Rathborney Valley

From Irish Climbing Online Wiki

Jump to: navigation, search

RATHBORNEY VALLEY / CROAGH NORTH

Malcolm O'Beirn comments:

"We did a few routes. One of them was Jack in the Box, I'm not sure from the guide if you or Conor have done it already, if so apologies I didn't have the guide with me. I would confirm the grade. Its a nice wee route with a bit of everything in its short length. I wouldn't trust any gear in that chimney though.. I also did a route beside it which I ended up on when I backed off my project as I couldn't find any gear. This route is shown as ORANGE in the photos here http://picasaweb.google.com/malcolm.obeirn/Croagh Every hold on it either, bonged, moved or came off. Niall insisted I put in some gear, which probably made me more nervous. the top section goes through a bunch of loose photocopier sized boulders. Its probably S 4a (or E11 4a) NOT RECOMMENDED unless you are tired of life.. I was going to call it Choss Garden Niall also did a route, (Green Line in the centre of the large panorama) which we thought was going to be easy, but was tricky enough. This is up a steep short slab and is probably VS 4c."

interim guide

Note: X=possible new route.

RATHBORNEY VALLEY, Burren, Co. Clare A crag at Croagh North /Burrenwee (near Newtown Castle) in the Rathborney Valley in the Burren directly across the valley from Ail na Cronan (Ailwee, Skull Rock). The crag is very accessible (less than 5 minute walk north from Rathborney valley road. The grades so far vary from V. Diff to HVS and are in general 8 to 15m high. There’s a very distinctive natural rock formation, the Sphinx (or locally known as the hanging rock), in the right hand side of the crag. The crag will be a good alternative to the more exposed crags in the area when the weather’s poor . The crag, which is generally south, south west facing extends for about 450m. The co-ords are 120900E, 205470N and is about 100m OD. This preliminary guide does not mean right of way. Treat rock in places with extreme care (loose). Keep main road and gate entrances clear. Limited parking available at Rathborney graveyard. Up lane to main road turn right and then left up along private farm lane. (permission to access the lands yet to be sought from landowner).

TBC= route topped roped and cleaned, requiring lead. There are several potential new lines to be explored at the crag.

Far Left

1. John Doe* HVS 5a 12m Barry Watts, Conor Warner, April 2004

To the far left of the crag at the bottom of the grass ramp, climb the obvious steep crack at the intersection of the horizontal and vertical crack, past a small overhang on the right and to the top.

2. The Fugitive V. Diff 12m Barry Watts, Radu Toma, April 2010

A few meters to the right of John Doe is an obvious shallow corner. Climb this taking care of some loose / hollow sounding slabs. Take care. Red flowering bush during September.

3. Project

Behind the trees is a 18-20m high cliff. One definite route in corner to right of holly tree at half height. Above are loose large flakes. Care advised. (not climbed yet)

Raven’s Zone

4. Bill MacSway* HS 4b/ 4c 13m Barry Watts , Conor Warner 19/1/04

Start on small block under vertical wall with disjointed slab to right with hand hold. Up to ledge 4b/ 4c. Up to ledge (abandoned nest) under fantastic corner. Climb the corner good gear to top.

5. Dirty Thirty V.Diff 13m Conor Warner, Barry Watts 19/1/04

Start to the right of Bill MacSway up to grass ledge to steep short wall, up to another ledge under steep wall. Up wall to top.

6. Project

To the left of Comet is a smooth steep cliff that leads to good crack and to top. (not climbed yet)

7. Comet* S 4a 10m Malcolm O'Beirn 2005

10m to the right of Bill MacSway is a good corner. Easy at first and then a good steep corner crack with good hand and foot jamming, to the top. Hollow sounding rock towards the top.

8. Boot Size Diff 10m Malcolm O'Beirn 2005

Immediately on the right of Comet is a deep chimney / crack. Body jam to top.

9. Hair Ball, VS 5a 10m Malcolm O'Beirn 2005

To the right of Black hole is a definite arête. Hard opening overhanging moves (5a) using crack on right and thin foot flake on left leads to less steep terrain to the top of Boot Size.

Watts Pillars

10. Bob's route V. Diff 10m Robert Nelson 2005

The broken wall to the left of Jack in the Box.

11. Jack in the Box, HVS 5a 12m Malcolm O'Beirn, Niall McCurry July 2007

When approaching from the farm lane, this obvious route is directly in line. Start on vertical wall at very thin shallow crack. Move to right and up sloping ledge below overhanging chimney. Climb chimney (3-4m) and exit to the right. (The pillars in this area have the appearance of the statues on Easter Island.)

12. Project

Wall to the right of Jack in the box finishing up between overhanging chimney. Little or no gear. Loose Rock at top.

13. Cacophony* VS 5a 12m Barry Watts, Conor Warner April 2004

15m to the right of Jack in the Box is a definite buttress / pillar (ivy covered on the right) . Start on the bottom left of the pillar at steep face / corner. Up Corner with excellent moves and out onto right onto steep face. Move left up onto top of sloping overhang and onto face to the left side of the pillar and use horizontal cracks to finish.

14. Twin Cam S 4a 9m Conor Warner, Barry Watts April 2005

15m to the right of Cacophony slightly up hill is a pair of cracks separated by wide flake. Up this to top using both cracks.

The Sphinx.

To the right of the crag is a fantastic balancing narrow detached block (7m high) on a narrow pedestal, standing proud of the main cliff. This featured “the Sphinx” (locally known as the hanging rock) is the left boundary on the right most section of the crag.

15. Ra Ra Re *VS 4c 9m Barry Watts, Conor Warner April 13th 2008)

An excellent little route at the left end side of the Sphinx Area. Obvious crack / groove to the left of the small bush / tree. Start on small holds on the left and work up into crack and up. Clean.

16. Tut Tut *S 4a 9m TBC

A good route. Obvious crack / groove immediately behind the small bush / tree. Up crack / groove on good holds and small flakes.

17. Cairo-Practor *S 4a 9m Barry Watts, Conor Warner (April 13th 2008)

A good route. Obvious crack / groove immediately to the right of the small bush / tree. Up crack to small overhang in groove. Above easier on clean slope in deep grove cut

18. Seth Upon HS 4b 9m TBC

Tougher than it first looks. Obvious crack / groove immediately to the right of the Cairo-Practor. Up groove to small ledge on left and thin block (yellow) on right. Crux to get above grove onto face and directly to the top. Treat rock with care nearer top. (Small wedge of petrified tree route near top).

19. Seth Up V.Diff 9m TBC

Immediately to the right of Seth Upon in broken looking bay of yellowish rock. (Rock seemed ok on first ascents). Up and move left towards top of Seth Upon

20. Pharaoh’s Prow HS 4c 10m TBC

The left prow of a deep steep narrow gully. Overhanging start onto steep pillar and little ledge with very small holly bush. More easily onto the top.

21. Cleo’s Diff 10m TBC

The deep steep narrow gully behind a tall thin thorn bush. Up carefully taking great care of the much loose rock.

22. Lovely Luxor HS 4b 10m Barry Watts, Conor Warner, April 2008

To the right of Cleo’s is a steep 10m high buttress. At right side of buttress climb into left trending crack after slightly overhanging start. Up steeply to crack to the left of corner and on to the top.

25m to the right from Lovely Luxor near the corner end of the crag is a final clean buttress with three short routes in three bays as follows:

23. Dea-Sceal S 4a 7m TBC

Short Fist wide crack in right side of left bay. Enjoyable.

24. Dusty Rhodes S 4a 8m TBC

Short grove in left side of middle bay. Enjoyable.

25. Arawisha S 4a 8m TBC

Start in corner from block and work out right over slight bulge to top in right bay. Enjoyable.

FAR LEFT 1