Scalp na gCapail

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This gneiss crag is situated in the Ox mountains in County Sligo (Grid Ref 642278, Sheet 25, Collooney. Take the road from Ballysadare to Ballina. A minor road on the left after two miles and a small lake leads in a short distance to the crag in the town lands of Collooney. Continue along this road to reach Happy Valli crag.

ScalpNaGcapail.jpg

The main feature of the crag is a prominent triangular face split by three obvious crack lines. The leftmost one is taken by

Under the Carpet HS 4b (provisional)
Start 3m left of Moore Street Trader. Climb the bulge and stay left of neighbouring route until joining is necessary at 2/3 height. Finish as per Moore Street Trader.
C Ó Fiannachta, I Krella. May 2017

1. Moore Street Trader 25m HVS (5a)
Climb the left slanting crack to the top. Hard start and finish. Stake belay.
(M. Daly, C. McDaid – 27th April 2007)

The central crack line is taken by

2. Polish Paddy 25m VS (4c)
– Climb the crack through a small roof and follow directly to the top, finishing up a small slabby wall. Stake belay
(M. Daly, C.McDaid – 27th April 2007)

3. Ganger Gaffney 25m E2 (5b)
– Halfway between Polish Paddy & Tweezer, climb through the horizontal break then up a precarious slab (protected by no5 nut in slot) through the faint overlap/break and then up a left trending crack to join the neighbouring routes in the upper section. Stake belay
(M.Daly, C.McDaid - 4th June 2007)

The rightmost crack line is taken by

4. Tweezer 25m VS (4c)
– Climb the crack with an awkward initial section. The route gradually traverses leftwards in the upper section to join the slabby wall of the previous route. Stake belay
(C. McDaid, M. Daly – 27th April 2007)

5. God of Strathyre 13m E1 (5b)
– On the left wall of the right arête of the triangular face, there are two faint crack lines. Climb these with minimal protection until a large scoop is gained. Don’t use the arête!! Belay on the tree on right hand side and abseil off.
(C.McDaid, D. O’Neill –28th April 2007)

6. Postie Pornstar 20m Severe (4a)
– The arête immediately right of God of Strathyre is climbed direct, with a step right at half height. Continue up the arête. Stake belay.
(C.McDaid, M.Daly – 4th June 2007)

Two lines were climbed in the 70’s to the right of this face and are as follows:

7. Hanging Tree Chimney 25m Severe (3a)
– Takes the chimney to the right of the triangular face. Up chimney, step left at the top, good holds to a tree. Continue to the top. Peg belay 3m back from the edge.
(G. Foley – 9th October 1976)

8. Tadpole Creek 25m V Diff
– Start right of Hanging Tree Chimney. Scramble easily leftwards to a heather ledge. Climb a series of cracks and ledges to the top. Peg belay.
(G. Foley – 9th October 1976) Further right there is a wall seamed by three cracks. The first two cracks share a common start before splitting after two metres. The leftmost is taken by

9. Teach Urlar 17m HS (4b)
– Climb the leftward trending blocky crack, traverse right when the heather is reached and top out. Stake belay
(M.Daly, C.McDaid – 9th June 2007)

The adjoining crack is taken by

10. Floozy in the Jacuzzi 17m VS (4c)
– Climb the crack direct until a rightward facing groove is gained. Climb this and top out through heather. Stake belay.
(M.Daly, C. McDaid – 4th June 2007)

One metre further right is another crack…….

11. Crack Cocaine 17m VS (4c)
– Climb the crack direct to another heather top out. Stake belay.
(M.Daly, C. McDaid – 4th June 2007)