Oysterhaven

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This information is taken from New Climbs 1978.

Oysterhaven (near Kinsale)
Approaching the area from Carrigaline, go through Nohoval and take the first turn on the L, following a cul-de-sac which leads, after two miles, to a farmhouse. There is a track from the farmhouse to the cliff. The climbs are located where the track meets the cliff, and are close together. Easy descent (leaving the climbs on the R) to a rocky platform.
From this platform R to L:
Corner 30ft. Diff.
There is a tricky move on small holds at the start, the rest is easy.
P. Long, W. Gregor. March 1978.
Foam Chimney 45ft. V. Diff.
Easy climbing for 30 ft., leading to a little ledge. Above this the chimney is vertical, with small holds. The crux is getting off the ledge. A little ledge on the R wall may be used to step across the chimney. Good protection.
C. O'Leary, G. O'Regan. March 1978.
Deep Chimney 55ft. S.
A narrow deep chimney for about 25ft. leads onto an open area for about 10ft. to a ledge. The crux is getting off this ledge for the next 10 ft.(vertical). Steep to the top. Going up the R wall is easier near the top. Poor protection.
G. O'Regan, C. O'Leary March 1978.

And here is the guidebook:


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