Loop Head
From Irish Climbing Online Wiki
These climbs are taken from New Climbs 1977 and 1991.
"New route possibilities on this peninsula are unlimited, plenty of scope for easy slab routes and great expanses of steep serious rock for the future".
These crags are described in order, moving northeast from the Lighthouse on the tip of Loop Head (Sheet 63 OS Discovery Series, GR Q 690 472) towards Kilkee.
As one faces the the lighthouse, follow wall around to the left to where the wall meets an old grass bank. Follow bank towards the sea, slabs 50ft on the left. Note: there are two slabs in this area. The easterly slab is located opposite a small sea arch and contains the following two routes. Abseil point to the right of slab (as one faces sea).
Probably relevant sketch
Janus 70ft S.
Abseil down to ledge at foot of the arete. Climb arete to top, keeping close to edge.
Clare Sheridan, Calvin Torrans. 8th Jan 1978.
Slog Mhara 70ft H.S.
Abseil to small distinct ledge just rightof Janus. Climb or surf directly up.
Dermot Somers, John Colton. 8th Jan 1978.
The second slab is the larger of the two and is just to the west of the smaller one. It is easily recognised by a series of small, step-like ledges just L (facing the sea) of a cave and obvious fault line. Near its upper L-hand end the slab becomes steeper and is characterised by many, almost horizontal quartz veins. There are no belay stakes in situ. There is a layer of loose rock and mud at the top. This in no way impedes climbing, but rockfall, when abseiling, is a danger, so helmets should be worn. A rucksack for the climbing rope is useful, preventing it from falling into the sea. The following two climbs oofer excellent climbing with a unique atmosphere and good protection.
Foamfollower 100ft. VS4c
This route takes a thin crack near the L end of the slab.Abseil down about 20ft R of the L arete and belay (poor nuts/friends, and/or abseil rope) on footholds about 15ft below a line of overlaps. In calm weather it may be possible to belay much lower down.
Climb diagonally L-wards to a jammed block at the highest point of the overlap. Surmount this and up the thin crack crack to the steeper quartz-veined headwall. Climb straight up this to the top.
T. Ryan, O. Jacob, S. Gallwey. 6th December 1981.
Ariel 100ft. VS4c
This climb takes a thin diagonal crack up the slab about 50 ft. R of 'Foamfollower'.
Abseil down to a small ledge below the obvious stepped ledges and about 30 ft. above the sea. Belay on poor nuts and/or the abseil rope. In calm weather it may be possible to belay much lower down.
Climb diagonally L-wards and follow the thin crack to the steeper headwall. Climb this to the top (crux).
O. Jacob, T. Ryan, S. Gallwey. 6th December, 1981.
Dermot and Grania's Rock 60m XS
This fine stack (aka Oileán na Léime)is separated from Loop Head by a long, deep and atmospheric channel. Abseil (Note: The bumper of a parked car was used as abseil anchor - Ed.) into the chasm at its northern end and swim across to gain a ledge 50m from the Kilkee (north) end of the stack. Crawl along the incut ledge about 10m above the high water mark (very slippery and 5a at one point) to gain ledges at the Kilkee end. Move up to a higher ledge and belay.
1/ 10m Traverse around the corner onto the seaward side of the stack and climb a chimney/corner to gain a projecting ledge on the R.(In calm weather it would be possible to walk round to beneath the seaward face on an exposed ledge system).
2/ 10m 5b/c Traverse 15m right to gain good handholds on an overhanging wall which is climbed to gain ledges leading left to beneath a steep shallow groove. Climb this and exit left at the top onto ledges. Make a couple of moves up a thin crack just right of the arete to gain a good ledge on the Kilkee (N) arete. 10m higher is another good ledge.
3/ 16m 5a Climb the right-hand side of the arete to gain an obvious ledge which crosses the landward side of the stack at 2/3 height. Move right-wards along the ledge to the seaward corner where it abruptly ends.
4/ 24m 5b/c Hand traverse 15m right(onto seaward side) and pull up onto projecting footholds. Surmount the overhanging projections above and trend right up shallow grooves and a wide crack to a good ledge 10m below the top. Finish on the right.
Return by "Tyrolean"
M. Fowler, S. Sustad (alternate leads) June 1990.
On the north side of Loop Head, some 200 yds east of the lighthouse and Dermot and Grania's rock, a series of impressive steep smooth integral shaped slabs will be seen. Climbing on these cliffs is extremely serious, due to their remote position, exposure to the Atlantic and nature of the rock. An accident, no matter how trivial, would become a very serious matter.
Black Space 200ft HVS
This line takes the corner at the end of the slabs and the start was reached by abseil down the route. Obvious loose material was cleaned out.
1/. 100ft. From the sea-washed platform (using ab rope as belay anchor) climb the overhanging corner until the angle eases, plenty of doubtful protection, belay in niche.
2/. 100ft. Continue up the corner in an extremely airy position until very loose rock and earth is reached. From this point on the abseil rope was used for aid for the final 30ft.
S. R. Young, P. Brennan 4th Sept 1977
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Bridge of Ross Bay GR Q 735 504
The area is described from W to E and the climbs from left to right when viewed from below. The first two slabs are easily spotted, being on either side of the little bay immediately in front of the car park, which is signposted.
On the west side of Bridge of Ross bay there is a slab forming the left side of an arch. The slab has a diagonal crack in its lower section, two corners on the upper left hand side and a short, steep wall at the top. Abseil down to a belay in the diagonal crack, at a point where there is a blow hole running through to the arch: an atmospheric place when the seas are surging in. (Low to half tide only).
BLOW THE MAN DOWN V.Diff
Climb diagonally right to gain the edge and finish up the overhang on good holds.
G. Moss E. Hackett , L. Convery 5/6/99
BAY SLABS. Half to low tide. These are the slabs jutting out into the bay on the E side. Approach by boulder hopping from the foot of the slipway at the back of the bay, or by abseil.
CRYSTALLOGRAPHER'S DELIGHT S
The left side of the slab has an overhanging band running across it at about 4m. Start below a crackline in the centre of the upper section.
Climb steeply to the overhang and follow the crack above.
L.Convery G. Moss E. Hackett 5/6/99
THE GIFT S
The climb is located half way between Crystallographer's Delight and Meehan's Corner. Start the climb below the small vertical crack and follow the crack to the top.
Féidhlim Harty, Eimear Duggan 27/6/09
MEEHAN'S CORNER Diff
Start 3m right of 2, below the obvious corner.
Climb the arête on the right side of the corner and the short wall above.
E. Hackett L. Convery G. Moss 5/6/99
STONECHAT V.Diff
Start at the foot of the wide crack. Climb the crack, stepping right to finish.
L.Convery E. Hackett G. Moss 5/6/99
ROCK PIPIT HS
Climb the slab to the right of the crack.
G. Moss L. Convery E. Hackett 5/6/99
THE LITTLE ARK S
Climb the shallow left facing corner to the right of Rock Pippit.
E. Hackett L. Convery G. Moss 5/6/99
Square Buttress 1.
There are two obvious square-cut, flat-topped buttresses on the east tip of the Bridge of Ross bay. These climbs are on the west facing wall of the west buttress. Access to the foot of the wall is by abseil (low to half tide only). Due to tidal restrictions only one route was done on this wall, but there are a number of steeper possibilities.
ESCAPE ROUTE Diff
Start below a groove at the right end of the wall. Climb steeply on large holds until it is possible to move right to a large ledge. Continue more easily to the top
Footbridge buttress.
The following climbs are approached by crossing a small, natural footbridge of black rock, spanning a channel about 2m wide. Access to the footbridge can be gained by scrambling down some 30m to the east and traversing back along the shoreline or by abseil. (Low to half tide only). From the footbridge move 3m right to the foot of a black groove.
COAL CORNER Diff
Climb the groove.
E. Hackett L. Convery 7/6/99
BROINGLOID NA GCAPAILLINI BANA V.Diff
Climb the steep, exposed arête on the right of the groove, on good holds.
L. Convery E. Hackett 7/6/99
Little Zawn
About 50m E of B.O.R bay. Approach by a steep grassy track at the back of the zawn. With the exception of the last climb all the routes here are non-tidal. On the W side of the zawn are two steep slabs, the first route is on the left slab.
LOOPLINE VS 4c
Start at the bottom right of the slab and trend slightly left to finish up the centre.
G. Moss L. Convery E. Hackett 6/6/99
MONEEN CRACK S
Start just around to the rightof Moneen Crack, below the corner/crack line.
Climb this to the top.
E. Hackett L. Convery G. Moss 6/6/99
ROS NA RÚN VS 4b
Start at the foot of the second slab.
A steep start leads to a pleasant finish.
G. Moss L. Convery E. Hackett 6/6/99
MOSS BRIDGES HS
Start on boulders just left of the mouth of the huge arch (most tides).
Climb the arête on large holds until it is possible to make an airy and thought-provoking traverse out right over the edge of the void, go around a rib and finish up the short corner.
L. Convery E. Hackett G. Moss 6/6/99
Steve's Slab GR Q 777 523
This magnificent, easy angled sea slab is probably unique in Ireland and is well worth a visit.
Approach. The original approach, as described in 1977, included the crossing of some fields, not an option these days. Luckily, recent developments have helped to provide a straightforward, trouble-free approach. Traveling southwest from Kilkee on the R487, drive through the little village of Cross, then, about a kilometre beyond the cemetery, turn right at Oughterard crossroads (GR 782 511) onto a dirt road. Follow this until a new section of this road swings left (west) to arrive at an extensive area of sand and gravel workings (JCBs, etc.,) at the edge of the cliffs. There is ample parking here. A pleasant walk of 15 - 20 minutes, along a narrow path, with the cliffs on your right and the field boundaries on your left, will bring you to the slab, which has been likened to an inclined hard-surfaced tennis court, with a cave at its eastern end (right, facing out). The top of the slab is level with the path and only 2 or 3 meters away from it. There are good belays, holds and gear placements in the cracks, and the higher you climb, the better the friction becomes. The foot of the slab is reached by an abseil of almost 50 meters, and two metal stakes are in situ (Note: there are no ledges at the foot of the climbs, belay from nuts or friends in the cracks). The climbs are described from right to left as seen facing out to sea from the top of the slab.
Tension. Mild Severe.
This climb is described as starting from a slight circular recess, but this is difficult to see from above. A better option might be to belay as for Crystal Crack, and climb up to the circular recess (which you will spot when abbing down). Then continue by zigzagging back and forth between the discontinuous cracks above.
S. R. Young, J. Leonard. 27th August, 1977.
Crystal Crack. V. Diff.
This quartzite crack starts near the bottom centre and runs up diagonally eastward.
J. Leonard, S.R. Young 27th Aug 1977.
Bird Nest Crack. V. Diff.
This is the easiest climb of the three and takes the wide quartzite crack to the left (looking out) of the previous two climbs.
J. Leonard, S.R. Young 27th Aug 1977.
N.B. There is scope for new routes here, using thinner cracks than the ones already climbed but further abseil stakes would be needed.
Croan Rock Gr 784 538
Approach: Just before entering the village of Cross on the R487 turn Rightat a crossroadsContinue along this lane and go left at the first turning. Follow the road by farms until a slabby ridge can be seen off to the Right(after one mile) . Leave the car at the barn and walk across fields leading down to a cove.(Note: sheet 63 shows a path leading from the end of the road to the cove - Ed.).
The first obvious slabby ridge is Green Slabs,and just beyond this, across a narrow zawn ending in a sea cave, lies another ridge with Pale Slabs and beyond the tip of that another ridge consisting of Black Slabs.
Cross the river and walk along the cliff top until the Pale Slabs ridge is reached. Descend from the ridge by abseil to the obvious ledge about 15ft above sea level.
Puffin' 150ft. V.D.
Climb the obvious corner at the land end of the slab, via the bulge to the top.
S. R. Young, D. O'Murchu 23rd Oct 1976
Pullin' 150ft S
Climb the approximate centre of the slab on good holds with excellent protection.
S.R. Young, D. O'Murchu. 23rd Oct 1976
Punchin' 80ft Diff
Climb the seaward edge of the slab.
D. O'Murchu, S. R. Young 23 Oct 1976
Illaunonearaun Slabs Gr 833 568
.
These "circular slabs lie opposite the flat-topped island, Illaunonearaun, and are just below the road. The slabs are in two sections, and all routes so far are on the easterly section. (Unfortunately, the slabs proximity to the road has resulted in them being used as a rubbish chute - dumping refuse off cliff tops is a popular local custom). Access by scrambling down on either side.
Finger Lick'n Crack. 50ft VS
This route climbs the second corner running up the slab - the narrow cracked corner. From the top of the corner continue up the crack to the top.
S. R. Young, J. Leonard. 28th August 1977.
Ethereal 180 ft. VS
About mid-way between Finger Lick'n Crack and Black Bottom a vague line of weakness runs up diagonally R. No description is necessary, protection is extremely poor, beware of broken glass.
S. R. Young, P. Brennan. 3rd Sept 1977.
Black Bottom 180 ft S
About 50ft west of Finger Lick'n Crack, the route follows the only line of weakness up the infinitely varying angled slab, trending R.
Beware of broken glass, climbed in two pitches due to lacerated leader.
J. Leonard, S. R. Young 28th August, 1977.
Beyond Black Bottom the slabs may be ascended as one pleases at grade of Diff. - V. Diff.
The second section of slabs are generally featureless, no routes as yet.
