Skreen Rock

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The crag is located east of and just above the Cladagh River in the area of Marble Arch and 500m from the Florencecourt to Blacklion Road (Grid Ref. 125 352, Sheet 26, Lough Allen).Park at Marble Arch. There is an access problem, so permission should be obtained before visiting the crag. Do not take cars up the track, but park at Marble Arch. The rock consists of good quality limestone with little vegetation. The routes are short, excellent, low grade climbs which are close together. Adherence to the strict line of the route is a local ethic. Protection on most routes is good.

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1 SNAIL SHELL SLAB 5m D R. Finlay 1979 Start just left of Crack N'Arête. Climb the short slab on delightful holds. At the top step right and surmount the steep little wall.


2 CRACK N'ARÊTE 5m D K. Quinn 1979 Start on the left-hand side of Nursery Buttress. Climb the wide crack and stay on the edge above.


3 NURSERY BUTTRESS 5m Mod The little buttress left of Quango's Tango.


4 QUANGO'S TANGO 5m VD K. Quinn 1979 The awkward crack a few feet left.


5 CAVE CORNER 5m Mod R. Henshaw 1979 Start immediately left of Block Arête. A wide crack with loose rubble at the top.


6 BLOCK ARÊTE 7m D K. Quinn 1979 The next arête left. Start low down at Base Camp. Reach the leaning block and surmount the bulge above.


7 EASY ARÊTE 7m Easy R. Finlay 1979 The next though less defined arête to the left.


8 SKREEN ROCK ARÊTE 5m D R. Finlay 1979 An obvious sharp arête on the extreme right of this small crag.


9 LUCKY BOUNCE 10m HVS 5a J. Walsh, R. Hassard May 1994 2 metres left of 'Nightmare...climb clean(!) rock over initial bulge to horizontal break at two thirds height. Finish rightwards on loosish arête.


10 NIGHTMARE OF DRY SPAGNUM 8m VD K.Quinn 1979 Start a few metres left of Misconception. Use the wide crack and bridging moves to reach good holds further up.


11 THUNDER & LIGHTNING 10m VS 5b J.Walsh, G.Fallis 29 June 1992 A few feet left of Misconception at the base of two thin cracks. Climb these, difficult to start. Well protected with small wires.


12 MISCONCEPTION 8m D K.Quinn 1979 Climb the corner at the left-hand side of the crag.


13 NUMB NUMB 8m VS 4c K.Quinn 1979 Start 4 m left of Footless Duck.Climb the deep crack to where it splits. Gain a ledge and beware of loose rock.


14 FOOTLESS DUCK 8m VD K.Quinn 1979 Climb the first corner on Ashtree Buttress.


15 FRESH START 15m E1 5b A.Currans, J.Walls 10th August 1990 On the wall just right of Footless Duck is a steep thin crack. This route follows the crack direct. Strenuous.


16 FORGOTTEN ROUTE 8m S 4b K.Quinn 1979 Start immediately left of Technical Advice at an overhang. After a dramatic start climb directly up to finish on loose rock.


17 TECHNICAL ADVICE 8m VD R.Henshaw 1979 Climb the cliff 1 m left of Thief's Flight.


18 THIEF'S FLIGHT 8m VD A.Carden 1979 Climb the front of pinnacle at obvious crack 1 m left of Pillar Arête.


19 PILLAR ARÊTE 8m VD R.Finlay 1979 Climb the cliff 1 m left of Ashtree Catcher.


20 JARGONISTIC 8m VS 4c J.Walsh, J.Walls 25 June 1992 Start between Pillar Arête and Ashtree Catcher. A contrived route up the face of the blocks avoiding two other routes.


21 ASHTREE CATCHER 8m D R.Henshaw Start - 10 m left of Clarke's Lark at a crack and a large detached block. Climb the awkward corner crack and chimney up behind the block.


22 LIP BASHER 9m VS 4c W.Canning, R.McGurkan 25 August 1987 Climb the obvious line with bulge at half height. Protection difficult to arrange.


23 FLAKE OUT 10m S 4b R. Finlay 1979 Start just left of Skreen Sheugh in the corner below flakes. Climb on small holds and 'glued' flakes.


24 SKREEN SHEUGH 12m VD D.Jones 1979 Start just around the corner from Clarke's Lark. Climb the wide obvious crack and exit up a corner with an ivy stem.


25 CLARKE'S LARK 8m D J.Clarke Takes the slab just left of Voie Du Trou. Climb directly on delightful holds to a small pinnacle (loose). Surmount the block directly and exit as for Voie Du Trou.


26 VOIE DU TROU 8m D R. Finlay 1979 Climb the vegetated corner left of Midge and up behind a jammed boulder. Exit right (loose).


27 MIDGE 8m VD J.Armstrong 1979 Climb the next crack left of Finger Me Baby.


28 FINGER ME BABY 8m S 4a R. Finlay 1979 Climb the next crack left of Bat Roost. Keep strictly to the crack.


29 BAT ROOST 9m HS 4b K.Quinn 1979 Climb the next crack left of Venetian Blind to the top.


30 VENETIAN BLIND 8m VD R. Henshaw 1979 Climb the wide crack in the corner left of The Nose.


31 THE NOSE 8m S 4a K.Quinn 1979 Start 1m left of Rubbly Gubbly Gully. Keep to the steep stepped buttress.


32 RUBBLY GUBBLY GULLY 7m S 4a R. Henshaw 1979 The obvious wide crack leading to a small rubbly chimney.


33 THIN ARÊTE 7m S 4b R. Finlay 1979 Start 3m left of Condor Moment. Without using holds on climbs either side ascend the arête on small holds.


34 CONDOR MOMENT 5m S 4a J.Clarke 1979 Start 1 m left of Frog Leap Crack. Climb the wall on small holds to the crack at half height and on to the top.


35 FROG LEAP CRACK 5m VD K.Quinn 1979 Start at the extreme right of the crag. Climb the obvious crack with the jammed spike.

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