The townland of Oughtdarra is an area riven with limestone cliffs, canyons, vegetated thickets and limestone pavements. The best approach to the climbing areas is to walk inland (Eastwards) from the lay by at Ailladie over limestone pavements and rock steps, a 15 minute walk should bring you to the Northern Buttress. From here it is best to walk South along the escarpment to reach the other areas. Other possibilities may look tantalisingly close on a map but thick deep vegetation and canyons will make progress slow and tiring. It has taken some parties up to 1.5 hours to reach the Lysacht’s Cave area.
View of Northern Buttress from Central Area
This wall faces south and runs west to east, with routes going left to right.
SPICY 10m HVS 5a Stephen McGowan, John Howard, March 2009 Climb the arête and crack 3m left of Teflon Left Hand.
TEFLON LEFT HAND 10m VS 4c Cliff Baxter, July 2005. Climb crack 1m left of Teflon Crack
TEFLON CRACK 10m S Cliff Baxter, July 2005. Climb offwidth using wide bridging, Hard at the start.
THE SOUND OF ONE LEG BRIDGING 9m HS Dermot O'Dwyer, Petra Tolarová 15/04/17. Climb the wide crack in the middle to the ledge. Climb up the centre of the wall above to a thin crack.
A BECKONING CRACK 9m VDiff Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 15/04/17. Start just right of blocks resting against arête where dry stone wall meets the buttress. Climb to ledge at 3m, then up the crack on left-hand wall.
The next few routes take the crack lines on the short buttress to the left of the descent ramp.
GRACEFUL ELEPHANT 8m HS K.Sloan, E.Prendergast. Spring 2013. Climb is located behind a pillar. Climb the wall to a thin crack at half height.
OGONNELLOE BURGER 8m VD Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin 17/09/17 Located behind the pillar. Climb the crack from bottom to top using the pillar to bridge. Not climbed yet without using the pillar.
PETIT CAFÉ 6m VDiff Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 15/04/17. Climb is on the wall facing into the descent gully, climb crack with small ledges at the start.
Right of the descent gully there are two corners.
WILL IT GO? 14 VD K.Sloan, L.Calnan. Spring 2013 Start 2m's left of Hulalooper climb up open corner stepping left to ledge, move left up a broken corner to finish.
Direct finish HS B Watts C Rice 6/9/2015. climb directly up fist sized crack.
HULALOOPER 14m VD Follow the pleasant cracked ramp 3m's left of Arnhem
Moving along brings you to the cleared area of rock. The next routes take right trending ramps and steep walls.
ARNHEM 16m VS 4c Paul Daly, July 2005 5 m's right of the descent ramp, climb superb flakey crack to a ramp leading rightwards at two third height. Ascend ramp and groove to finish. Direct Start HVS 5b 2m left of Ballynalacken, a short groove leads to a ramp below a nice looking finger crack. Climb this and pull up onto the upper ramp of Arnhem. Finish as for that route .
BALLYNALACKEN 20m VS 4c Peter Owens, Marcin Ostasz, May 2007 Follow the ramp system, passing a section of ivy to a high corner and stance. From here climb directly to the top.
SCATTERY LEDGE 18m HS Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy August 2011 This is a nice route similar to but easier then Ballynalacken. Climb corners and ramps trending right to a big ledge. Bridge up the steep corner to the top.
FREE RADICAL 20m VS 4c Gerry Galligan, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017 Takes the high steep corner 5 m's right of Scattery Ledge. Climb the pock-marked slab to gain a grassy ledge. Negotiate your way through the right-trending ramp of vegetation to gain the base of the clean corner crack. Move steeply up the crack to finish.
ROCKET MAN 16m S Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017 8m right of free radical (and the jungle). there is a large protrouding flake at one third height, Follow the right ward trending line of cracks and ledges past good holds on the flake/rocket, climb directly upwards to finish over a small overhang.
ASTRONOMY DOMINE 15m VS 4c Peter Wood, Gerry Galligan October 2011 Start in a niche, 3 m's to the left of Emily's Route. Climb the right sloping crack above, and follow the crack above as it trends more vertically upwards. Finish directly above the start of Emily's route.
EMILY'S ROUTE 16m HS Emma Glanville, July 2005 On the right side of the buttress to the right of a heavily ivy clad area, there is a protrouding wall which is scooped in the centre. Climb this scoop and trend rightwards to finish.
BALLYGOBACKWARDS 16m HS Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 15/9/2017 Takes the wall and cracks right of Emily’s Routes. Start just left of the gully and climb diagonally leftwards to a prickly ledge, move right up a shallow corner to the top.
The gully to the right has been climbed by C Peppard and B Watts on 15/9/2017 at S, The climbing on it is a bit dull and it still has some big dubious blocks in it, Move on!
MERIDIAN 12m E3 5c ** Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy August 2011 (On Sight) The route takes the striking crack line between the grassy descent gully and Emily’s Route. Use good hand holds and a bomber wire to protect the mantelshelf onto the ledge at the base of the thin layback crack. Good cams protect the base of the crack and micro wires protect the rest. Use undercuts to start climbing the crack and footholds on the left wall. Bridge and layback up the thin crack. Exit right. Great route
THE RISING 20m HS 4b Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, Niamh McGreen, 16/4/2017 Traces a line on the right edge of the Meridian wall. Start 5m's right of Meridian, below a left-facing, right-trending, corner-crack. Climb up to a grassy ledge. Move up the slab on your left by the thin crack for 4m's. Traverse right to a ledge and climb the blocky face above via cracks and small ledges.
100 m's further east and across the grassy gully the escarpment faces west.
This wall faces west and runs north to south, with routes going left to right or southwards.
SITE PASS 10m VS 4b/4c Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010 Start up a steep thin crack, after about 5 m's (before the going gets grassy) traverse 1 m right and climb the cracked wall to the top
SKIP FOR HIRE 10m HS 4b Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017 Takes the steep crackline 2m right of Site Pass.
RUBBLE ROULETTE 10m HS 4b Barry Watts, Colm Peppard, 16/9/2017 Takes the steep crackline 2m right of Skip for Hire.
GROUNDWORKS 10m S Barry Watts, Radu Toma, 26th September 2010 About 5 m's right and downhill from SITE PASS there is an obvious interesting groove system, climb the left hand side and veer right at the samll tree root below the top.
CONSTRUCTION SITE 10m VS 4c/5a Radu Toma, Barry Watts, 26th September 2010 Start 2 m's right of GROUNDWORKS, Follow the obvious thin crack line which features a strenous steep start.
BUCKAROO 10m HS 4c Barry Watts, Conor Warner, 16th August 2015 Just right of Construction Site there is a small overhang at 2 m's height. Start at the right hand side of this overhang 3 m's further right of the last route and pull up strenuously onto a narrow ledge. Continue more easily up the cracked slab, for added interest veer left along the edge to finish.
5m's further on there is
TRIBAL GOATS 10m HS 4a Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 20th July 2014 10m's right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side. Start at the left-hand crack, to under the overlap and traverse right to the corner. continuing up the corner to the top.
BROKEBANK MOUNTAIN 10m HS 4a Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014 10m's right of Construction Site and to the right of the hanging slab and overhangs there are two slim cracks side by side, follow the right-hand crack line directly to the top.
ACTING THE GOAT 10m D Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 20th July 2014 3m's right of Brokebank Mountain climb the cracked wall to a ledge and scramble leftwards along this to finish.
About 100 m's further south there is Canyon Buttress.
ROCKERY 10m D Mark Standbridge 18th August 2013 In the central part of the wall there are three parallel crack lines. This takes the left-hand one. Climb the twin cracks direct.
OUT ON THE WESTERN PLAIN HS 4b Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 5/6/2016 Start just below and right of the flake-sided hanging chimney. Avoid the loose, hanging flake and climb the cracked and featured wall on the right to the top.
BLADE RUNNER 12m S 4a Mark Standbridge, Rob Mullett 18th August 2013 This route takes the crack and left hand side of the sharp-angled arête directly above. Take care with the loose ‘paving slab’ about half way up the route.
PRE OP 13m HS 4a Rob Mullett, Pat Lombard 6th July 2014 2m's left of blade runner start at the twin cracks following the main crack line up and then trend left towards the capstone. Take care with loose rocks.
GRAND CANYON 15m VD * Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan 20th July 2014 Right of the Blade Runner arete there is another obvious arête, Climb the clean cracked wall 1 m left of this arête directly to the top.
BONANZA 15m S Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 20th July 2014 A companion piece for Grand Canyon. Starts as for Grand Canyon but takes the next right-hand corner. Climb this directly to the top.
Walking from here for 300m southwards, the escarpment descreases and increases in height at a steep unclimbed wall, further on there are lines of weakness.
THERE'S NOTHTING LEFT 16m VS 4c Malcolm O'Beirn, Peter Owens, May 2007 Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove. Climb up to the apex of the alcove and mount the bulge. From here go straight up. Starts good but be careful with some loose rock higher up.
THERE'S NOTHING RIGHT 17m S 4a Rob Mullett, Niamh McGreen, 29th Sep 2012 Start 3m left of NUTSTOPPER in an alcove at the same point as THERE'S NOTHING LEFT. Climb up to the alcove until the apex but deviate diagonally right along the obvious crack line and then follow this straight up to the finish.
NUTSTOPPER 16m HS 4b Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999 Crack 2m left of "Sweep" chimney. Up crack to ledge at 2m. Left around slightly overhanging bulge. Up broken crack to finish.
SWEEP 9m S 4b Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999 Chimney 8m left of the alcove. Up back of chimney, onto arête at top. Easy finish
ORLA's CROSS 10m VS Malcolm O'Beirn Next obvious crackline 4m R of Sweep - looks a bit grassy (04/2013 - ivy on the top part masking a crack). Tougher than it looks. Sustained climbing, till reaching the grassy ledge, half way.
TWO WATER MELONS 10m VS 4c Cliff Baxter, Sadbh Baxter, July 2005 Climb the crack 2m left of Bob Marley. Bold start, with good protection, so use it.
BOB MARLEY 10m HVS 5b Paul Daly, July 2005. A stern test in hand jamming which climbs the first crack on the left wall of the alcove
HANDS OFF 16m HS 4c Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999 Large alcove 10m north-left of Daisy Days. Climb between the two right trending cracks on the back wall. Step right at 3/4 height ledge to finish up corner. Beware of loose rock.
Variation: finish directly up face from 3/4 height ledge. (SB, toprope)
ONE FOR THE ROAD 16m HS 4b Niamh McGreen, Rob Mullett, 29th Sept 2012 Start 1m right of Hands Off below a thin crack curving to the left. Climb this with the help of a good flake on the left. Step slightly left to finish up the short wall.
THEX MHEX HS Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová 17/04/17. Climb obvious crack on left hand side. Finish directly up left-hand side of face above large ledge. Only a little bit spicy.
REX HEX LIZ 15m HS 4b Marty McCarthy, Valerie Hayes, 5th August 2012: Start at small grass ramp, 5m left of Daisy Days, directly to and through the vertical crack. Balance, gain large ledge. Finish up corner on right (as for Daisy Days). Variation: Finish directly up face left of corner.
DAISY DAYS 16m D Brian Callaghan, Sadhbh Baxter, 11th July 1999 At southern end of crag, 2m left of where field wall meets crag. Follow obvious left-trending crack onto large ledge at 3/4 height. Up back corner to finish.
The next crag is about 300m south of Daisy Days you pass over a dry stone wall with a cone shaped hill on your right.
An Fear Bréige
This area faces South and is West of Lysacht’s Cave, it is marked by a short buttress with five climbs on the left, there is a short steep gully containing a dry stone wall bordering it on the right. Moving back eestwards along the escarpment for 200m there is a free standing pillar An Fear Bréige which is beneath a large overhang.
Routes are listed from left to right West to East.
RAM RAID 10m S Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. This climb takes a series of steep ledges left of the square overhang. Start at the wide crack and climb steeply to gain the ledge/jammed boulder, finish directly up the thin crack. Avoid the easier lines on the left.
THICKET TO RIDE 10m E1 5c Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. The left hand crack
IS THAT IT ? 10m E1 5c Peter Owens, Vera Quinlan, August 2006. The right hand crack
COUNTERPOINT 10m E2 6a Paul Daly, Ronan Keane, 6 October 2012. Move leftwards to gain the base of the thin Z shaped crack. Move up and leftwards to gain sloping ledge (crux) and thence to top.
DÚN NA SIÓGA 8m S Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 17/9/2016. Climb the crack 1m right of the dry stone wall in the gully.
FLIGHT RISK 8m S Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016. Climb the thin crack 6m right of DÚN NA SIÓGA, start off a high grassy ledge.
BALLAI NA DOONAUNMORE HS 4b Gerry Galligan, Paul McCabe, 17/9/2016 Bridge up between the 6m detached pillar and the right wall, gain the ledge on the right and finish up the cracked wall above.
LONE STAR VS 4c ** Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 5/6/2016 20m right of Thicket to Ride there is a 6m detached pillar leaning against the rock face. This fine route takes the clean, twin to single, crack line, 5m right of this pillar.
PADDYWHACKERY 12m S Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 26/9/2015. 20m's left of CHRISTY TURLINGTON and 6m right of a wall there is an overhanging nose of rock. Start to the left of the nose, climb as far as the overhanging corner, Traverse left for 3 metres and finish up the flake crack.
OBAIR NA SIÓGA 10m HS Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. Start as for Paddy Whackery and continue up the overhanging corner.
MATCHMAKER 10m S Barry Watts, Paul McCabe, Gerry Galligan, 17/9/2016. Climb the wall and corner 3m's right of Paddywhackery and the nose of rock. Steep start.
CHRISTY TURLINGTON 10m VS 4c J. Murphy, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/93. The crack in the wide corner 30 or 40m's left of Baby Lotion.
BABY LOTION 13m HVS 5a N. Thompson, P. Aylmer-Hall, 3/9/93. Start below the small overhang on the south-facing edge of the pillar (An Fear Breige). Move up and right to the crack to the right of the overhang. Climb this to the top of the pillar and from here it is possible to reach small holds on the large overhanging buttress next to the pillar. Pull up on these and finish up more easily.
200m east of An Fear Breige there is.
Lysacht's Cave area
The highest and oldest developed cliff at Oughtdarra is also the most Southerly, unfortunately the approach route (after passing an Fear Breige) is virtually blocked due to shoulder high vegetation.
TWEAKIN 20m E3 6a D. O Sullivan 4/6/88. This route climbs the wall and leftward-trending groove left of Plumbline. Start below a short corner 3m left of Plumbline. Climb the corner to a peg. Tweak out left on tinies and then up to reach a ramp. Finish up the groove above.
PLUMBLINE * 20m E1 5b T. Ryan, K. Higgs, 24/4/77. Takes the groove in the middle of the crag with a grassy groove to start. Gain the ledge at 3m and move up to another ledge on the left. Continue up the groove (strenuous) and over the bulge to the ledge. Step right and pull up onto grass.
Direct Finish HVS 5a N. Diamond, Spring 1987. From the highest ledge climb directly up the corner to the top instead of stepping right.
WEEVIL 23m HVS 5a K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/4/77. This route takes the diagonal line 2m right of the central groove. Gain the ledge. Move around the bulge to a small ledge below the overhang then up and across right to the arête. Step down to footholds below a niche. Climb up into the niche to gain a horizontal break. Hand traverse right and pull up onto the ledge (strenuous). Up the corner to the top.
Direct start E1 5c I. Ryan 1984. Climb the steep wall on flaky holds to join Weevil at the end of the traverse below the corner.
ARTFUL DODGER 21m HVS 5a K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/4/77. There is a clean overhanging corner about 13m right of Weevil. This route takes the crack and wall 2m left of the corner behind two trees. Climb the wall and crack to a small ledge at 2m. Continue up on pockets (crux) past a holly bush. Painful. Continue rightwards to the top and a block belay.
WAVY GRAVY 21m E2 5c D. O Sullivan, 4/6/88. Strenuous climbing up the obvious corner between Artful Dodger and Busker. Climb the corner for 10m to jugs on the left wall. Mantel the jugs and finish up the crack above.
BUSKER 21m VS 4c K. Higgs, D. Somers, 30/7/77. This climb follows the right edge of the wall 3m right of the corner. Climb up to the ledge on the left. Continue up to the base of a crack (awkward). Climb the crack to the base of the small corner. Climb the corner and steep wall above on good holds to the top.
WALKING THE DOG 21m S 4a K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 24/7/77. There is a short white corner right of Busker. Layback up the crack to a ledge on the left at 10m. Climb the wall to a ledge and bush. Step left and finish up the wall to top.
About 50m right of Lysacht's Cave there is a small buttress, just past a bushy thicket. Just left of an ivy-clad wall there is a cave-like tunnel at ground level. The next route takes the corner immediately right of the cave.
CAVE CANEM 13m S 4b D. Somers, K. Higgs, 30/4/77. Climb up to a stance below the corner until it is possible to pull out left onto the face. Up this to the top.
Leaba na hAon Bhó
The next set of routes are found on a wall a few minutes further East/Inland from Northern Buttress. Approach: Climb the grassy ramp/gully between Northern Buttress and Central Areas. The wall should be instantly visible to the east.
North of ROCK AND ROLL a stone wall meets a detached pillar. The chimney to the left when looking at the cliff face is Chimney of Doom.
CHIMNEY OF DOOM D Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch 12 August 2017 Easy chimney.
Just to the north of Chimney of Doom is a small face with an obvious cross shape formed by intersecting horizontal and vertical cracks.
GRAZED KNUCKLE D Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman 12 August 2017 Climb the central crack.
WOUNDED KNEE D Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin, Sara Lynch 12 August 2017 The corner on the left hand side of the face.
100m to the left of the lightning shaped crack is a buttress with several vertical crack lines about 8m high. Several routes have been climbed to date.
ROCK AND ROLL HVS 5b Dermot Shiels and Ciaran Cleary September 2011 Climb the steep groove and vertical crack on the left hand side of the buttress to a ledge left of the overhang. Step right and climb the featured wall to a spacious belay ledge above.
YOUNGLING HVS 5b Dermot Shiels, Brian McCarthy August 2011 The fist and hand jamming crack on the right hand side of the buttress. Climb the crack up to the overhang and take the right hand crack through the overhang.
Left of the main buttress, there is a small wall, indentifable by a large lightning shaped crack on it's right hand end.
THE GRAPES OF WRATH VS 4b 8m P. Wood, G. Galligan, July 2011 2 metres to the left of the lightning bolt is a large sloping chimney, capped by a large block. Start from the top of a detached block, about 2 metres left of the open chimney. Climb the flake strenuosuly. Not much gear, and when you think it's over it isn't.
FANTAPANTS S 14m Gerry Galligan, Jindra Kaplicka, Barry Watts, 7th July 2012 6m to the right of the lightening strike, next to a drystone wall, is an obvious protruding ridge. Climb the ridge. Purists will avoid the boulders at base.
The next 2 climbs are found on a large detached pillar 40m right of the lightning crack butress.
THE BALROG E1 5c ** Dermot Shiels and Ciaran Cleary September 2011 Climb the arrete of the large detached pillar. After a boulder start, protect the next hard moves with a sling on a flake hold left of the arete. Nice climbing on very thin layback flakes to get to the top.
JACK IN THE BOX VS Ciaran Cleary and Dermot Shiels September 2011 Climbs the face to the right of The Balrog.
About 15m's to the right there is another pillar, there is a handy descent behind.
JUGS GALORE VS 4c Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan 02/08/2011 This climb is 16m left of GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH on a pillar with hazel bushes in front and descent gully behind, start 4m from the left of the pillar. Climb through a small over hang using a hidden hand hold, good holds and gear all the way to the top.
HIGH STEP VS 4c Ciaran Cleary, Cian Hogan 02/08/2011 this is 2m right of JUGS GALORE pull up through another small over hang up the crack to the top
10 m's further on there is a smooth cracked clean buttress that is 30m's long before it ends in a cave/rift.
GOTTA SCRATCH AN ITCH HS 4b C. Hogan, D. Gallagher, June 2011 Couple of metres left of 'Wheels within wheels'. Start at the wall and climb up to the flake. Reach left to good holds on the bulge and pull up. Continue up slab to top. (wouldn't be 100% sure on the grade)
WHEELS WITHIN WHEELS S Radu Toma, Barry Watts, Keith Nevin, 28th May 2011 10 m's left of Nervoous Laughter there is a buttress of excellent quality less steep rock. Climb the striking left hand crack steeply at first to the top.
KARMIC RETRIBUTION VS 4b Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 17th July 2011 Follows the interesting rib 1 m right of Wheels within Wheels to the top.
PADDY THE PLASTERER S John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005 right of wheels within wheels the butress becomes smooth and cracked. Start at the bottom right hand corner (or the more intrepid can start lower down on the left and make bouldery moves to monster jugs) whuch lead up to a small ledge at mid height. Marvel at the smooth nature of the rock ! Interesting moves on solid rock bring you past the almost crucifix like cracks to the top.
STALL THE DIGGER D John Ringrose, Jeff Ringrose, Georgina Quain, September 2005 Takes the easy angled corner-groove on the right hand side to the top.
SACRED COW D Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 16th July 2011 Follows the rib 1 m right of Stall the Digger to the top
DONDAGE D Don Bosco Rogers, Tracy Smith 13th April 2015 About 2m to the right of Sacred Cow, looks like a step, loose rocks, trends to the left, not the first ascent
JINGLE MAIL VS 4c Barry Watts, Jindra Kaplicka, Gerry Galligan, 7th July 2012 An eliminate going up the right-hand side of slab, 3m right of Sacred Cow. Gain the eliminate, small pock-marks to large, left-trending line of weakness. Finish directly.
GOLDEN CIRCLE S Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan 16th July 2011 Start a few m's left of the cave entrance, follow the obvious narrow crack line over a few small ledges to the top
DO BOTHER VD Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin 27/05/2017 Start at bottom of Golden Circle but climb the outside face using the large flake.
MAYBE BOTHER VD Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman 27/05/2017 Start as for Golden Circle. Traverse to Don't Bother at about 3m.
DON'T BOTHER VD Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin 27/05/2017 Climb crack immediately left of the chimney to ledge at 3m and follow to top.
LICK MORE BLOOD HS Radu Toma, Stephen Bender, Aug 2012 Climb the arete (left layback moves), left of "NERVOUS LAUGHTER", on very sharp holds up to an obvious crack with good hand holds and good protection. From here easy scramble to the top, and over the chimney.
From left to right:
NERVOUS LAUGHTER: E1 5a Colm Shannon, Darragh O'Conghaile, 2009 Strenous and awkward climbing to start following the crack up half way before moving leftward. Finish on better holds.
GRINGO'S ESCAPE: 6a HighBall Problem Colm Shannon, 2009 Interesting start on a thin crack to gain good hold 3m up. From here strenuous moves to gain under cut and then grassy ledge. Another ledge about a foot up allows you to bring up your feet and finish relatively easily from here.
FACE PLANT: HVS 4c/5a ** Clive Cusack, Jeff Ringrose, September 2005 Enjoyable lay backing to start up to the point where crack widens. Here gain good hold on right of crack, step up on onto a small notch and reach for high hold out left(crux). Easier Finish.
COCO: E1 5b* Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary 25th July 2011 Climbs the overhanging groove 8m right of Face Plant. Layback the thin crack up to a good hold on the rib to the right of the overhanging groove. Pull through to easier climbing above.
CRUBEEN: VS 4c* Dermot Shiels, Radu Toma 25th July 2011 Nice shallow corner with layback crack 3m right of Coco, with a tricky move near the top.
GRACE UNDER PRESSURE E2 5c** J Healy, G O'Mahony 15th April 2017 Just left of Lick The Blood a pair of cracks go directly up a groove. Climb the groove strenuously to excellent jams at half height. After a few more moves a good hold right of the crack leads to better and the top. Sustained
LICK THE BLOOD: VS 4b Radu Toma, Dermot Shiels 25th July 2011 Climbs the arette (with a laybacking crack) 2m left of The Mad Vet. Easy start with good protection, step right and prepare to layback from half way all the way to the top. Committing!
THE MAD VET VS 4c Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 17th July 2011 Takes the short wide crack on the right of the buttress. The rock is solid but be prepared for a strenuous exit to finish.
TEDS TINKERS HS 4b J Healy, R Daly 30/03/17 Start up King of the Faeries. At 3m step left to the foot of the arete. Climb the arete to the top.
KING OF THE FAIRIES HS 4b Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts 17th July 2011. 6m right of The Mad Vet and facing a holly tree and boulder there is a corner capped by a triangular overhang. Climb the corner branching out steeply right to finish.
Variation: Direct Finish HS 4b Gerry Galligan, Peter Wood 31st July 2011. Climb the corner up to and left of the overhang.
NONO: E1 5b* Dermot Shiels, Niamh McGreen 26th July 2011 Climbs the finger cracks 2m right of King of the Fairies. Climb the finger cracks to reach a thin flake to the right where the cracks end. Pull up on small face holds to reach better holds above.
Right of NONO is a small bay with a prominent finger crack cross at its centre. There are three routes in the bay.
THE CLOSET BREXITEER VD R Daly, J Healy 30/03/17 Climb the corner that forms the left hand side of the bay.
THE KNACK HS 4c J Healy, R Daly 30/03/17 CLimb the crack up the centre of the cross at the base of the wall. A long move gains a good hold above. Pull up strenuously and continue more easily to the top.
SWAMPY JOCKS VD J Healy, R Daly 30/03/17 Start R of the cross below a recessed scoop in the wall. Climb directly up and out of the scoop.
THE SHNOZ, HEH S Ian McLoughlin, Stefan Reiman 28/05/2017 Start 1m left of Toilet Time. Climb the outside of the nose between Swampy Jocks and Toilet Time.
Mitch on Mitchin Impossible
TOILET TIME VD Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller 7/02/2010 Climb the left corner
THE SHLAB, HEH S Stefan Reiman, Ian McLoughlin 28/05/2017 Straight up middle of slab between Toilet Time and Mitchin Impossible without using either crack.
MITCHIN IMPOSSIBLE * HS 4b Mitch Miller, Darragh Conneely 07/02/2010 Follow middle crack.
THE DIRTY HALF DOZEN S S. Reiman, I. McLoughlin, C. Mazzanti, Sara M, J. Linde, D. Hendrick, 17/9/2017 Straight up middle of slab between Mitchin Impossible and There's Something About Mary. Even looking at either vertical crack is considered cheating.
THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY D L Timoney, J Healy 30/03/17 Start 3m right of Mitchin Impossible. Climb the crack to where it curves left and steepens. Step R here and climb the straight crack directly up to the top.
PIECE OF CAKE D Petra Tolarová, Stefan Reiman, Dermot O'Dwyer 16/04/17. Start 2m right of THERES SOMETHING ABOUT MARY. Climb the obvious crack to the top.
POP VD Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová, Dermot O'Dwyer 16/04/17. Start at gap between boulder and left-hand side of wall. Climb crack in centre of left-hand wall past a horizontal crack at 2/3 height.
GLEBE VS Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová 16/04/17. Climb left-hand crack in centre of wall. Difficulty eases after first moves.
BACK IN THE SHIT ** HVS 5a Colm Shannon, Darragh Conneely 07/02/2010 Make some hard moves off the ground to get a big hold on top of the block wedged in the crack. From here use the crack and crimps to the left to finish up.
SOFT LANDING - HVS 5a Darragh Conneely, Mitch Miller 07/02/2010 Difficult moves to get over the bulge at the start. (Direct Start - E1 5b - Gabrielle Orsini, Radu Toma 10/08/2013 - takes the shallow crack slightly to the left of the main crack.)
THE REACH ** E1/2 6a Colm Shannon, Un-seconded 07/02/2010 Start to the left of the slab with both hands on a sharp pocket (where my left foot is in picture). From here step up onto high holds and stand tall, leaning into the slab, before reaching far to the right for the feature. After this, much easier climbing leads to the top. Note 1: This will probably not be possible for people of short to average stature :-) Note 2: (for the short people :) 10/08/2013) use good high left handhold (side pull) in order to bring right foot onto the sharp pocket. This will enable you to reach far right.
MIND YOUR MONKEY BONE VS 4c Ciaran Cleary, Brian Mcarthy 30/07/2011 This start 4m right of THE REACH on a pillar with a stone wall at the base on it, start to the left of the wall bouldering start on OK gear to reach a lay back to good holds to the top.
WHERES ME FINGER TAPE HVS 5a Ciaran Cleary, Dave Cummins 21/05/2012 2m right of mind your monkey bone, hop over the wall to a blank wall with 2 horizontal cracks start in the middle climb up to the second crack using small wires, then travers left to the arete, follow to the top.
AILL RIGHT NOW VS Dermot O'Dwyer, Stefan Reiman, Petra Tolarová 16/04/17. Climb corner underneath overhang, continue straight up the crack above
A high cliff 300m ESE of Leaba na hAon Bhó Crag coordinates 510422E, 702644N. Peregrines are known to nest here, best to avoid it until August.
AN CATHACH HVS 5b 15m ** Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary 9th August 2011 This route takes the prominent corner on the left hand side of the crag. Climb the corner crack and small holds on the left wall to get established. Follow the corner and horizontal breaks on the left wall. A series of bridging moves up the steep corner and a difficult move near the top get you to the top. Excellent belay seat 1m from the top.
AN TEACH SOLAS HVS 5a 14m Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary 9th August 2011 This route starts at a steep wide crack in the middle of the crag. Bridge up the corner, using hand jams in the crack, to a ledge above the wide crack. Continue through easier horizontal breaks above.
CRANNOG HS 4b Dermot Shiels, Ciaran Cleary 9th August 2011 This great little route starts under the large overhang at the right hand end of the crag. Layback left up the ramp. Then climb up to the right hand side of the big roof. Using holds on the right of the roof pull through to gain the top.