Rock of Curry

From Irish Climbing Online Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search

Summary

This southfacing crag (GR N 4450 7600) is situated north west of the village of Castlepollard. The rock is cherty limestone of the bricklieve formation and has a lot of pockets so tri cams and cams are useful.

Approach

From castlepollard take the R395 towards coole, after 3.5 km turn right follow this to a T junction and turn right, after two km turn left follow this for a further one km and turn left down a cul de sac. park at the end of this and follow a track that starts between two gates. After about one km turn right up the track and follow this until it ends. Go straight through the forest to the crag which can be seen from the end of the track.The routes are described from left to right.

Alternatively, the farm cul de sac is on the right 7km from Castlepollard on the Finea\Cavan road, you pass a road turn to the left which is sign posted for McMyler Sawmills, it's about 1km past this before the forest begins.

Access

Update 20 June 2013

The crag is very attractive looking from the road, being up on a height, much more so than the topo picture suggests.

On parking up we were approached by the landowner who was very courteous and knew of no previous climbing on the rock. To get to the crag, which is on his land, one has to pass right through his farm. If any claim was made against him his farm would be shutdown so climbing is strictly prohibited unless the climbers can produce a solicitor's letter saying they are responsible for themselves. T Corcoran (boardtc) has the contacts details of the landlord should anyone need them.

Routes

1.Bombay Brambles VS 4c 30m
Starts below a wide crack that splits the southface. Scramble up grassy ledges to bottom of crack, follow this overcoming any difficulties by the right hand side. Finish up the face. B.Seery, H.Hennessy 9/5/2010

2.Billy Goat's Gruff E1 5a 30m
Start five meters right of Bombay Brambles. Climb up to a short roof with a leftwards crack running through it. Make a hard move through the roof and finish up on easier ground. J.Redmond, D.Carolan 9/5/2010

3.Decs route HS 4b 30m
Two meters right of Billy Goat's Gruff is a wide crack follow this to a ledge at ten meters step left and climb the groove to top. D.Carolan, J.Redmond 9/5/2010

4.bird of prey HS 4b 30m

start two meters right of Decs route. Climb to the right of a tree at half height passing a stacked pile of death blocks. H.Hennessy, C.Seery 8/5/2010

5. arete dream hvs 5a 30m
climb the arete on its left hand side. a worthwhile route. H.Hennessy,B.Seery 9/5/2010

6.into the wild VS 4c 30m
start two meters right of arete dream. climb up to the base of a large rightword trending crack follow this up to a short corner climb this passing some ivy to the top. H.Hennessy 8/5/2010

7.gerrys route 1 E2 5c 25m
climbs the face two meters right of into the wild. climb up to the base of the rightword trending crack. climb over a small roof to a short crack make a hard move to gain a ledge. belay of larger ledge above and scramble to top. G.Fogg,C.Ennis,H.Hennessy 22/1/2011 Onsight

8.gerrys route 2 E1 5b 25m
Excellent climbing which climbs through the widest part of the roof. start five meters right of the arete climb up to the roof and finish up the faint crackline on the face above.belay on ledge and scramble to the top. G.Fogg,H.Hennessy,C.Ennis 22/1/2011 Onsight

9.august rush HS 4b 30m
Start up a left facing corner below the finishing corner of into the wild. climb up to a large roof and traverse right onto the face finish straight up. H.Hennessy,C.Seery 8/8/2010
10. korma HVS 5a 18m
when you emerge from the forest the first part of the cliff you see is short and steep. this line climbs the center of this. start below a short rightword trending flake that starts at half height. follow this to the ledge and climb the left side of the wall above. H.Hennessy,C.Ennis,G.fogg 22/1/2011

Topo

Curry topo.jpg