 18:50, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Rumours that there has been rock fall due to sea action off the bottom of the routes in this section--Smcmullan 18:50, 9 October 2009 (UTC)

Is this route mixed up with Stevo.? The original description in the 1986 guide said to climb thin crack and step Right! at overhang. This would mean that Two Hand Reel starts off the left hand end of the sloping ledge. Then Stevo would have to be to the Right of two hand reel and start off the Right hand end of sloping ledge. Opinions anyone? --Paul Daly