Location: The cliff is located at GR F9342 on the western side of the peninsula with Illanmaster marked at its tip. The western side of the peninsula is characterised by three large clefts cutting into the coastline. The route is located on the northern side of the middle cleft, at a point where the 500ft. contour touches the coast.
Approach: about half mile before entering Porturlin, take a small road eastwards. Just past the settlement at Sranataggle, take a smaller road to the left. Follow this road past a turning to the right (the last habitation) to a small lane on the left leading to a derelict house and the coastline beyond. The top of the cliff may be seen from this point. Follow the lane past the house to join the coastline near the lowest of the three clefts. Follow the coast until it is possible to look across the gulf of the middle cleft.
Description: The outer part of the wall opposite is characterised by a series of leftward facing corners in its upper half. The route follows the right hand and most continuous corner, from a ledge located halfway down the cliff and just above the black band. The cliffs overhang continuously and is an extraordinary place to climb at the grade of Hard Severe. However, although the rock is excellent, there is an extremely loose area of steep ground between the top of the climbing and the heathery slopes above. Some of this has recently avalanched over the top of the route, and extreme care should be taken getting on and off the cliff. Suggest abseiling to the top of the route diagonally from the right.
PRE-CAMBRIAN WORLD 50m HS 4b
S. Gallwey, J. Bergin. September 1990
1. 25m. 4a. Climb the corner to belay at a good ledge.
2. 25m. 4b. Continue on up the corner to exit right at the top.