Oughtdarra

Introduction

The escarpment of Ballyryan continues south-east into the townland of Oughtdarra. Lots of possibilities exist on this escarpment. A 15 minute wall brings one in sight of a cone-shaped grassy hill - Cruach an tS?dhe?in. The crag is to the left of this hill. A standing pillar - An Fear Bréige - is passed on the left when the cliff takes a turn north. The crag and Lysacht's Cave can be seen from this point. Keep left of the thicket. The following routes are located to the south-east of the escarpment at the foot of Lysacht's Cave.

TWEAKIN 20m E3 6a D. O Sullivan 4/6/88. This route climbs the wall and leftward-trending groove left of Plumbline. Start below a short corner 3m left of Plumbline. Climb the corner to a peg. Tweak out left on tinies and then up to reach a ramp. Finish up the groove above.

PLUMBLINE * 20m E1 5b T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 24/4/77. Takes the groove in the middle of the crag with a grassy groove to start. Gain the ledge at 3m and move up to another ledge on the left. Continue up the groove (strenuous) and over the bulge to the ledge. Step right and pull up onto grass.

Direct Finish HVS 5a N. Diamond, Spring 1987. From the highest ledge climb directly up the corner to the top instead of stepping right.

WEEVIL 23m HVS 5a K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/4/77. This route takes the diagonal line 2m right of the central groove. Gain the ledge. Move around the bulge to a small ledge below the overhang then up and across right to the arête. Step down to footholds below a niche. Climb up into the niche to gain a horizontal break. Hand traverse right and pull up onto the ledge (strenuous). Up the corner to the top.

Direct start E1 5c I. Ryan 1984. Climb the steep wall on flaky holds to join Weevil at the end of the traverse below the corner.

ARTFUL DODGER 21m HVS 5a K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/4/77. There is a clean overhanging corner about 13m right of Weevil. This route takes the crack and wall 2m left of the corner behind two trees. Climb the wall and crack to a small ledge at 2m. Continue up on pockets (crux) past a holly bush. Painful. Continue rightwards to the top and a block belay.

WAVY GRAVY 21m E2 5c D. O Sullivan, 4/6/88. Strenuous climbing up the obvious corner between Artful Dodger and Busker. Climb the corner for 10m to jugs on the left wall. Mantel the jugs and finish up the crack above.

BUSKER 21m VS 4c K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/7/77. This climb follows the right edge of the wall 3m right of the corner. Climb up to the ledge on the left. Continue up to the base of a crack (awkward). Climb the crack to the base of the small corner. Climb the corner and steep wall above on good holds to the top.

WALKING THE DOG 21m S 4a K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/7/77. There is a short white corner right of Busker. Layback up the crack to a ledge on the left at 10m. Climb the wall to a ledge and bush. Step left and finish up the wall to top.

About 50m left of Lysacht's Cave there is a small buttress, just past a bushy thicket. Just left of an ivy-clad wall there is a cave-like tunnel at ground level. The next route takes the corner immediately right of the cave.

CAVE CANEM 13m S 4b D. Somers, K. Higgs, 30/4/77. Climb up to a stance below the corner until it is possible to pull out left onto the face. Up this to the top.

An Fear Bréige, the pillar passed on the way to Oughtdarra, is the landmark for two isolated routes.

BABY LOTION 13m HVS 5a N. Thompson, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/93. Start below the small overhang on the south-facing edge of the pillar (An Fear Br?ige). Move up and right to the crack to the right of the overhang. Climb this to the top of the pillar and from here it is possible to reach small holds on the large overhanging buttress next to the pillar. Pull up on these and finish up more easily.

CHRISTY TURLINGTON 6m VS 4c J. Murphy, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/93. The crack in the wide corner 30 or 40m left of Baby Lotion

The Northern Escarpments

Moving back Westwards along the escarpment for 200m from An Fear Bréige leads to anothe short buttress with two climbs:

THICKET TO RIDE 10m E1 5c Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006 The left hand crack

IS THAT IT ? 10m E1 5c Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006 The right hand crack

The next crag is about 600m North of the Thicket to Ride area, follow the crag north until a small wall meets the crag

Left to right Nutstopper crackline Sweep chimney

THERE'S NOTHTING LEFT 16m VS 4c Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007 Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove. Climb up to the apex of the alcove and mount the bulge. From here go straight up. Starts good but be careful with some loose rock higher up.

NUTSTOPPER 16m HS 4b Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999 Crack 2m left of "Sweep" chimney. Up crack to ledge at 2m. Left around slightly overhanging bulge. Up broken crack to finish.

SWEEP 9m S 4b Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999 Chimney 8m left of the alcove. Up back of chimney, onto arête at top. Easy finish

ORLA'S CROSS 10m VS Malcolm O'Beirn Next obvious crackline 4m R of Sweep- looks a bit grassy

TWO WATER MELONS 10m VS 4c Cliff Baxter, Sadbh Baxter, July 2005 Climb the crack 2m left of Bob Marley

BOB MARLEY 10m HVS 5b A stern test in hand jamming which climbs the first crack on the left wall of the alcove Paul Daly, July 2005

HANDS OFF 16m HS 4c Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999 Large alcove 10m north-left of Daisy Days. Climb between the two right trending cracks on the back wall. Step right at 3/4 height ledge to finish up corner. Beware of loose rock.

Variation: finish directly up face from 3/4 height ledge. (SB, toprope)

DAISY DAYS 8m Diff Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999 At southern end of crag, 2m left of where field wall meets crag. Follow obvious left-trending crack onto large ledge at 3/4 height. Up back corner to finish.

Walking from here for 200m north, the escarpment takes a more southerly aspect and increases in height. A grassy descent ramp splits the two buttresses.

Right of the grassy descent (as you look in) a few routes have been climbed on the West facing wall. Climbs are listed from Left to Right.

SITE PASS 10m VS 4b/4c Radu Toma, Barry Watts 26th September 2010 Start up a steep thinelow crack, after about 5 metres (before the going gets grassy) traverse 1 m right and climb the cracked wall to the top.

GROUNDWORKS 10m S Barry Watts, Radu Toma 26th September 2010 About 5 m's right and downhill from SITE PASS there is an obvious interesting groove system, climb the left hand side and veer right at the samll tree root below the top.

CONSTRUCTION SITE 10m VS 4c/5a Radu Toma, Barry Watts 26th September 2010 Start 2 m's right of GROUNDWORKS, Follow the obvious thin crack line which features a strenous steep start.

Across the grassy gully the escarpment now faces South, Climbs are listed from Right to Left.

MERIDIAN 12m E3 5C ** Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy August 2011 (On Sight) The route takes the striking crack line between the grassy descent gully and Emily’s Route. Use good hand holds and a bomber wire to protect the mantelshelf onto the ledge at the base of the thin layback crack. Good cams protect the base of the crack and micro wires protect the rest. Use undercuts to start climbing the crack and footholds on the left wall. Bridge and layback up the thin crack. Exit right. Great route

EMILY'S ROUTE 16m HS Emma Glanville, July 2005 On the right side of the buttress to the right of a heavily ivy clad area, there is a protrouding wall which is scooped in the centre. Climb this scoop and trend rightwards to finish.

ASTRONOMY DOMINE 15m VS 4C Peter Wood, Gerry Galligan October 2011 Start in a niche, 3 metres to the left of Emily's Route. Climb the right sloping crack above, and follow the crack above as it trends more vertically upwards. Finish directly above the start of Emily's route.

Moving along brings you to the cleared area of rock. The next routes take right trending ramps and the steep upper wall.

SCATTERY LEDGE 18m HS Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy August 2011 This is a nice route similar to but easier then Ballynalacken. Climb corners and ramps trending right to a big ledge. Bridge up the steep corner to the top.

BALLYNALACKEN 20m VS 4c Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007 Follow the ramp system, passing a section of ivy to a high corner and stance. From here climb directly to the top.

ARNHEM 16m VS 4c Paul Daly, July 2005 5 m right of the descent ramp, climb superb flakey crack to a ramp leading rigthwards at two third height. Ascend ramp and groove to finish. Direct Start: 2m left of Ballynalacken, a short groove leads to a ramp below a nice looking finger crack. Climb this and pull up onto the upper ramp of Arnhem. Finish as for that route (HVS 5b).

HULALOOPER 14m VDiff Start 3m's left of Arnhem below a scruffy looking crack

The next two routes take the crack lines on the short buttress to the left of the descent ramp.

TEFLON CRACK 10m S Cliff Baxter, July 2005. Climb offwidth using wide bridging, Hard at the start.

TEFLON LEFT HAND 10m VS 4c Cliff Baxter, July 2005. Climb crack 1m left of Teflon Crack

Leaba Na hAon Bho

The next few routes are found on a wall a few minutes further inland. The wall has a lot of potential and will be getting a bit more attention this summer as there plenty more routes to go with a good variety of difficulty and alot of it on quite nice rock. I know this place has been visited before so if any of the following have been previously climbed then just edit it in

Approach: Climb the grassy ramp between Arnhem and Central Areas. The wall should be instantly visible to the east.

100m to the left of the lightning shaped crack is a buttress with several vertical crack lines about 8m high. Several routes have been climbed to date.

ROCK AND ROLL HVS 5B Dermot Shiels and Ciaran Cleary September 2011 Climb the steep groove and vertical crack on the left hand side of the buttress to a ledge left of the overhang. Step right and climb the featured wall to a spacious belay ledge above.

YOUNGLING HVS 5B Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy August 2011 The fist and hand jamming crack on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the crack up to the overhang and take the right hand crack through the overhang.

The next 2 climbs are found on a large detached pillar 40m left of the lightning crack butress.

THE BALROG E1 5C ** Dermot Shiels and Ciaran Cleary September 2011 Climb the arrete of the large detached pillar. After a boulder start, protect the next hard moves with a sling on a flake hold left of the arete. Nice climbing on very thin layback flakes to get to the top.

??? VS Ciaran Cleary and Dermot Shiels September 2011 Climbs the face to the right of The Balrog.

Left of the main buttress, there is a small wall, indentifable by a large lightning shaped crack on it's right hand end.

THE GRAPES OF WRATH VS 4b 8m P. Wood, G. Galligan, July 2011 2 metres to the left of the lightning bolt is a large sloping chimney, capped by a large block. Start from the top of a detached block, about 2 metres left of the open chimney. Climb the flake strenuosuly. Not much gear, and when you think it's over it isn't.

JUGS GALORE VS 4C Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan 02/08/2011 This climb is 16m left of GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH on a pillar with hazel bushes in front and descent gully behind, start 4m from the left of the pillar. Climb through a small over hang using a hidden hand hold, good holds and gear all the way to the top.

HIGH STEP VS 4C Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan 02/08/2011 this is 2m right of JUGS GALORE pull up through another small over hang up the crack to the top

GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH HS 4b C. Hogan, D. Gallagher, June 2011 Couple of metres left of 'Wheels within wheels'. Start at the wall and climb up to the flake. Reach left to good holds on the bulge and pull up. Continue up slab to top. (wouldn't be 100% sure on the grade)

WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS S John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005 10 m's left of Nervoous Laughter there is a buttress of excellent quality less steep rock. Climb the striking left hand crack steeply at first to the top.

KARMIC RETRIBUTION VS 4b Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 17th July 2011 Follows the interesting rib 1 m right of Wheels within Wheels to the top.

PADDY THE PLASTERER S John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005 right of wheels within wheels the butress becomes smooth and cracked. Start at the bottom right hand corner (or the more intrepid can start lower down on the left and make bouldery moves to monster jugs) whuch lead up to a small ledge at mid height. Marvel at the smooth nature of the rock ! Interesting moves on solid rock bring you past the almost crucifix like cracks to the top.

STALL THE DIGGER D John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005 Takes the easy angled corner-groove on the right hand side to the top.

SACRED COW VD Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 16th July 2011 Follows the rib 1 m right of Stall the Digger to the top

GOLDEN CIRCLE S Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan 16th July 2011 Start a few metres left of the cave entrance, follow the obvious narrow crack line over a few small ledges to the top

From left to right: (Routes are marked in red dots that are kinda hard to see. Enlarge the image for a better look) The previous three routes are visible on the far left of the photo.

NERVOUS LAUGHTER: E1 5a Colm Shannon, Darragh O'Conghaile, 2009 Strenous and awkward climbing to start following the crack up half way before moving leftward. Finish on better holds.

GRINGO'S ESCAPE: 6a HighBall Problem Colm Shannon, 2009 Interesting start on a thin crack to gain good hold 3m up. From here strenuous moves to gain under cut and then grassy ledge. Another ledge about a foot up allows you to bring up your feet and finish relatively easily from here.

FACE PLANT: HVS 4c/5a ** Clive Cusack, Jeff Ringrose, September 2005 Enjoyable lay backing to start up to the point where crack widens. Here gain good hold on right of crack, step up on onto a small notch and reach for high hold out left(crux). Easier Finish.

COCO: E1 5B* Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary 25th July 2011 Climbs the overhanging groove 8m right of Face Plant. Layback the thin crack up to a good hold on the rib to the right of the overhanging groove. Pull through to easier climb ing above.

CRUBEEN: VS 4C* Dermot Shiels, Radu Toma 25th July 2011 Nice shallow corner with layback crack 3m right of Coco, with a tricky move near the top.

LICK THE BLOOD: HS 4b Radu Toma, Dermot Shiels 25th July 2011 Climbs the arette (with a laybacking crack) 2m left of The Mad Vet. Easy start with good protection, step right and prepare to layback from half way all the way to the top.

THE MAD VET VS 4c Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 17th July 2011 Takes the short wide crack on the right of the buttress. The rock is solid but be prepared for a strenuous exit to finish.

KING OF THE FAIRIES HS 4b Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 17th July 2011. Six metres right of The Mad Vet and facing a holly tree and boulder there is a corner capped by a triangular overhang. Climb the corner branching out steeply right to finish. Variation: Direct Finish HS 4b Gerry Galligan, Peter Wood 31st July 2011. Climb the corner up to and left of the overhang.

NONO: E1 5B* Dermot Shiels, Niamh McGreen 26th July 2011 Climbs the finger cracks 2m right of King of the Fairies. Climb the finger cracks to reach a thin flake to the right where the cracks end. Pull up on small face holds to reach better holds above.

Mitch on Mitchin Impossible

TOILET TIME VD Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller 7/02/2010 Climb the left corner

MITCHIN IMPOSSIBLE * HS 4b Mitch Miller, Darragh Conneely 07/02/2010 Follow middle crack.

BACK IN THE SHIT ** HVS 5a Colm Shannon, Darragh Conneely 07/02/2010 Make some hard moves off the ground to get a big hold on top of the block wedged in the crack. From here use the crack and crimps to the left to finish up.

SOFT LANDING - HVS 5a - Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller 07/02/2010 Difficult moves to get over the buldge at the start.

THE REACH ** E1/2 6a Colm Shannon, Un-seconded 07/02/2010 Start to the left of the slab with both hands on a sharp pocket (where my left foot is in picture). From here step up onto high holds and stand tall, leaning into the slab, before reaching far to the right for the feature. After this, much easier climbing leads to the top. Note: This will probably not be possible for people of short to average stature :-)

MIND YOUR MONKEY BONE VS 4C Ciaran Cleary, Brian Mcarthy 30/07/2011 This start 4m right of THE REACH on a pillar with a stone wall at the base on it, start to the left of the wall bouldering start on OK gear to reach a lay back to good holds to the top.