Glendalough West Wing & Main Face

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Printed guidebook available here


TWIN BUTTRESS - WEST WING

FAR WEST BUTTRESS

This faces west behind the left edge of the Main Face. From Base Camp at Acorn Buttress follow a rough, rising path leftwards to a steep, rocky stream-bed, often dry. (From here a short path breaks back right giving easy access to Main Face routes between Quartz Gully and Sarcophagus). Scramble steeply up to the right of the watercourse following well-worn grooves and a short traverse to an easy 3m step. This leads to the foot of the clean, cracked slab of Expectancy distinguished by a prominent holly tree in its left corner. To reach the routes starting on the left end of the crag scramble further up past steep, wet and slippery ground.

Most of the routes in this area are short and straightforward, being VS or lower in grade. Many are very enjoyable and this is a good area to become acquainted with climbing in Glendalough. Two routes have been recorded on a line of short cliffs (with a rowan tree in a gully) located approximately 300m across a broad shallow gully to the west and slightly higher than the top of Far West Buttress. Near the left end of the cliffline there is a prow with pockety formations to the left of which there is a short leaning corner where the first route starts.

WHEN GORSE WAS A MAN'S BEST FRIEND 12m VS ( 4 c )
Climb the leaning corner exiting right onto a broad ledge which leads to the crack. From here finish up the upper end of a deep crack.
Darragh Curran, Conor O Shea, 3/5/1999.

FELIX INFERNUM 15m HVS (5b)
This route is found about 30m to the right of the previous climb, beyond a broken gully. It essentially takes the left side of the rather vegetated slab. Up a broken groove past an overlap with two short parallel cracks above (protection). Straight up to a ledge. From here, up and left to the arête to finish to the right of a boulder.
Conor O Shea and Darragh Curran, 3/5/1999.

The next route is found at the extreme left end of Far West Buttress, up the gully and on the same side as Expectancy. Approach via steep, wet ground.

See topos of the next 10 routes at page 30

RUNNING BLIND 30m HVS (5b)
Start about 18m left of Cracks in the Garden of Eden at a wide crack formed by a huge stepped boulder. Climb an open groove, cross the crack rightwards and up a short wall to gain a ledge at the foot of a vegetated corner. Climb this directly (crux) or take the left-trending crack (4c) at 3m to avoid the hard upper moves.
J. Price, J. Armstrong, November 1983.

JUNGLE JOURNEY 30m HS (3c,4b) Start 10m below the large boulder of Running Blind at a sharp crack just left of a holly tree.
1. 15m Climb the excellent crack and battle through the thicket above.
2. 15m Struggle left through a crevice to a holly tree. Climb a short groove to gain a ledge below the steep corner of Running Blind. Up this to a left-trending crack (4b) at 3m or avoid the corner via the easier white slab (4a) on the left.
S. Rothery, N. Carey, 8/8/1954.

EDEN WALL 33m HS (4b,4a)
1. 15m Climb the overgrown groove to the right of Jungle Journey. At the first tree move out right onto the wall. Follow a diagonal crack to reach the distinctive wide fissure on Cracks on the Garden of Eden. Move left and climb the wall on small holds.
2. 18m Finish up the top section of Garden of Eden.
T. O Neill, S.R. Young, 31/8/1975. (on sight lead by O Neill, previously top-roped by Young).

GARDEN OF EDEN 40m VS (4c,3c)
Start at a clean right-facing corner just over 20m up left of Expectancy Slab. A crack leans right.
1. 12m Move up the corner which is difficult to start. Easier ground leads to a belay at a yew tree (treat it gently).
2. 10m D Move up and traverse horizontally left to reach the ledge of Jungle Journey.
3. 18m Enter a fine deep chimney and reach a spike where it tightens. Ease out to a cunning handhold on the left and finish up an easy slab to the top.
J. Morrison, N. Gorevan, J. Lynam, W. Perrott, 6/5/1951.

CRACKS ON THE GARDEN OF EDEN *** 38m VS (4c,4a,4c)
Start at a clean right-facing corner just over 20m up left of Expectancy Slab. A crack leans right.
1. 12m Move up the corner which is difficult to start. Easier ground leads to a belay at a yew tree (treat it gently).
2. 12m Move left to the base of a steep, 3m off-width crack and climb it to a break; continue up the wider part of the crack above to a belay ledge. Alternatively, pitches 1 and 2 can be combined by taking the wall above the starting corner at 4m and following a thin finger crack which leads to the hand crack. This more direct approach upgrades the route to HVS (5a).
3. 14m. An exhilarating pitch up the steep, cracked groove above.
J. Morrison & party climbed the easier lower pitches, 1951.
R. Ohrtmann led Pitch 3 (without runners), 8/3/1953.
T. Ryan (led the hard direct start to Pitch 2), 1974.

8. SNAKEBITE 23m E1 (5b)
Start just above the trees on Garden of Eden. Take the wide bulging crack immediately right of the top pitch of Cracks on the Garden of Eden. The crux features a rocking quartz hold. Strenuous but well protected.
K. Higgs, H. O Brien, 28/5/1983.

ADAM'S APPLE 32m VD
1. 16m Climb a vegetated groove just right of Garden of Eden to a tree in the corner.
2. 16m Move up and right to gain a groove which leads, vaguely, to the top.
S. Rothery, N. Carey, 11/4/1954.

ARIVIDERCI 30m VS (4b)
Takes the steeper, quartzy slab just left of Expectancy Slab.
Start on the 3m heathery pulpit. Climb the cracks on quartz knobs, bearing left below the overhang to finish up a vegetated groove. A direct and clean finish at 4b takes the wide crack above the top of the slab.
S. Rothery, Mrs Rothery, April 1956
Direct Finish: A. Dawe, K. Higgs, 13/8/1983.

ESCAPADE ** 25m E3 (6b)
Follow Arividerci to a horizontal break 3m below the roof. Traverse right to reach a finger crack above the overhang. Make an ambitious reach high on the left. Gain the ledge (crux) and climb more easily to the top.
R. Fenlon, May 1986.

12. STRAY DOG ** 26m E1 (5b)
Start as for Arividerci. Move onto the edge of the slab and follow it to a small stance at the right-hand side of the overhang. Arrange protection here before a thin stretch which quickly leads to better holds above.
K. Higgs, S. Windrim, 7/5/1978.

EXPECTANCY SLAB

This is the clean cracked slab on the right-hand side of Far West Buttress where the following easily accessible and pleasant routes are found.


See topos of the next 6 routes at page 32

VARIANT 21m HS (4b)
The mature holly tree conceals a vegetated corner worthwhile for the unexpected holds near the top. Best to start up Georgia and move left above the tree which has grown considerably since the route was first climbed.
C. Rice, D. Milnes, 1970.

GEORGIA 21m HS (4b)
Takes the crack just right of Variant to the overhang. Negotiate this on the left to finish at the perched boulder.
S.R. Young, D. Ó Murchú, 1/5/1973.

LASSITUDE * 21m VS (4b)
The overhang is easier than it looks. Follow the diagonal crack just right of Georgia to the centre of the bulge which is climbed on good holds to the boulder above.
E. Gaffney, 20/8/1961.

EXPECTANCY *** 21m VD (3c)
A superb pitch. The centre of the slab is broken in the lower section by a right-angled groove. Climb this directly until it is possible to pull out left at a horizontal break. Continue up and slightly right using generous holds and cracks to exit at the abseil ring.
F. Maguire, A. Kopczynski, S. Rothery, 20/4/1952.

ADAM'S RIB * 24m HS (4b)
Climb the groove of Expectancy for 3m. Make delicate moves diagonally right to a crack. Climb straight up, over the bulge, gaining the top via a delicate slab near the arête.
E. Healy, F. Winder, 15/3/1955.

SOLITAIRE 28m HS (4b)
Start on the path below the right-hand arête of Expectancy Slab. Zig-zag with the crack to a ledge. Move slightly left and climb up to a corner groove on the edge of the recessed slab. Follow the left-trending crack to the inverted V and continue up this to reach the abseil ring.
S.R. Young, D. Doyle, 30/3/1974

THE MAIN FACE

At the base of the Main Face there is a large sloping heather terrace separated by a zone of broken rock and vegetation from the boulders below. Most of the routes start off this terrace. To reach this, leave the path to the West Buttress at the steep rocky stream-bed where a path breaks right, giving easy access to the Main Face between Quartz Gully and Sarcophagus.


See topos of the next 9 routes at page 36

DEIRDRE ** 25m VS (4c,3c)
Tackles the left edge of the Main Face right of Expectancy Slab and is clearly visible from below. There are several alternatives but the following is the most popular line.
1. 15m Just right of the foot of the true arête there is an open shallow corner with a thin crack. Climb the arête left of the crack to a good ledge. The exquisite, thin crack above is grappled past the vacant pod to another ledge. Belay in the corner.
2. 10m Continue up the corner crack and then move out left onto the arête to finish.
The original route included a now neglected introductory pitch at 4b which follows a rock rib to a midway ledge and then moves right to regain the groove which is followed to the usual starting belay on the path below the steep wall.
F. Winder, P. Kelly, 7/6/1953.
Variation 15m VS (4b)1a. Climb the steep shallow corner to the right of the arête to a ledge. Move right around a corner using small finger holds and continue up a groove to a good ledge and belay.
Variation 10m HVS (5a/b) 2a. From the left end of the belay ledge make a hard move up the arête and toe traverse a horizontal crack leftwards. Continue up the slab to regain the crest of the arête. Rarely done.
S. Billane, 1970's. According to the 1957 guide this was the original finish to the route.
Variation: Direct Finish 10m E1 (5b)2b From the left end of the belay ledge, climb the arête boldly to the top. (No protection).
K. Higgs, T. Ryan, 1979. (Top roped prior to ascent).

CAROLINE ** 17m E4 (5c)
A beautiful line that climbs the wall and groove 5m to the right of Deirdre.
D. Ayton, S. McMullan, 18/09/2004.
(Top roped prior to ascent. 3 pre-placed wires).

LOVE NEVER DIES 20m. E1(5b)
Start at base of corner right of Deirdre and Caroline. Move up rightwards across the right wall towards arête and up to vegetated ledge above. From its left end climb cracks in wall to niche above. Continue up leftwards to finish at abseil ring.
T.O'Neill, Dave Craig, S. Daly, 5 June 2009

21. FFOLLY 34m S (4a,4a,3c)
Neglected but interesting. A prominent 6m pillar stands below the left edge of the Main Face. Gain the top of the pillar (The Pulpit) via the arboreal chimney (Diff.) on the right or more easily from the left.
1. 13m From the Pulpit move right and climb the short crack in the centre of the wall to a holly tree. A tricky groove leads to a second holly tree.
2. 13m Climb a groove behind the well established tree, move left and surmount the overhanging blocks on a choice of jugs. Traverse carefully left across a sloping slab and down around a corner to a belay ledge.
3. 8m Continue up via short crack or move left and finish up Pitch 2 of Deirdre.
F. Winder, S. Rothery, 2/11/1952.

21a BANANA LOOPS 25m E2 (5c)
Start below the right end of a projecting block on the clean wall right of the pillar at start of Ffolly. Move up slightly right of a thin crack to bypass the overhang and gain a ledge on the top of the block. Follow quartzy lines up diagonally rightwards until small holds lead to a ledge above (crux). Continue up wall above, passing heather ledge, to belay on ledge at wall with diagonal crack. Step left and either continue up last two pitches of Ffolly or abseil off.
Terence O'Neill, Dave Craig, Síle Daly, 20/07/2008

THE NEST 50m VS (4c,4a,4b)
A fractured line that loses out by comparison to the Main Face routes to the right. It takes the prominent, leaning groove leading up to the holly tree just left of the great white vein of Quartz Gully. Start as for Quartz Gully.
1. 21m Climb diagonally leftwards to the base of the groove to reach a niche and holly tree; this point can also be reached either by a direct start (4c) from the left or by following Quartz Gully until a short traverse can be made to the holly tree, also at (4c). Break out left over the shattered overhang with care and continue up to a large spike belay.
2. 21m Follow the cracks above to another holly tree. Gain the groove above, move out right to the arête and up to a ledge and block belay.
3. 8m Climb the arête to the right.
S.R. Young, D. Ó Murchú (2 aid points), 9/6/1973.

CALIPH 50m VS (4c,A1)
Lacks distinction. Start as for The Nest.
1. 27m Move up the corner until just below the Quartz Gully step left. Take the layback crack through the overlap. Belay at the holly tree.
2. 23m Aid the short crack just right of the prominent holly tree and follow the corner and slab to finish up heather. Belay at the tree.
S.R. Young, 1980.

QUARTZ GULLY *** 54m HS (3c,4b,3c)
An all-time classic line, both striking in its appearance and absorbing in its ascent, with a character-challenging crux. Start directly below the prominent quartz vein.
1. 24m Climb a short corner for 3m and continue up to a ledge at the foot of a quartz vein. Move right and up steeply on good holds or more easily via the quartz vein to a ledge and block belay.
2. 21m Step up left onto a block and follow the vein to a spike. Move left to an exposed position below the diagonal crux crack (excellent wires). Pull up bravely on fingerlocks until it is possible to bridge across to the right. Having breathlessly regained the vein follow it to an interesting chimney which submits on the right. Belay just above.
3. 9m Climb the crack and short corner on the left to the top.
F. Winder, P. Kenny, 6/8/1950.

HOLLY TREE SHUNT * 55m VD (3c,3c)
Overshadowed by its more illustrious neighbours but redeemed by a steep and atmospheric top pitch. Start as for Quartz Gully directly below the prominent quartz vein.
1. 24m Climb a short corner for 3m and continue up to a ledge at the foot of a quartz vein. Move right and up steeply on good holds or more easily via the quartz vein to a ledge and block belay.
2. 13m D. From the block belay move right up a gully or follow the knobbly arête on its right to a recess and block belay.
3. 18m Climb the arête on the right. Where it meets steeper rock step left into the gully. Continue up on good holds and follow the obvious corner to the top.
F. Winder, P. Kenny, F. Maguire, July 1950.
Variation: Direct Finish 23m VD (3c) 3a Break out from Pitch 3 at 10m and climb diagonally left with one difficult mantelshelf to reach the top near the top of Quartz Gully.
P. Kenny, F. Maguire, F. Winder, 1953.

THREE IN ONE 57m S (4a,3c,4c,3c)
This route combines original route finding with elements of the now-abandoned lower pitches of Spéirbhean as well as the top pitch of Quartz Gully, to form a reasonable line. Well protected. Start just right of Quartz Gully.
1. 23m Move up left of a crack to a heather ledge at 5m. Climb up a small rib for about 10m before continuing up to the base of the V chimney.
2. 15m Climb the short chimney, move slightly right and continue up to a block belay shared with Holly Tree Shunt.
3. 10m From the belay move left and climb a steep corner crack to a large ledge on the left.
4. 9m Climb the crack and short corner on the left to the top (the final pitch of Quartz Gully).
Pitch 3 by P. Coakley, M. Boylan, June 1983.
Full line found by P. Coakley, D. Murray, 19/11/1983.

The following sextet of routes is found on the well-defined triangular facet of the central Main Face area. It is criss-crossed by several fine climbs, making it possible, and often desirable, to climb the Face using various combinations of pitches.


See topos of the next 13 routes at page 39

SPÉIRBHEAN ** 20m VS (4c)
Translates as "A vision of female beauty". The renowned top pitch is at the upper limit of its grade. This pitch is usually combined with Prelude or it may be linked with Spillikin/ Fanfare to provide a superb triple sequence. The previouslyrecorded lower pitches starting just right of Quartz Gully are spoiled by vegetation.
Starting from Nightmare Ledge traverse left towards the arête of Holly Tree Shunt or reach this point more directly by moving up left after the right-angled corner on Pitch 3 of Prelude-Nightmare. An elegant little groove, overhead and just right of the arête, leads to a ledge at the base of an intimidating, slabby wall. Tiptoe up and away from protection on small technical holds, then sidle breathlessly out to the arête. Follow this to the top.
P. Kenny, J. Morrison, Pitches 1 & 2, 1/12/1951.
Route completed S. Rothery, B. McCall, 15/4/1956.

PRELUDE-NIGHTMARE *** 74m VS (4b,4b,4a,4c)
This combination gives some of the best climbing on the crag at this grade. Intriguing combinations with other central Main Face routes are possible. Start at the foot of the Main Face just right of a small, shallow cave.
1. 14m Good holds on the right lead to a fine, sloping ramp. Shuffle delicately left up this until it peters out (this point may be reached directly from below) and pull up a short, stiff slab. Trend left again and move up easily to a belay ledge.
2. 20m Climb into the inverted V above and swing airily out to the left onto steep rock. A hidden jug in a horizontal break secures the position. Up on the left past a ledge until good flake holds lead to a second ledge and a substantial flake belay. (The crux pitch of Scimitar Crack may be started here). Pitches 1 and 2 are often climbed in a single run-out.
3. 16m Traverse left and climb a steep, right-angled corner with a wide crack. Follow a broken, slabby line above until a diagonal traverse rightwards gains the small, spectacular Nightmare Ledge. (For a Spéirbhean finish a belay can be taken in Holly Tree Shunt beyond the arête on the left).
4. 24m This is the demanding, airy Nightmare pitch. Climb the short crack above Nightmare Ledge for a few feet and swing sensationally rightwards onto a small, hanging slab. A delicate move further right gains a deep groove (Scimitar Crack), which is followed enjoyably on flakes and bridging holds until an easy step right gains the finishing arête.
Prelude pitches: P. Kenny, R. Ohrtmann, March 1953.
Nightmare pitch: F. Winder, P. Kenny, 14/6/1953.

VAGABOND 75m E1 (5b,4b,5a/b)
A contrived line avoiding existing routes which links some interesting sequences which would otherwise be missed. Start as for Prelude-Nightmare.
1. 30m Climb the short wall to a sloping ramp. Instead of moving left for Prelude climb directly up a wall; move slightly right and surmount a bulge via a short, thin crack to gain a heathery ledge. Climb up slightly right to a wide crack and traverse below this. Pull around onto a ledge (level with the start of Pitch 2 of Prelude). Climb the crack to the top of the recess and surmount an awkward overhang to a ledge. Go directly up the steep wall above for 6m, climbing a small overlap (crux) via a sharp diagonal crack. Move left to a large flake belay.
2. 20m Continue up diagonally right (as for Scimitar) for 3m, then directly up the wall to a small ledge. Step up left and follow the left branch of the Y crack above onto the arête before moving over to Nightmare Ledge. The overlap at the Y crack may be climbed directly at its lowest point up the steep wall at 5b.
3. 25m Climb the vertical crack above but instead of making the move right of Nightmare, make a long delicate step left into a steep groove. Climb the groove, poorly protected, to the small ledge on the upper section of Spéirbhean. Traverse delicately right along the base of the wall and climb the crack to the left of the finish of Prelude-Nightmare.
S. Windrim, A. Latham, July 1975.
Direct Variation on Pitch 2: S. Windrim, 8/8/1976.

SCIMITAR CRACK ** 74m HVS (5a)
This is the curved crack-line slashing the great triangle of the central Main Face from bottom left to top right. The 40m main pitch is well protected throughout, except for the brief crux where the protection is adequate.
1. 34m Just to the right of Quartz Gully vegetation has overrun the original route to the crack-line. Instead take the first two pitches of Prelude-Nightmare to an imposing flake belay on a narrow ledge.
2. 40m Follow the curving fault-line. Difficulty increases as it steepens. Bridge up a broad groove to a hanging quartz vein (crux). The climbing relaxes higher up as large holds appear. Swing right out of the groove onto the arête for the final moves.
F. Winder, S. Rothery, 28/6/1953.

FANFARE * 64m VS (4b,4a,4c)
A rather tame route redeemed by the infamous step-around from Spillikin Ledge. Start 6m right of Prelude-Nightmare at the foot of a quartzy fault.
1. 22m Climb the shallow quartz groove and move up right to the top of a pillar. Continue up diagonally left to reach a ledge out on the face. Pitch 1 of Sarcophagus preferred.
2. 22m From the ledge move left for 5m across a slab, then up to gain a vegetated rake which leads up to a good stance and belay (Spillikin Ledge).
3. 20m From the ledge descend slightly left and make a gutwrenching step around the arête onto a short, hostile wall. Step up delicately, then move diagonally left for about 10m to reach Nightmare Ledge. Finish up Nightmare or Spéirbhean.
F. Winder, P. Kenny, 7/6/1953.

SPILLIKIN RIDGE *** 85m E3 (4c,5c)
A cutting edge route in its time, it is now a timeless classic. Start as for Fanfare at the quartz fault 6m right of Prelude.
1. 43m Climb the shallow quartz groove onto the top of the pillar. Step slightly right and climb a bulge on substantial holds. Continue up leftwards to a ledge, step up right to the foot of a steep, thin crack. Climb up and left into a wide shallow niche. Quality moves lead to Spillikin Ledge above. (Seen from the ground this ledge is just below and left of the distinctive spike clearly visible at the foot of Spillikin Ridge).
2. 42m Climb the faint groove directly above the belay to the first bulge. Surmount this (crux). Follow the crack with difficulty to a second, slightly easier, bulge. A wide crack leads to a third overhang which is avoided by a quartzy traverse to the left. An easy sloping corner is followed right to a sensational perch. A long, teetering reach allows escape onto the final arête.
A better variation at the third overhang straightens out the line by stepping right and continuing up the arête. This avoids the traverse left into Scimitar.
F. Winder, P. Kenny, P. Hill, S. Rothery, 13/6/1954.
E. Goulding, after Spillikin (a 6m pillar) fell, leaving a much harder route (2 aid points), 1965.
C. Torrans, S. Darby (first free ascent), October 1980.
Variations: Direct Start (4c)
1a. From the sloping ramp at the start of Prelude follow a fault line going diagonally right until a small, triangular hold is gained. Step right onto a crescent hold, make a long reach right and climb the wall to an overlap on jugs, or, continue up a fault to the overlap and follow cracks directly.
C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 1975.
2a. The direct start to the crux pitch can be avoided by doing the Fanfare step-around and moving back right below the first bulge.
A. Latham, 1976.

BATHSHEBA *** 44m E5 (6b)
An intense, sequency challenge taking the sensational wall left of the main pitch on Sarcophagus. Surmount the initial bulge on Pitch 3 of Sarcophagus. Step left onto the wall and climb this to good holds at the base of an obvious green groove (peg). Climb this to its top. Make difficult moves left to reach a left-slanting crack. Follow this through the bulge to gain the steep slab just right of Spillikin Ridge. Continue up the arête to the top.
H. Hebblethwaite, 27/9/1987.

Variation E4 (6a)
As for Bathesheba up the to peg in the green groove. Clip the peg and immediately step left and continue up thin and technical climbing to reach the last teetering reach on Spillikin Ridge. Excellent climbing. B. Hall, V. Cleary 24/8/2013

THE WAKE *** 44m E5 (6b)
Follows the quartzy line up the overhanging wall right of Bathsheba. A thrilling excursion at the upper end of its grade. Well protected.
Start as for Bathsheba and follow this to a series of jugs below and right of the green groove (slings useful). Move directly up the wall just right of the groove to large quartz holds (small wires). A sequence of moves above gives access to the faint crack-line which is followed to a peg runner. Step right and up to the sanctuary of the finishing slab. Exit directly.
D. O Sullivan, J. Dugdale (redpoint ascent), September 1990.

SARCOPHAGUS *** 84m HVS (4b,5a,5a,5a)
An outstanding route. It takes the obvious line of corners right of Spillikin Ridge. Excellent protection. Start as for Fanfare and Spillikin Ridge
1. 24m Climb the quartzy groove and pull out right on top of a pillar. Step up right and surmount a bulge easily on large holds. Continue straight up to arrive just left of a pair of parallel cracks. Step right via the cracks and up to a good stance below a bulging corner.
2. 12m Climb the corner to a tree belay below the main corner groove.
3. 32m Climb the corner which is difficult to start but the pace relents at the top. Tradition dictates a sling on the spike at two-thirds height, a salute to the first ascent. Gain the arête on the right and climb the short crack before moving right to a small belay ledge in the corner.
4. 16m Climb the corner above with due respect to the tree.
E. Goulding, A. Ingram, 27/5/1961.
Variations
3a. The original start to this pitch avoided the steep, tricky part of the corner by moving right under a bulge on finger holds and back left to regain the corner.
Direct Start by P. McHugh and J. McKenzie, 1971
3b. Left-hand Finish (5a) Follow the main corner to its end at the stance on the arête. Step left to join a thin crack with excellent finger locks. Finish up The Wake or traverse right to the Sarcophagus belay.
D. O Sullivan, J. Dugdale, September 1990.

SPILLIKIN ARÊTE 40m E5 6b
The spectacular arête right of Spillikin Ridge. Start at the 2nd belay of Sarcophagus. Step off the large spike onto the arête and climb boldly up to good stance where protection can be placed in the Spillikin Ridge crack without leaving the arête. Technical moves up the arête lead to better holds, and easier climbing leads on to the finishing moves of Spillikin Ridge.
R. Browner, G. Hassett, 21/11/2005.

SOOTHSAYER ** 28m E5 (6a)
A bold scary face climb taking the wall right of the final corner (Pitch 4) of Sarcophagus. Start as for Left Wall Crack and follow this for 3m, almost to the arête. Climb up boldly to reach an accommodating ledge (R.P. protection). Step up right to good holds which lead to the horizontal break (peg runner). Continue direct through the overlaps until a hard move right near the top gives access to good finishing holds trending rightwards.
D. O Sullivan, C. Torrans (previously top-roped), July 1991.

THE FAR SIDE ** 45m E4 (6a)
Fine varied climbing with a demanding and tenuous feel.Start in the boughs of the large tree below the prominent, rightfacing corner which runs up to the prow right of the final corner of Sarcophagus. Approach by abseil or by traversing in from Pitch 3 on Sarcophagus after exiting the crux corner.
Climb the finger crack in the back of the right-facing corner to join Left Wall Crack. Follow this to the large, perched block (possible belay). Surmount the block and scale the short wall to good, flat holds (No. 1 Friend crucial). Traverse left for 3m to gain the hanging corner (poor wires) and finish directly in an exciting situation.
D. O Sullivan, I. Johnston, September 1990.

LEFT WALL CRACK ** 35m E1 (5b,5b)
Branches out from the top of Pitch 3 of Sarcophagus across the prow-like buttress and up the overhanging crack in the headwall on the right. Although the top pitch is subject to seepage the route is excellent in its own right or as a sustained extension to Sarcophagus.
1. 22m From the belay (top of Pitch 3, Sarcophagus) move up onto the right wall and up to its edge until possible to launch a tentative traverse around the arête to a sloping ledge. (May also be reached by traversing right from the belay to the arête and pulling into a hanging groove around the corner. Climb this with good protection to reach the sloping ledge with difficulty). Go up a steep corner to reach a large perched block. Possible belay here, reassuring to the second. Otherwise move right around this and traverse steep rock into the corner.
2. 13m Climb the overhanging crack in the left wall; awkward to start, but holds and protection improve with height.
P. McDermot, B. Rodgers, June 1969.
K. Higgs, S. Windrim, alternative start to Pitch 1, 1978.

GREAT CORNER 75m VS (4b,4b,4a)
Neglected and unappealing amidst the surrounding magnificence. Start as for Sarcophagus.
1. 24m Climb the quartzy groove and pull out right on top of a pillar. Step up right and surmount a bulge easily on large holds. Continue straight up to arrive just left of a pair of parallel cracks. Step right via the cracks and up to a good stance below a bulging corner (same as Sarcophagus).
2. 12m Climb the corner until it bulges. Move across right into another groove and up this past blocks to a good stance.
3. 17m D. Move right and bushwhack to oak trees.
4. 22m Climb a steep 5m wall left of trees. Up a dirty slab near its right corner. Climb a large boulder and escape up left as quickly as possible.
Easy variations, perhaps best forgotten, exist to pitches 1 - 3.
F. Winder, S. Rothery, 22/3/1953.

APHRODITE 97m VS (4b,4a,4c)
Start about 7m to the right of Sarcophagus.
1. 45m M Scramble up vegetation and forestry to the top of a large pillar. Forge ahead through more greenery just left of the waterfall for over 20m to the foot of a steep wall.
2. 18m Climb the short wall and short groove above and scramble up to the left of blocks to the base of a groove. Thread belay.
3. 25m Climb the groove, which becomes progressively thinner, to the trees. Move up left to a holly tree at the base of a chimney and follow this to a stance at the base of a corner. Flake belay.
4. 9m Climb the short but impending corner above to the top.
F. Winder, N. Brown, C. McCormack, 25/4/1954.

BÉAL TUINNE 102m VS (4b,4b,4b,4a)
Translates ominously as "Mouth of the Flood". Follows the left edge of the waterfall and gets your feet wet. Start as for Aphrodite.
1. 45m M Scramble up vegetation and forestry to the top of a large pillar. Forge ahead through more greenery just left of the waterfall for over 20m to the base of the steep wall.
2. 15m Climb the short wall, go slightly right and up to the base of the large black wall. Belay on the left.
3. 18m Climb the steep wall to the base of the obvious groove. Gain the slab above and move left and up to a flake belay.
4. 9m Move up right through the shrubbery to the base of a vertical groove; up this and move right to a grassy ledge and belay.
5. 15m Climb the short slab above and swing out left on blocks to reach the base of a steep, exposed slab. Climb this on large holds.
E. Healy, F. Winder, F. Butler, B. McCall, T. Cullen, 23/6/1957.

CAOL UISCE 132m S (3c,4a,4a)
"Narrow Water". Broken and usually damp climbing up the rocks and vegetation between the two waterfalls, reputedly redeemed by a fine fifth pitch. The original start is a few metres right of where the left-hand waterfall disappears into the boulders. The first pitch is wisely avoided by traversing in from the top of Acorn Buttress to the top of Pitch 1.
1. 21m D Climb broken rocks to a terrace. Cross this to the leftmost of two ribs.
2. 18m Climb the easy rib to a ledge and go up the small slab above to a crack. Climb this to the top.
3. 10m D Climb the rib above, moving to its left side near the top.
4. 30m Traverse right for 5m. Descend slightly and climb the slab above, moving left on small holds which lead to a delicate position below the overhang. Take a long step right and up vegetation. Ascend easily to a tree at the foot of the wall right of a groove.
5. 17m Climb the groove for 3m and then traverse left across the face of the pillar and climb its left edge. An airy and delicate move brings good holds into reach. Continue to the
top of the pillar.
6. 36m M Easy vegetated scrambling to finish right of a big block.
S. Rothery, F. Winder, 1/3/1953.

LAG MARA 133m VS (4b,4a,4b,4a,3c,4c)
"Low Tide". The route follows the line of the right-hand waterfall, staying to its left for most of the way. It is often damp, escapable at several places and never crowded. Start between Caol Uisce and a rocky gully on the right at a steep, clean slab.
1. 22m Go up the slab on its right-hand edge, overlooking the gully. Cross the terrace to the base of two ribs, slightly to the left or reach this point by traversing in from the top of Acorn Buttress.
2. 18m Climb the right arête, move left into the gully and up this to a stance and belay below a steep slab.
3. 21m Follow the left edge of the slab, moving right to the overhang. Below the overhang move delicately to the edge of the slab; climb it and the groove above to a stance.
4. 24m Climb the gully for 10m and then a vertical groove on the left side of the nose. Follow the edge up to the level of a terrace below Forest Wall.
5. 21m Climb the water-worn grooves above to a green ledge on the right below Mica Wall and the start of Bruce's Corner.
6. 27m Step left onto the rib and follow it mainly on the left flank; halfway up move left into a groove. From a niche at the top step right and up to finish.
F. Winder, S. Rothery, 22/3/1953.
R. Downes, R. Wathen, Pitch 6, 15/10/1956.
Variation 6a. The watercourse to the left of Pitch 6 was actually climbed earlier than 1956 when almost dry.
F. Winder, E. Healy.