Slieve Beg

From Irish Climbing Online Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search

J340275 A most impressive and perhaps the best mountain crag in the Mournes, Slieve Beg lies in a commanding position at the head of the Annalong Valley. However it seems condemned to almost a total backwater because of that extra half-hour walk from Lower Cove. This is evident from the encroaching vegetation on the routes, even the best ones, and hopefully this unjustified neglect can be reversed as the crag offers marvelous climbing.

The most obvious feature is the huge central gully of the Devil's Coach Road. To the left is the Main Face, south-east facing and characterised by a series of corners, and to the left again are two large south-facing areas separated by a steep grassy section, with on the far left a small buttress called Satan's Buttress. To the right of the Devil's Coach Road are more broken crags the most obvious feature being a steep broad slab of rock taken by Mourne Maggie.

<display_map zoom="14">54.179232, -5.946459~Slieve Beg</display_map>

The crag can be reached either from the Carrick Little car park (345219) along the Annalong Valley tracks or from Donard car park (374385) in Newcastle via the Glen River and over the Slieve Commedagh/ Slieve Donard col. Both approaches take about one and a half hours.

Routes are described from left to right, looking up from the valley floor. Satan's Buttress on the extreme left side of the South Face has a gully on either side. The steep right-hand one separates the buttress from the South Face and the one on the left is Satan's Gully which, with care as it is badly eroded, is the normal descent to routes on the left-hand side.

The following route is on a small buttress left and below Satan's Gully.

Satan's Defeat * 10m HS (4b)
J. G. Murray. 16/6/79.
Start at the obvious corner in this small buttress. Climb thin crack, then ascend on better holds to the heather ledge. The arete just right of this route has been climbed at 4c.

Satan's Staircase * 20m VD
P. Gribbon and Party. 28/2/53.
Start high in Satan's Gully 20m left and above the lowest point of Satan's Buttress, where the left-hand edge of the buttress meets the gully. Follow the edge of the buttress reaching a series of rounded pancake ledges at one-third height and finish up a small overhang.

Angel's Delight 30m HS (4b, 4a)
A. Linton, I. Gray. 19/5/73.
A pleasant enough route but with some doubtful holds. Start at the lowest point of Satan's Buttress.
1) 15m Climb front face (care with hollow sounding flakes) to a vertical crack and up to the large ledge.
2) 15m The easiest line is to climb corner on the right of slab to the long overhang. Turn this on the right and finish steeply up an obvious crack.

Satan's Slab 25m VD
P. Gribbon and Party. 28/2/53.
Start just right round the corner from Angel's Delight is a recess. Climb crumbly rib and right-hand wall of the recess which becomes a steep slab higher up.

Exorcised 28m VS (4c)
A. McQuoid, M. Curran. 23/4/78.
Start just right of Satan's Slab is the gully just before the South Face. Climb the diedre on the left-hand gully wall until possible to make a delicate step right followed by a pull up or continue up corner (harder). Two alternative starts to this route take the area of rock to the left on the front of the buttress.

The left-hand vertical crack starting 2m from the ground and 4m left of Exorcised was climbed at 5b by P. Mallon (1984) and the crack in the left edge of the recess starting below the original route was climbed at 5a by D. Stelfox (1983).

Crazy Dreams 45m VS (5a)
G. Murray (Solo). 20/5/87.
Start 2m left of Devil's Rib and directly opposite Exorcised. Climb wall just left of pillar and move up ledges to steep wall. Make good bridging moves up grooves to good ledge. Up corner and the pleasant wall above, keeping left.

Devil's Rib *** 54m VD
R. R. Johnston, N. Gault, W. Archer. 31/10/47.
A tremendous route for its grade, giving continually exposed situations in grand surroundings. Start at the base of the rib marking the left-hand edge of the South Face. 1) 20m Climb onto the rib from the left and up to belay. (Harder (S) if climbed direct up the front of the rib. Care required with rock.) 2)34m Wind up the exposed arete, turning the top overhang.

Phred * 54m HS (4b)
S. J. Crymble, R. Creighton, D. Bruce. 6/71.
1) 20m As for Devil's Rib.
2) 34m Continue up and move straight up the diedre just right of the upper section of Devil's Rib, traverse left to the gully and the top.

The following four routes all start on the grass ledge below the South Face, best approached by scrambling up rock and heather from the left - don't feel embarrassed about putting on the rope for this, as it is serious enough, especially the further right you're going.

Broken Wings *** 45m E3 (6a)
G. Murray, N. Harkness. 17/10/86.
Start 6m right of Phred and 2m left of the grass-filled groove taken by Devil's Deception, at the base of the black wall. Climb boldly straight up wall to the crack running through the bulge, with thread runner before bulge. Make acrobatic moves through bulge to gain good crack. Jam up crack, step left into groove system and climb this more easily to the top. The grassy groove is taken by Devil's Deception VS (8. Moorehead, C. Stead. 18/6/67.) but is not worth the struggle.

Graceland * 45m E2 (5c)
G. Murray (Solo). 14/10/86.
Start 1m right of grass-filled groove of Devil's Deception. Climb wall using flake and groove to reach good holds on the right (crux). Move up to square ledge, follow grooves up to another ledge and then steeply but easily to the top.

Shadowfax ** 40m E1 (5b)
C. Torrans, J. Bruce (One aid point). 1974.
D. Stelfox (First free ascent). 183. An excellent route which will keep you on your toes right to the top. Start 6m right of Graceland below twin cracks, belay peg low down on right. Climb twin cracks with difficulty for 8m and then up to a good ledge. Continue up crack to niche, move delicately right for a few feet and up into crack which is climbed with increasing difficulty to the top.

Necromancer *** 35m E3 (6a)
D. Stelfox, R. McNeill (Three aid points on the overhang). 7/8/83.
C. Torrans (First free ascent). 9/83.
An excellent route with varied climbing which requires a good lead. Start at the right end of the grass ledge at the small corner capped by an overhang at about 10m. Climb the crack to gain the corner. Follow the corner to a final resting place (hopefully not your own) about 5m below the overhang. Never­ending laybacking leads through the overhang to a thankful rest on a good ledge above. Follow the crack for another 2m, then traverse left on thin holds to a small but good ledge below an overlap. Move to the left­hand end of this and then delicately up and left across the wall to gain the deep crack. Follow this with increasing difficulty until it runs out at a slight bulge. Shuffle tentatively right to gain the next crack system which is followed to the top.

The middle section of the South Face is seamed with grass gullies, ramps and ledges which makes access to the bottom of many of the routes problematical, but one should persevere as it contains some excellent routes.

Chase the Clouds Clear * 48m E1 (5b)
A. Currans, A. McQuoid. 5/81.
This route takes the long obvious slab right of the previous routes. It is best approached by a 50m abseil, belaying on the left-hand side of the slab. Climb with difficulty up the slab, trending slightly right to reach a steep wall (minimal protection). Traverse left to crack and climb to ledge (possible belay). Step left onto well-featured wall and climb directly to the top. Right again is a large area of rock lined with parallel grooves, bounded on its left-hand side by a steep grass gully that starts half way up the crag, and with a double diedre in the middle of the wall, the line of Burden of Dreams.

Burden of Dreams *** 114m E3 (5a, 5a, 6a, 4a)
I. Rea, P. Holmes. 23/4/90.
Takes the left-hand, clean corner of the double diedre which gives a superb crux. Start at a left trending crack a few metres left of a grassy ramp which starts at the lowest point of rock.
1) 22m Go up crack which leads to a flake system trending left and follow this directly to belay on a ledge.
2) 12m Follow another left trending system of flakes to the left edge of overhang. Traverse horizontally under overhang until possible to cross it at break and then go straight up to ledge.
3) 40m Climb up to first roof and layback around this on the right and go up a bit until possible to step left into base of a very steep right facingdiedre. Go up this and over roof (sustained) into niche as for The Fiddler and continue up to large ledge.
4) 40m Climb and scramble up the rock and heather as for The Fiddler.

The Fiddler ** 97m E1 (4c, 5b, 4b)
C. Torrans, W. Jenkins (Three aid points). 9/9/67.
C. Torrans (First free ascent). 1980.
The first two pitches of Burden of Dreams lead to the belay at the end of the first pitch on this route. This combination would give an excellent expedition at a reasonable standard from the very base of the face to the top. Start at the lowest point of rock, marking the junction of the South and Main Face, at the left-hand and lower of the two grassy ramps that lead diagonally left.
1) 27m Up grassy ramp a few metres to small corner. Use this to gain the upper ramp which leads to wide corner and two ledges to a belay ledge on the left (scrappy). The wide corner can also be gained by continuing further along the lower ramp until possible to move right into it.
2) 30m Move right, up to a block and work left into the corner. Up this a few moves and then move right to the obvious break in the overhang above. Up this and then step left to below another, smaller overhang. Move further left to a crack which is climbed for 6m to a pile of blocks. 3) 40m Climb and scramble up the rock and heather above.
Variation Direct Start HVS (5a) M. Manson, T. Ryan. 4/l4/81. 1) From the end of the lower grassy ramp take a direct line up the wall to the belay and is more interesting and cleaner.

Slipstream ** 95m E1 (4c, 5b, 5a)
R. Greene and Party. 1975.
Start as for The Fiddler.
1) 27m As for The Fiddler to the base of the wall.
2) 33m Step right onto the wall and continue up the obvious fault line. Join twin cracks leading up to good flake below roof. Continue up to where wall overhangs, then move right around the arete to reach a belay ledge on Pitch 2 of Wabash Cannonball.
3)35m Up the corner left of Wabash Cannonball. Swing right round large block to join Wabash Cannonball on the final slab. (Although it is simpler to just finish up Wabash Cannonball.)

Wabash Cannonball ** 85m VS (4c, 4b)
C. Torrans, S. Billane, W. J. Baxter. 8/9/74.
To quote New Climbs 1974 "should become a trade route" and indeed it is a classic. This is well deserved as the climbing is neither desperate nor sustained for the grade and is a long, well protected, excellent outing. Unfortunately, however, it is becoming overgrown and needs a lot of traffic (or re-cleaned!) to maintain its quality. Unlike other routes in the area it is not traditionally referred to by its initials.
The left-hand of two huge diedres running the full length of the Main Face is widest at the top and peters out at the bottom where it is filled by a flat pillar with a wide grassy groove on its right-hand side. From the lowest point of rock (as for The Fiddler) follow grassy ramp a few metres to small corner. Up this and scramble right across vegetation to good ledge and belay at the base of this wide, grassy groove.
1) 45m Trend left and follow crack to reach the diedre proper. Continue straight up corner (dirty exit) or (cleaner) up until it is possible to move out left on a big flake to the outside face and trend back right. On up ledges to good belay on the highest one.
2) 40m Up corner to cracks on right and up cracks and easy ground to an arete on the right. Finish airily up corner in the arete.

The following four routes have rather steep, annoying/awkward vegetated approaches but persevere as the climbing is good and the heather roots are strong enough to take your grunting pulls - don't forget its character building. If this puts you off an abseil approach could be considered.

Satanic Majesty ** 66m E2 (4c, 5b, 4a)
S. J. Crymble, M. Curran, D. Chambers (Numerous aid points). 26/3/73.
C. Torrans, S. Billane (First free ascent). 1974.
Persevere with the heathery approach as the second pitch is one of the best in the Mournes. Start 20m right of Wabash Cannonball at the right-hand of the two huge diedres. Best approached by scrambling up heather on the right. 1) 15m Up groove and corner to large platform.
2) 42m Bridge around the small overhang just above the belay and up groove to small ledge on right. Move left to base of corner. Climb corner to obvious overhang and step right to the arete. Up and left to regain groove and more easily to the top.
3) 9m Scramble up broken ground to belay.

The Devil's Alternative 80m E1 (5b, 5a, 4c)
D. Stelfox, T. Maguire. 2/8/81.
The route takes in a rightward-sloping ramp just right of Satanic Majesty, pitch 2 of Shaughran and the steep corner directly above. Start just round the corner from Satanic Majesty at the base of a small corner.
1) 35m Up this to a narrow terrace. Continue up the steep corner ramp above, moving left using a high hidden handhold at about 5m. Continue on up slabs and corners to ledge.
2) 35m Climb corner and off-width of Shaughran.
3) 10m From belay ascend steep wall and groove above. Move left into corner above and pull over juggy overhangs above to top.

Shaughran * 74m HVS (4c, 5b, 4a)
C. Torrans. 14/1/76.
Yet another good route disappearing under the vegetation - so go and do it! Start 10m right and 5m above The Devil's Alternative. Climb to top of a grass triangle and move left into corner.
1) 30m Climb corner on good holds for 25m. Move left into V chimney to ledge and belay.
2 ) 35m Climb corner with increasing difficulty to wide crack. Up crack on poor jams.
3) 9m Easier rock leads up rightwards to the top.

Breaking Away 70m VS (4c, 4b)
I. Rea, D. Stelfox, T. Maguire. 26/6/81.
Start right of Shaughran, under a series of small overhangs where a large block sits separate from the cliff.
1) 40m Gain the top of the block and make a few moves up and left to a ledge. Step left and swing round on good jugs to gain the base of the large fault trending right. Climb this to a ledge below a short white wall.
2) 30m Climb the right edge of the wall and gain the ledge to the bottom of the last pitch of Poetic Justice. Finish up this.

Poetic Justice ** 96m VS (4b, 4a, 4b, 4b, 4b)
W. Jenkins, C. Moore. 8/7/66.
Usually referred to as PJ, it is a classic `Mourne Expedition' and a must for all and sundry with sustained interest, exposure and great belays. The right-hand end of the Main Face has a large buttress forming the lower half of the route. The first two pitches take a crack line up the crest of this buttress. Start 3m left of the small gully marking the right-hand end of the buttress.
1) 18m Climb the crack and grooves to the bulge. Take a long step left onto a ledge and follow the crack in the nose above.
2) 27m Climb up and step right to the arete and move up on loose blocks to the large grass ledge on the top of the buttress.
3) 12m Ascend grassy blocks and an awkward mantelshelf to an airy ledge on the left. Steeply climb up right to belay beneath a diedre.
4) 27m Ascend the diedre to summit vegetation.

The Beezer E3 (5b,5c) 50m's.
S. Ferris and I. Rea, alt. leads, 12/4/10
The first two pitches follow Poetic Justice. 1) 18m Climb the crack and grooves to the bulge. Take a long step left onto a ledge and follow the crack in the nose above.
2) 27m Climb up and step right to the arete and move up on loose blocks to the large grass ledge on the top of the buttress.
3) 25m Ascend grassy blocks and an awkward mantelshelf then step right and go up a steep airy crack to belay as for Poetic Justice. 3) 25m Takes the same slender pillar as Poetic Justice but instead of moving right around and into the corner go steeply up via a thin crack and layaways onto the sloping ledge. Swing out left onto the steep face of the pillar and finish up wall and arete.

JP ** 60m E3 (5b, 6a)
D. Stelfox, P. Mallon (One rest point). 15/5/88.
P. Mallon, D. Stelfox (First Free Ascent). 1992.
The first two pitches of Poetic Justice climb a lower subsidiary buttress to reach the foot of the right-hand side of the Main Face. This point can also be reached by a short traverse in from the Devil's Coach Road. Start as for Poetic Justice pitch 3.
I) From the grass covered blocky ledge on Poetic Justice step right onto a steep wall. Climb straight up this on flat holds to gain a ledge below a detached pillar of rock. Step left to belay as for pitch 4 of Poetic Justice.
2) Step back right round the pillar to a corner on it's right-hand side. Delicately bridge up this and awkwardly step onto a sloping ledge on the left. Bridge on up to reach good holds on the impending wall above then on up past projecting block to good finger jams and the top (crux).

A poor vegetated route Unfinished Symphony 45m VS (C. Torrans, W. Jenkins. 8/4/67.) takes a line just right of Poetic Justice finishing on the large grass ledge.

Next right is the huge gully of the Devil's Coach Road which has routes on both sides. The left-hand side is usually damp and manky but the other side has great routes including the absolute classic Sweetie Mice. This gully provides access to the routes either from the top or the bottom but care is required as the gully is badly eroded and beware of dislodged boulders from other parties using the gully. The following two routes are located on the left-hand side of the Devil's Coach Road.

Colder than a Well Digger's Ass 25m S (4a)
8. Stewart, S. Mcllwaine. 28/12/85.
Start just above the narrow gully half way up the left side. Twin cracks lead to an open-book corner at 15m. Climb the right-hand crack and corner.

Little Plum 24m VD
M. Curran, G. Kendal. 25/6/70.
Start 12m below the top rim below base of obvious tower. Up steep groove and ascend corner on large holds.

The following routes are all on the impressive right-hand gully wall and are described from the top of the Devil's Coach Road.

Scragg 39m VD
M. Curran, M. Rooney. 26/8/70.
Start under an obvious chimney, just above the upper subsidiary gully. Scramble up and climb chimney and wall above.

Kangaroo Butter 35m HS (4b)
M. Mills, J. Forsythe. 28/3/82.
Start at the line of grooves on the left-hand edge of the subsidiary gully, with a detached flake on the right-hand edge, about half way up. Climb past the flake and the ledge above, move left round the corner to the base of another diedre. Climb this past grass ledges and finish up a crack.

Clegg 45m VD
M. Curran, M. Rooney. 26/8/70.
Start on the left-hand wall of the subsidiary gully, out right of Kangaroo Butter. Follow cracks and ledges to the top.

Jug O'Punch 45m VD
M. Curran, H. Williamson, P. Blake. 1/11/70.
Start 12m right of Clegg on the left-hand wall of the subsidiary gully. Up blocks and corners for 15m to a large corner, move right onto the edge and up easily with caution to the top.

There are four regular square-cut corners at the right-hand edge of the upper subsidiary gully; the following routes take these corners from left to right.

Devil's Advocate * 32m VS (4b)
M. Curran, J. Kerr. 6/6/76.

Coal-Dust Corner 32m VS (4b)
S. Mcllwaine, 8. Stewart, D. Colley. 28/9/85.

Muff Diver 32m VS (4c)
P. Holmes, K Quinn. 26/5/81.

Big Muff 32m VS (4b)
P. Holmes, K Quinn. 26/5/81.

Polo 27m D
M. Curran, R. Curran. 4/72.
This climb takes the larger corner on dirty rock just right of the four corners.

Sledge 28m E1 (5b)
J. McKenzie, P. McHugh. 8/75.
Interesting climbing spoilt by the crumbly start and is tough for the grade. Start at the battered ramp just below Polo. Follow right trending line on friable rock to triangular niche at base of a vertical diedre. Gain the diedre above the bulge by a strenuous move that leads more easily to the top.

Fingertip Connection * 30m E2 (5c)
G. Murray, P. Holmes. 5/8/84.
Start at the crack just below Sledge and before the pinnacle of Shelob. Climb the crack until forced to move into the right-hand crack. Make hard moves to reach a small pocket, move back into left-hand crack and climb the crack to ledges. Climb the corner crack easily to the top.

Shelob ** 33m VS (4b)
I. Gray, A. Linton. 19/5/73.
A fine positioned and well protected excursion up this steep wall. Start at the right end of the wall just before the lower subsidiary gully, at a detached flake with a distinct crack above. From the detached flake step right to gain the crack and then an awkward mantelshelf to a small ledge. Follow the left-hand crack on good jams to the top.

Blasphemy Corner 30m HS (4b)
J. Milligan, J. Brown. 29/4/62.
Start as for Shelob to the ledge. From here move right round the corner (the continuation thin crack is 5a, passing an old peg) to gain a large ledge. From here a crack, wall and series of corners leads to the top.

The diedre just right of Blasphemy Corner in the lower subsidiary gully has been climbed at S (3c).

Tara's Halls * 40m E1 (5b)
T. Irving, J. McGarry. 16/6/79.
This route takes the arete on the right-hand side of the lower subsidiary gully, left of Sweetie Mice. The crux is at first overlap.

Parallel Lines ** 40m HVS (5a)
C. Torrans, C. Sheridan. 16/6/79.
Unbelievable jamming in wonderfully rounded grooves - the epitome or the pity of Mourne climbing. Climb the parallel cracks left of the obvious diedre taken by Sweetie Mice.

Sweetie Mice *** 40m HVS (5a)
J. McGuinness, J. Bruce. 19/5/73.
An excellent classic one of the best in the Mournes but there is a risk the rock could have a veneer of lichen due to lack of ascents. Start at the steep diedre at the bottom of the Devil's Coach Road. Climb the diedre until forced to step right at a bulge onto the arete at 25m and follow this more easily to the top.

Alchemy ** 40m E4 (6a)
E. Cooper. 11/5/88.
A quality route up the right arete of Sweetie Mice. Start at the base of the arete. Climb easily up to a narrow ledge and continue up the arete with difficulty to a bulge. Technical moves over this lead up the edge to a good pocket before bold moves lead to good finishing holds.

Fragile 35m HVS (5a)
I. Rea, M. Rea, G. Murray. 16/4/87.
Start as for Sweetie Mice. Climb up for 5m then move right to base of left-facing layback corner. Up this and step right onto precarious shattered flake. Directly up on good ledges then finish up the obvious diagonal line trending left to top of Sweetie Mice.

A loose and unsatisfactory route Cloud Walker 30m S (S. 8. ` Moorehead, C. Stead. 18/6/67. ) follows Fragile but traverses right for 2m past the left-facing corner and trends right on up the wall.

The small corner 5m below Sweetie Mice and the wall above has been climbed at 4c.

70m right of the Devil's Coach Road is a deep gully with a shallow scree ramp sweeping down from the right.

Loosifer * 39m VS (4c)
J. Rotherham, T. Hawkins. 11/3/72.
A pleasant route but care required with some holds. It climbs out of the above mentioned gully on its right-hand edge and up the arete. Awkward moves on indifferent rock lead to a stance at 9m. Gain the arete and climb this to the top.

Tongue in Check 20m VS (4c)
G. Murray. 16/4/87.
Climb wall just right of Loosifer on big jugs.

Hangover 20m VD
T. Hawkins, J. Rotherham.
Right and around the corner from Loosifer is a wall covered with rugosities. Start in the corner just right of this and climb the slab for 6m, then the corner keeping left at the top.

Holey Slabs 67m VD
P. Gribbon, J. White. 29/3/52.
Worth it for the first pitch but the second has now succumbed to vegetation. Start at the broken rock buttress in a sandy gully, right of the obvious wide gully leading to Loosifer.
1) 42m Follow a line of quartz extrusion keeping two prominent blocks to the left and finishing under a tower.
2)25m Over the prow above overlooking the scree ramp on heather and dubious rock.

At the extreme right-hand end of the crag is an obvious broad, clean slab and the distinct line up the middle is Mourne Maggie. Left of Mourne Maggie slab is a wide gully containing a rock wall and overhang near the bottom. Just left of this wall is a buttress split in half by a grass ledge. Two routes take this buttress sharing the same first pitch to the grass ledge and two independent finishes.

Inner Piece 52m VS (4c)
D. Stelfox (Solo.) 2/5/81.
Good climbing on the second pitches compensate for the vegetated first pitch. Start a few metres left of the wide gully. 1) 28m Step left to gain the ramp leading back right. When this steepens step right onto the arete. Dramatic but easy moves lead past a huge projecting block onto the edge. Continue up to the grass ledge. 2) 24m Up and right around the buttress edge to the base of a wide bay. Climb on the right for 3m then move left into the corner. Up this (crux) to a large ledge at half height. Take the right-hand corner crack to finish.

Outer Cam HVS (5a)
D. Stelfox, l. Rea, T. Maguire. 26/6/81.
1) 28m As for Inner Piece.
2) 24m Follow the arete left of Inner Piece leading more or less directly up to the projecting block.

At the extreme right-hand end of the crag, right of a wide gully is an obvious broad slab. The next three routes climb this slab. The start of these routes is gained by either scrambling carefully up the rock and heather below the face to the large grass ledge, belay on right, or by climbing the first pitch of Mourne Maggie.

Haunted Heroes * 35m HVS (5a)
G. Murray, P. Turley. 12/10/85.
Start as for the second pitch of Mourne Maggie. Climb diagonally leftwards up flakes to the edge of the slab. Step right into small niche and up a right-trending crack.

Mourne Maggie ** 48m HVS (5a)
K. Quinn, W. Holmes. 11/9/77.
Wonderful, delicate climbing with just enough protection to enjoy the fine situation. Start under the overhanging right-hand side of the slab.
1) 18m The original start is to climb a corner and move back left onto a large grass ledge. It is now normal to gain this ledge directly.
2) 30m Up from left of ledge for 5m. Move right and up the diminishing crack system until a delicate move leads to a shallow scoop. Traverse left below the overhang to the obvious crack in its left-hand end and climb this to the top.

Heartland * 30m Ell (5a)
G. Murray, P. Turley. 12/10/85.
Start at the right-hand end of grass ledge as for Mourne Maggie belay at the top of Pitch 1. Climb up slab to leftward-sloping crack, along this to vertical crack of Mourne Maggie. Move horizontally right and make a delicate move (crux) to a good break. Continue up flakes on arete and on up to top as for Closer.

Immediately right of Mourne Maggie slab is an obvious corner capped by a roof.

Happy Trails 60m HS (4b, 4b)
l. Rea, M. Robinson, P. Turley. 30/11/80.
Scrappy first pitch but worth it for the second - affectionately known as `Crumbly Trails'. Start up the wall left of the corner mentioned above.
1) 25m Climb the short wall - awkward moves leading to good jugs. Move left to short corner, up this and trend right to reach a small ledge on the very edge of the slab and belay.
2) 35m Move left and up about 5-6m to where an obvious line breaks off the main slab leading to a short corner. Move left into open niche at base of this corner (crux). Climb the corner and break out right to reach a small ledge below the finishing slab. Boldly up the final slab in a grand position and move right to large grass ledge and belay.
Finish by easy scrambling to gain the summit vegetation.

Closer * 50m VS (4c, 4b)
I. Rea, D. Stelfox. 15/2/81.
Steady difficulties with a serious air due to some doubtful rock and the best climbing is to finish with the second pitch of Happy Trails. Start just right of Happy Trails in the obvious roof-capped corner.
1) 22m Climb the corner stepping right past the roof, and then back left along steep ramp to belay as for Pitch 1 of Happy Trails. 2) 28m Move left and climb the crux of Happy Trails until level with a big grass ledge on the left. Gain the arete on the left and climb this to the top (Heartland).

Splinter 60m HVS (4b, 4c, 5a + Two Aid Points)
K Quinn, T. Hawkins. 19/9/82.
An outing for those who are looking for something different. Start 25m right of Mourne Maggie slab in a recess directly below a wide crack high up.
1) 18m Swing left and up on steep crumbly rock to belay at the top of heather ramp.
2) 12m Climb a right-slanting crack for about 7m. Traverse left and delicately round the corner to leaning block.
3) 30m Start up a wide crack, step left and up a corner to the base of an overhanging off-width crack. Rest ledge on right. Climb the crack using two wooden wedges, in situ, (7 inches long) for aid.