Lover's Leap - Enniskerry

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Printed guidebook available here

This is a steep outcrop of south-facing rock in the Dargle Valley near Enniskerry. From Enniskerry climb the hill south past a church on the left and the entrance to Powerscourt Estate on the right. Go 100m beyond the entrance to a sharp right bend with limited parking on the left just before the bend. Follow the footpath from the parking spot for nearly 20 minutes, passing the ruins of a cottage and the rear of some new bungalows en route, and ignoring a number of small paths dropping down on the right towards the river. The top of the crag is on the right, less than ten metres from the track, and almost level with it, near the point where the track reaches its highest point. There is a line of mature oak trees on the left of the track at this point. The descent path goes down to the right of the crag when facing the river.

 <display_map>53.184296, -6.153359~Lovers' Leap</display_map>




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1. A HOME OF OUR OWN     10m     VS    (4c)
Start at the mouth of the cave halfway down the descent path. By strenuous moves gain a foothold above the cave. Move right and follow the groove to the top.
G. Moss, D. Doyle, J. Butler, 14/4/1984.

2. BALLROOM OF ROMANCE     16m     HS    (4a)
A serious route for its grade.
There is a ledge at 3m with a block at either end. Start at the left edge of the face, directly below the block at the lefthand end of the ledge. Climb on sharp holds to the block ( a large sling useful here), from the top of the block move up and a little left to the edge of the face. Make a difficult move up to overcome a bulge and follow the edge on small, sharp holds, with spaced protection, to finish left of the projecting block.
G. Moss, B. Norton, 11/2/1984

3. THE ODD COUPLE     17m     HS    (4b)
Start directly below the cracked block projecting out at the top of the crag. Climb to the ledge at 3m and then directly to the projecting block which is turned on the right. Good protection beneath the block.
G. Moss, B. Norton, 11/2/1984

4. IT'S A SCORCHER     17m     HS    (4b)
Start as for The Odd Couple. Climb to the ledge and then diagonally rightwards to reach a left-trending line of weakness. Follow this until able to step right onto a small ledge. Move up right again to a bigger ledge and more easily to the top.
D. Doyle, G. Moss, J. Butler, 14/4/1984

5. THE ETERNAL TRIANGLE*     17m     VS    (4c)
Start below the block at the righthand end of the ledge which is 3m above. Climb steeply to the block. From the top of this climb straight up to a small overhang, which is taken direct. Continue straight up on small holds.
G. Moss, J. Butler, D. Doyle, 13/10/1984.

6. MENAGE-A-TROIS **     17m     HVS     (5a)
Start just R of T.E.T.at the foot of the right-facing corner below an overhang. Climb the crack in the corner to the overhang. Take the overhang directly and continue up a short wide crack to the foot of a right-slanting groove. Climb this (difficult to start)to finish at the highest point of the crag.
G. Moss, L. Convery, B. Hannon 10/09/2005.

7. MOSS MILL GROOVE*     17m     VS    (4c)
Start 2m R of M.A.T. Climb easily leftwards for a few feet then diagonally rightwards across slabby wall to reach thin crack in overhang. Climb this (strenuous) then up diagonally left to reach bottom of shallow left-trending groove. Gain this (crux), then easily to the top.
D. Doyle, G. Moss, J. Butler, 14/4/1984

8. FROST ON THE ROOF     23m     VD
Start at the overhang at the bottom right of the crag. Climb up diagonally right to the top of the block to a ledge then step around left to a ledge above the overhang. Follow the right-hand edge to the foot of a steep section just below the top. Step around right and climb the left edge on good holds.
G. Moss, T. Purcell, 9/1/1982.