This forest is run by Coillte, and situated on the North side of the Dingle peninsula in a small valley. The cliffs feature everything from short and bouldery routes to soaring aretes and corners, bold lines to test your nerve on or burly cracks to find out whether you're a climber who fights or a fighter who climbs. Many of these are unclimbed, and in an absolutely stunning setting.
From Tralee, take the N86 towards Camp and Castlegregory. At Knockglass, where the N86 turns left to go to Anascaul, go straight on and follow the main road for about 8 kilometers, passing by camp, until you see a sign saying Glanteenassig forest. A turn on the left a little bit after this sign brings you onto a smaller road, which you follow into the valley, seeing some incredible rock walls on the way. Turn right at the forest entrance and proceed to the upper lake, where there is space for cars.
Rock Type and Protection
The rock type in Glanteenassig is very like that of the Gap of Dunloe - red sandstone. It is however harder and more weathered than the rock in the gap. The rock is very grippy, offers good protection and routes can be and have been done on traditional gear. Bear this in mind if you go to do a new route. Small nuts and cams are a necessity at the only crag we've climbed at at the moment.
Access seems fine, as there are loads of hikers and walkers as well as fishermen around, and there is a public boardwalk going all the way around the upper lake, as well as a carpark and picnic tables. The area is really nice, so respect it and it's other users an there should be no problems.
Usual traditional grading is most suitable.
This is a relatively short crag at the back of the upper lake offering a few very good routes. It is so named because a waterfall divides the crag in two. Anchors are well back from the top.
Dig it? 1 E2 5b 15m (B. Hall, D. Duggan (Ground-up after abseil cleaning)) June 10 2011
Great climbing. Takes the line up the gently overhanging arete on the left side of the tall part of the crag. Start just to the right of a grassy step. Climb up to reach a right trending crackline. Follow this crack to a footledge, arrange gear, then climb up and left on a series of slopers and crimps (bold) to where the arete kicks back and gear can be placed. Climb this to the top.
Crag is so named as it lies facing a stream seperating two large pools. When facing away from the crag, the number 3 can be seen in the right hand pool. Access is from the top car park where climbers should drop down and use the wooden walkway to get as close to the rock face as possible, a detour off left and then by heading towards the prominent corner of the crag should bring climbers to the best point to start and drop gear. Routes are right to left from this corner. Abseil steaks can be used as anchors for routes on the faces either side of this corner.
Chicken and Waffles 1 HS 4b 10m (J. Hale, K. Mc Donnell & C. Ó Liatháin (Ground up)) June 18 2011
First obvious line left of the corner, go straight up through the middle over a horizontal break, left of the prominent flake. Avoid the temptation to escape out right and use the flake or left at the top to use the jugs (climber will be rewarded with a super positive crimp when line is maintained). Gear is sparse but good.
Is this a ledge? 1 VS/HVS 4c 10m (J. Hale, K. Mc Donnell & C. Ó Liatháin (Ground up)) June 18 2011
A bold face climb of sloppers and highsteps, 3m left of Chicken and Waffles, climbs the face up through a horizontal break at 3m, last point of protection just above 5m. The top of the route is in need of some real gardening but should reveal move points of protection and lower the grade back to VS.
Halfling 1 E5 6C (B. Hall, H. Wallace) March 16th 2015
Short and stout, this route takes the steep, jagged crackline. Climb a juggy flake to reach the right trending flared crack. A series of unlikely and unconventional moves will deposit you on the top. Only the creative need apply.
This is the main wall you see on top of the steep slope at the back of the upper lake. It consists of 3 rocky bands with breaks in between (mostly vegetated).
Deja Vu Gully 1 HS 120m (S.Bender & R.Toma) October 13 2012
Left of center you see a diagonal break tending to the right and crossing all rocky bands, this is the gully.
Haul yourself up the very steep slope to the base of the rock face. From here proceed to the base of the gully.
Pitch 1. Its best to set up a belay here, as a slip of the first rocky step will send you tumbling till you hit the lake. Climb up this step (Diff 5m) till you reach the second obstacle. Belay.
Pitch 2. Stay to the right of a big (wet) boulder blocking your way (S 5m). Not many good positive holds and poor pro. good pro above this obstacle though. Continue to third obstacle. Belay.
Pitch 3. Climb third obstacle (Vertical, very loose and very poor pro, rounded of by a hard exit move holding onto heather, HS 10m) A small bit above the exit you'll find a good belay.
Pitch 4. After this its either continuing on pitched with a body belay at the top, move together or solo.... depending on your confidence level. Walk up the summit slope to bag Stradbally Mountain if you feel like it.