Scalp na gCapail

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This gneiss crag is situated in the Ox mountains in County Sligo. OS Grid Ref G642278, Sheet 25, Collooney. Lat/Long 54.1976, -8.5491. Take the road from Ballysadare to Ballina. A minor road on the left after two miles and a small lake leads in a short distance to the crag in the town lands of Collooney. Continue along this road to reach Happy Valli crag.

ScalpNaGcapail.jpg

Santa Maria de Vison 20m HS (4a)
Start: 15m left of Juliana. The route takes the left hand side of the wall.
Climb square cut ledges on the L.H.S. of wall to where the wall steepens. A few technical moves lead to good jugs and top. Good protection.
(M. Daly , B. Proctor - 6th October 2018)

Juliana 25m VS (4c)
Start : 20m left of 'Moore Street Trader' there is an overhang at mid-height and a second overhang near the top. The route climbs through the middle of the two overhangs. Move up to the lower overhang and climb through it. Continue up the wall to a stance below the upper overhang. Climb to the crack in the centre of the overhang and gain jugs above. Mantle over to top (crux).
( M. Daly , B. Proctor - 29th September 2018)

Lavia 25m E1 (5b)
Start 2m right of 'Juliana' Pull up onto wall by difficult moves and climb diagonally rightwards to stance below faint crack. Move up to base of bulge. Climb this, strenuously, (crux) to good rest. Continue to top.
(M. Daly , B. Proctor - 29th September 2018)

Under the Carpet HS(4c)
Start 3m left of Moore Street Trader. Climb the bulge and stay left of neighbouring route until joining is necessary at 2/3 height. Finish as per Moore Street Trader.
C Ó Fiannachta, I Krella. May 2017

The main feature of the crag is a prominent triangular face split by three obvious crack lines. The leftmost one is taken by

1. Moore Street Trader 25m HVS (5a)
Climb the left slanting crack to the top. Hard start and finish. Stake belay.
(M. Daly, C. McDaid – 27th April 2007)

The central crack line is taken by

2. Polish Paddy 25m VS (4c)
– Climb the crack through a small roof and follow directly to the top, finishing up a small slabby wall. Stake belay
(M. Daly, C.McDaid – 27th April 2007)

3. Ganger Gaffney 25m E2 (5b)
– Halfway between Polish Paddy & Tweezer, climb through the horizontal break then up a precarious slab (protected by no5 nut in slot) through the faint overlap/break and then up a left trending crack to join the neighbouring routes in the upper section. Stake belay
(M.Daly, C.McDaid - 4th June 2007)

The rightmost crack line is taken by

4. Tweezer 25m VS (4c)
– Climb the crack with an awkward initial section. The route gradually traverses leftwards in the upper section to join the slabby wall of the previous route. Stake belay
(C. McDaid, M. Daly – 27th April 2007)

5. God of Strathyre 13m E1 (5b)
– On the left wall of the right arête of the triangular face, there are two faint crack lines. Climb these with minimal protection until a large scoop is gained. Don’t use the arête!! Belay on the tree on right hand side and abseil off.
(C.McDaid, D. O’Neill –28th April 2007)

6. Postie Pornstar 20m Severe (4a)
– The arête immediately right of God of Strathyre is climbed direct, with a step right at half height. Continue up the arête. Stake belay.
(C.McDaid, M.Daly – 4th June 2007)

Two lines were climbed in the 70’s to the right of this face and are as follows:

7. Hanging Tree Chimney 25m Severe (3a)
– Takes the chimney to the right of the triangular face. Up chimney, step left at the top, good holds to a tree. Continue to the top. Peg belay 3m back from the edge.
(G. Foley – 9th October 1976)

8. Tadpole Creek 25m V Diff
– Start right of Hanging Tree Chimney. Scramble easily leftwards to a heather ledge. Climb a series of cracks and ledges to the top. Peg belay.
(G. Foley – 9th October 1976) Further right there is a wall seamed by three cracks. The first two cracks share a common start before splitting after two metres. The leftmost is taken by

9. Teach Urlar 17m HS (4b)
– Climb the leftward trending blocky crack, traverse right when the heather is reached and top out. Stake belay
(M.Daly, C.McDaid – 9th June 2007)

The adjoining crack is taken by

10. Floozy in the Jacuzzi 17m VS (4c)
– Climb the crack direct until a rightward facing groove is gained. Climb this and top out through heather. Stake belay.
(M.Daly, C. McDaid – 4th June 2007)

One metre further right is another crack…….

11. Crack Cocaine 17m VS (4c)
– Climb the crack direct to another heather top out. Stake belay.
(M.Daly, C. McDaid – 4th June 2007)