Glendalough Acorn Buttress & East Wing
Acorn Buttress nestles at the foot of the East Wing of Twin Buttress. Less than 20m high, it has a clutch of single pitch routes mainly in the lower grades. It is also the location of Base Camp, a popular meeting place for climbers planning their day's itinerary.
See topos of the Acorn Buttress routes at page 54
FRIGG 10m VD
Starts on the far left of the buttress, a few metres beyond an overhanging corner. Climb the left-trending crack, duck around the tree and finish up the wider crack to the top.
S.R. Young, 17/8/1974.
OUT ON A LIMB 15m E1 (5b)
Start as for Frigg. Climb the crack, swing out right below a steep wall and move up to a good foothold on Slipstream. Step across left on friction and climb the arête boldly to the top.
S. Windrim, R. Dean, 14/8/1976.
NEW BEGINNINGS 10m HVS (5b)
Starts 2m left of the Slipstream corner below the arête. Gain a small ledge on this and move up and left into a small hanging corner to reach a good hold. From here gain and follow the Slipstream groove to the top.
Darragh Curran, Conor O Shea, 2/5/1999 (top-roped prior to ascent).
SLIPSTREAM * 15m HVS (5b)
Takes the overhanging corner and shallow groove on the left side of the buttress. Coerce the corner into submission, exiting right onto the slab; move up and delicately gain the leftfacing groove, which yields more easily, to the top.
S. Windrim, R. Windrim, 25/8/1974.
AMYGDALA 16m HVS (5a)
Start on the arête on the right-hand side of the Slipstream corner. Make a snappy pull onto the arête, and then boldly and delicately gain a diagonal break, followed by the jugs of Slipstream. Finish up the Slipstream groove.
Domhnall Brannigan, Glynn Foster, 25/3/1999.
50. ACORN CRACK * 16m HS (4b)
Takes the wide crack on the left front of the Buttress; requires good technique or else an embarrassing struggle. Step left on the ledge above and climb the crack to the top.
Variation (VD) Instead of moving left to the finishing crack, move slightly right and climb the crack and chimney.
J. Morrison, P. Kenny, F. Maguire, 17/7/1951.
51. VORTEX 16m VS (4c)
A contrived line that starts as for Acorn Crack. Step right onto the small slab and climb the inset block with the help of a thin finger crack to the large ledge. Traverse right across Inferno chimney and then climb diagonally left to the top.
D. Murray, I. Ryan, 14/7/1984.
52. INFERNO 20m S (4a)
Takes the awkward chimney right of Acorn Crack to a recess. Step out right onto the slab and trend rightwards to gain the top via a protruding block.
F. Winder, S. Rothery, 4/10/1953.
53. PROVO * 18m VS (4c)
A worthwhile climb, technical and airy. Start just to the right of Inferno. Climb directly up to a shallow quartzy groove with parallel cracks on either side. Finish steeply up these (crux) to the top.
S.R. Young, D. Windrim, 25/8/1974.
Variation 18m VS (4c) Takes the crack-line to the right of the normal finish.
R. Madden, A. Glynn, April 2005.
54. FACILIS DESCENSUS * 18m HS (4b)
A popular climb with a tricky finish. Climb straight up from the lowest point of the buttress, just left of the blunt arête. Good holds all the way, except for the rightward pull at the top. A direct finish via a thin crack is slightly harder at 4c.
S. Rothery, 12/6/1955.
55. REVOCARE GRADUM 15m S (4a)
Start at the foot of the whitish recess just right of Facilis Descensus. Climb the recess (or the right edge of the buttress) easily to a ledge on the left. Make two awkward moves slightly right to surmount the step and continue to the top, trending right.
J. Lynam, L. Convery, 25/9/1983.
56. DIG FOR FIRE 8m HVS (5b)
Situated on the far right hand side of the buttress, just past a grassy gully. Climb the wall with bouldering moves past two bulges to the top.
C. Rooney, P. O Farrell, Summer 1996.
TWIN BUTTRESS – EAST WING
The East Wing, to the right of the waterfalls, stands directly above Acorn Buttress and Base Camp. At mid-height it is divided by Forest Ledge, a prominent terrace partly screened by trees, which is reached either by following Forest Rhapsody (pitch 2) or by abseil to the left end of the Ledge from above. Below Forest Ledge the Lower Tier is broken and vegetated and there are few quality climbs. Route descriptions begin here. On the Upper Tier above the ledge the rock is generally clean and relatively free of seepage and the climbs are mostly steep and airy, with classic crack-lines, delicate arêtes, open faces, shadowy corners and grooves and strenuous overlaps and overhangs.
EAST WING – LOWER TIER
ROCK MUSIC 60m VS (4c,4b)
This often wet and rambling line up the right side of the waterfall starts at a large block just left of the black overhangs of the right-hand waterfall, a few metres left of Forest Rhapsody.
1. 25m From the block move up left on quartzy holds to a shallow corner which is followed to a bulge. Climb this and the slab above on the left as far as the base of an Arête.
2. 35m Follow the arête until a traverse left can be made across a wall. Finish up a knobbly arête to Forest Ledge.
J. Mulhall, B. Walker, S.R. Young, 19/4/1976.
THE BOOGIE MAN VS 4c
Start about 6m left of Forest Rhapsody’s vs start at a broad black slab with a recess and twin cracks running up it.
1. 35m 4c. Climb the cracks in the recess to the slab, then up the continuation of the cracks and recess above, pulling out left on top. Climb up diagonally left for 3m to the brown bulging wall. Climb this through its centre via a series of faults (strenuous pulls at about 3m, crux) on good holds until it lies back a bit and then straight up to belay behind a holly tree.
2. 15m 4a. Climb the cracks and grooves above the belay holly on good holds and friction to a small spike. Climb the ground directly above for about 4m. Start standing on spike, using rounded finger pulls and good friction to gain the heather ledge below the white speckled wall. Traverse right on heather ledge for 4m to a corner. Straight up this (a wee bit off balance to start) for 3m to Forest Ledge and tree belay.
T. Irving C. Rice 26/3/2017
See topos of the next 7 routes at page 58
FOREST RHAPSODY ** 110m VS (4c,4a,4a,4b)
A popular classic, the lower pitches of which form the usual approach to routes high on the crag. Start at the foot of the clean, pleasantly inclined arête above Acorn Buttress (Base Camp), just right of the waterfall area.
1. 12m Climb the arête with a thoughtful move midway. Belay in the notch or alternatively reach this point by scrambling up easily from the left.
2. 40m Climb the slab on the left and move up slightly right to follow a long, easy groove to a tree belay on Forest Ledge.
3. 15m M Scramble leftwards, up a double step, to a wide ledge under a steep, clean wall (Forest Wall). A large block is embedded in the ledge.
4. 21m Step off the block onto a higher ledge. Move 1m to the right and make a delicate stride further right across a niche; out diagonally right and climb the wall above to a terrace.
5. 22m An infamous mantelshelf surmounts the square-cut block above. Climb steep shelves and ledges on the left of the recess. Generous holds where needed. Exit via a short slab, often damp.
S. Rothery, F. Winder, (Pitches 2 - 5) 26/10/1952.
Pitch 1 added shortly afterwards, probably by P. Gordon, P. Kenny, S. Rothery.
Variation: Limbo * 20m VS (4c) 2a. Follow Pitch 2 to the base of a quartzy fault but then traverse right to the base of a groove on the right side of the arête. Climb the groove and then a sloping ramp for a few metres before exiting to the left of the ridge above.
Variation 19m HS (4b) 4a. Before the double step leading to upper Forest Ledge there is a distinctive pillar - Ifreann. Climb this, step left onto the wall, move up to an overlap. Surmount this to gain a ledge and crack leading to the terrace or, alternatively, climb the wall to the right of the crack (4c/5a).
P. Kenny, M. Monahan, 1954.
BIKE, NO SADDLE. 27m. VS (4c, 4c)
Two corners, divided by a sloping shelf above a short vertical wall.
1. Start as for Boru and scramble up an easy-angled rib to a pulpit-type ledge. Move left up a small rib of rock to a large ledge at the base of a vertical wall. This is "Shite Ledge". Climb the quartz corner on the right, traverse left to pull onto a sloping triangular ledge. (Variation: move left along the wall, gain a lower ledge, step up to the higher ledge) Belay here.
2. Climb the corner on the left over a small triangular flat slab. Move right , pull up and over to another sloping ledge at the base of the last corner (Variation: Move left and gain the ledge directly). This is 'Feckin Ants' ledge. Step onto the arête, using two small toe ledges to gain height. Move your feet back to the left face of the arête onto a upward trending narrow crack . Delicately edge up this to reach a good hold on the left wall above a small triangular alcove. Bridge in the corner to the top. Swing right around the aréte onto a narrow ledge. Belay from an oak tree.
K. Coakley, pitch 1. K. Doyle, pitch 2. 01/06/2013
LARA. 30m E1 (4c,5b,4c)
1. Start as for BIKE, NO SADDLE. Traverse left along the wall above "Shite Ledge". Step up onto a small ledge directly below an open book corner. Belay here.
2. Bridge up the corner, stepping onto a narrow edge at head height on the left hand wall. Bridge higher to reach a narrow horizontal finger ledge on the right hand wall. Pull up, bridge and step onto the finger ledge. Step up on small bumps to reach a large crack at the back of the ledge above. Large cam useful here. Step onto the ledge. Belay here.
3. Climb delicately up the slab above using small cracks. Belay from a large boulder on Forest Ledge.
Pitch 1 and 2 can be run together.
K. Coakley, pitch 1. K. Doyle, pitch 2 (cleaned on abseil), pitch 3. 06/10/2013
BORU * 22m E1 (5b)
A seldom climbed but worthwhile pitch below Forest Ledge. Diagonally right of the start of Forest Rhapsody there is a gite - a small bivouac - with a large tree above. About 6m above and to the right of this tree a shallow corner-groove runs up the wall. Scramble up an easy-angled rib to a pulpit-type ledge. Move up to a stance below a bulging corner (often damp) and then up and right to gain a sloping ledge on the right with difficulty. Make an unseemly bridging move left to reach a sharp crack in the groove. Pull over into the corner. Continue up past two further bulges with increasing ease.
K. Higgs, H. O Brien, 9/4/1978.
RUTH'S CHIMNEY 87m S (3c,4a,4a)
Start about 15m right of Boru at the first of two pillars near a small ash tree.
1. 29m D Climb the pillar and up to trees. Follow a series of vegetated grooves to a tree-covered ledge. Move left to the base of a chimney or avoid the pitch entirely by taking Forest Rhapsody to the terrace and moving 20m right to the base of the Pitch 2 chimney.
2. 18m Climb the chimney, pulling out left near the top.
3. 15m Climb the short chimney above to a holly tree (shared with Ifreann). Take the short, clean, square-cut chimney on the left and reach the large inset ledge on Forest Rhapsody.
4. 25m Traverse left along a gangway, passing under Lethe Direct and finishing leftward up Lethe.
R. Ohrtmann, P. Hill, P. Panayotou, 2/11/1952.
The next two climbs are found on a steep, clean slab a short distance to the right of Ruth's Chimney.
61. GRACELAND ** 33m E3 (6a)
Takes the impressive, thin cracks that barely scrape the surface of the wall left of Setanta. Follow Setanta to the first bulge. Climb the left-hand crack until it is possible to reach a good flake on the left. Mantel onto the flake. Step left and climb the fine broken cracks to the top.
H. Hebblethwaite, May 1988.
SETANTA ** 33m E1 (5b)
A long and varied pitch of sustained impact. It starts from the short, distinct pillar at the foot of the slab and follows the quartz fault running diagonally up until it is possible to leave it and climb directly onto the upper wall.
From the top of the pillar step across and up to a grassy ledge. Move diagonally up onto the thin quartz line and follow it to an overlap (old peg, now gone 30/9/15). Pull directly up a thin crack with a confident reach and gain a narrow ledge. Step right to the arête and climb up more easily to a tree belay. Abseil off.
P. O Halpin, E. Healy (one aid point), 29/4/1962.
S. Windrim, D. Windrim (first free ascent), 1974.
Variation: Direct Finish E2 (5c) instead of stepping right to the arête, continue directly up from the narrow ledge, with a couple of weightless moves, to the tree belay.
S. McMullen, D. Owens, 1999.
EAST WING – UPPER TIER
Above the left end of Forest Ledge is Forest Wall where the rock has the appearance of a fairly open face. Around the corner at the left edge of Forest Wall there is a steep triangular wall with pronounced cracks (Celia, Jackey). Route descriptions for the Upper Tier begin to the left of this wall and right of the waterfall. To reach this area from the top of pitch 2 of Forest Rhapsody traverse left below Forest Wall, climb a short wall to round the corner and follow a ramp under the wall of Jackey. Scramble up a vegetated corner to a spacious ledge at the base of a steep corner with a small overhang at mid-height (Bruce's Corner).
See topos of the next 8 routes at page 61
AUTUMN LEAF ** 22m E4 (6a)
Climbs the faint crack up the wall a few metres left of Bruce's Corner. An early effort in the modern idiom – thin wall climbing, small wires.
Climb Bruce's Corner to just below the roof. Step left onto the arête and up this to the small overhang. Get straight up onto the wall and follow the thin crack to the top.
K. Murphy, I. Ryan, (one rest point), 4/11/1984.
H. Hebblethwaite (first free ascent), August 1987.
BRUCE'S CORNER ** 21m VS (4c)
One of the better routes of its grade, when dry. Climb the distinctive corner with a long reach past the roof to a hidden jug.
B. Rodgers, P. McDermott, June 1969.
ELBOW ROOM 20m HVS (5b)
Climbs the clean wall right of Bruce's Corner. Well protected. Start a few metres right of the corner. Move up and climb a shallow groove. At a good flat foothold make a long step right and climb the wall direct, moving slightly left to finish.
K. Higgs, S. Nolan, 22/6/1983.
MICA WALL 19m VD
Takes the comfortable, rambling wall to the right of Elbow Room. A useful escape route although furze bushes are now invading it.
P. Kenny, B. Moss, 8/3/1953.
The next two routes are on the first steep wall around the corner from Forest Wall.
JACKEY ** 29m VS (4c)
Takes the leftmost crack on the clean, triangular face just around to the left of Forest Wall. Starts as a pair of thin cracks. Some astonishing holds.
P. Higgins, E. Gaffney (one aid point), March 1963.
E. Goulding (first free ascent), shortly afterwards.
CELIA *** 29m VS (4c)
A classic crack, just right of Jackey. Holds diminish and intimidation increases with height but protection remains supportive throughout. Starts as for Jackey. Take the righthand crack and near the top make a delicate step right to the arête and follow this more or less to the top.
E. Goulding, P. Higgins, E. Gaffney, March 1963.
The following routes start from Forest Ledge.
See topos of the next 17 routes at page 67 and page 67 detail
AISLING ARÊTE ** 28m VS (4c)
Takes a deep crack near the left edge of Forest Wall. A steep pitch and a varied exercise on the crack motif. The original first pitches below Forest Ledge are scrappy and are now bypassed so Forest Rhapsody is the usual approach.
Climb the left edge of Forest Wall and then step right into the wide crack or, alternatively, reach this point directly via a crack. Continue up the crack and a short corner before finishing up the arête to the right past a perched block to belay.
P. Kenny, B. Moss, 8/3/1953 (Led without any runners whatever; top of crack was vegetated so Kenny moved out left to arête by thin moves to finish by the line later taken by the upper portion of Celia, hence the name Aisling arête).
P. Kenny, J. McKenzie, Direct Start off Forest Ledge, 1971.
CONCRETE WALLFLOWER ** 28m E1 (5b)
An exciting climb requiring a studied approach; delicate to start with a strenuous finish.
Start 2m right of Aisling Arête, directly above the boulder embedded in Forest Ledge. Climb the wall just left of the thin seam: small wires. A breathless move gains a ledge at 13m (crux). Climb up steeply right to the overlaps. There are good holds high above.
K. Higgs, June 1977.
LETHE ** 31m VS (4c)
Start 4m right of Aisling arête, follow the tempting quartzy crack to a ledge and gain a crack on the right with difficulty. Up this with increasing difficulty until an escape left is possible at the foot of an ominous, steep groove. Continue up left past a perched block to finish.
P. Kenny, F. Winder, S. Rothery, 25/4/1954.
LETHE DIRECT * 15m HVS (5b)
From the top of the quartz crack on Lethe climb the continuation groove directly to a furze ledge. Escape easily left or finish up the steep crack above.
J. Tobin (at least 2 aid points), 1966.
S. Billane, J. Colgan (one aid point), 1971.
P. O Leary, (first free ascent), 1972.
PHOTO FINISH * 30m E2 (5c)
Start on top of the Ifreann pillar on lower Forest Ledge. Climb the groove to the right of the arête leading towards the left end of the overhang above. Gain the ledge above with difficulty and continue up more easily on the pleasant wall above to ledge and belay. Finish up as for Forest Rhapsody.
J. Price, 1983.
Alternative Finish (5c) Step out right onto the wall from the ledge above overhang. Pass the overlap and climb the slab above following the hairline crack to ledge and belay.
T. O'Neill, S. Daly 14/6/2009
IFREANN * 96m E1 (4b,5a,5b,4b)
A neglected route with a scrappy start but interesting upper pitches. The crux is difficult to protect and often damp. It can be avoided by climbing Pitch 3 of Ruth's Chimney, reducing the grade to VS.
Start above and right of Acorn Buttress, from the roof of the gite – a cave formed by two enormous boulders.
1. 21m D From the top of the gite climb rock and vegetation to the bottom of a large groove containing a conspicuous holly tree.
2. 20m Climb the groove behind the holly tree. Pull out right at the top and continue up vegetation and a short groove to a large ledge. Scramble 6m along a path on the left to a large pillar (below and to the left of a prominent rectangular overhang).
3. 18m Move out through the window behind the pillar and pull up to a small ledge on the slab. Move up right to a vertical crack on the right of the overhang. Follow this to a ledge and a tree belay.
4. 15m From the holly tree step up right into a wide groove. Follow this to the base of an overhanging V-chimney. Climb this (crux) with increasing difficulty. Pull out onto a small ledge on the left and continue up left to an inset terrace.
5. 22m Finish up Pitch 5 of Forest Rhapsody.
F. Winder, N. Masterson, C. McCormack led upper three pitches (one aid point on the Window Pitch later eliminated by E. Goulding),
11/10/1953. E. Healy, F. Winder added Pitches 1 & 2 circa 1956.
IFREANN DIRECT *** 18m HVS (5b)
A superb finger-jamming crack, intense and engaging, lasting all too short a time. Start about 4m right of the pillar on Ifreann where a steep, thin crack runs up the right side of the prominent, rectangular overhang. It is hardest at the start. Excellent protection.
E. Goulding, J. Tobin, S. Rothery, P. Kavanagh, 6/3/1966.
GREEN CRISIS 30m E4 (5c)
Start as for Ifrean Direct. Follow crack to just past the roof. Move out left to gain arete and follow this to finish on the ledge above. No protection on arete.
Jan Kuczera 20/6/2009
IFREANN ARÊTE ** 18m E1 (5b)
The obvious arête right of the crack on Ifreann Direct. It is difficult to start, sustained and unprotected in the lower section. The finishing moves over the bulge near the top are hard.
C. Torrans, C. Sheridan, 20/11/1980.
HIGH PROFILE ** 40m E2 (5c,4c)
Follows the hatchet crack up the clean, brown wall immediately right of Ifreann chimney and then up a hanging nose of rock. The route is said to be outstanding but ascents are infrequent because it is so seldom dry. Start at the holly belay at the top of Ifreann Direct.
1. 20m Move up and right to the base of the wall. Climb the steep crack, awkward to start, strenuous to finish. Follow an easier-angled groove for 7m to a good stance.
2. 20m Climb the groove above the belay until forced to move out right to a hanging nose. Move up and then back left into the groove. Follow through to a good stance in a recess. Escape right to the path.
K. Higgs, J. Domoney, 1/8/1983.
SEBASTIAN ** 54m E1 (4a,5b)
A fine, unjustly neglected route. Start on the ledge a few metres right of Ifreann Arête, below a short wall.
1. 14m Climb the wall to the base of a chimney and up to a holly tree (Ifreann belay).
2. 25m Traverse right beneath a steep wall. Pull around the corner into a groove. An awkward move up leads to better holds. Continue up the corner above. When the crack fades out make a long step right to reach a flat hold. Climb a short groove to reach a good, triangular foothold. Traverse right into the next groove (crux). Climb this and move right to a tree belay.
3. 15m Diff. Go diagonally left to the top. Belay on the descent path.
E. Healy, F. Winder, S. Rothery (several aid points), 3/9/1961.
L. Griffin (First free ascent) 1973.
HEMLOCK AND AFTER ** 45m E4 (6b)
A safe and sporty route up the leaning wall left of Sebastian. Start off Forest Ledge directly below the huge corner of Sebastian. Climb a blunt arête to join Sebastian in the corner. Move up the corner for 3m and step left onto the overhung wall. Locks, rocks and jugs deposit one at a hollow flake. Clamber right onto the ramp which is followed to the crux corner. Small wires protect gymnastic bridging. Finish easily.
D. O Sullivan, H. Hebblethwaite, 28/6/1992.
GREAT NORTH ROAD ** 45m E3 (3c,5c,4c)
A strenuous and sustained climb taking a crack and squarecut overhang. Well protected. Start 3m to the right of the foot of Pitch 2 of Ruth's Chimney.
1. 6m Step off a large block up a vegetated groove on the right to a tree belay below a short wall.
2. 21m Climb the wall above, moving right (awkward) and up to the base of a short, flared chimney. Surmount this with difficulty (crux) and climb the steep finger crack above to an overhang. Climb this on the left to gain a small belay ledge.
3. 18m Move up a groove and then out right to a ledge. Continue up a short wall with an awkward finish to reach some trees. Continue to the top more easily.
A. Ingram, K. Shelley, E. Goulding (aid route, A2), 31/3/1962.
K. Higgs, C. Torrans (first free ascent), 31/8/1980.
CONTRABAND ** 35m E4 (6a)
A fine groove and wall climb between Great North Road and Shanghai Corner. Start at the detached block 5m right of Great North Road. Climb onto a slab via the block to gain the base of the steep wall. Climb the centre of the wall to a large ledge. Make a long reach left to the groove. Up this, using holds on the right wall, until an awkward move right gains a spacious ledge. Move right to a short ramp which leads back left to a thread belay. Abseil off or continue easily to the top.
D. O Sullivan, 21/7/1985.
SHANGHAI CORNER ** 50m E3 (5c,4a)
Begins on the forested ledge just above Setanta and right of Contraband. Takes the obvious slanting corner. Excellent technical climbing. From the right-hand end of Forest Ledge traverse further right on vegetation until it is possible to climb back left and gain a solid oak belay below an overhang.
1. 30m Move left and up to a small roof. Gain a groove above and trend slightly left. Climb straight up (thought provoking) to reach a bulging corner (old peg). Up this (crux), keeping just to the right of the corner, to reach holds above. These improve with height. Trend slightly right to gain a belay on the slab at the top of the groove.
2. 20m Climb the slab and continue up vegetation to a spike belay by the descent path.
K. Higgs, A. Dawe, 13/8/1983.
ROCK ISLAND LINE * 39m E3 (4c,6a)
A steep route through the green-stained overhangs. Start just right of Shanghai Corner.
1. 15m Move left and up to a small roof. Make a delicate, diagonal step right. Pull into a steep groove above on good holds. Follow this to a small stance below the green-stained overhang.
2. 24m Climb the groove above and make a hard, gymnastic move left below the overhang onto the arête. Climb up onto a slab and continue to the top.
C. Rice, D. Milnes (2 aid points), 1971.
T. Burke, P. O' (first free ascent, not previously recorded), early March 1984.
K. Murphy, T. Ryan, (next ascent), 23/4/1984.
Variation: Direct Finish * 24m E3 (6a) 2a. This takes the prominent quartz vein through the overhang up and right from the belay at the start of Pitch 2. Traverse leftwards across the final slab to belay as for the normal finish.
D. O' J. Dugdale, 15/8/1992.
DREAM OF FAIR TO MIDDLING WOMEN * 38m E1 (4c, 5b)
1. 20m Climb Pitch 1 of Goulding Route.
2. 18m Climb the quartz groove, the small overhang (crux) and the right-facing corner directly behind the tree belay. Finish up the slab to the left and belay well back.
D. O' J. Dugdale, 15/8/1992.
GOULDING ROUTE 35m VS (4c, 4b)
1. 20m As for Rock Island Line but instead of climbing the steep groove continue up diagonally right to a tree. Belay.
2. 15m Move right and up the groove to the top.
E. Goulding, P. Higgins, J. Tobin, August 1963.
The next three routes are located on an easy-angled slab above and just right of the main bulk of Twin Buttress, before the Upper Cliffs stand to attention. The slab is about 30m in length and faces the Upper Lake.
WIM 12m M
Follow the lowest fault which goes obliquely across the slab from lower right to upper left, starting approximately at the bottom centre.
P. Kenny, B. Moss, 1/3/1953.
WIGOUR 24m D
Ascend easily to the crack of Witality but leave it to move left and follow another slight fault which rises obliquely to the left and ends on the heathery slope, or, a HS finish may be taken by going straight up the left edge of the slab instead of joining the heather slope.
P. Kenny, B. Moss, 1/3/1953.
WITALITY 27m S
A pleasant little climb, mild in the grade. Take the faint crack which goes straight up on the right side of the slab.
P. Kenny, B. Moss, 1/3/1953.
GIRDLE TRAVERSE OF TWIN BUTTRESS 325m VS
Start as for Ifreann.
1. 21m Pitch 1 of Ifreann.
2. 21m Pitch 2 of Ifreann.
3. 18m Move right and climb Pitch 2 of Ruth's Chimney.
4. 15m Climb Pitch 3 of Ruth's Chimney to the upper ledge of Forest Rhapsody.
5. 22m Descend Pitch 3 of Forest Rhapsody.
6. 20m Climb Pitch 1 of Lethe. Move left on a ledge and gain the upper part of Aisling and move up to a ledge.
7. 15m Move a few metres up the rib on the left, traverse across Mica Wall and down to a ledge.
8. 24m Climb the last pitch of Lag Mara to the step across the waterfall and then traverse left to a grass ledge.
9. 7m Descend above the last pitch of Caol Uisce down a short crack at the side of the waterfall.
10. 15m Cross the waterfall by a wide ledge and blocks.
11. Scramble left to the start of Aphrodite.
12. 18m Climb Pitch 2 of Aphrodite to the trees.
13. Gain the upper grass ledge on the left.
14. 9m Move left and descend the vertical corner to the tree stance and the start of the last pitch of Great Corner.
15. 15m Descend the vegetated pitch of Great Corner to a grass ledge. Move left and belay on a good ledge.
16. 20m Make the Fanfare step-around, continue up Fanfare to Nightmare Ledge, move left to belay in Holly Tree Shunt.
17. 15m Climb Holly Tree Shunt to where it is possible to traverse to the top of the crux pitch of Quartz Gully.
18. 21m Descend the upper part of the crux pitch of Quartz Gully to the hand-traverse. Move left past holly to Pitch 2 of Ffolly.
19. 15m Climb Ffolly up to the last pitch of Deirdre.
20. 24m Descend Expectancy.
E. Healy, S. Rothery, 31/7/1961.