Glanearagh south

From Irish Climbing Online Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search

Glaneragh (lower crags)

These crags are situated on the southern side of the Glaneragh headland first climbed by Chris Jackson and Co in the 1990’s. The crags are much smaller than their northern counterparts but offer excellent climbing on solid rock with good natural anchors.

From Finians Bay take the steep hill up towards Coomanaspig. Before reaching the top take the bothairín at V368 691. Follow this to a collection of houses. Park at the small lay-by before the walk Crioch End sign. Access is an issue so approach with caution and large groups are not recommended. Head across the fields and descend steeply to the top of the cliffs.

There are several crags only a few of which have been explored at present. Most of the climbs start at sea level so are not possible with a high swell although Amelie’s Wall and Swell Pickings can be climbed in a moderate swell. The crags are described as they are encountered as you make your way back toward Finians Bay.

Sophie’s Wall

Swell Pickings, E1 5c, 15m
R. Doody, J. Hussey, 07/08/2016
Start at the base of a steep ramp about half way down the crag. Climb the ramp via a thin crack to the ledge. Protection is poor initially. From the ledge head directly up the wall on better gear. Try to avoid using the spike if possible.

Corners of the Mind, VS 4c, 30m
J.Hussey, M.Finn, 07/05/2017
This climbs the corner between the Southern side of Sophie’s wall and the adjacent wall. An excellent route. Start at the base of the corner and climb to the top. Gear is excellent in the corner and on the right wall.

Amelie’s Wall

This crag is further along as you head back towards Finian’s Bay. The rock is darker and more featured than Sophie’s wall but is still good quality.

Dumbledore’s Army, VS 4c, 25m
J.Hussey, R. Doody, 07/08/2016
Abseil to the first large ledge on the crag. The line follows the prominent overlap in the centre of the wall. Climb through the overlap on good gear to the base of a steep corner. Continue strenuously to the top on good gear.

The next set of climbs are on a series of crags at the entrance to a small inlet. Although smaller they offer excellent climbing. They are characterized by a large rock platform at the top that offers great anchors.

Juno’s Wall

This wall is the most prominent of the smaller crags characterized by the large crack line in the middle of the wall.

The Swiss Machine, VS 4b, 15m
M. Finn, J.Hussey, 07/05/2017
Climb the obvios crack in the middle of the wall. Protection is very good.

Wedding Spoiler, HS 4b, 15m
J.Hussey, M. Finn, 07/05/2017
Climb the off width corner on the left hand side of the crag. Tenuous moves initially lead you into the off width which is followed strenuously to the top.

Though shalt not covet thy neighbours crack, HVS 5a, 15m
J.Hussey, M. Finn, 07/05/2017
This climbs the thin crack immediately right of Wedding Spoiler. Resist the temptation to use the corner if possible. The less you use the corner the harder the climb.

Body Jam, VS 4c, 12m
J.Hussey, M. Finn, 07/05/2017
This climbs the large off width corner around to the right of Juno’s Wall and needs to be abbed into separately. Initial delicate moves lead into the main crack. Good gear is possible at first but as the crack widens it becomes more difficult to protect without very big cam’s however you are quite secure if you can body jam.