Fauscoum

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This coum lies to the immediate south of Coumshingaun, although not named on the new O. S. map, sheet 75. The cliff lies at the west of the coum at about 600 meters in altitude, and is east facing (Grid Ref. S324104). Approach - The easiest approach involves walking from the southern edge of Kilclooney wood where it is possible to park (grid ref S342097). Heading west, follow the edge of the forest until the corner, then keeping to the right of a small stream follow some vague sheep-trails to the coum. Allow about one hour for the 2 km. approach. The cliff is approximately 16m in height and slightly off vertical.


PADDY'S CABBAGE 16m VS 4c J Bergin, M Keenleyside. August 1995 This climb takes the obvious corner about 8m to the left of Riverdance. Start at a ledge which tends to remain damp in all conditions. Make an awkward move to pull onto a large block and thus get established at the base of the corner which is climbed to the top. (a large piece of gear is desirable to protect the top moves. . . . no 5 friend!!)


RIVERDANCE 16m E1 5b J Bergin, M Keenleyside. August 1995 This excellent little route follows the very obvious steep corner with a large detached block which is approximately 2 meters to the right of Fools And Horses. The start is slightly off-putting as there is some water seepage in all weathers. Do not let this put you off, as the quality of the route increases with height gained. The crux is about two-thirds of the way up.


FOOLS AND HORSES 16m HVS 5a J Bergin, M Keenleyside. June 1995 This climb is about 6 meters to the left of Back To School and 2 meters to the right of Riverdance. Start at the base of a rightward trending diagonal crack. Climb this rough rock with 'confidence' to gain better territory at the base of the small overlap. Surmount this on good flakey holds to a vertical crack. Follow this and another parallel crack to the top.


BACK TO SCHOOL 16m S J Bergin, M Keenleyside. August 1995 This climb takes the broken arête to the left of the black seepage-stained area of rock which is at the right of the cliff. Start on a flat ledge to the left of the arête proper. Good jams for the left hand enable you to get off the ground, then move right onto the face to bypass the overhanging/impending sections.