The small crag located at the top of the ground which rises steeply up from midway between the upper and lower lakes, known as Eagles Crag.
The rock is rough granite, and is characterised by short, steep walls with horizontal breaks. There is also a very distinctive, long, narrow passage formed between an enormous block and the main bulk of the crag. The passage is wide enough for a person to enter it, reach its end and climb easily up onto the huge block. It also provides the opportunity for some chimney climbing.
Although there is scope for only short routes (10m or less), the crag is situated in a fine position over-looking the lower lake, with a view right down the Glencree valley towards the coast.
The crag can be approached from the small quarry/car park up the hill and about 5 minutes drive South of Glencree along Military Road (Grid ref. O 143 153, OSI discovery series map 56). From the car park head to the NE side of the upper lake and follow the boggy trail, passing the boulders to the steep ground located midway between the upper and lower lakes. Ascend the steep ground. The crag is found near the top.
Approaching the crag by the route described above the long, narrow passage comes into view.
1 CHIMINEY CRICKET 9m VD
Start just inside the entrance of the narrow passage. Climb up onto the flat top of the enormous block. Step across the void to a comfortable foot-ledge and climb straight up the wall to finish.
M. Cleary, E. Cannon, D. Mckeown. 27/2/2010
2 CHIMNEY SWEEP 15m MS 4a.
Start at the opposite end of the passage (the passage is blocked by some blocks so it is necessary to walk around to the part of the crag directly overlooking the lower lake).
Climb the chimney for about 3m then climb over a number of wedged blocks for another 3m (from here it is possible to climb to the flat top of the enormous block). Down-climb into the long passage and pass through to the other side.
D. Mckeown, M. Cleary. 7/3/2010
3 WHERE EAGLES DARE 8m HVS 5a
A strenuous, 2-move wonder. In the middle of the crag there is a vertical wall with regular horizontal breaks (right of Chimney Sweep). At the bottom are two long ledges. Climb to the upper of the two ledges. Climb rightwards up to an obvious triangular cave. Facing into the cave, there is a precariously perched block on the left at about head height. Pull up on this, then strenuously step up onto the block to allow an easier finish onto the grassy ledge.
M. Cleary, D. Mckeown. 7/3/2010