Glengarriff

From Irish Climbing Online Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search

Introduction Location- A couple of miles up the Glengariff River there is a crag known locally the The Eagle's Nest or Faill Ceannainn.


Description - On this cliff here is a central white nose with tree-filled gullies on either side. On each side of these gullies there is a darker set-back face. To the right of the right face there is another tree-filled gully and then a large buttress.

AMONG THE BIRDS 145m S
Ms E. Healy, F. Winder (shared leads). August 1957
The climb runs up the side of the buttress, just to the right of the gully, passing to the left of a patch of trees on the face. It starts up a broad black slab with a groove on its right starting half way up and leading to a pedestal.
1. 20m. Climb the slab, diagonalling right to the groove and ascend to the pedestal. Ascend a wall from the pedestal. Thread belay.
2. 20m. Ascend to a few holly trees slightly to the left.
3. 20m. Climb the edge on the right and then straight up to a vegetated ledge below a steep wall. Move slightly left. Belay using crack.
4. 15m. Climb the wall to the right of the tree-filled gully.
5. 30m. Climb vegetation and short walls to a crack (runner). Climb the crack and pull out right at the top (hard).
6. 30m. Climb slabs.
7. 10m. Climb a final corner.