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The Small Crag

The Small Crag is an edge 1km long and high above the north side of the scenic Murlough Bay. It is a continuation, though thinner, of the same dolerite sill which forms the Main Crag of Fair Head. The best approach for all routes is from the National Trust car park at the head of Murlough Bay. From here a path runs northwards along the cliff top towards Fair Head. The cliff line from the car park to the Main Crag can be very broadly divided into two shallow bays, each approximately a kilometre in length.

The first bay is the Small Crag. It starts at the Backwoods Buttress, 150m north of the car park. It then sweeps below Lough Fadden before rising up to form a gentle crest. The crag is never more than 20m in height and is broken by several narrow gullies and weaknesses. Just beyond the crest are a wire fence and wooden stile, this marks the northerly limit of the Small Crag.

The second bay continues northwards sweeping round to join the Main Crag at December. Here the cliff is higher than the Small Crag, but the rock is generally poorer and more vegetated. Consequently there are no routes in this second bay with the exception of one steep wall situated about 200m north of the wire fence. This has been imaginatively named the Middle Crag and has five routes, all recommended.

The Small Crag has never had more than a handful of devotees. Whilst this is understandable due to the more compelling attractions of the Main Crag, it is unfortunate as the Small Crag offers some good and varied climbing. Steep technical cracks, delicate slabs, fine arêtes, walls and pinnacles can all be found. There is now a wide range of difficulty (up to 6b) and a variation in quality from the excellent to the atrocious.

As the crag faces east, most of the routes catch the sun until early afternoon, and both climbers and midges are well sheltered from the prevailing winds. The ground below the crag is heavily wooded, especially south of Seeds of the Weeds and north of Morning. This makes approaching routes along the base of the cliff unpleasant, particularly in summer, after rain, or with a hangover. Generally it is better to approach from above, descending into the jungle at the last possible opportunity. Recommended descents for the different sections of crag have been given.

Excepting a few of the slabby walls and arêtes, protection is generally adequate. Friends and small wires are useful.

The routes have been described from south to north, that is left to right as you face the cliff.

150m along the cliff-top path from the Murlough Bay car park there is a gate and stile. Directly below this lies a small steep buttress known as Backwoods Buttress. It is set slightly in front of the main cliff line, is quick to dry and has three routes. From the gate walk 25m down the unmetalled track and the best descent is on your left.

1. Backwoods Jellyroll * 18m VS (4c)
J McDonald, S Reid, A Whitcroft. 6/1984.
Start at the left of the steepest and cleanest face of the buttress in a groove. Climb the groove and surmount a jammed block at 8m (crux). Move awkwardly rightwards to gain a steep blocky recess. Finish up this and belay well back.

2. Epileptic Grasshopper * 18m E1 (5b)
T McQueen, A Lyttle, J McDonald. 12/1983.
Start about 3m right of Backwoods Jellyroll below the steep thin crack which splits the main face of the buttress. Mantelshelf and climb the crack using face holds (crux). Continue into the recess and finish as for Backwoods Jellyroll.

3. Droughting About 18m HS (4b)
P Mallon, J McDonald. 8/1984.
Start about 11m right of Epileptic Grasshopper beyond the steep grassy fault. Climb a blocky line moving slightly leftwards and continue up the groove above (crux). Traverse right and climb a short steep wall. Continue carefully to the top.

The next routes start about 8Om north along the main cliff, at a fallen tree. The best approach is by continuing straight ahead where the cliff-top path takes the stile by the gate.

3a Dirty Elvis 16m VS (4c)
G Carleton, A Donnely. 21/03/2010.
Climb the face and edge of the large block to the left of the bay, step up from the block to find a good crimp (crux), then climb the cracks to a level stance before climbing on blocky holds to the top.

3b Diggers Delight 16m E1 (5b)
G Carleton, A Donnely. 21/03/2010.
Climb the bay to the shallow roof, step up right to gain the crack (crux), climb the crack and trend left to the level stance and finish as for Dirty Elvis.

About 20m further along there are three pinnacles, the first two reach a height level with the cliff top and the third is lower.

4. PP * 20m VS (4b)
T McQueen, A Lyttle. 10/1982.
Start at a curving hand-sized crack on the left side of the front of the first pinnacle. Move up passing two jammed blocks and step right to the crack leading to the top of the pinnacle. Climb this, the overhang at the top being the crux. The descent is by a short easy chimney and a scramble to the cliff top proper.

4a The Gypsies Nicked Me Squeegee 25m E2/3 (6a)
A Marshall, S Gordon. 17/02/2005.
Start 9m to the right of PP, up around the corner at the bottom of the crack. Make a hard move off the ground to gain the crack. Climb on positive edges until possible to traverse right to a flake. Climb diagonally left on good holds to reach the arête. Make a couple of airy moves to reach a jug, step right and continue on good holds to the top. Descend as for PP.

5. The Stump 12m HS (4b)
T McQueen, A Lyttle, P Mallon. 10/1984.
A route of awesome insignificance up the right-hand (north) side of the lowest pinnacle. Climb the obvious shattered crack line, using a hanging block to pass a little tree on the ledge at half height.

The dirty crack line just around the corner on the front face has also been climbed. Traverse right near the top. Slightly easier but no better.

No. 1 Gully is about 150m beyond the gate and stile. It is not obvious being more of a grassy corner than a gully and is not particularly useful, giving access only to the following two rather scrappy routes. It may be distinguished by a conifer tree at the bottom.

6. Voluminous Overcoats 16m VS (4c)
S Billane. 10/1975.
Start about 25m left of No. 1 Gully, about 10m right of a continually damp section of crag. Climb the short slab and the steep corner crack.

7. Skin the Goat 16m HVS (5a)
C Torrans. 20/12/1975.
This route takes the steep wall right of Voluminous Overcoats. Awkward moves left from a shelf to the crack at half height, then easy climbing to the top.

No. 2 Gully is a narrow deep-cut north-facing gully about 50m past No. 1. The e next 6 routes are between No. 1 and No. 2 Gullies and can be approached by either. Routes further north can be approached from No. 2 Gully. All the routes in this area are slow to dry.

8. Horse Feathers * 15m VS (4b)
I Rea, M Rea. 7/7/1984.
This takes a groove about 30m right of No. 1 Gully and 5m left and up the slope from Duck Soup. Gain a large layback flake at two-thirds height and finish up the deep crack to the left.

9. Pat's Route * 18m VS (4c)
P Nolan. 5/1985.
The crack line 2m right of Horse Feathers. The crux is the bulge at 4m. Continue up passing some chockstones, near the top step right to finish up the arête.

10. Duck Soup * 20m VS (4c)
I Rea, M Rea, R Lawson. 7/7/1984.
Start left of a tree-infested section of the crag in a shallow groove at the toe of the buttress. Climb the groove leading to the wall above. At the heather ledge step left and climb the arête (shared with Pat's Route).

11. One Crack Mind * 20m HVS (5b)
T McQueen, A Lyttle. 7/1984.
10m left of No. 2 Gully is a pillar split by a crack. The route follows this crack, good climbing but slow to dry completely.

12. The Jungle Line * 18m VS (4c)
T McQueen. 8/1983.
The corner just left of No. 2 Gully and right of the pillar of One Crack Mind. Excellent jams with useful holds on the right for the top half.

13. Second Choice 18m S (4a)
R Green, D McKay. 10/1974.
Start as for The Jungle Line. Climb the corner crack moving right into the groove. Climb the groove and continue to the top. A poor route.

There is a small buttress to the right of No. 2 Gully with some overhangs at mid height. The next three routes are found here.

14. Zoot Horn Rollo 15m VS (4c)
T McQueen, P McClenaghan. 27/8/1989.
The crack line 2m left and up from Aghaidh na Muice.

15. Aghaidh Na Muice 18m VS (4c)
S Billane. 2/1974.
Climb a crack into a little groove beneath a small triangular overhang. Pass this on the right and follow the crack to the top.

16. Sexter's Route 18m VS (4c)
W J Baxter, D McKay. 1974.
Climb the wide crack right of Aghaidh Na Muice passing just right of a larger overhang.

17. Wink 20m VS (4c)
S Billane, V McCartney. 9/2/1975.
Start at an undercut arête about 10m right of Sexter's Route and left of a grassy wall. After a difficult start follow the groove to vegetation and continue to the top.

Right of Wink there is a grassy wall and a holly-filled corner. Right of this corner a big groove runs up to a large overhang. This has not been climbed directly but Santana starts here.

18. Santana 18m VS (4b)
R Green, D McKay. 11/1974.
Climb the groove for 2m then move right. Continue directly up the wall a few metres right of the groove.

18a Screeboar the Omniscient E2 5b
Thomas Prebble, Owen Largey 02/Mar/2013
This line takes the groove and overhang above the start of Santana. Start as for Santana , continuing up to a ledge at the start of a blank groove. climb the groove (poorly protected) to the base of the overhang. Arrange gear (small, medium wires) and pass the overhang on the right (crux) and continue to the top.

19. Let the Children Play 18m HVS (5b)
T McQueen, P McClenaghan. 27/8/1989.
Start left of the undercut arête. Pull onto slab (crux) and traverse left to a left curving flake crack. Use this and the next crack left to reach ledges. Take flat holds on the right then step left to finish at a blind corner.

19a Peas n' Carrots * 18m E2 (5c)
K. Kilroy, E.Clarke 12/05/12.
Start as for Let the Children Play and climb straight up the left facing corner/groove to the large roof. Move right around the large roof and up a tight V-groove to finish (crux). Nut key used for protection. Take care with the large block directly below the V-Groove.

20. Tón le Gaoith 18m VS (4c)
R Green, D McKay. 10/1974.
Start at the groove immediately right of an arête undercut at 5m. Gain the groove, make a step up then left onto ledges (hidden jug). Up ledges and groove to the top.

21. Easy Go 16m S (3c)
R Green, J McGuinness. 10/1974.
Start just right of Ton le Gaoith. Climb the slight depression in the wall on small holds for 9m, move right to the arête and continue to the top.

There is a detached pinnacle about 5m in front of routes 20 and 21. There are foure short routes on the front of this pinnacle.

21a Quare Craic 9m VS 5a
G. Carleton, J. Holterman 15/Aug/2015
Climb the steep crack on the southern side of the pinnacle, a few meters to the left of ‘Left Crack’.

22. Left Crack 10m VD
V McCartney. 1974.
The left-hand, longest crack.

23. Central Crack 7m VD
V McCartney. 1974.
The central crack of the pinnacle.

24. Right Crack 7m S
V McCartney. 1974.
Offwidth/chimney.

Moving right from these pinnacles tracks lead to a very small narrow gully containing an almost horizontal swing gate. This is No. 3 Gully which comes out in whin bushes 50m south of the wall running down to the cliff edge from Lough Fadden. It is another possible descent for routes from Aghaidh na Muice to Right Crack above.

No. 4 Gully is about 70m beyond the wall running down from Lough Fadden. South of this is an obvious slabby wall which marks the right-hand side of a very steep buttress. At its lowest point this buttress is undercut. Run The World and Jack in the Green start left of this undercut. There are some crack lines towards the left end of the steep buttress and left of the shortest and most obvious of these is an arête. (Seeds of the Weeds). No. 4 Gully is the best descent for the next 8 routes.

25. Seeds of the Weeds 16m E2 (5b)
T McQueen, A Lyttle. 24/11/1984.
Climb the arête with an overhang at half height and a mass of ivy and holly on the left, about 30m left (south) of No. 4 Gully. Climb the arête moving between two small trees (delicate). Gain a stance on a block above (crux), from where it is possible to place protection in the corner crack to the right. Move up and left to finish up the arête at a very short crack. Dries quickly.

26. Clean Break 12m VS (4c)
T McQueen, A Lyttle. 18/11/1984.
Climbs the short corner crack and groove line immediately right of the arête. Layback the corner and continue to the top.

27. Plan 9 from Outer Space * 14m HVS (5b)
T McQueen, A Lyttle. 11/1983.
The steep jamming crack about 3m right of Clean Break. Start in a small left-facing corner. A sloping shelf on the right provides a rest at half height, the section above this being the crux. A strenuous route often, wet below the crux.

28. Thunderchild * 16m E3 (6b)
E Cooper (One aid point). 12/4/1986.
E Cooper (First Free Ascent).
Start at the groove crack line 5m right of Plan 9 from Outer Space. Surmount the roof to gain a groove. Continue up the sustained groove to reach good holds at the base of the crack. Attack the crack which is technical and strenuous to the top.

29. Run the World 20m E4 (5c)
E Cooper, M Manson, P Nolan. 26/5/1986.
Start at a groove just left of the undercut base of the buttress. 10m right of Thunderchild. Climb the groove to a small roof (No. 1 and 2 RP just below roof give the only protection). Climb the roof moving slightly right and up the wall above to a large flake. Move back left using a spiky foothold to a groove. Technical moves up this lead to a good ledge from which a slab is climbed leftwards to the top. A serious lead.

30. Jack in the Green * 23m E1 (5a)
T McQueen, J McDonald. 19/5/1985.
Start as for Run the World. Climb up for a few moves to reach a ramp which winds round to the slabby wall on the right. Follow this to reach ledges below a shallow groove. Up this to the top. Poorly protected.

31. A Carrot is as Close as a Rabbit gets to a Diamond 16m VS (4c)
T McQueen. 2/1987.
Start about 5m up the slope from the undercut, behind a large tree. Move left along ledges then up a groove a few metres right of and parallel to the top groove of Jack in the Green.

32. Abba Zabba 15m VS (4b)
T McQueen, A McQueen. 6/1988.
Climbs the wall right of the two grooves. Start just left of the gully. Move up on flat holds, stepping up leftwards onto the slab. Bridge up and pull out right to ledges. Finish more easily up cracks near the right edge of the face.

The broad, long buttress right of No. 4 Gully is undercut at its lowest point. Moving right the cliff base then rises towards a steep but easy descent (about 50m north of No. 4 Gully). The following 8 routes are on this buttress and can be reached either from No. 4 Gully or more easily from the steep descent.

33. Thinking Cap 18m VS (5b)
T McQueen, P McClenaghan, S Reid, A Whitcroft. 10/1983.
Start to the right of No. 4 Gully immediately right of an ivy-covered wall at an undercut groove. Surmount the overhang (crux) and continue up the groove. Where the groove steepens move right, behind a tree and finish up a vague arête. The rusty stake belay is hard to find.

Direct Finish * HVS (5a)
S Reid, A Whitcroft. 10/1983.
Continues directly up the steepening groove to better holds. Makes a better route.

34. Phoenix * 20m VS (4c)
S Billane, V McCartney. 5/3/1977.
Start at the left end of the undercut depression 10m right of Thinking Cap. Climb the wall to a dubious block, move right and up to a steep wall. Layback up the crack, easier climbing to the top.

35. Living Doll * 23m E2 (5c)
E Cooper, S McCrory. 12/4/1986.
Start half way between Phoenix and Morrigan at an obvious undercut flaky fault. Climb the fault (hard to start) to a bulge and traverse right across a short slab to join Morrigan. Follow Morrigan through the bulge and up a groove to a steep wall with a crack. Climb this to the top.

36. Morrigan * 20m E2 (5b)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 28/2/1976.
Start at the right end of the undercut depression, the route takes the depressions and small overhangs on the wall just left of the deep corner crack. Follow the easy ramp to the overhang, climb this directly using a sidepull. A higher sidepull is used to reach a V-groove, difficult to gain, with a resting place above. Climb up and right to the arête, continue with difficulty to the top or move right to easy ground.

37. Snatch of the Day * 20m VS (5a)
S Billane. 33/6/1975.
The overhanging cleft immediately right of Morrigan.

38. Focus * 15m VS (4c)
C Torrans. 2/1975.
A super little route about 12m up and right of Snatch of the Day. Start at a depression in the short slab left of the arête and steep descent. Climb up left on good holds to an overhang. Surmount the overhang on good holds, move up to the spike in the corner then out left to the arête, up the crack to the top. Alternative Start * VS (5b)
C Sheridan. 1985.
Start 4m left of the original start at a steep wall. Climb the crack and wall, continue up to join Focus at the overhang.

38aThe Wall of Jer'n Co ** 15m E5 (6a)
K Kilroy (Headpoint). 4/06/2011.
A bouldery route with questionable gear up the steep wall between Focus and Jeffrey. Climb the slab as for Jeffrey, then go straight up and left to the right trending groove. Gain the niche, blind and poorly protected, until below the bulge (protection in the horizontal crack). Gain the jug in the middle of the bulge and climb directly to the top.

39. Jeffrey * 15m HVS (5a)
T McQueen. 2/12/1984.
Start as for Focus. Climb the slab and hand traverse right to flakes on the arête. The route is escapable at this point. Tackle a bulge above using sidepulls (crux) and continue up the arête to the top.

The steep descent right of Jeffrey is also the best approach for the next set of routes. Immediately right of the descent there is a small buttress with five routes.

40. Fenenstron 15m HS
M Treacy. 8/1991.
This starts up the grassy section 3m right of the gully, slightly right of the overhanging rock above. Climb up to the large ledges and move right to a crack which you follow to a ledge. Move left here and surmount the overhang to finish up the groove above.

41. Astazou
M Treacy. 8/1991.
This starts 2m right of Fenestron, moves up over the protruding block and then into a groove on the right. Follow the groove to a vegetated ledge where you move left and finish up the crack. Variations
S McLoughlin, M Treacy, J Treacy. 8/1991.
From the vegetated ledge climb directly up (V. Diff) or move right and exit through the gap in the pinnacle (Diff).
The vegetated ledge can also be gained at the extreme right-hand end, alongside the pinnacle. From here traverse right and finish up A Scream of Two Bats.

42. A Scream of Two Bats 15m VS (4c)
S Billane. 2/2/1975.
Start left and up from the depression at the front of the buttress. Climb up and right towards a groove. Enter the groove (crux) and continue to the top.

43. Scornflake * 20m HVS (5a)
T McQueen, A Lyttle. 9/1983.
Start towards the left of the depression at the front of the buttress on a small spike. Use a thin flake crack to reach a good handhold and mantelshelf onto this (crux). Step right and move up onto a rightwards-rising line of flakes. Move along these and make a delicate step right to better holds. Move up to a ledge and climb the blocky corner above.

44. Liberty Cap * 20m E1 6a)
S Reid, A Whitcroft. 10/1983.
A direct start and variation finish to Scornflake. Start about 2m right of Scornflake. Climb on small holds (crux) to gain Scornflake directly below the rising line of flakes. Then from the ledge below the blocky corner step down and left (difficult) and finish up the arête.

45. J L Seagull * 12m HS (4b)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 11/74.
Start up and right from Scornflake at deep cracks just right of a tree. Climb the cracks to the base of a corner, up right into the corner to finish.

46. Tentative Decisions 12m E3 (6a)
M Manson, M Scott. 30/3/1985.
A serious route. Start just right of J L Seagull at the base of a wall with a curving crack at about 6m. Climb the wall making a couple of hard moves to reach the crack. Easy to the top.

The most marked feature of the next buttress is a deep hole at its base with a tree growing out of it. Three crack lines on this buttress have been climbed.

47. Foxbat 15m VS (4c)
S Billane, K Lindsay. 18/9/1976.
Start just left of the deep hole. Climb the crack (steep to start) and groove above.

48. Fissure Fuar * 15m VS (4b)
S Billane. 15/2/1975.
Climb the crack immediately right of the hole passing the overhang on the right.

49. Christine 15m HS (4a)
S Billane. 1976.
The crack/groove immediately right of Fissure Fuar. Poor protection.

To the right of this 'tree in the hole' buttress there is a wall with an obvious overhang at 5m. There are two routes on this wall.

50. Paradigm 14m VS (5a)
S Billane, K Lindsay. 12/9/1976.
Start under the left end of the overhang. Surmount the awkward overhang and follow the crack to the top.

51. Rubberwrist 15m HS (4b)
S Billane, V McCartney. 9/2/1975.
Start in the right-hand corner below the overhang. Climb the crack/corner to the overhang, pass this and follow the crack to the top.

Beyond this overhung wall there is a small buttress with some large jumbled blocks at its base. The next routes are on the section right of the toe of this buttress and on the slabby grooves bounding its right-hand side. These routes and those farther north (up to route 65) are probably best approached by abseil, the alternative being the steep descent (between routes 39 and 42), followed by an unpleasant fight round the base of the crag. There is an obvious boulder which makes a good abseil point for a descent down Morning.

51a Juniper Dodge 19m E1 5a
G. Carleton and S. McErlean 18/Apr/2014
Start 3m left of Spinola. Climb the crack until reaching the pod, step into the pod and make a long reach to good holds above (crux); climb around the Juniper bush on your left and continue more easily to the top.

52. Spinola * 18m S (4a)
S Billane, V McCartney. 1976.
Start about 18m right of Rubberwrist, slightly right of the toe of the buttress, below and to the left of the first of three overhangs. Climb up into the corner and left onto a small ledge. Climb the wall with the crack in it into a recess, continue to the top.

53. Pitchfork 16m S (4a)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 1976.
Start below the second (largest) overhang a few metres right of Spinola. Climb directly to the right end of the overhang at 6m. Pass it easily on the right, continue up the left fork of the crack to the top.

Alternative Finish * VS (4c)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 1976.
Take a right-hand fork following the thin crack past the last overhang to the top.

54. Bullrush * 14m VS (4c)
C Torrans. 1976.
The groove to the right of Pitchfork. Make an awkward move into the groove then pleasant climbing to the top.

55. The Sting * 14m HVS (5a/b)
S Billane5, V McCartney. 6/1976.
Start 1m right of Bullrush. Climb the crack, hard to start and finish.

56. Morning 12m S (4a)
S Billane, V McCartney. 20/9/1976.
The crack/groove right of The Sting.

About 15m right of The Sting and left of a detached pillar with a block on top there is a small clean slab with two routes.

57. Greased Frightening 12m VD
T McQueen, A Lyttle. 2/1984.
Follow the thin crack line on the left side of the slab passing a flake at half height.

58. Emptying the Elsan 12m S (3c)
T McQueen, A Lyttle. 2/1984.
Follow the thin crack 2m right of Greased Frightening on the right-hand side of the slab.

Right of this there is a broken area of crag. After about 30m a large undercut nose is visible perched on the top third of the crag. The next three routes are in the area below and right of this.

59. Provisional Travesty 20m S (4a)
A Saunders, D Howard. 3/4/1977.
A rather illogical route starting below the nose at a crack running up to the right side of the nose. Climb blocks and cracks to below the base of the nose. Pull out left below the nose and up to the overhanging V-chimney (loose).

60. Rain Race 16m E2 (6a)
E Cooper, T Cooper. 5/1986.
Start at the arête on the left side of the corner on the bottom right of the buttress. Climb the first block (technically the hardest part of the route) and continue more easily to the base of a steep wall. Climb this with difficulty and continue directly to the top.

61. Prunesquallor 20m HS (4b)
A Saunders, D Howard. 3/4/1977.
Start in the corner immediately right of Rain Race at the bottom right-hand side of the buttress, left of a holly tree. Up the corner (some laybacking) under the roof. Swing out left across Rain Race and continue leftwards to the base of the overhanging nose. Follow the crack to the top (this top crack would be the direct finish to Provisional Travesty).

About 20m right of these routes there is an obvious arête (Hejira). This arête forms the skyline when looking across from the top of Murlough Bay and marks a high point on the sill where the scarp line starts to swing slightly westwards. Three routes are found around this arête.

62. Flay 20m VS (4c)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 22/2/1975.
This route takes the slanting grooves a few metres left of the arête. It has become very vegetated.

63. Hejira * 20m E3 (5c)
I Rea, J McDonald. 3/12/1984.
Start at the detached flake below the arête. Climb the very short finger crack. Climb the arête directly and finish up the wall left of Fuchsia. Low in the grade but with poor protection, No. 1 friend essential.

64. Fuchsia * 18m VS (4b)
C Sheridan, C Torrans. 15/2/1975.
Start in the obvious corner right of the arête. Climb the corner crack to the overhang, move left at the overhang on good holds and continue up the crack to the top.

About 40m right of Fuchsia there is a small clearing in which the next three routes can be located.

64a Sycamore 14m VS 4c
G. Carleton, T. Hartley 29/Jun/2014
Start 7m to the left of Hometown Jam on the wall opposite a sycamore tree. Climb the short bulging slab to the wall above, follow the line of the shallow crack(crux)and finish up the grove above.

64b Hazelnut Arete 17m HVS 5b
G. Carleton, T. Hartley 27/Sep/2014
Start 4m right of Sycamore and 3m left of Hometown Jam. Climb the arete to the small overhangs, step left and climb the bulge using side pulls and layback of the arete (crux), then continue up the middle of the slab to the top.

65. Hometown Jam * 18m HVS (5b)
I Rea, M Rea. 10/3/1985.
Start below the cracked wall with a rightward-trending scoop at half height. Climb the wall and continue straight up a shallow groove to gain a restricted niche on the left, cut out right and finish up the wall above via a right-slanting crack. Stake belay well back.

66. Lir's Scoop * 18m VS (4c)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 3/1975.
Start as for Hometown Jam. Climb the wall until level with the bottom of the scoop. Make an awkward move right into the scoop and climb the groove to the top.

67. Terminal Eyes * 18m E3 (5c)
E Cooper, T Cooper. 5/1986.
A superb short wall climb. Start right of Lir's Scoop under a small foot ledge. Gain a foot ledge directly and step right into a short corner. Climb this until it is possible to move back left and up into a niche which is followed to some undercut flakes (good runners). Climb the wall above (crux) moving slightly right to gain a sloping ledge on the right side of a short arête which leads more easily to the top.

67a Corner Variant 17m HVS 5a
G. Carleton, G. O’Sullivan, Mark 03/Jul/2015
Start in the clean corner a few meters to the right of ‘Terminal Eyes’. Climb the corner to the overhang, step right around the arête, bridge off the opposite side of the gully to gain good holds above (crux), continue more easily to the top. Poorly protected at the crux.


About 50m further north there is a broad grassy break. No. 5 Gully, with a prow set in front of it. Beyond this descent the scarp line sweeps back to form a large bay before the main crag.

68. Glipe 16m VS (4c)
C Torrans, S Billane. 1975.
Very dangerous and loose. Start on the front of the prow at No. 5 Gully. Climb the rock to the right of the overhang, move up left to an awkward step around. Traverse left to a second crack, climb the crack for a few metres until it is possible to move back into the first crack, continue to the top.

The Middle Crag

Moving north, past No. 5 Gully on the cliff-top path there is another stile and about 200m north of this, just pass a rise, a gully gives access to a secluded woody terrace below a 20m to 25m steep wall. The cliff top here is open and grassy and several stakes have been put in for belays. Five routes have been put up on the wall. There is a long overhang at about half height on the left side of the wall and the first two routes start in a little corner at the right side of this.

69. Jug Hands * 25m E1 (5b)
D O'Sullivan, C Torrans. 9/1986.
Takes a line left of Solid Bond. Climb Solid Bond to the overhang. Move left to climb the overhang using the triangular flake. Continue straight up for a few metres and traverse left, then up the shallow corner and left again. Finish up the wall on flat holds just right of grass. Stake belay. Exciting moves over the roof.

70. Solid Bond * 25m E1 (5b)
T McQueen, P Mallon, N Roberts. 1/12/1984.
Start below the overhang at a jam crack in a small corner beside a battered tree. Jam the crack then move out left and back right on shattered rock to gain the corner under the menacing overhang. Beware of loose flakes in the crack behind the overhang. Climb the overhang and move up to the flake crack above leading directly to a hanging corner which is climbed on flat holds to the top. Stake belay.

71. A Fringe of Leaves ** 25m E3 (6a)
C. Torrans, D O'Sullivan. 14/9/1986.
An excellent little route giving good technical climbing. It takes the groove with a flake at its base and a tree visible half way up the crag on the left. Climb the groove with holds high on the right wall. Gain a ledge and move left on a hand crack. Up this to a tree, climb up and left past some flakes to a black crack. Arrange protection in this, move down and traverse right into the middle of the wall. Up this break with good protection continuing up the wall to the top.

72. Easy Skanking ** 23m E1 (5c)
J McDonald, P Mallon. 27/6/1986.
The obvious line between Solid Bond and Sugar Magnolia. Step into the shallow pod. Make a high reach for a small hold with hard moves leading to a flake/spike. Continue up the groove above to a ledge on the left. Step right and layback around the bulge to good holds on the right. Climb easier ground leftwards to the top. Spike belays far back.

73. Sugar Magnolia ** 22m E1 (5b)
I Rea, P Holmes. 9/3/1985.
Start at the second fault to the right of Solid Bond. Climb the well-brushed fault to the obvious horizontal crack, go left along this and finish up the easy groove.

Below the Main Crag

Directly above the old mine at the northeast end of Murlough Bay at the end of the vehicle track is a band of reddish coloured cliffs. At the left edge of this is a small bay of grey rock much better in quality.

74. Trivial Pursuit 12m E1 (5c)
I Rea, M Rea. 16/4/1989.
Climb the thin finger crack up the centre of the bay, using good holds on the left.

75. Saginaw Song 10m S (4c)
M Rea, I Rea. 16/4/1989.
Climb the next fault left of Trivial Pursuit moving right onto the face at the grass ledge at mid-height.

The previous two routes have good stake belays 10m up the slope near a vague track.

Below Kneewrecker is a huge block about 60m high. To its right is a smaller companion inclined at a much easier angle. On it are the following three climbs.

76. Wiseblood 15m E1 (5b/c)
I Rea, M Rea. 18/8/1989.
Start at the toe of the frontal face of the block. Stand on the boulder and surmount the overhang with a conspicuous short crack on its right. Up to bulge, then move out left onto a slab. Up and right to gain the groove which is followed to the top.

77. Orangefield 15m VS (4b/c)
I Rea, M Rea. 18/8/1989.
Start a few metres up to the right-hand side of the block. Move left above overhangs into a shallow groove (small brass wires). Traverse left under the overhang, surmount this on the left and continue up easy groove to the top.

78. The Lone Groover 12m HVS (4c)
I Rea, M Rea. 18/8/1989.
Start as for Orangefield but continue up unprotected right-trending groove to top.

The Murlough area is popular for bouldering and offers opportunities for highball and daring lines some of which are appropriate for a trad grade. One such route is The Big Blue, a beautiful route that takes a line straight up the middle of the seaward face of the giant split boulder down in the Murlough Bay area.

78a The Big Blue *** 13m E7 (6b)
D O'Neill. Spring 2011.
Gain the slab with difficulty at the step in the overlap and pad up with some trepidation to a thought provoking rockover. A couple of skyhooks provide the sole protection.

78b Get a Life, Get a Pallet *** 12m E7 (6c)
R Bell (solo). Spring 2011.
Up the middle of the big black overhanging boulder.

The Main Crag

The grey fortress of the Main Crag stands proud to a height of 100m for most of its four kilometre length. Walls and columns, prows and bays followed by more walls and more columns soon confuse the route finder, and the two descent gullies, being three kilometres apart, are of limited use as reference points. To simplify descriptions the headland has been split into ten sections, each with a brief introduction.

Grey Man's Path is the impressive gully bridged by a huge fallen column which gives access to the first four areas - Binnagapple, Grey Man's Path, the White Lightning Amphitheatre and the Bird Hide Block area. The shortest approach to Grey Man's Path is from the National Trust car park at Coolanlough; follow the National Trust marked path to the gully. Alternatively follow the cliff top path (also marked) from the first car park above Murlough Bay. It is also possible to walk into Binnagapple from the miners' track which runs in from the second car park, below the Small Crag.

Crack climbing predominates all along the crag but in recent years the walls have yielded some fine face routes. As long as these steep walls, arêtes and little blind grooves are being explored the new routes will continue to appear.

The edge of the cliff is higher than the moorland behind and drainage is excellent, making Fair Head a good winter option. The prevailing westerly winds can be unpleasant at times but as the headland is actually the north-eastern corner of Ireland, it is usually not difficult to find a more sheltered area. As it faces mainly north it's worth remembering which parts of the crag get the sun - Binnagapple, Ballycastle Descent Gully East, The Prow and Marconi's Cove being the best.

Binnagapple Area

This is the leftmost part of the Main Crag. It is bounded on the left by an extensive vegetated area (the start of the sound rock is marked by a jumble of huge boulders) and runs as far as the area around Grey Man's Path. A broken stone wall runs to the face as one nears the end of this part of the cliff coming from the gully. Some routes are described in relation to this wall.

The rock here is clean and lichen free, as it gets the early morning sun, and there is a good selection of three star routes.

79. December ** 55m HVS (4c, 5a)
P McHugh, J McKenzie. 12/1968.
A mixed doubles route with a delicate first pitch and a strenuous juggy second. At the southerly end of the crag where the good rock deteriorates into steep vegetated shale there has been a rockfall.December takes the first corner to the right of this. Scramble into the cave to the base of the groove.
1) 25m (4c). From the base of the corner climb the crack (difficult at 6m) and emerge into daylight. Continue pleasantly up the corner to a belay niche (friend 4 useful at belay).
2) 30m (5a). Climb to a ledge, followed by a chimney and up to the sizable overhang which is surmounted using good holds.

80. Duais 42m E1 (5b)
P McDermott, B Rodgers. 21/12/1969.
A strenuous but well protected route, taking the wide crack/chimney in the right-angled corner right of December. Climb the corner crack to a sloping platform at 12m (Possible belay). Continue up the corner past three overhangs, the last being the hardest.

81. Poor Relation ** 45m E1 (4b, 5b)
J Rotherham, R Rowe (One aid point). 10/1976.
C Torrans, C Sheridan (First Free Ascent). 1979.
A good pitch giving varied climbing. Start as for Duais.
1) 12m (4b). Climb the dirty corner to the small grass ledge below the overhang.
2) 33m (5b). Climb to the overhang and traverse right for 3m to a shallow groove and crack. Climb the crack (crux) and pull up onto the slab. Traverse left to the corner crack which is difficult to start.

82. Feats Don't Fail Me Now 30m E2 (5b)
I Rea, M Rea, K Lindsay. 27/11/1988.
This route takes a line up the big detached block below Poor Relation. Start at the right toe of the block. Easy moves left lead to the arête. Climb the arête to good wires at the obvious brown scar. Traverse 2m right to another ledge. Move directly up from this ledge (good wire) until holds lead back left to the arête (crux) just below the roof (good wire). Finish up the arête more easily. Small brass nuts essential. To descend go through a mini tunnel in boulders and scramble off down left.

83. Raglan Road ** 72m E3 (6a, 5c)
C Torrans, E Cooper. 10/1983.
Tremendous climbing on clean sound rock. This route takes a hidden left-facing corner 8m left of the broken stone wall and 2m right of a large block leaning against the wall.
1) 45m (6a). Climb blocks and cracks to a corner. Climb the corner until forced right onto a ledge. Continue up for 1m and move out left to a thin crack and finger lock. From this lunge for a flat hold.
2) 30m (5c). Move right into the wide crack of Curser and continue up the bulge (crux of Curser) which is climbed before stepping left to a narrow shelf and thin crack. Excellent climbing up this crack to finish.

Top Pitch Variation *** 30m E5 (6a)
E Cooper, P McArthur. 14/8/1994.
From the belay move up to an old peg (4 RP just above). Traverse left on small edges and move up. Traverse back right on edges (sky hook useful) to reach good hold. Continue up to rejoin the crack of Raglan Road. Bold wall climbing.

84. Binn na gCapall * 73m E2 (5c, 5b, 5c)
C Torrans, C Sheridan (Alternate Leads). 9/1983.
Good technical climbing followed by fine crack climbing. Start below the shallow corner 2m left of the broken wall.
1) 13m (5c). Climb the corner (sustained) to the belay ledge.
2) 30m (5b). Move up and right to the wide crack. Follow this to a horizontal crack and then back left to the corner. Continue up to a ledge, move right into a steep crack and follow this to a stance on the left.
3) 30m (5c). As for the second pitch of Raglan Road.

The next section takes in a fine wall bounded on the left by Curser the huge leftward-slanting chimney with a broken wall at its base - and on the right by a large vegetated corner - Green Corner. Clean rock and the early morning sun make this a popular area.

85. Curser 75m E2 (4b, 4c, 5c, 4c)
W Jenkins, S J Crymble. 8/10/1967.
This route takes the large overhanging crack which slants up leftwards across the left-hand side of the main wall. An unforgettable crux. Start just right of the dilapidated wall.
1) 19m (4b). Chimney up to the overhanging block which is turned on the left with some difficulty and proceed up to belay on a chockstone in the chimney.
2) 19m (4c). Climb the large crack on the right. Move left over a block and gain the overhanging corner. Little respite is offered here until the deep crack widens sufficiently to allow a comfortable belay in a convenient jammed block.
3) 30m (5c). Force on up the chimney to a narrowing capped by blocks. Continue up the crack stepping out left on a small hold at the bulge. Continue up to a snug pulpit and belay.
4) 7m (4c). (i) Make a final effort up the remaining chimney and emerge suddenly on flat ground. OR (ii) climb the broken rock to the left of the overhanging block.

Variation Start (4a)
C Torrans. 1968.
The original first pitch is loose. Avoid this by climbing the crack on the left direct to the belay in the chimney.

86. Doldrum ** 70m E2 (4c, 5c, 5a)
P McHugh, J Heffernan. 7/1968.
G Somerville, G Carleton. 2/07/2011. (Climbed following rockfall)
An excellent test for the offwidth aficionado. The original route suffered a major rock fall in May 2009, when a huge slice slipped out of the 2nd pitch. It takes the crack line between Curser and the deep gash running up the middle of the wall (Clarion). Start immediately left of the huge boulder which lies against the crag. At least two No. 6 Friends or equivalent are essential to protect the second pitch.
1) 20m (4c). Climb the cracks diagonally left to a secure perch below the chimney.
2) 37m (5c). Climb up facing left, and then chimney up facing right to the large jammed flake. Surmount this and chimney up to the overhanging offwidth until forced out right. Gain a small foothold on the front face and using small edges and the fat crack move up with difficulty to a jammed flake. Pass this to a small stance. From here step right and layback for 6m to a good belay.
3) 13m (5a). Climb the deep cracks directly up from the belay, or move left to behind the huge column and climb the obvious crack to the top.

87. Clarion 57m VS (4c, 4a)
J Heffernan, P McHugh. 10/1967.
This route is loose and mucky and best left to the pigeons on the second pitch. It follows the big chimney fault in the centre of the wall to the right of Doldrum.
1) 35m (4c). Ascend the crack behind the pillar. Treating the rock with care move with difficulty over a large loose chockstone and belay further up the chimney on a hefty jammed block.
2) 22m (4a). Continue up and wriggle through a small hole to a vegetated gully which leads gloomily to the top.

88. Hurricane *** 61m E2 (5b, 5b)
P McHugh, H O'Brien (Two aid points). 6/1969.
C Torrans, C Sheridan (First Free Ascent). 1974.
G Somerville, R Hunt (Direct finish). 17/07/2006.
A classic route giving two tremendous pitches of sustained and exposed climbing. It takes a steep crack right of Clarion.
1) 37m (5b). Climb the groove to the overhang at 12m. Move through the overhang (crux) on good fist jams and continue up the steep crack to a good belay on the left.
2) 24m (5b). Climb up for 6m to just below the overhang and then either:
i) Using the left trending crack, hand traverse left on small footholds, then continue up the left crack to the top, or
ii) Climb up and straight through the overhang at 5c (crux). Move slightly left to good jugs and follow the steep crack to the top.

89. Green Corner 55m HS
P McDermott, P O'Leary. 10/1967.
A loose and vegetated route 15m right of Hurricane, this is a large corner/gully which forms the right-hand boundary of the huge wall.
1) 17m. Scramble up to the base of the gully.
2) 38m. Climb gingerly up the corner above, beware of loose rocks.

90. Visual Contact ** 50m E3 (6b)
M Manson, J Codling. 6/1985.
An excellent route with a short but perplexing crux and good protection. It takes the impressive crack up the wall left of the corner with the huge hanging block (Darth Vadar Lives). Climb the crack and make a hard move to reach a black groove. Pull around an overlap and launch into the crux, more easily to the top, passing the overhang on the right. NB A belay should be taken a few metres above the crux if using 45m ropes.

91. Dart Vadar Lives 45m HVS
M Mills, M Henry. 6/1977.
A dangerously loose route taking the large corner to the right of Green Corner and recognisable by the cave and huge pear-shaped block at mid-height. Start below this corner.
1) 13m. Climb the crack to the base of the cave.
2) 32m. Traverse out right under the roof and gain the chimney above. Climb this awkwardly and then the vegetated groove above to gain a large ledge. The final overhang is climbed on the right.

92. Rusty Halo *** 45m E4 (6a)
C Torrans, C Sheridan (One aid point). 4/1986.
E Cooper (First Free Ascent).
This gives superb crack and face climbing up the edge of the wall right of Darth Vadar Lives. Strenuous and technical at the top of the grade. A couple of short pillars just right of a small overhang mark the start. Start 2m right of these. Climb the short cracked wall until it is possible to step left to good jugs. Follow the crack and the steep wall to a good rest a few meters below the overhang. Take the overhang on good jams (crux) and follow the strenuous crack to the top.

93. Serem 55m HVS
P McDermott, C Wray. 18/5/1969.
This route takes the chimney groove line up the middle of the wall and is extremely loose. It has not had a second ascent to date.
1) 45m. Climb directly up cracks slightly left of the line of the chimney until the base of the chimney is reached. It is possible to belay here but the leader may dislodge stones. Alternatively climb the chimney to the base of the overhanging crack and climb this on good holds for 5m to where a belay ledge materialises.
2) 10m. Bear up left on obvious holds to the top.

93a Cake Walk 54m E3/4(5a,5c)
Calvin Torrans, Clare Sheridan (alt leads). 6/9/15
This route takes the crack in the left facing corner left of Toby Jug and then traverses left to finish up the fine wall left of Serem.
1. Climb the crack (wide in places but with lots of good edges) and finish up on the flake/pinnacle. Step right to belay below the overhang of Toby Jug.
2. Step back left and down. From a small flat handhold on the left wall launch up and left to reach a good small jug. Continue swiftly left to the wide crack (gear) of Serem. Climb up left for a few metres before moving left to the big ledge. Finish up the finger crack above.

94. Toby Jug ** 49m E1 (5a, 5b)
C Torrans, R Cowan (Four aid points, climbed on sight). 1970.
C Torrans, C Sheridan (Cleaned and climbed free). 1976.
This route has an excellent second pitch giving steep exposed jamming. Start a few metres left of the corner (The Brasser).
1) 27m (5a). Climb the crack weaving left then right to join the main crack. Continue with difficulty to the ledge. Belay level with the traverse on Sandpiper.
2) 22m (5b). Climb the crack to the small overhang and move left to the foot of the leaning corner which is climbed on excellent jams.

The next two routes share the same start at the foot of the huge corner right of Toby Jug.

95. The Brasser *** 46m E2 (5c, 5b)
C Torrans, C Sheridan (One aid point). 8/10/1978.
K Murphy (First Free Ascent). 11/6/1983.
Interesting climbing on both pitches, hard for the grade.
1) 36m (5c). Climb the corner by bridging and jamming passing a good spike runner on the left. Continue with increasing difficulty to reach the foot of the groove. Layback the crack and pull into the groove on poor jams. Continue up the crack, on poor jams at first, to the belay ledge.
2) 10m (5b). Layback the corner to reach the ledge on the left. Awkward to the top.

96. Sandpiper *** 44m E2 (5c, 5a)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. (One aid point). 12/3/1976.
R Lawson. (First Free Ascent). 1980.
A good route on excellent rock. Start as for The Brasser at the foot of the corner.
1) 36m (5c). Climb the corner to the bottom of the difficult groove of The Brasser and make a hard step right to finger cracks on the right wall. Follow these cracks which get wider and belay on the ledge above the narrow chimney of Striapach.
2) 8m (5a). Climb the crack to the top - difficult.

97. Striapach * 46m HVS (4c, 5a, 5a)
E Goulding, T Ingram. 9/1968.
This is a chimney formed by a large flake which gives a superb 36m pitch of chimneying (poorly protected).
1) 12m (4c). Climb the twin cracks and step left around the corner and negotiate the steep step. Enter the chimney (very loose rock) and belay.
2) 26m (5a). Climb the chimney (strenuous). A resting place is available on the left arête shortly before the most difficult section. Exit left from the chimney and belay on the chockstone.
3) 8m (5a). Climb the crack to the top - difficult.

The main feature of the next area of rock is a steep wall which is split by an impressive crack topped by a prominent chockstone. This is Blade Runner. Orange Blossom Special takes the steep corner on the right.

98. Jolly Roger *** 57m E3 (6a, 5c)
M Manson, J Codling (One rest point). 11/9/1981.
E Cooper, M McNaught (First Free Ascent). 19/12/1981.
A superb route and reasonable for the grade, taking the left-hand crack on this wall.
1) 27m (6a). Climb up to a small overhang and pass this on the right using good holds. Step left and up to gain the thin crack which is climbed with increasing difficulty go a good jug. Continue more easily to a small ledge.
2) 30m (5c). Climb the crack passing a few bulges on the way (Sustained).

The main feature of the next area of rock is a steep wall which is split by an impressive crack topped by a prominent chockstone. This is Blade Runner.Orange Blossom Special takes the steep corner on the right.

99. Blade Runner ** 47m E3 (5c, 5c)
E Cooper, C Torrans. 11/1983.
A powerful line taking the crack with the chockstone at the top.
1) 23m (5c). Climb the wall to the right of the groove until it is possible to move into the groove and continue up this to the overhang (some doubtful rock 2m below the overhang). Move left and climb the overhang and then up the twin grooves to a small stance.
2) 24m (5c). Climb up to an ominous rocking block (sound) and climb the crack to where it splits just below the top and follow the left branch (or continue straight up at 6a).

100. Track of the Cat *** 45m E4 (6a)
J Codling, G Gibson. 28/6/1985.
A long taxing pitch with many hard moves. Start about 5m right of the groove of Blade Runner. Climb the thin crack line direct to the short leaning corner and final bulge just right of Blade Runner.

100a The Dark Side *** 55m E8 (6c)
A Marshall, C Hiller. 1/10/09.
This route takes the obvious orange wall right of Track of the Cat. Start at the bottom of a flake and crack line in the middle of the wall. Climb the flakes which leads to a short crack with a pedestal at the top of it. Move up and left from this to a good ledge. Scuttle left to the base of another flake system. Climb the flakes, awkward, to reach a good flat hold, arrange gear here then move up and right along a series of face holds with long reaches and the gear left behind. A quick mantle allows the entry into a groove system. Follow this groove to the top with a balancy move which leads right towards the large ledges. Climb the ledges and arrange gear in the crack at the top of them. Step down and right and climb the next series of face holds (crux) to a good flat hold in the middle of the wall, move up and right with a long move leaving you stretching to reach the arête. Follow the arête with an ever increasing run-out to just below the top. With a good rest and a breathtaking mantle, the top thankfully comes into reach.

101. Orange Blossom Special 65m E1 (4a, 5b)
P McHugh, S Billane. 1971.
A neglected climb offering good climbing up the huge corner left of the deep chimneys.
1) 22m (4a). Climb the wide crack and belay below the open corner.
2) 43m (5b). Climb the corner, awkward at first.

102. Sreang Scuab 45m E2 (4b, 5c)
R Lawson, G Derbyshire. 30/7/1980.
This route is situated between the corner of Orange Blossom Special and the high chimneys and takes the obvious steep groove with three small overhangs. Start at the jammed blocks below the groove.
1) 9m (4b). Climb to the right-hand side of the blocks. One awkward move leads to a ledge below the groove.
2) 36m (5c). Climb up easily to the first overhang and surmount this on excellent jams (crux). Continue up this until it is possible to bridge onto the cracked left wall. Move up by bridging and jamming to a shallow chimney, passing a hollow flake (sound). Exit from the chimney into an offwidth. Make one hard move and continue up blocks to the top.

Due to an enormous rock fall on the wall just left of Blood Line care should be taken with this and the two adjoining routes, Earnshaw's Route and Kneewrecker.

103. Blood Line 45m E3 (6a)
E Cooper, P Nolan. 28/5/1986.
Careful, scene of a recent rock fall. The route takes a wall left of the chimney of Earnshaw's Route. Start on a blocky ledge between Earnshaw's Route and Kneewrecker. Gain a good handhold directly above the ledge and then move up and right to a shallow groove just left of the arête. Climb this and move left into a higher groove which is followed to its end. Now traverse more easily left to a good crack and follow this to a ledge (possible belay). Battle with the offwidth which is thankfully punctuated by several edges and holds.

104. Earnshaw's Route 44m VS
G Earnshaw, C Moore. 1966.
This is the first recorded route at Fair Head and this is its only recommendation as it is extremely loose and dirty. Scramble up to the bottom of the chimney proper. Enter the chimney and climb to the tight exit. Impossible for those with the fuller figure.

105. Kneewrecker 75m HVS (5a, 4c)
K Price, P O'Leary, B Walsh. 10/1967.
R Cowan (Direct Start). 1968.
A good first pitch with a very loose and dangerous chimney on the second. Start below the steep clean crack.
1) 30m (5a). Climb the crack to large ledges.
2) 44m (4c). Climb the chimney direct to the top. (Beware of loose stones).

106. Leaning to Fly *** 55m E5 (6a, 5c)
E Cooper, P Dunlop. 29/7/1995. (Still awaits a second ascent).
Not a sports route! Start from the right hand end of the block strewn ledge which extends rightward from the bottom of the chimney of Kneewrecker.
1) 33m (6a). Easily gain the top of the pedestal on the right arête of the wall. Climb the wall above (good 1.5 friend in slot on the right) to a flake. Move up right past a peg runner into the groove, which is followed to a roof. Swing right, and then back left above the roof and up the groove where it fades. Continue up a groove, which leads to the belay on a good ledge.
2) 12m (5c). Follow the open flaky groove above with continued interest, trending left at the top.

The Grey Man's Path Area

This area gets its name from the big grassy gully bridged by a fallen column which gives access to this end of the cliff.

It tends to be a bit windy and sunless and the walls are slow to dry, with the result that it has never been very popular despite the easy access. It does have some excellent routes however, including Burn Up, and early classic, the Night Rider, which weaves a fine line through a band of formidable overhangs.'

107. Night Rider *** 81m E5 (5b, 6a, 4c)
K Murphy, E Cooper (One aid point). 30/6/1985.
E Cooper (First Free Ascent).
A tremendous second pitch, exposed and technical, slipping through the huge overhangs. Hard for the grade. The route takes a line through the huge overhangs just left of Grey Man's Path. Start 20m left of Grey Man's Path (as for Njold's Saga) below and to the left of the corner at mid-height. There are two grassy ledges about 10m up. Start below the right-hand one.
1) 21m (5b). Climb the vegetated crack to the grassy ledge at the base of the groove (the shattered crack on the right crossing the pillars is Njold's Saga). Climb the groove until it is possible to move left onto a block in the groove on the left. Climb this groove and move left into another groove at the small sloping ledge and follow this to a hanging belay beside the overhang (8 or 9 hex).
2) 40m (6a). Climb the groove above to the overhang. Climb this (crux) and move out right onto the wall (good rest). Climb the wall passing a short right-facing corner until it is possible to step out right onto a large foothold on the vague arête. Continue upwards and trend slightly left by gaining the obvious groove line by a mantelshelf move. Climb this groove (easy) to a bulge (No. 2 Friend). Surmount the bulge to gain a foot ledge. Belay above in the groove. 3) 20m (4c). Finish up the groove.

108. Njold's Saga 95m E1 (4c, 5b, 4a)
I Gray, C Torrans (One aid point, Alternate Leads). 2/1973.
J McKenzie (First Free Ascent).
The route takes the first obvious corner left of Grey Man's Path. Start 10m left of the corner.
1) 47m (4c). Gain a small grass ledge at 6m and follow the crack slanting right into the corner proper. Belay on top of a loose flake.
2) 24m (5b). Climb the corner passing jammed blocks with difficulty to reach a large platform.
3) 24m (4a). Climb the pleasant slab and corner on the right of the platform to the top.

109. Cú Uladh 83m HVS (4c, 5a, 4c)
C Torrans, S Billane. 5/1976.
This climb follows a crack and chimney line a few metres left of the bottom of Grey Man's Path and passes up behind a huge pinnacle to large ledges in the gully proper.
1) 39m Climb the vegetation to reach the chimney, up this to a jammed flake which forms two cracks and gives good jamming, then chimney behind the pinnacle to large ledges.
2) 21m Traverse the ledges to the obvious corner crack. Climb the crack - hard to start but good jugs to finish.
3) 23m Continue up right to the top or finish up the final pitch of Njold's Saga (preferable).

110. Soylent Green 68m E1 (5b, 4b, 4a)
I Rea, S McCrory. 9/7/1984.
At the very bottom of Grey Man's Path on the left there is a prominent recess below the cleft of the pinnacle. There is a hidden crack on the slabby seaward side of this recess.
1) 30m (5b). Climb the easy blocks on the left to gain the base of the crack. Climb this with an awkward start, and finish on the belay ledge on the right.
2) 18m (4b). Gain the top of the block behind the belay. Traverse left across the steep wall to the gully and belay.
3) 20m (4a). Climb the pleasant corner and slab to the top.

Top Pitch Variation 20m E3 (6b)
E Cooper, P McArthur. 14/8/1994.
The arête on the first pitch as been climbed in its entirety using a side runner in the crack where the original first pitch goes left, giving an overall grade of E3 (6b).

111. Bum's Rush * 60m E2 (5c, 4c)
I Rea, M Rea. 1/5/1994.
A fine climb on the arête right of Soylent Green.
1) 30m (5c). Start at the base of Soylent Green. Step out right onto the arête and climb it to a small roof, which is turned on the right to a good resting ledge. Go up the front face of the arête to another good ledge. Go out left to gain the crack of Soylent Green and continue up to the belay ledge.
2) 30m (4c). Go up right and follow the line of Magennis Route to the big grass ledge. Go left across this, up a short wall and follow a foot traverse line left into Njold's Saga. Finish up the last metre or so of this.

About two-thirds of the way down Grey Man's Path the path veers left. The next two routes are to be found roughly level with this, to the right.

112. Magennis Route 40 m E2 (5c)
J Magennis, P McGarrity. 1993.
The prominent steep flaky crack line on the wall left of the shallow corner of The Unforgettable Fire.

113. The Unforgettable Fire 45m E1 (5b)
J McDonald, P Mallon, J Cross. 26/8/1986.
To the right of the Magennis Route there is a shallow corner which leads to the ledge at 12m Climb the corner to the ledge. Move right for 2m to the second crack and climb this (crux) for about 6m to another ledge. Step left into a scoop and climb the short slab on the right to a large flake. Climb over this to a series of ledges on the right and up another short corner to a good ledge. Climb the corner on the left to the top.

114. The Sheltering Sky 40m E1 (5b)
I Rea, A Blair. 1/5/1994.
Start a metre left of Blood Meridian. Climb up to the ledge on the left. Up flaky right facing corner to ledge. Up crux of The Unforgettable Fire. Step left to large block, then back up right to even larger block. Up tight little groove behind block to another ledge, then directly up steep fault in the wall above.

115. Blood Meridian 40m E2 (5c)
I Rea, T McQueen. 16/9/1994.
About 12m down and left of the Antagonist/Idir na Ríthe alcove is a blocky stairway leading up left onto the steep face. About 4m lower down is a left slanting flake/crack, which leads to the top of the stairway. Climb this to the ledge, then up a short right facing corner (crux) to another ledge. Up a crack/layaway on the right to another ledge. Up the crack off the right hand side of the ledge to its top. Swing out left to finish.

116. Deadly Pursuit ** 42m E5 (6b)
E Cooper, A Moles. 1/6/1988.
Exciting wall climbing with only adequate protection. 7m down the gully from Antagonist there is a flake crack leading to a ledge at 5m. Climb the crack to a ledge and continue up the open groove above to a double ledge. Arrange good protection in the crack above the left end of the higher ledge before moving down to the lower ledge. Make a disconcerting move to reach a series of left-trending holds which are followed by technical moves into a groove. A final difficult move to an edge is followed by easier climbing to the top.

116a The Grey Man *** 75m E4 (5c, 5c, 4c)
R Bell, C Hiller, J Egner. 30/04/07.
Adventurous climbing in a spectacular position. The Grey Man is a huge three tired pinnacle that sits proud from the crag. From the block lying in the middle of The Grey Mans Path scramble up a small corner and belay on the first terrace.
1) 20m (5c). Climb slightly up and reach out to the arête of the pinnacle. Wonder up the pinnacle and belay at the pegs in an awesome position.
2) 45m (5c). A good nut can be placed low and left before stepping off the belay. Climb the left arête boldly until its possible to bridge left and place a 0 friend high in the crack. Continue up the arête to a ledge and then easily up the right arête of the slab to the huge blocks perched on top of the pinnacle.
3) 10m (4c). Adventure off the pinnacle onto the top of the crag.

116b The Rocafella *** 49m E7 (6c)
E Barbour, R Bell (Headpoint). 17/04/2007.
A fierce line, featuring hard strenuous technical climbing and hard to place gear. Start about 10m up from the large boulder at the bottom of the Grey Mans Path (just before the cliffs of the middle section run out, below a thin crack system consisting largely of sidepulls.
1) 24m (6c). Start directly below the thin right trending crack proper. Step up and left to holds at 3m. Step right and climb the imposing wall with the thin crack. Crucial nut 7 at 6m. Absorbing climbing leads up past a crucial big nut runner at just below half height. Keep climbing to a half-rest about 5m above this. Compose yourself here and prepare for some small holds. Step up and right and climb the crack (hard to place gear in the next crack on the right) using subtle movements to pass two very small holds (crux). Keep your composure and you will reap the rewards as good holds will soon materialise leading you grinning to the belay.
2) 25m. Climb any old dirt to the top.

117. Pacemaker 30m E2/3 (5c)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 1991.
Start just left of the small recess of Antagonist/Idir na Ríthe, as for Deadly Pursuits and climb the crack to a ledge at 5m. Continue on up and make a difficult move left into a crack which you follow to the top.

118. Idir na Ríthe 30m VS (4c)
L Mooney, K Murphy. 11/1983.
A short way down Grey Man's Path is a small recess with a wide crack. Climb the crack on good jams. Difficult at the bulge then easy climbing to the top.

119. Antagonist 17m E3 (6a)
K Murphy. 26/3/1985.
A hard technical problem. This route climbs the thin cracks just to the right of Idir na Rithe. Climb the cracks to the overlap. Step right and climb the other crack to the top (Rest if possible after the overlap).

The next climbs are on the far side of the gully.

120. Cumberland Blues 35m HVS (5a)
I MulQueen, I Rea. 9/1994.
This takes a continuous narrow corner formed by a flake crack on the left side (facing down) of the Grey Man's Path towards the top of the gully. Start directly across from Blood Meridian. Follow the corner crack, using bridging footholds on the right to pass the overhang at half height.

121. World of Suits 35m VS (4c)
I Rea, T McQueen. 18/9/1994.
Start directly opposite The Unforgettable Fire on the other side of the gully. Up the thin crack (on the face of a slightly separated pillar) which leads to the upper corner of Coaster. A few metres before the ledge step left for a few metres onto the face of another more definite pillar and climb the crack up it to awkwardly gain the ledge on top. Step left again onto the face of the next pillar and finish up its right-hand edge.

122. Coaster 36m (HS)
T Irving, J Leonard. 6/6/1978.
This route climbs the prow that splits the Grey Man's Path Gully taking a line up the pillars. An extremely loose climb. 1) 26m. Climb the obvious blocky section on good footholds, moving right to a grassy corner. Move left up a narrow chimney using good holds (some loose blocks) to another grass ledge above the nest at the top of the chimney. 2) 10m. Take the groove on the left (some loose rock and vegetation) on good holds.

123. Mainstream * 25m E4 (6a)
P McArthur, E Cooper. 7/4/1996.
Situated on the left side of the main Grey Man's Path gully. The route climbs the arête two metres up from Child's Play. Approach by abseil. Bridge between the right wall and arête until forced onto the arête itself. Continue up until the overhang is reached. Move up on good holds and finish more easily via the widening crack. NB the small seepage line on the left wall does not effect the climb.

124. Child's Play * 26m E3 (5c)
P McArthur, D Douglas. 20/8/1995.
Situated on the left side of the main Grey Man's Path gully. About 4 metres up from Low Profile is a blank looking corner, which is taken by Paralysed Power. Another 4 metres left of this there are two obvious clean lines.Child's Play takes the right hand one (nearest to the corner). Climb the finger crack with a hard move to reach a small bulge. With difficulty climb up and around the bulge to reach the crack again, which leads to a shallow corner. With another hard move near the top, finish on big holds.

125. Paralysed Power *** 30m E6 (6b/c)
E Cooper, P McArthur (1 rest point). 12/5/1996.
E Cooper (First free ascent).
Amazing hard climbing up the impossible looking corner right of Child's Play. Start a couple of metres left of the corner. Climb up on small edges and traverse right to base of corner (zero friend and No.4 RP in the crack on arête). Move up and back left following a series of small edges until the bottom of a smaller secondary corner is reached (small RPs). With a hard move reach a good hold on the arête and swing out to move up again and bridge across the corner (small wires in crack, hard to place). Move up and make a very hard move to reach a small hold (crux). Bridge up delicately for a couple of moves until able to jump for or reach another good hold on the arête itself. Climb up easily for a few moves on big holds then move back into corner and make a couple of insecure moves to the top.

The following two routes are gained by climbing the short way up the loose subsidiary gully on the right (as you look up) in Grey Man's Path until it is possible to traverse right.

126. Low Profile * 34m E3 (5c)
R Lawson, I Rea. 7/7/1984.
Good sustained climbing up the left-facing shallow corner. Low in the grade. Make a short traverse in from the vegetated gully to the bottom of the corner. Climb the ledges from left to right to reach the corner. Climb this to the base of a flake (crux). Climb the flake and corner above to the top.

127. Power Play * 34m E4 (6a)
D O'Sullivan, C Torrans. 9/1986.
A finger crack on the wall just right of Low Profile giving excellent climbing with just adequate protection. Climb the subsidiary gully in Grey Man's Path for a short way until it is possible to traverse right (as for Low Profile). Belay at large blocks. Climb the finger crack to a stance at 10m (21/2 friend in pod). Difficult climbing to reach good finger lock (crux). Continue up and left onto a ledge. From here gain the ledge above passing a large flake and finish up the groove on excellent finger jams.

128. Zulu 84m HVS (4b, 4c, 5a)
J Rotherdam, R Rowe. 10/1976.
The first two pitches of this route are loose and scary and can be avoided by moving in from the left as for Power Play, etc. The climb starts at the bottom of the gully on the right and finishes up an obvious corner which faces up Grey Man's Path and has a huge tombstone flake at its base.
1) 30m (4b). Climb the crack left of Burn Up to belay on a block.
2) 36m (4c). Climb the wall behind the belay (loose) trending left to a corner and block. Move left under the blocks and back right to a corner.
3) 18m (5a). Climb the corner, difficult at the chockstone.

129. Burn Up *** 75m HVS (5a, 5a)
P McHugh, S Billane (Alternate Leads). 6/1970.
The hall of fame HVS of the crag with a superb "throne" belay. Save a big cam for last few metres.This is the first groove right of Grey Man's Path.
1) 39m (5a). Climb the groove and overhang (awkward), to a belay on the left after a further 10m.
2) 36m (5a). Continue with increasing difficulty until a big ledge is reached on the right at 30m (possible belay). Step back into the crack (friend 4 useful) and layback hurriedly to the top.

129a Abyssinia 80m E3 5c
C Sheridan C Torrans 30/May/2015
Excellent new route just right of Burn Up: 2 contrasting pitches, the 1st taking a series of cracks and grooves, much better than it looks, and the 2nd following a steep and sustained line up the bulging head wall.
1 40m Start just right of Famished Road, climb the cleaned crack passing a large block and continue up until forced right to join another crack. Follow this until you can move right again to another crack which leads up and left over a small bulge to a block (large sling runner). Continue up on good ledges and belay on the black wall below the overhang (small ledge with lots of small wires and cams).
2 40m Climb up to the undercut block and turn it on the right before taking a bit of a breather on the ledge above left. From there follow the steep cracks to a big sloping ledge and possible belay. To finish start up the corner on the right before making an awkward move left to the wide crack and flake (4 or 5 BD cam) which are followed to the top.

130. The Famished Road 63m HVS (5a, 4c, 5a)
I Rea, J McDonald. 23/10/1993.
Start about 3m right of Burn Up at a groove.
1) 30m (5a). Climb the shallow groove which leads after about 20m to the right arête of Burn Up. Up the arête for a few metres until an obvious foot ledge leads left into Burn Up. Up Burn Up to about a metre below the main overhang. Step left to belay in the alcove beside pillar top.
2) 25m (4c). Up the groove behind the belay and follow the crack in the arête until level with the belay on Burn Up. Go up left on good holds to reach a stance behind the huge flake.
3) 18m (5a). Climb the corner crack as for Zulu.

131. Creeper * 85m E1 (5a, 5b, 5b)
P McHugh, S Billane (Alternate leads, One aid point). 8/1971.
C Torrans, R Cowan (First free ascent). 8/3/1970.
A good route despite being a bit overgrown. Start at a clean hand crack about 20m right of Grey Man's Path below a big groove line with a large overhang at mid-height.
1) 30m (5a). Climb the crack and continue up the side of the groove to belay on the top of the pinnacle.
2) 40m (5b). From the belay traverse left into a cracked corner which is followed up to the imposing overhang. Traverse right underneath the overhang and continue directly up into the groove. Belay. This is a restricted stance making leading through awkward as the second is better to belay below the leader.
3) 15m (5b). Continue up the groove with increasing difficulty.

132. Semaphore Signals ** 75m E4 (5a, 5c)
R Lawson. 20/7/1982.
A powerful line that's known to put manners on people. Start at the clean hand crack 20m right of Grey Man's Path (as for Creeper).
1) 30m (5a). Climb the crack to good ledges. Step left and continue up the blocky wall for about 7m to belay below a small overlap.
2) 45m (5c). Climb the blocky groove on large holds past another overlap to enter a groove. Up this with increasing difficulty to a third overlap. Climb this on the right and up the crack to a spike. Climb the juggy wall and crack above with hard moves to enter a groove and then up the steep corner to the top.

133. Kraken 95m E2 (5a, 5b, 5b)
D Renshaw, C Torrans. (Two aid points, Alternate leads). 5/5/74.
An intimidating route, so intimidating that it's still awaiting a second ascent. It takes the left-hand chimney of the two which split this section of the crag. Start about 35m right of Grey Man's Path in a grassy bay.
1) 43m (5a). Start up grassy cracks to a perched block at 9m from where it is possible to step right into cracks and follow these to a chimney. Using a small nut for aid climb the chimney to a small stance below an overhang.
2) 28m (5b). Continue up the crack to an overhang, past a chockstone and on up to a chimney. The first ascensionists used a protection peg (in place) as a foothold in the narrow section above the chockstone. Continue with difficulty until a small sloping stance is gained.
3) 24m (5b). Continue up the final chimney which is climbed facing left.

134. Cat's Malacky 90m E2 (4c, 5c, 5c)
C Torrans, C Sheridan, I Rea. 2/10/1982
A good climb taking the right-hand of the two prominent cracks. Start at the bottom of the small buttress right of the grass chimney below a clean wide crack.
1) 25m (4c). Climb the wide crack to the top of the columns.
2) 35m (5c). Make a hard move left into a chimney. Climb this to a belay below a wide crack.
3) 35m (5c). Climb the wide crack to an overhang, step right to a large foothold (this section can be wet but has an abundance of jugs).

135. Saladin 95m E5 (4c, 6b, 6b)
J Codling, H Lancaster, M Manson. 13/7/1984.
This route takes a thin crack up the steep wall right of the huge crack line (Cat's Malacky) and shares the first pitch of this route to the large ledge.
1) 30m (4c). As for Cat's Malacky.
2) 20m (6b). Step right then up to a small overlap (nut and sling in place). Make some insecure moves right and up into a groove. Follow the crack through the huge bulge to a stance.
3) 45m (6b). Follow the crack on the left for a few metres until the main crack on the right can be reached. Climb the wall just right of the crack having recourse occasionally to the crack for protection and holds. An in-place protection peg marks the crux area. Continue up more easily until a step left can be made from two flat-topped spikes onto the final superb crinkled wall.

136. Thran 75m E2 (5b, 5c, 5a)
D Stelfox, S Wheeler. 28/9/1985.
A powerful-looking line that takes the right-hand crack of the two cracks that border the right side of this section of crag, unfortunately somewhat loose and dirty.
1) 25m (5b). Move up and right to gain the base of the crack. Climb this passing a small overhang on the right. Belay under the large overhang.
2) 40m (5c). Step right to the base of the V groove just right of the overhang. Swing back left into the main crack and up to a welcome rest on a jammed flake. Continue up the wide crack above (easy but strenuous) passing an overhang to a small niche and belay.
3) 10m (5a). Chimney up the niche and swing out on good holds then up and left on a ledge. Move back right and up a blocky crack to the top.

White Lightning Amphitheatre

Beyond Thran a huge Amphitheatre comes into view. The path is no more than a goat track in this area, it weaves around the huge boulders and crevasses sometimes disappearing altogether, and keeps quite a distance out from the crag. The going can be fairly rough, particularly in rock shoes, and it is advisable to keep to the path until you have identified your route and come level with it, before leaping in among the man-eating boulders.

The crag takes a turn and forms a right-facing corner with a vegetated gully. Infidel climbs the left wall of this gully.

137. Infidel *** 64m E5/6 (6b, 5c)
K Murphy, G Jones (One aid point). 22/6/1986.
E Cooper, S McCrory (First free ascent). 1989.
A striking crack line and the first pitch is always clean. Pumpy and steep and with it all to do near the top. One of the best at the crag. Unfortunately the top pitch is a bit grubby. This route climbs the wall of the gully mentioned above.
1) 32m (6b). Climb the right crack until it is possible to step into the left-hand crack. Climb this to the top (crux) then follow good holds left to a stance below a groove.
2) 32m (5c). Climb the groove until it ends. Move left and follow an easy line up the slab.

The next section of crag is heavily vegetated (no climbs to date) and is bordered on the right by a powerful-looking black V groove (Black Magic).

138. Black Magic ** 75m E4 (5b, 6a, 5b)
G Jones, J Adams (Alternate Leads). 26/8/1985.
The impressive corner and overhang just right of the vegetated wall. The last 8m below the overhang are usually wet.
1) 24m (5b). Climb the cracks and belay in the back of the chimney.
2) 36m (6a). Continue up the tapering chimney and crack to a foot-hold stance about 5m above the overhang.
3) 15m (5b). Up the continuation cracks to the top.

The next area has Black Magic on its left edge and a grassy gully on its right. Crusader is just left of this gully.

139. Born to Run *** 81m E4 (6a, 5c, 5c)
E Cooper, M Manson (One aid point). 28/8/1982.
K Murphy (First Free Ascent). 11/6/1982.
A magnificent route, one of the best in the country. Start about 7m right of the huge black groove (Black Magic) below an overhang of 12m.
1) 32m (6a). Climb the wall and corner until it is possible to move right to a flake, use this to gain the overhang. Climb the overhang and continue up the crack for 10m passing two small ledges and belay on the third.
2) 20m (5c). Follow the crack until it is possible to step left and up to a ledge, then climb a series of small ledges to a semi-hanging belay below a finger crack.
3) 29m (5c). Climb the finger crack above (sustained) and follow the diagonal fault right to a groove. Continue up the groove with some difficulty and move right to a ledge. Gain a higher ledge and continue on good holds to a ledge just below the top. Easy climbing to finish.

140. Hallowe'en *** 85m E4 (5c, 6a, 4c)
E Cooper, P Nolan. 31/10/1985.
Two excellent pitches, reasonable for the grade. A short distance right of the Black Magic groove there is a long overhang just above the ground. Start at the right-hand end of this at a short corner and flake.
1) 30m (5c). Step off the flake and climb the left wall of the corner, move left to a small roof and climb this using the crack to a good ledge above.
2) 45m (6a). Climb the crack passing two ledges and continue up (sustained) until it starts to run out level with a small clean ledge on the left. Make some technical moves left to the ledge. Continue up to the slabby corner above.
3) 10m (4c). Climb the slabby corner.

141. Hallowe'en Arête ** 12m E4/5 (6b)
E Cooper, P McArthur. 7/4/1996.
Superb climbing up the arête above the second belay of Hallowe'en. Approach by abseiling down the last pitch of Hallowe'en to belay directly below the arête or climb the first two pitches of Hallowe'en. Climb up to the start of the arête and move to the right side to a thin crack (good small wires for protection). With hard moves up the arête gain a good hold and then up to reach a good small ledge below the top. With intimidating moves off the good ledge move up more easily and pull over the top.

141aHallowe'en Left 10m E3 (5c)
K Power, D Ayton. 08/06/2005.
Start at the 2nd belay on Hallowe'en. Traverse left for 4m on small edges to a large flake. Sling the flake and climb the face for 4m to a ledge and good side wire and a zero friend above. From here follow the thin crack to the top. Climbing is mainly on the face on edges and small ledges with micos and peanuts for protection.

141b Scott's Pine 70m E4 (5c, 6a)
N Colton, L Creamer. 30/05/2008.
To the right of Hallowe'en is a big grassy gully. 10m right of the grassy gully is a small rib below a cleaned ledge at 7m. (The rib is also 5m left of some small detached pinacles up against the cliff).
1) 20m (5c). Climb the wall just right of the small rib until it is possible to pull left to a spacious ledge (good runner low down on left of ledge). Climb the crack and wall above to belay on good nuts at a black niche.
2) 50m (6a). Climb the crack and groove above to the top (the very wide section below the sloping shelf can be avoided by stepping left - not recommended).

142. Crusader ** 80m E4 (5b, 6a)
K Murphy, T Ryan (Two aid points). 25/9/1982.
K Murphy (First Free Ascent). 7/1983.
This route is situated on the left of the first grassy gully right of the prominent groove of Black Magic. Start in the corner capped by the overhang.
1) 44m (5b). Climb the awkward crack on the left wall of the corner to good holds at 20m. Climb the steep corner crack passing a rocking but secure block to an overhang. Step right and up to a small belay ledge (good nut 3m above).
2) 36m (6a). Climb up to a band of overhangs, climb these and trend slightly left and straight up (about 2m right of a blank corner) to a second overhang (rest nut used above the overhang). From just above the overhang step left (with great difficulty) into a corner and continue up the crack to a layback corner. Climb this to a good jug, stand on the jug (difficult), continue more easily to the top.

142a The Icarus Gun ** 59m E3 (6a)
M Kocsis, G Gilmore. 29/06/2009.
A sustained and well protected open groove, with only two jams on the entire route. Abseil from flat blocks 20 paces west of the Hallowe'en block directly down the line (or from the Hallowe'en block itself). If doing this in one pitch, go heavy on wires 1-5, at least 5 of each, take plenty of extenders, and a set of cams up to No. 2, with a single No. 3.5. The length is 59m from the top of the plinth, or 62m from the ground. Start from the grassy plinth formed by three short pillars that lean against the cliff (clearly visible from the Hallowe'en block). Scrappy, but easy, climbing up the left side of the groove leads to the No. 3.5 placement at 5m. Move up again, step across and start climbing. A full selection of techniques should be employed (but leave your jamming skills at home). There is a hollow jug high up the route on the left wall which has defied all attempts at removing it: it should be treated with respect, but not caution!

143. Eat the Peach * 68m E3 (5c, 6a)
C Sheridan, C Torrans, D O'Sullivan. 25/5/1986.
A serious first pitch and superb technical climbing on the second. There is a small cairn to the right of the huge black groove of Black Magic. Go straight in from this to a pinnacle.
1) 48m (5c). Climb the wall just left of the pinnacle on flat holds to a horizontal break. Move right to a crack, continue up the crack (sustained) to where it becomes a groove at 35m. Climb this until a move left can be made near the top of a short steep corner above a very good nut placement and drop down onto big ledges.
2) 20m (6a). Step back right into a corner and climb this to the top. (sustained).

144. The Slope 80m E3 (5b, 5c, 5b)
P McGarrity, J Magennis. Summer 1996.
1) 25m (5b). Start as for The Badlands, but at the top of the crack move left and up onto a good ledge.
2) 45m (5c). Climb the steep groove/corner above the belay until able to exit onto the belay for the 3rd pitch of The Badlands (The Badlands come up the other side of the pillar).
3) 10m (5b). Climb the corner as for The Badlands.

145. The Badlands ** 80m E4 (5b, 5c, 6a, 5b)
E Cooper, I Rea. 30/5/1985.
A tremendous route giving excellent wall climbing in superb positions. Start opposite the cairn and 15m right of the pinnacle (Eat the Peach) below a holly bush which is at a height of 23m.
1) 23m (5b). Climb the pleasant crack and belay on the grass ledge with the holly bush.
2) 22m (5c). From the right end of the ledge climb a short pillar. Step right to an open groove and climb this (good runner at 7m), continue more easily to the overhang and traverse 5m rightwards to a good belay ledge.
3) 25m (6a). Climb the crack on the left (Day Tripper) for 5m and traverse left using a good foothold and small fingerholds into a groove, and gain a long narrow handhold. Climb the groove with sustained interest to belay in a final corner.
4) 10m (5b). Climb the corner.

146. Day Tripper ** 75m E3 (5c, 6a)
E Cooper. 23/4/1985.
Good varied climbing. Start about 15m right of the pinnacle of Eat the Peach below a crack line that starts at one-third height.
1) 45m (5c). Climb the corner to a recess until it is possible to move right to a small ledge just below the overhang. Make a couple of moves up the arête to a good hold, move back left and climb the cracks to easier ground. Belay on the right of the crack.
2) 30m (6a). Climb the crack, difficult to finish.

147. Streets of Fire *** 75m E3 (5c, 6a)
E Cooper, K Murphy. 19/5/1985.
The superb crack on the second pitch gives tremendous climbing. Approach as for the previous three routes and start just right of Day Tripper.
1) 45m (5c). Climb the ledges and follow a thin crack. Step right at the large foothold and climb the recess to an overhang. Climb this (difficult) and continue up the crack to the belay (as for Day Tripper).
2) 30m (6a). Climb the crack above to where it ends. Move up and left to a good hold (crux) then continue up the groove to the top.

The following routes are situated around the prominent perched block and a set of staggered overhangs a short distance above the ground.

148. White Lightning 73m E3 (5b, 5c)
T Irving, B Walker (Alternate Leads). 6/1978.
This route takes a left-facing whitish corner. About 4m left of the staggered overhangs there is a sloping ledge a few metres above the ground, start below this.
1) 24m (5b). Gain the sloping ledge and climb in the groove to a wide crack. Climb this and move right into a shallow crack at 18m. Climb this to the ledge.
2) 49m (5c). Climb the crack and corner to the top. Sustained.

149. Zeus 83m E2/3 (5b, 5b/c)
E Cooper, S McCrory. 12/4/87.
The soaring groove right of White Lightning gives varied climbing at a surprisingly reasonable standard.
1) ??m (5b). Take the rib breaching two roofs 10m right of White Lightning. Climb it and continue up cracks and grooves for about 15m to a point where a traverse left to a sloping ledge can be made. A groove is now followed until you're forced right to some flaky ledges, belay.
2) ??m (5b/c). Climb a bulge, then follow a flaky groove to a bottomless slot in the overhang. Exposure returns as a bulge is climbed to a jammed block and crack which is followed quickly to the top.

150. The Weasel ** 90m E2 (5b, 5b, 5c)
R Lawson, G Murray. 22/4/1984.
The third pitch has a superb hand crack that makes up for the first and second. This route takes the corner formed by the right-most of the staggered overhangs.
1) 40m (5b). Climb the corner to the overhang at 7m. Traverse right and move up into the corner proper, climb this with sustained interest until the corner widens and becomes much easier. Belay 7m below the overhang.
2) 10m (5b). Climb up to the overhang and step left onto the cracked left wall. Climb the overhang with some difficulty to a belay ledge.
3) 40m (5c). Up the excellent crack above passing several bulges to a left-facing corner. Easier climbing to the top.

151. Seabhac ** E5/6 (5c, 6a, 5c)
D O'Sullivan, P Harrington. 8/1991.
This big 'un follows the crack immediately left of Broc and involves lots of immaculate and sustained thin crack/face climbing with loads of gear - especially small Rocks.
1) 40m (5c). Start 3m left of Broc below an overhang at 10m. Climb the crack and right facing corner to the overhang which is tackled on the left-hand side to gain goods jugs at the start of the thin crack. Climb up the crack for about 20m using a variety of techniques until a move left gets you onto some spacious flat holds on the wall. Move up the wall, with small wires on the right to a belay stance at a peg runner.
2) 25m (6a). The crack above is difficult to start with and maintains a sustained nature up to a slab at the top. Keep going up the slab for another 5m until a short traverse right finds you at the comfortable belay seat in Broc - large friends make the belay even more comfortable.
3) 10m (5c). Finish up Broc.

152. Broc * 90m E3 (4b, 5c, 5b, 5c)
C Sheridan, C Torrans. 19/5/1985.
A good route, with a variety of crack climbing. Sustained and strenuous. The route takes the right-facing corner directly in from the perched block.
1) 20m (4b). Climb the right-hand groove moving left below a small overhang to the belay.
2) 40m (5c). Climb past the overhang and up the corner crack with sustained difficulty, belay on the sloping ledges on the left.
3) 20m (5b). Continue up the now widening crack through the bulge to the foot of the final wide crack.
4) 10m (5c).Climb the wide crack above (eases towards the top).

153. Shattered Innocence 88m E3 (5b, 5c, 5c)
M Daly, P Harrington. 14/8/1994.
Start at the corner 20m right of Broc.
1) 40m (5b). Climb the corner and face to a ledge. Peg belay.
2) 35m (5c). Climb the crack and corner to an overhang. Climb the crack strenuously on finger jams, improving to better jams and a rest. Follow a crack to ledge and good belay.
3) 13m (5c). Climb the crack strenuously to the top (off-width). Large friends are useful.

To the right of the wall of Shattered Innocence the top of the crag dips in a fault line forming a steep vegetated gully with a clean wall on its right.

154. November 78m HVS (4c, 5a)
R Cole, M Smith. 8/11/1980.
This route climbs the left edge of the gully up a series of short corners.
1) 39m (4c). Climb a series of short corners and move right below a bulge. Climb the bulge (crux) to a peg belay (in place) on the ledge.
2) 39m (5a). Move left and climb the well-protected wall by a crack in the corner. Continue more easily to a large boulder in a small chimney - surmount the boulder and finish up the wall and narrow chimney.

To the right of the wall of Shattered Innocence the top of the crag dips in a fault line forming a steep vegetated gully with a clean wall on its right.

155. New City Allstars * 66m E1 (5b, 5b, 4c)
M Smith, R Cole. 4/5/1980.
C Torrans, D Stelfox, C Sheridan (First Free Ascent).
Steep exposed climbing up the right wall of the grassy gully taking the crack with the wide niche at about half-height.
1) 24m (5b). Climb the crack and chimney to the first overhang, climb this to continue up to the ledge.
2) 27m (5b). Climb the awkward jamming groove/chimney (crux) to the second overhang. Traverse left and continue up the exposed wall on small holds - becoming easier to the ledge.
3) 15m (4c). Climb the delightful jamming crack which widens to a chimney.

The next route is situated on the wall just right of the deep vegetated gully. The corner on the right is Scarecrow.

156. Martin's Route 78m E2 (4c, 5b, 5b)
M Smith et al. 1982
This route takes the straight crack up the wall. Start in a recess below overhangs a few metres left of the corner (Scarecrow).
1) 10m (4c). Climb the corner and step left onto a ledge, continue left on good jugs to a spike belay below a crack line.
2) 45m (5b). Climb the crack (sustained) to below a ledge. Step right and gain the ledge.
3) 23m (5b). Move left and up to ledges and a corner crack. Climb this and step right to ledges and up these into the dark recesses of the chimney. Climb this passing a jammed block.

The next route is situated on the wall just right of the deep vegetated gully. The corner on the right is Scarecrow.

157. Scarecrow ** 97m HVS (5a, 4c, 5a)
J McKenzie, P McGrath. 27/6/1981.
A good varied route taking the corner (left-facing) on the right of the gully.
1) 43m (5a). Climb the groove passing a block on its left and belay in the corner.
2) 27m (4c). Climb the corner for 23m and traverse right using a horizontal crack and belay below the wide crack.
3) 27m (5a). Climb the crack above to a large jammed block and finish up the chimney with care.

The Bird Hide Block Area

In the next bay westwards (to the right) there is an enormous slumped block leaning against the cliff. The block once housed a birdwatchers' hide for observing a pair of Golden Eagles, which nested nearby in the late 60's. The routes in this area are described in relation to this block.

This section shares the gothic atmosphere of the Amphitheatre and is even less accessible. It is arguable which descent gully approach is preferable - the Ballycastle Descent Gully path is better but longer.

157a Joints and Jams 85m E2 (5c, 5b)
A Marshall, C Hiller. 13/06/2006.
Start 10m left of the Bird Hide Block.
1) 40m (5c). Climb the crack towards the large overhang for 25m until able to use holds on the left. Move up and back into the crack until a semi hanging belay stance.
2) 45m (5b). Move up and slightly right from the belay and enter the large crack. Follow this moving through 2 chimneys, easing after 25m, until a ledge below the final corner. Move up the corner until the last 2m, then onto the arête on the left and finish on big edges.

158. Samhna 100m HS
P McDermott, H O'Brien. 11/1968.
60m left of the block there is an obvious pillar and cleft extending one-third way down the cliff, reached by a chimney line from below. This is Samhna. It is a loose and vegetated route and there are some nesting birds in the vicinity. It should be avoided during the nesting season and even at other times as it is one of the least attractive routes on the crag.
1) 42m. Climb the grassy buttress to the base of the chimney.
2) 12m. Climb the chimney to the large grassy ledge.
3) 18m. Surmount the blocks on the left and continue up the chimney over more chockstones. 4) 28m Move up and right to a chimney. Climb up the outside and move into the cleft and bear left. Clamber up to the top of the cliff.

159. King Cobra 93m E1 (5a, 5a)
K Higgs, T Ryan, S Windrim. 17/9/1977.
Start 30m left of the enormous block at the base of the clean blocky groove opposite some boulders, one of which is triangular and flat.
1) 48m (5a). Climb the crack easily to small ledges at 7m (possible belay). Move up the groove, awkward to start, and continue with sustained interest to a good belay ledge on the left.
2) 45m (5a). Climb the groove above the belay to steep jamming cracks, up these to better holds on the right, step back left and continue more easily up to a wide crack and a stance below a V-shaped chimney. Using this and a good jug on the right gain a small ledge right of the overhang. From the ledge finish up by either climbing the steep crack on the left or the thin groove on the right.

'The following three routes start from the top of the huge block. Scramble up its left side.

159a Rumours *** 80m E5 (5c, 6a)
A Marshall, R Bell, A Moles. 12/7/2010.
Start at the bottom of a groove line on top of the bird hide block 5m left of the forked crack of Baptism of Fire.
1. 55m (5c). A bold start leads up the groove to better gear and a crack system. Follow this until forced right into another groove. Move up this into a deeper groove, half way up this is a good stance (possible belay). Climb to the top of the groove and follow the crack that moves left. Follow this until a step up and right leads to a large sloping ledge.
2. 25m (6a) A fantastic finger crack awaits. Move left from the belay and climb the crack with increasing difficulty until it finally relents with good jams. Better holds lead to the top.

160. Baptism of Fire * 60m E5 (6a, 6b)
K Murphy, T Ryan (Two aid points). 27/8/1983.
This route takes the forked crack left of the corner of Raven.
1) 30m (6a). Follow the crack until it is possible to step left to the left-hand crack. Climb up the main crack and follow this past large ledges on the left (loose blocks). Continue up to a hanging stance at the short offwidth.
2) 30m (6b). Continue up the crack, hard at the offwidth, and then on good jugs. When these run out move up and left on small holds using a nut for aid. Continue up to gain a finger crack (crux). Follow this to finish (rest point used near the top).

161. Raven 78m E2 (5b, 5b, 5a)
T Ryan, K Higgs (Alternate leads). 5/4/1980.
The obvious corner which rises from the massive detached block.
1) 24m (5b). Climb the thin corner crack to a good belay ledge.
2) 39m (5b). Climb the corner for 21m by bridging. Steep jamming up the slightly overhanging section above (crux) leads to a good stance.
3) 15m (5a). Climb the crack to an overhang at mid-height. Gain a large spike above and continue to the top.

162. Masquerade 25m HS (4b)
I Rea, M Rea. 14/7/1984.
A pleasant route taking the left side of the huge block. Climb the shallow groove to the overhang, turn this on the left, and move back right to the main crack. Follow this to the top. Descend on the left side of the block.

163. Back to the Future 8 ** 80m E4 (6a, 6a, 5b)
E Cooper, R Brown. Spring 1990.
Starts right of the huge block where Masquerade is situated and takes the obvious soaring groove line. High quality sustained climbing with hardly a jam on either of the first two pitches explodes yet again the myth of Fair Head's crack climbing image. A great route!
1) 20m (6a). A quick pull gains the groove, which gives sustained climbing until some better holds are reached at 15m. Continue up it until a semi-hanging belay can be taken at a ledge on the right.
2) 40m (6a). Great climbing leads up the groove to an overhang which is turned spectacularly on the right. Move up and belay on one of the biggest ledges you'll find at the Head.
3) 20m (5b). A perfect jamming crack leads straight up to the top.

Aproaches to areas reached from the Ballycastle Descent Gully.

All of the remaining sections of the cliff, except Farrangandoo and Marconi's Cove, are best approached from the Ballycastle Descent Gully. These sections are the Bealach Rúnda Area, The Terraces, Rathlin Wall, Ballycastle Descent Gully East and West and the Prow (the last two being on the far side of the gully).

To the right of the huge detached block the wall runs out into a vegetated gully.Scorpion takes a line up the wall just left of the gully.

164. Scorpion *** 77m E3 (5b, 5c, 5c)
T Ryan, K Murphy (Alternate leads). 3/1983.
A good route taking a wide groove line not easily seen from below. Start in a little grassy bay just left of the gully beside a small tooth of rock. A small holly bush about 7m up and to the right of the route is easy to identify.
1) 7m (5b). Step off the tooth of rock and climb the short groove and step left to belay on the ledges.
2) 43m (5c). Climb the long and sustained groove to a ledge.
3) 27m (5c). Climb the corner crack to another ledge and continue up the groove above (difficult) to the final steep corner. Follow this to the top.

The next two routes are just right of the gully, Walk On The Wild Side takes the prominent left-facing corner and Something Horrible creeps up the wall left of this.

165. Something Horrible 75m E3 (6a, 5c, 5b)
K Murphy, T Ryan (Alternate leads). 6/8/1984.
This route takes a series of cracks up the centre of the wall left of the corner. Start 20m left of the Walk on the Wide Side corner. Scramble up to belay below the groove capped by an overhang.
1) 25m (6a). Climb the groove to the overhang. Climb this (crux) to a difficult crack which leads to a belay ledge.
2) 40m (5c). Climb two white cracks to large holds. Continue up leftwards to a curved flake crack which leads to a shallow chimney. Climb the chimney to a crack and hanging belay.
3) 10m (5b). Take the left-trending crack to an overhang. Climb this to a small niche on the right below a larger overhang. Step right into a groove, follow this to the top.

166. Walk on the Wild Side * 75m E1 (5a, 5b, 5a)
T Ryan, O Jacob, S Gallwey. 22/5/1982.
A very popular route which follows a crack line up the right wall of the corner. Start near the top of a muddy gully.
1) 30m (5a). Climb the corner crack, passing first a jammed block then a ledge on the left. Belay on footholds 10m above the ledge.
2) 30m (5b). Climb the crack and the overhang above and continue up the good crack to a belay at the base of the deep chimney.
3) 15m (5a). Climb the chimney to the overhang, climb the crack above (sometimes wet). Two No. 4 friends are useful to protect this section.

An Bealach Rúnda area

It takes roughly twenty-five minutes to reach this part of the crag from the Ballycastle Descent Gully. From the bottom of the gully turn right (east) and follow a faint path which rises a little under the wall of the huge overhangs (Wall of Prey) and turns a large boulder beneath the big corner of Equinox. At this point a stretch of cliff, Rathlin Wall, comes into view bounded in the distance by the headwall of Cúchulainn. The path rises noticeably below Cúchulainn as it crosses a grassy col and passes between a huge boulder and the main face. Just beyond the col the lower part of the face gives way to some broken heathery ledges which mark the start of the Terraces. This is a short section and it ends at the large prow high on the cliff a little further on.

Beyond the prow lies the a very long stretch of cliff in the first half of which there are as yet no routes. About 150m beyond the prow the path rise slightly and more of the cliff comes into view. At this point there is a 10m high tooth of rock in front of the crag - a fairly humble feature in itself, but in an area with an array of uniform columns it has had greatness thrust upon it. It is known as the Fang and many routes are described in relation to it.

About 150m left of the Fang there is another landmark - An Bealach Runda itself - a huge detached pillar topped by a large flake which leans against the cliff face at half height, clearly visible from a distance.

A 90m abseil down An Gobán Saor deposits you perfectly for the next 3 routes.

166a Un Jour, Peut-Etre 110m E6 6b
John McCune, Paul Swail 2014
This route climbs a soaring groove and crackline left of "Where the wild things are" (no description of this route available) passing a large over hang at two thirds height. Sustained exposed and potentially slightly wilder. Incredible climbing, mega positions and full to the brim with exposure. Well protected. Two stakes at the top.
Start below the obvious groove that leads directly to the overhang.
1. 27m. 5c. Scramble up a few grassy blocks to gain the groove. Climb the cracks in the groove for about 25m and belay anywhere you can before the groove steepens.
2. 40m. 6b. Continue up the groove to where it steepens. Bridge up high and climb the righthand crack for a few meters and gain good holds. Make difficult moves leftwards to gain the crack on the left. follow this crack to gain a big ledge. Climb the wall above the ledge with difficulty (crimps on the right) then move left to gain a big flatty. Climb the crack to belay below the overhang. (Big Blue and Yellow Camalot)
3.20m. 6b. Continue up cracks into a corner until forced rightwards. crux moves through a tricky roof gain a crack on the final head wall. make a move rightwards to a good holds and then belay slightly left again where the crack widens.
4.22m. 6a. Climb the sustained cracks straight up to the top.

167. An Gobán Saor * 90m E1 (5a, 4c, 5b)
D Somers, T Hand. 9/1979.
A good route. It takes a high right-facing open corner left of An Bealach Runda for its crux pitch and this is reached by the crack/groove which runs up to the right-hand end of the grassy terrace below this corner. Start at the foot of this crack/groove line about 30m left of An Bealach Runda.
1) 30m (5a). Climb the crack (continuous bridging on the right). Belay on a good ledge above the crack.
2) 21m (4c). Continue up the groove to an entertaining chockstone and move out left. Reach the terrace and cross it to belay at the foot of the corner.
3) 39m (5b). Climb the corner to reach an inhospitable little niche 5m below the top. Move out right (crux) to a flat ledge, from where a higher edge can be reached, and finish up directly.

168. The X-Men ** 90m E3 (5c, 6a, 5a)
C Sheridan, C Torrans. (Alternate leads). 7/4/1996.
Start just left of An Bealach Rúnda.
1) 35m (5c). Climb the long hand crack (sustained, lots of 9, 10, 11 hexes) and belay in the pulpit above the flakes.
2) 25m (6a). Climb the grooves and cracks (difficult to start) to a good ledge and continue up the crack above making some hard moves to gain the big sloping ledge.
3) 30m (5a). Finish up An Bealach Rúnda.

168a The Wolverines Finish 30m E4 (6b/c)
A Marshall, A Moles (One rest). 17/08/2007.
A variation finish to X-Men. Start from the top of the large An Bealach Runda belay ledge at the top of the 2nd pitch. Make a hard move off the ledge to gain positive holds. Boldly climb the wall and corner until you reach the top of the pedestal. Step down and move right onto the face, unleash your claws making a desperate move (for the small in height 6c and diabolical) to gain the bottom of the crack. Unlocking the keystone gives access to the top.

169. An Bealach Rúnda *** 105m E1 (5a, 5b, 5a)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 15/1/1976.
An excellent outing, one of the most popular climbs on the main cliff. This route takes the line up behind the huge detached pillar capped by a large bridging flake (visible from the ground) and trends leftward across the wall above. Start at the foot of the crack to the right of a small collapsed column, about 150m left of the Fang.
1) 45m (5a). Climb the crack and chimney to a ledge at 12m. Move up left to climb the crack between the main column and the wall, continue by chimneying between the column wall, passing a ledge on the right at 36m. Continue up with a slight increase in difficulty to a good ledge on the right.
2) 30m (5b). Move up and left airily to gain the top of the detached column and flake. Across the flake to the wall, then an awkward move up the wall brings jugs and a ledge on the right. Climb the short wall on the left moving in from the right (crux) continue up the thin crack to the ramp. Easier climbing leads to a large ledge. Climb a short awkward groove to exit right onto a large ramp, move back left to a good ledge.
3) 30m (5a). Climb the ramp and make an awkward move left to small ledges. Go up right to a corner crack, follow this to a belay on the ledge (possible belay). Climb the steep crack in the final wall.

169a An Bealach Eile *** 30m E8 (6c)
R Bell, A Marshall (Headpoint). 15/05/2008.
A beautiful line up the steep blank wall above the big ledge on An Bealach Runda. Continually engaging and with the crux right where you don't want it. From the left end of the big ledge make tricky moves up and right to a hard pull off two slopey side pulls. Small nut at 9 metres. Move diagonally up and right to get established on the big pedestal. Climb the slight groove above past a huge juggy flake to a flat hold and a crucial blind nut placement out left. Finish up the horribly thin seam in the groove up and right.

170. Sirocco 99m E1 (5b, 5b)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 26/5/1978.
Wide cracks and chimneys, if you're interested. Start 4m right of An Bealach Runda in the same group of columns, at the base of a wide crack formed by the column which is furthest to the right and the main crag.
1) 45m (5b). Climb the wide crack, difficult just below the jammed blocks. Surmount the blocks on jugs and continue up the crack to a large ledge, then up a short groove to a higher ledge.
2) 54m (5b). Step right to some cracks below the big groove. Climb the cracks and jammed blocks (possible belay in the groove at 15m). Climb the groove with sustained difficulty, passing a greasy section (crux) to reach a crack in the right wall (this is part of a huge flake). Move right onto good footholds. Step back left into the groove and follow this and the good jamming crack to the belay.

171. Northern Exposure *** 90m E5 (6a/b, 6a/b, 6a)
E Cooper, A Moles. 20/8/1995.
A powerful groove/crack line 2m right of Sirocco. Similar in quality to Born to Run and Hallowe'en, but harder and more sustained.
1) 50m (6a/b). Follow the groove and thin crack to a ledge at 40m (possible belay). Continue up the deceptively difficult groove above to a flake and nut belay.
2) 30m (6a/b). A technical groove and roof lead to continually interesting climbing up a crack then a groove leading to the final belay on the ledges just 10m below the top.
3) 10m (6a). A little more exposure and you're at the top.

172. Waiting for the Sun * 99m E4 (5c, 6a, 6a)
E Cooper, A Moles, R Brown. Spring 1992. (Still awaits a second ascent).
The route takes the obvious corner/ groove line starting approx. halfway up the crag, about 10m right of Sirocco.
1) 40m (5c). Start at a crack leading to a small overhang at 10m. Go left at the overhang and follow the varied crack to the ledge. Layback up the wide crack to a pedestal stance under the corner.
2) 40m (6a). Sustained technical climbing up the corner and its left wall (R.P.s useful) leads to a crack and steep moves onto the right arête. Follow cracks and groove to a stance below the final corner.
3) 15m (6a). A short pitch - a tricky bulge leads to the top.

173. Flashdance 90m E2 (5b, 5b, 5b/c)
K Murphy, C Bloxham. 29/6/1985.
A bit loose and dirty. This route takes a crack which runs through some bulges and starts about 13m left of the Fang. (Large friends are useful).
1) 30m (5b). Climb the groove, stepping right low down to avoid some muck. Climb the crack to a ledge.
2) 30m (5b). Climb the crack to a stance at the bottom of a chimney.
3) 30m (5b/c). Follow this chimney/crack to the top.

174. Peacadh Marfach 90m E2 (4c, 5b, 5a, 4c)
D Somers, C Torrans. 9/1979.
Start about 4m right of the Fang, at the base of two cracks, one characteristically straight, formed by two pillars with jammed blocks and a large, smooth, rectangular block at their base.
1) 27m (4c). Climb the cracks, make a long step left from the first platform and go up to a short chimney with a big sharply-angular chockstone. This leads to a spacious platform below the main overhang.
2) 18m (5b). A short steep fault of shattered rock leads to the overhang. Move out left on sound flakes and up into a chimney leading to the second overhang. Avoid this easily on the left and continue up the groove. (First ascent belayed after 18m. Two large chockstones 12m higher provide possible stance for longer second pitch).
3) 30m (5a). Continue up the groove/chimney. Frequent footholds outside the groove allow its green and greasy depths to be avoided pleasantly.
4) 15m (4c). Steep broken rock (sound) leads to the top.

175. Absolute Zero ** 46m E5 (5c, 6b, 4c)
E Cooper, A Moles. Summer 1995.
A 50m abseil 5m left (looking out towards the sea) of the Fang leads to a belay at the bottom of a hanging corner.
1) 10m (5c). The thin crack in the corner is climbed with interest to reach an excellent belay on the left arête of the groove.
2) 30m (6b). Up the groove above until forced right. Surmount the roof above and bridge delicately up the corner to a second more substantial roof. Climb this (crux) and continue to a ledge and belay.
3) 10m (4c). Follow the obvious weakness to the top.

176. Give Up ** 99m E4 (4c, 5a, 6b)
T Irving, J McGarry (Two aid points). 9/1979.
E Cooper, H O'Brien (First free ascent). 21/5/1995.
The original route has been quite eclipsed by the freeing of the top pitch. The second pitch is loose and dangerous so it is best to abseil in just for the top pitch. Start about 10m right of the Fang at a jamming crack to the right of a green broken chimney.
1) 22m (4c). Climb the jamming crack for 24m and belay.
2) 32m (5a). Move left of the short pillar to a broken corner. Climb the corner to a big jammed boulder. Climb over this up a chimney. Exit out right up a slab and small holds on the right.
3) 46m (6b). Climb the corner with interest until forced right under a bulge. A series of sustained moves leads steeply to easier, though less well protected, climbing to the top.

176a Tractors of Desire * 85m E3 (5a, 5c, 5a/b)
M Kocsis, S Titt. 31/05/2008.
The main pitch offers the discerning climber the opportunity to enjoy jams from fingers through to arm bars. Opinions differ on the location of the crux. A double set of cams from 0.5 to 4 is recommended. A friend 5 or equivalent is handy (but doesn't go into the obvious slot). The climbing on the wall above the slot is very well positioned!
1) 20m (5a). The first pitch of Give Up to the grassy platform.
2) 35m (5c). In the back corner of the platform a right facing, undercut fist crack offers a burly introduction to the pitch. The line goes into and then out of the slot half way up the wall. Belay at the foot of the blocky chimney.
3) 30m (5a/b). Shimmy up the easy chimney, stepping right onto the sunny slab when you can. Follow the slab and corner, stepping right for the final few feet onto cleaner, rougher rock.

176b AD 43 ** 75m E5 (6b, 6a)
N Colton, M Kocsis. 01/06/2007.
Just left of Dark Forces are two corners capped by roofs. Start up the longer left-hand one.
1) 40m (6b). At the roof (friend 1.5) move right (crux) into another corner. Up this to a pedestal (possible belay). Climb diagonally left and up a series of steps passing a hard move to a spacious belay on the right wall of the gully.
2) 35m (6a). Climb up to the top of a small sharp arête then go up and right to a ledge. From here climb up and slightly right to sling runners. Step left to another ledge then up the flake crack system - exiting right to easier ground. Climb the pleasant crack above to the top.

177. Dark Forces *** 85m E3 (6a, 5c, 4c)
A Strapcans, G Jenkins, G Desroy. 28/8/1979.
About 35m right of the Fang there is a black towering groove with huge vegetated grooves on either side, the right-hand one capped by a triangular overhang. This very fine route takes the impressive central black groove.
1) 37m (6a). Climb the corner (possible stance at 12m) to a difficult bulge at 30m. Continue past a small overhang to a stance at a flake below the obvious black triangular overhang.
2) 30m (5c). Bridge around the overhang and jam the magnificent corner crack to the final roof. Follow the crack out left round the overhang onto the head wall to a belay in a sling on a large spike.
3) 18m (4c). Hand traverse left to a short groove which gives access to flakes leading up left to the top.

177a Men of Kernow * 80m E5 (5a, 6a, 6a/b)
P Donnithorne, J Jones (Last pitch with aid as 5c+A0). 21/05/2005.
S Villanueva, S McGowan (First Free Ascent). 06/09/2007.
The long slim corner just right of Dark Forces, capped by the huge triangular overhang. Well protected throughout but take 2 or 3 friend 2.5s for the last pitch. Start 5m right of Dark Forces.
1) 15m (5a). Climb the double cracked groove then trend up rightwards to belay on top of large blocks.
2) 45m (6a). Take the clean technical groove to a ledge on the right. Up the groove to a black roof. Move right to a flake in the next groove then move back up left to a possible belay on a foothold above the roof. Continue up the groove until it eases into a slab. Up this to a small ledge below the huge final corner.
3) 20m (6a/6b). Layback and jam to the roof then undercut rightwards to a big foothold (rest). Now delve deeply into the crack in the roof and wrestle with some deep jams to overcome the right edge of the roof and continue more easily to the top.

177b Landscapes of Light 85m ** E4 (5c, 5b, 6a)
N Colton, M Kocsis. 3/6/2006.
1) 25m (5c). Climb the groove/corner directly beneath the capping roof of Men of Kernow, about 8m right of the start of Men of Kernow. Good belay ledge. 2 pegs in-situ.
2) 35m (5b). Climb the corner, with only a minor deviation onto the right wall at some point: good honest toil! A great nut and friend belay just off to the left of the main line.
3) 25m (6a). Step back right into the crack and climb with conviction, with the crux just where it should be: at the top! Once past this, enjoy the final easy moves over the overhang, with 80m of air beneath your heels! 1 peg in-situ.

177c Supermassive Black Hole * 85m E3 (5c, 5c)
M Kocsis, N Colton. 12/08/2006.
To the right of Dark Forces is the obvious corner of Landscapes of Light; 20m right again, below a choked and vegetated chimney/crack line, is a pile of large boulders up against the cliff; 15m right again is an obvious hand sized crack in a short rib.Supermassive Black Hole starts up this and continues up the awesome looking groove above.
1) 35m (5c). Climb the crack in the rib, move right and up the continuation crack, step right again and up easy ground to the horizontal grass ledge. Pull left to a comfortable belay below a small flake overhang.
2) 50m (5c). Directly above the belay, surmount the flake on its left (crux). Follow the narrow slab above to the roof which is climbed using the crack on its left side and a jammed block on the lip. Continue up the groove system, passing another overhang, to the top.

The Terraces

This area runs from a high prow to a huge corner (ESP) just before the Cúchulainn col. It takes in the wall with the big overhang above the heathery ledges which give it its name.

The next three routes start near the prow.

178. The Artful Dodger ** 115m E2 (5a, 5a, 5b, 4b)
R Lawson, G Murray. 21/4/1984.
A fine combination of crack and face climbing with a superb first pitch. Start at the foot of a cracked groove which is about 2m around to the left of the wide crack mentioned in the Blockbuster start.
1) 23m (5a). Climb the groove for about 18m to an overhang. Step up and right and up to the first belay of Blockbuster.
2) 39m (5a). Climb the second pitch of Blockbuster. Move left on the ledge and across and down slightly for about 6m to the left-most ledge.
3) 33m (5b). Climb the groove and then the crack for 20m to a huge flake you can stand behind. (Straight up from here is Morphine and Chocolate.) Step down and traverse left for about 13m at first on square-cut ledges, then descending slightly via a swing and then an awkward step to reach a groove leading to a flat ledge. Climb up for 6m to a flake belay.
4) 20m (4b). Climb the slab and crack and move across left to finish up the wall 3m right of the big corner.

The third pitch of Blockbuster starts from a long narrow ledge. The following two routes start from this ledge and are easily accessed by abseiling from the top.

179. Morphine and Chocolate 40m E2 (5b/c)
A Wilson, A Moles. Summer 1997.
Abseil down to belay as for final pitch of Blockbuster. Start at the left side of the narrow ledge. Follow the obvious broken line until the wall steepens and the crack narrows. Climb crack to top (crux).

180. Chapter House 43m E4 (6a)
P McArthur, E Cooper. 21/9/97. (Still awaits a second ascent)
Abseil down to belay as for the final pitch of Blockbuster. Follow Blockbuster, but continue straight up to the overhang. Climb this using good holds to a narrow sloping ledge. Move delicately left, a metre or so, to a thin crack. Sustained climbing up this via some tricky moves leads to the top.

181. Blockbuster *** 91m E2 (5c, 4c, 5b)
R Lawson, T. Snaith. 30/5/1983.
A good route with an impressive final crack. The headwall on the left of the high prow is split by a leftward-trending crack. The route takes the crack and a series of grooves below. Below the crack at 30m height there is a rightward-facing corner with an inviting wide crack under it. Start at the first crack to the right of the wide crack.
1) 23m (5c). Climb the hand crack with some tricky moves at half height.
2) 33m (4c). Climb the corner above to an overlap at the start of the leftward-facing grooves. Climb this for about 10m and step left onto the ledge.
3) 35m (5b). Step back right into the groove. Climb this until it steepens and when about 5m below the overhang use small holds to swing steeply around the corner to the right, and a good spike. Several steep moves lead to the base of the slanting crack which is followed to the top.

182. Herbivore 105m HVS (5a)
P Watkin, L Ainsworth (Two aid points, Alternative leads). 6/1968.
D Knighton (First free ascent). 1968.
Rather loose and dirty, this route has not had a second ascent since it was freed. It takes the chimney immediately right of the prow. A grassy groove leads up to the chimney, start from the grassy ledge which is on the right at the foot of this groove.
1) 15m. Step left into the groove and climb until a move left can be made to a square ledge.
2) 30m. Step back into the groove and climb up the overhangs. Surmount these with difficulty (crux). Follow the groove to the large overhang. Pull out left and traverse left for 6m to a ledge.
3) 8m. Climb straight up over a doubtful block to a ledge by the base of the chimney.
4) 33m. Step right into the chimney and climb past various jammed blocks and up and over a final overhanging block by making a swing right onto a small ledge. Poor belay 3m higher.
5) 19m. Continue up the chimney until it is possible to move back under a large jammed block and continue to the top.

The next nine routes are reached via the heathery ledges which are approached from the right, at the point where the path from the col drops down to skirt the broken area. The lines are best viewed from the path below.

183. The Vandals ** 57m E2 (5c, 5b)
N Buckley, M Barrett. 28/8/1979.
A good route taking the pod about 15m right of the big prow. Scramble in to the start from the right.
1) 21m (5c). Climb the pod.
2) 36m (5b). Continue up the groove to the top.

184. Drag Race Queen * 60m E1 (5b, 5b)
T Ryan, K Higgs. 18/9/1977.
Climb leftwards on the heathery rock steps to reach the base of the groove which runs up left of the big overhang.
1) 42m (5b). Step left onto a good foothold and make a delicate move up the shallow groove to reach a deep groove. Climb the groove to the overhang (or climb the wall on the left) and move right and up onto good ledges to belay.
2) 18m (5b). Climb the bulge and wide crack (crux) to a ledge at 7m, easy climbing to the top.

185. Silent Running ** 42m E4 (5c)
E Cooper, S McCrory. 13/4/1986.
The arête on the right of Drag Race Queen gives serious but superb climbing. Start as for Drag Race Queen. Climb Drag Race Queen for about 10m (good No. 3 friend placement). Traverse right to a thin crack leading to a large flake. Gain the top of the flake from the right-hand side and continue up the arête to the top (some poor RPs half way up, large sling useful for the flake).

186. Aifric * 76m E2 (4c, 5c, 5c)
C Sheridan, C Torrans (Alternate leads). 12/4/1980.
After a scrappy start there are two good pitches, the middle one taking a long traverse under the huge overhang - unusual climbing for the Head. Start directly below the left end of the huge overhang at the foot of the shattered crack which slants right.
1) 26m (4c). Gain the crack and climb past a grass ledge to belay at the foot of the corner.
2) 35m (5c). Climb the corner crack to the overhang and traverse left. After 1m step down onto a narrow ledge which peters out. Make a delicate step past a bulge (crux) to a foothold out on the left and then to better holds which lead to the belay ledges.
3) 15m (5c). Climb the crack in the right wall (the corner is Drag Race Queen).

187. Easy Rider * 90m E2 (4c, 5b, 5b)
E Cooper, M Manson (Alternate leads). 16/2/1982.
An interesting route, mostly face climbing, with some fine positions. Start just left at Bates's Motel/Solid Mandala grooves at a short corner leading to an overhang.
1) 30m (4c). Climb the short corner to a ledge below the overhang. Surmount this and step right to a finger crack which is followed to where it meets the first pitch of Aifric. Step right to a thin crack and continue up to the stance in common with Aifric.
2) 30m (5b). Climb the corner of Aifric until a series of small ledges runs out left. Move delicately across these and step down to a lower ledge (crux). Continue across to a short groove. Climb this (hard) and up more easily to the belay of Drag Race Queen.
3) 30m (5b). Move left to an obvious ledge. Continue left across the groove and narrow ledges to a ledge above an obvious flake. Step left and finish up as for The Vandals.

Situated on the wall left of Bates's Motel is a huge overhang. On the head wall there are two crack lines, one at each side of the wall and the following two routes climb these. Abseil down to a semi-hanging belay on a small ledge just at the lip of the overhang. This is the belay for both routes (wires and small friends required for belay).

188. Fired Earth ** 25m E5 (6b)
E Cooper, P McArthur. 4/1994.
Climbs the left-hand crack (facing the crag). Abseil down to belay. Make a tricky traverse left until the bottom of the crack is reached (good peg). Follow the broken crack line, which curves rightward near the top.

Situated on the wall left of Bates's Motel is a huge overhang. On the head wall there are two crack lines, one at each side of the wall and the following two routes climb these. Abseil down to a semi-hanging belay on a small ledge just at the lip of the overhang. This is the belay for both routes (wires and small friends required for belay).

189. Birth Rite * 25m E5 (6a)
E Cooper, P Nolan. 5/1994.
Climbs the right-hand crack, which starts right above the belay. Abseil down as for the previous route. Climb the crack direct to the top. Slightly easier than Fired Earth, but less well protected.

190. Bates's Motel ** 66m E3 (5b, 5c, 5b)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 18/5/1980.
A good route but keep an eye out for Norman at the pod. Start as for Solid Mandala.
1) 24m (5b). Climb the groove to a short corner on the left (Solid Mandala goes right). From the top of the corner step left onto the arête. Continue up the wall for a metre and traverse right to the crack. Follow this to a belay below the pod. A sustained and strenuous pitch.
2) 30m (5c). Climb to the base of the pod and having got into it with difficulty exit left past a jammed block. The crack above leads to a scoop below the belay.
3) 12m (5b). As for Solid Mandala.

191. Solid Mandala ** 72m E3 (5c/6a, 6a, 5b, 5b)
C Torrans, C Sheridan (One aid point). 13/4/1980.
M Manson (First free ascent).
Great climbing with variety in every pitch. The first pitch is considered hard and awkward and the first pitch of Bates's Motel is often climbed instead. The line takes the arête and ramp on the left wall of the vegetated gully leading up to ESP. Start below some short broken grooves.
1) 24m (5c/6a). Climb the left groove for a few metres and traverse across right to the extreme right-hand groove. Climb this with difficulty and exit left. Continue up the crack close to the arête until a step left can be made to a small belay below the hanging pod.
2) 24m (6a). Step down and across to the arête and crack. Climb the crack to the foot of the ramp and corner. Continue up the ramp to a ledge.
3) 12m (5b). Up the layback crack above.
4) 12m (5b). Gain the huge flake and climb the crack above.

192. ESP 30m VS
R Hogan, P O'Leary, P Mc Dermott. 1967.
Loose and dangerous, a route to be avoided. Scramble up to the foot of the enormous corner with a wide crack/chimney at the back. (Rope advisable). Bridge up the chimney which becomes a gully.

Rathlin Wall

This section extends from the col to the area immediately around the Ballycastle Descent Gully. It is a popular area with a lot of fine climbs and easy access.

The grassy col which lies between a huge boulder and the cliff proper marks the start of four routes. Clontarf, which takes the wide chimney/crack on the left, Roaring Meg, a route which runs diagonally across the wall and takes a sloping ramp for its second pitch, Cúchulainn, the major line of weakness running up left and crossing Roaring Meg, and finally Viking, the big chimney corner on the right.

193. Clontarf 100m E3 (5a, 5c, 5c)
J Barry, P Littlejohn, E Cooper. 28/5/1984.
A brutish route taking the big offwidth crack, better than it looks but not too well protected. Start about 18m left of the huge boulder at the foot of a big open corner.
1) 20m (5a). Climb a broken groove and bulge to a stance.
2) 36m (5c). Climb the offwidth crack - past a couple of chockstones and through a squeeze chimney - to a stance below the big roof.
3) 44m (5c). Continue through the roof (hard) and climb the nasty wee chimney above (harder) and then the easier broken ground to the final chimney which is wide enough to enjoy.

194. Roaring Meg ** 100m VS (5a, 4b, 4a)
C Torrans, J Magennis. 9/1975.
A good route with an excellent first pitch though the finish is a bit scrappy. It takes the rightward-slanting crack which starts 3m left of Cúchulainn.
1) 35m (5a). Climb the crack passing the overhang on the left.
2) 35m (4b). Climb the crack to reach the ramp on the right. This goes easily until the crack narrows and steepens giving an awkward move before the belay.
3) 30m (4a). Climb the corner and across the long narrow shelf to reach the final corner which should be climbed with care.

194a Faerie Stories *** 90m E6/7 (6b, 6b)
A Marshall, R Bell. 30/06/2008.
A magical line that takes the hanging open book corner left of Cúchulainn.
1) 50m (6b). Climb Roaring Meg for 15m. Move up and left into the groove below the hanging open book corner. Small holds and poor gear leads up to the bottom of the corner. From this point sustained bridging and a bit of mischief (crux) leaves you at the top of the corner on a sloping ledge, move right and up into Cúclulainn and belay below a fang.
2) 40m (6b). From the fang move right and up to a jug on the arête. Make a tricky move right across the face into the obvious corner system of Death or Glory. Finish up this and follow flat holds happily ever after.

195. Cúchulainn *** 77m E2 (5b, 5c, 5c)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 22/10/1977.
A powerful line giving high quality climbing at the top end of E2. Start at the foot of the crack left of Viking.
1) 33m (5b). Climb the crack until a move left can be made onto small ledges, then up and back into the crack (difficult). Continue up the crack (sustained) to reach a recess and a short offwidth crack. Gain the sloping edge above. Continue up the crack to belay on large flakes (as for Roaring Meg).
2) 21m (5c). Gain the ramp above the belay. Move back left into the corner and crack. Climb the crack to the overhang and move out left over this to reach a small shelf - good jamming. Climb a few feet to reach a thin crack with a groove on the right. Bridge up the crack and groove to reach another overhang. Climb this on good jams to reach yet another small shelf. Belay below an undercut offwidth crack.
3) 23m (5c). Climb on up to the jammed block (strenuous) and continue up the crack with increasing difficulty to a ledge at the foot of a grassy groove which leads to the top.

The following two routes start from a belay halfway up the ramp of Roaring Meg.

196. Death or Glory *** 40m E4 (6a)
E Cooper, A Moles. Spring 1992. (Still awaits a second ascent).
Takes the hanging corner high on the headwall right of Cúchulainn. Belay on the ramp of Roaring Meg. Gain the hanging corner from the right by a crack and a flaky traverse, which gets gradually easier. Make a couple of moves up the corner to a splendid wire placement and continue with interest until a roof blocks the way. Difficult moves over this allow a standing position to be gained on the ledge to the right. Gain the curving ramp above (exciting) and follow the thin crack from its right end to the top.

197. London Calling ** 40m E5 (6a/b)
E Cooper, R Brown. Spring 1992.
An exciting varied pitch up the impending wall right of Cúchulainn. Belay on the ramp of Roaring Meg. Follow this to where it steepens at a wide crack. Reach left onto the wall to a good flat hold (good 0.5 friend in the crack to the left). From this hold go up and left to gain a niche. Good holds on the wall above lead to a shallow left facing groove. By a difficult move gain an undercut flake and the break above. A crack then leads to the top with sustained interest.

198. Viking 73m HVS (4c, 5a, 5a)
R Green, D Chambers. 1971.
This is a big boulder-choked chimney on the right of the bay. An unattractive and rarely climbed route.
1) 15m (4c). Climb the awkward chimney.
2) 18m (5a). Climb the chimney above using a foothold on the right to negotiate the bottleneck and continue to where the angle eases and a steep slab is reached. Cross 6m of broken rock and grass to the belay.
3) 40m (5a). Climb the obvious muddy groove through broken material to reach the corner. Climb the overhang above to gain a murky groove. Loose rock, etc, to the top.

The path drops down from the col and skirts a massive boulder which lies up against the cliff. The next two routes are on the front of this.

199. Little Martha 35m S (4b)
I Rea, M Rea. 27/5/1984.
The groove left of the cracks. Climb the groove and move left around two overhangs, then up to exit left to some grass, step right onto the slab which is followed to the top.

200. Drowsy Maggie 36m S (4a)
J Magennis, K Lindsay. 11/10/1975.
A pleasant line taking the cracks on the front of the buttress. Climb the cracks passing two overhangs. The next three routes are situated above and behind the boulder of Drowsy Maggie. A prominent groove and crack line with a huge niche takes the right-hand side (Cinnabar). The deep recess to the right is Puritan.

201. Buttons and Bows *** 50m E4 (6a, 5b)
C Torrans, R Fenlon. 5/6/1988.
Two exciting pitches, delicate face climbing followed by a juggy overhang. Start just left of the small col at the V-groove with a small ledge at its base.
1) 30m (6a). Make one move up the groove and step right onto the wall. Climb the wall to an undercut hold (poor zero friend placement and No. 4 rock). Move up and left to the groove and shelf, climb the groove to another small ledge (No. 1 friend placement on the left and No. 4 RP above the groove). Move down and traverse right on good edges to the thin crack. Climb this to good locks higher up. Belay on the small ledge below the niche.
2) 20m (5b). Gain the niche above and climb up to an angular block below the overhangs (No. 9 rock). Bridge up past the block to reach big flat holds and traverse left across the overhang to a ledge at the base of the corner. Finish up the corner.

201a Spirited Away *** 35m E6 (6a)
R Bell, P Swail. 2/07/2006.
An awesome bold line guaranteed to put manners on the most confident of individuals. Start 5m down and right of Buttons and Bows below a sloping ledge. Mantel the ledge and confidently teeter rightwards up the obvious ramp. Sky hook and poor sling at 8m. With confidence destroyed move up towards the arête then back left to a good peanut 3, then up to join the base of the crack of Buttons and Bows. (Bring a few sky hooks)

202. Cinnabar * 45m E2 (5c)
C Sheridan, T Ryan. 6/6/1988.
Pleasant varied climbing up the prominent groove and cracks on the right side of the slabby wall. Start at the foot of the right-facing corner below the niche. Climb the wide crack until a traverse right can be made below the overhang to reach another crack. Climb the overlap and continue up the crack which eases into a groove. Easier climbing leads to the steep cracks of the headwall. Climb up to the traverse line and make a few thin moves rightwards before the final awkward pull up onto the ledge.

203. Candy Kisses *** 50m E4 (6a, 6a)
C Torrans, C O'Cofaigh. 9/1988.
A good route giving varied climbing up the steep corner just left of the arête and finishing up the steep wall on the right. Approach as for Cinnabar. Start at the bottom of the arête below the steep right-facing corner.
1) 30m (6a). Climb the corner to a groove. Enter the groove from the left by stepping off the small pinnacle and rocking over on a sloping foothold to reach a good finger crack. Climb the groove until it is possible to step right onto holds on the right and continue up the twin cracks to belay on the slab.
2) 20m (6a). Climb the deep groove above and move right onto a huge jug on the arête. Climb a series of ledges to reach a hole in the wall (No. 3 or 4 friend). From the hole move up and right to a small sloping V-groove (small wires, RPs) and small edges on the right. Finish straight up on better holds.

The dark box-shaped recess behind and to the right of the buttress has just one rarely-climbed route. Access is from the left.

204. Puritan 54m E2 (5c, 4b)
K Higgs, T Ryan. 27/3/1977.
The crack line at the back of the recess.
1) 42m (5c). Climb the awkward corner to a sloping ledge at 12m. Continue up the corner with increasing difficulty to gain a small stance below an overhang. To pass the overhang move up the groove a few metres, then move out left and climb the wall on large flake holds (handle with care). Follow the obvious groove above to a ledge and belay.
2) 12m (4b). Pull over the small bulge and up the corner until it is possible to traverse left. Scramble easily to the top.

204a Tír na nÓg 35m. E6 6a
D Lyons Ewing, A Moles 16/May/2014
Amazing, serious climbing up the arête between Puritan and Reilig.
Step onto the right side of the arête from the large boulder and make difficult moves until gear is eventually reached at 9m on the right. Continue up the arête with adequate, spaced gear until one final tricky move leads to easier ground. Take care on the slightly suspect rock on the final 5m.

Above and right of the buttress there is a vegetated offwidth, Muck Savage.

The next 4 climbs are in an area known locally as Pigeons' Cove. They start at a big grassy ledge at half height which can be reached by a 36m abseil from excavated boulders just beyond the big boulder which marks the top of Talking Heads.

204b Reilig 35m E3 (5c)
C Sheridan, C Torrans. 26/5/2007.
Start at the middle of the big ledge at the crack on the left side of the huge triangular overhang (The variation start takes the corner crack on the right). Climb the crack until forced to make a hard move right to gain the finger crack running up from the lip of the overhang. A few layback moves lead to a niche and a step groove which is climbed to reach the easy ledges below the clean corner. Climb the corner to the overhang, make a hard move up right (crux) and follow the wide crack (3 or 3 1/2 friend) to where a final awkward move gives access to the big crumbly ledge on the left. Step left and finish up the cracked wall.
Variation start (5b) - Climb the corner crack on the right to the big roof. Good jams take you out left the the finger crack.

204c XL 35m E4 (6a)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 9/06/2007.
This route takes the crackline which starts up the groove at the right-hand edge of the bay (same start as for the 2nd pitch of Stop Making Sense).
Climb the thin groove to a ledge and then follow the steep sustained crack (crux) to reach faint ledges on the right (some suspect rock on the left at this point). Climb the heavily fractured wall (friends in horizontal break) and move up to the big hole above (No. 3 1/2 friend) before traversing back left to gain the finishing crack.

Variation start E4 (6a)
P Swail, E Barbour. 1/10/2007.
Start under the overhang in the corner just left of XL. Climb the corner as for Reilig then traverse right to join XL. Much harder than the original start.

204d Waist Deep in Alligators *** 100m E4 (5b, 5c/6a, 6a)
C Torrans (2 and 3), C Sheridan (1). 25/6/06.
1) (5b). Climb the crack just right of Viking to belay at the ledges running right.
2) (5c/6a). Traverse out to the arête (2 poor pegs) and climb this to the slab above, move up and left to a belay (No. 3 friend at belay).
3) (6a). Continue up the slab, No. 3/3.5 friend in a slot at the bottom of the dirty groove above, move right and climb up to the overhang where the expanding crack takes a friend and a good small wire goes in above, traverse right to a good undercut and a poor peg, step down on to a good hold on the lip of the overhang and traverse right to the groove (No. 1 RP) climb up to the corner and good pro. Climb the corner until it is possible to step on to a sloping foothold on the right, continue up on edges and the arête to a block, up and over this to the right to reach the corner of Buttons and Bows, belay here or continue to top.

204e Lochlannach 70m E3 (5c, 5c, 6a)
C Sheridan (1 and 2), C Torrans (3). May 2007.
An interesting route with varied climbing. The last short hard pitch could be avoided by finishing up Roaring Meg . Start as for Waist Deep In Alligators in the grassy bay to the right of Cuchullain beside the chimney of Viking.
1) 35m (5b). Climb the crack (tricky towards the top) and belay on the slab above
2) 20m (5c). Step across left to gain the steep crack running up to a rightfacing corner.
Good jamming brings you up to the belay on the big ledge of Roaring Meg.
3) 15m (6a). Climb the short corner of Roaring Meg and then take the line of weakness up the headwall directly above - a left facing corner running up an overhang. Make awkward jamming and chimneying moves up the bulge and reach up and left to fingerlocks and the finishing flakes. Small friends useful. Has also been climbed finishing up right.

205. Stop Making Sense ** 50m E5 (6a, 6b)
E Cooper, A Moles, R. Brown. Early 90s. (Still awaits a second ascent).
Contrasting pitches give memorable climbing up the wall left of Talking Heads.
1) 25m (6a). Scramble up Muck Savage until it is possible to step left into a short groove. Bridge up this to the top and move left via a good hold on the arête and up to a ledge, a spike runner and large friend placements. Bold climbing leads up and left to a series of blind grooves (good nut runner at a jammed block in the chimney bounding the buttress on the left). These are followed until it is possible to step left and down to a huge belay platform. A committing pitch.
2) 25m (6b). Climb the thin crack to an excellent runner placement level with a narrow overlap on the right. Traverse right just under this to a crack. When this closes, make some hard moves to gain a series of narrow ledges leading to a break in the left side of the long roof. The sustained groove is followed by some thin cracks, which are climbed until a break left. Follow this break to a groove which leads easily to the top.

206. Talking Heads ** 45m E4 (6a, 5b)
M Manson, S Reid. 9/8/1984.
Very good climbing with two contrasting pitches up the wall and dark groove left of Muck Savage, low in the grade. It is best to abseil into Muck Savage to a point below the groove (big friends for the belay).
1) 20m (6a). From the belay step left and up onto the wall. After two moves step right onto a foot ledge. Climb the wall with sustained difficulty to reach the bottom of the groove and a good foothold (rest). Continue up the unrelenting groove (slightly easier) and exit on good holds. Follow the crack for a few metres to belay at a large flake.
2) 25m (5b). Follow the elegant thin finger crack onto a ledge below the top and finish slightly right.

207. Muck Savage 74m HVS (4c, 5a, 4b)
D Richardson, J McKenzie (One aid point). 27/9/74.
A grassy offwidth giving a rather loose and unattractive route which is rarely done.
1) 30m (5b). Climb up to the overhang at 10m and pass it on the left (difficult). Continue up to belay at the foot of the chimney.
2) 20m (5b). Climb the wall until the chimney can be entered. Continue up the chimney to a chockstone (peg for aid) then on good jugs to the belay.
3) 24m (4b). Climb the ramp and corner to the top.

Below and to the left of the vegetated offwidth (Muck Savage) a huge leaning buttress forms a cave and the path drops down to skirt the buttress.

To the right of Muck Savage there is a narrow curved wall and then the more extensive Cool Hand Luke wall which is bounded on the right by the huge corner of Conchubair.

208. Licence to Kill ** 65m E4 (5c, 5c)
E Cooper, C Cartwright. 6/1986.
A serious route giving exhilarating climbing on the left arête of Cool Hand Luke.
1) 35m (5c). Scramble easily up blocks to an overhang at the base of the arête. Turn this on the right (difficult) and continue up the wall bearing left to a small ledge and two poor peg runners. Move right and climb the wall until it is possible to move leftwards. Continue to where the arête steepens (hammered small wire). Follow the arête and then a shallow groove veering left to a ledge to belay.
2) 30m (5c). Traverse right and make a hard move to reach a groove. Climb this until an obvious traverse line leads rightwards under a bulge. Climb the bulge from the right and continue up a slab to a small ledge. From here swing right and climb the crack to the top.

209. Cool Hand Luke * 65m E2 (5c, 5b, 4b)
K Higgs, S Gallwey. 3/4/1982.
An interesting varied route on the wall left of the Conchubair corner. Start below a groove at the left side of the wall.
1) 28m (5c). Climb the groove until it is possible to step right onto a delicate ramp. Climb directly up the wall above (just to the right of a flake crack) to a small ledge. Move right for 2m and climb the wall to a crack with a downward-pointing spike. Continue up the crack to a good belay ledge.
2) 25m (5b). Move left along the ledge and climb to a pillar which leads to the arête. Step down left off the pillar and traverse delicately left to a groove. Climb this (bold) to a small ledge, step right onto a slab (committing) and make a few thin moves to reach better holds. Finish up another short slab and belay in a corner.
3) 12m (4b). Climb the corner (Muck Savage) to the top.

210. The Hustler *** 58m E3 (5c, 5c/6a)
E Cooper, J McDonald. 7/6/1986.
Brilliant airy climbing. It takes a fairly direct line up from the first belay of Cool Hand Luke on the wall left of Conchubair.
1) 28m (5c). As for Cool Hand Luke.
2) 30m (5c/6a). Climb the wall directly above the belay to a small sloping ledge on the arête just below a short steep groove. Move left, then back right into the groove (or climb the groove direct at 6b) and follow the crack to the top.

211. Conchubair *** 58m E2 (5a, 5c)
K Higgs, T Ryan (Alternate leads). 13/4/1980.
An intimidating route giving good sustained climbing up a large open-book corner with an overhanging headwall. Scramble up to the base of the corner from the left.
1) 25m (5a). Climb the corner to a ledge on the left and belay (semi-hanging) in the corner crack on good footholds, just above the small ledge.
2) 33m (5c). Continue up the corner with increasing difficulty to a resting place near the top. Move left on a good foothold to a thin crack. Climb this to the overhang (crux). Climb the overhang on good holds to a V chimney. Up this exiting left near the top.

212. The Mask *** 80m E5 (6a, 6a)
E Cooper, R Brown, A Moles. Spring 1990.
A magnificent exposed face climb with protection, which should ensure its popularity. A 'must do' route for everyone who climbs at the grade.
1) 45m (6a). Climb the first pitch of Conchubair for about 10m until an obvious line of narrow ledges and flakes leads across the right wall to the arête (exposed). Grooves are followed with difficulty at first to good belay ledges.
2) 35m (6a). Gain a flake and then the arête itself, which is climbed via a groove then a crack to some fingery moves where it closes to reach a good hold. Continue up the wall above to a narrow ledge and a thin crack, which is taken to reach the top.

The main feature of the next wall is the stepped overhang of Flying Lizards at half height.

213. Face Value *** 80m E4 (6a, 6a)
E Cooper, S McCrory. 6/1986.
Sensational climbing up the wall leading directly to the overhang of Flying Lizards and finishing as for this route. Start directly below the crack which is in line with the crack running through the overhang.
1) 40m (6a). Scramble in from the left over grass and blocks to a roof and thin crack. Climb the crack to a rocking jug and continue up to the recess (No. 3 Friend). Climb this and the thin cracks above until forced out right onto a small shelf. From here move up and left and continue up to belay on good footholds beneath the roof.
2) 40m (6a). As for Flying Lizards.

214. Flying Lizards * 80m E3 (5b, 6a)
K Murphy, T Ryan. 7/8/1982. K Murphy (First free ascent)
An excellent route, the overhang is easier for the tall but they get their come-uppance at the groove. The route climbs the wall left of the huge overhang and cuts through the 1m deep overhang which runs across this wall at about half height. The first pitch takes the corner which runs up to the right end of this overhang. Start below the corner.
1) 40m (5b). Climb over blocks and move left to the bottom of the thin groove. Climb this to ledges. Climb the corner to belay on a sloping ledge.
2) 40m (6a). Traverse left for about 5m and climb the wall to the overhang and short corner on the left. Climb the overhang with a long reach for a good jug, then step right for a rest and runners, before trending back left to reach a groove which is gained with difficulty. Climb this to a second band of overhangs which are negotiated with good jugs first on the right, then on the left. Easier climbing to the top.

215. Smashing Pumpkins * 85m E6 (5c, 6a)
E Cooper, A Moles. Spring 1992. (Still awaits a second ascent)
This route takes the wall right of Flying Lizards.
1) 40m (5c). Climb the arête right of the first pitch of Flying Lizards to belay where it ends. Small wires for protection. (This pitch would make a much better start to Flying Lizards than the groove).
2) 40m (6a). Step right and surmount a bulge, gaining a thin crack with difficulty. Lace it and continue to a narrow ledge. From a standing position on this, traverse left and up on undercuts to reasonable sidepulls and 'thank god' runner placements. A couple more hard moves and the easier groove above is reached. Follow this and undercut left through the roof to join Flying Lizards. Leave this after about 7m and traverse right and up to a thin crack, which leads with difficulty to good holds and the top. A serious pitch.

215a Full of Energy, Ready 2 Party 68m, E5 6a
Paul Swail, John Orr 2014
Start about 4m left of the Stoat on a large block.
1. 25m. 5c. Step off the block and climb up and right until below a small overlap. From here gain the base of a corner above before making moves onto the left wall. climb cracked wall for 3m before stepping right back into the corner and onto a small ledge. Make delicate moves back left and up to belay on a good ledge.
2. 20m. 5b. Walk right along the clean ledge until it ends. Climb direct to gain the base of a dark left facing corner. Enter and enjoy some wonderful and funky moves. Belay on a sloping ledge just right of the top of the corner (lots of small gear).
3. 23m. 6a. Climb left off the belay and makes moves above a small roof to gain some small spooky crimpy edges. Delicate moves take you up to a large overlap. Climb a short right facing niche passing a peg runner to gain a finger crack. Climb lightly up and slightly left for about 10m. Arrange gear and make some technical moves onto the right wall to pass through a small cracked roof/ overlap and the top.

216. The Stoat ** 66m E2 (5a, 5c)
J McKenzie, D Byrne. 30/7/1983.
The left-facing corner and crack. Good climbing despite the vegetation.
1) 34m (5a). Climb the corner crack to belay in a recess below the steep blackish groove, or (better) continue up the corner for a further 10m and belay on good footholds just below the next black section.
2) 32m (5c). Climb the groove facing right, difficult, to a good handhold on the right. Step left onto the slab and up into a groove. Bridge out of the groove to a large spike and crack which continues to the top.

217. Heaven Can Wait ** 66m E4 (6a, 6a)
E Cooper, A Moles. Spring 1992.
The route takes the obvious left-hand corner/groove right of The Stoat, which is capped by a massive roof.
1) 24m (6a). Climb up the easy slab beneath the groove to a steep corner. Up the corner, strenuous and sustained, to a sloping ledge at 10m. Move upwards by a series of ledges, then enjoyably up the corner to belay on a small triangular ledge just above some flakes on the left wall.
2) 42m (6a). Follow the corner until just below the roof. Move left onto the wall and climb this diagonally leftwards to gain an overhanging groove. Move up this, spectacular, until undercuts lead left to a short strenuous corner, which leads to a good foothold on the arête (crux). Move up the crack in the slab until forced right at a small roof to a corner, which leads easily to the top.

218. Promised Land *** 60m E4 (6a, 5b)
E Cooper, A Moles. Spring 1992.
The intimidating groove leading to the right end of the huge roof of Heaven Can Wait gives one of the best pitches at Fair Head. Gain a good belay under an overhang at the bottom left of the groove proper, by easy climbing from the right.
1) 45m (6a). Follow the twin grooves to a ledge. Surmount this and continue with increasing exposure until a large foothold on the arête can be gained. Relax, then enjoy the final technical moves which lead to a good small belay ledge.
2) 15m (5b). Climb the thin crack above until forced left, Continue more easily to the top.

To the right of The Stoat the two grooves of Heaven Can Wait and Promised Land run up to a huge overhang high on the face and the next feature is a fine compact wall with a big corner on its right (Blind Pew). As the path rises and passes the huge flat boulder a little further along, the curving crack line of Salango and the enormous corner of Equinox are unmistakable.

219. Primal Scream *** 60m E6 (5b, 6a/b)
E Cooper, A Moles. Spring 1992.
A beautiful, serious pitch up the centre of the upper half of the Blind Pew wall.
1) 24m (5b). Climb the first pitch of Blind Pew.
2) 36m (6a/b). From the belay ledge traverse left to a peg. Follow the obvious line (runners are poor and difficult to see on ascent - better runners after about 20m) to a small ledge, from here gain a blind flake above (crux) and continue more easily with improving runners to a horizontal break. From the horizontal break, take the left hand right-trending crack to the top.

219a The Complete Scream *** 58m E8 (6b)
R Bell, A Moles. (Headpoint). 20/08/2005.
Start 5m left of the corner beside Blind Pew. Climb from the ground straight up to the left edge of the traverse on Primal Scream. Finish up Primal Scream. Bring duck tape.

220. Blind Pew ** 60m E2 (5b, 5b)
K Higgs, E Goulding. 28/10/1978.
A very popular route. The second pitch gives excellent bridging and a good finger crack.
1) 27m (5b). Climb straight up the corner to a belay ledge, or at 5a climb the corner for 4m and move left to the groove. Climb the groove to an offwidth crack, follow this to a belay ledge.
2) 33m (5b). Climb the leaning corner above (holds improve after 9m) to a delicate scoop. Climb this to the base of two grooves, step right into the right-hand groove and climb this with increasing difficulty to the top.

221. End Game *** 40m E5 (6a)
E Cooper, P McArthur. 24/5/97.
Climb the left arête of Mizen Star and then move up right to a good rest. Make hard moves slightly leftward finishing up an easier groove to the belay of Mizen Star.

222. Mizen Star *** 60m E2 (5b, 5b)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 3/9/1977.
An excellent varied route with a bold second pitch. It takes the crack which splits the wall to the right of Blind Pew. Start at the foot of the arête on the left of the wall.
1) 39m (5b). From the bottom of the arête climb the short groove and crack to reach a light brown flake. Make a hard move up the flake to reach good jugs. Move right to the base of the crack. Sustained jamming up the crack to the overhang. Climb the overhang on a good jug on the right. Continue up the crack with difficulty to reach a narrow ledge. Move left to a good belay.
2) 21m (5b). Step left and climb the arete on flat edges, before making bold moves right to gain the groove. Climb the groove to an overhang with a chockstone. Pass this on the left to reach the crack and climb this to finish up easy but doubtful-looking rock.

A popular 3 pitch variation which can be done in either direction is to:
1) Climb the first pitch of Mizen Star.
2) 10m (4b). Traverse left around the arête and down to the belay of Blind Pew.
3) Climb the second pitch of Blind Pew.
This is good to know if you don't fancy the second pitch of Mizen Star, but is a good variation in it's own right to get the best of both routes.

223. Titanic *** 53m E2 (5b, 5c)
K Higgs, T Ryan. (Two aid points, Alternate leads). 22/10/1977.
P Livesey, C Torrans (First free ascent). 1977.
Hard steep climbing with a technical crack to finish. Just left of the Salango arête a groove runs into a deep crack with a bulge just above half height.
1) 21m (5b). Climb the deep groove - delicate moves at 8m. Continue up over a small bulge and then more easily to a steep finger crack. Climb this to a ledge out on the left.
2) 32m (5c). Step back right and climb the steep crack to a resting place below the bulge which is now an overhang. Climb this (crux, friend 5 useful) and gain a sharp crack. Up the crack to a ledge. Continue up the crack to reach a rocking chockstone. There follows some difficult climbing to reach good footholds on the left. Continue over a bulge on a good hold to a ledge and finish up a short steep crack.

224. Maiden Voyage ** 60m E5 (6b, 6a)
E Cooper, P McArthur. Spring 1997.
1) 39m (6a). Climb the fine thin cracks just left of the right arête of the groove of Titanic. Finish up the arête to belay as for Salango.
2) 21m (6a). Climb the obvious flakes leading to Titanic which is joined above the roof and finish up its final crack.

225. Salango *** 60m E3 (5b, 5c)
C Torrans, C Sheridan, J Tasker (Two aid points). 21/11/1976.
P Livesey, K Higgs (First free ascent). 1977.
A compelling line which takes the cracked arête 15m left of Equinox. Start from the top of the large boulder which forms an overhang beside the path.
1) 36m (5b). Easy climbing up the groove to an awkward step up left to reach a sloping ledge under the overhang. Climb the overhang on good jams to reach a finger crack, up this with difficulty to belay under another overhang.
2) 24m (5c). Climb the overhang - difficult - to reach a steep strenuous crack, up the crack (crux) to a groove. Climb the groove to an overhanging flake and make a difficult and sensational layaway over the overhang to reach good jugs and the top.

226. The Fame Game ** 60m E4 (5b, 6a)
J Codling, M Manson. 8/1983.
The first ascensionists pre-placed protection which was removed by K Murphy on abseil before he did the second ascent.
The corner groove line between Equinox and the cracked arête on the left. The top pitch gives excellent climbing and it is strongly recommended that it be combined with Hughie Green, instead of the scrappy first pitch to give a very fine climb. A full rack of friends is useful. Start as for Salango (the loose grassy scramble leading to the start might best be avoided by an abseil).
1) 37m (5b). Climb the grass-filled cracks to the base of the corner.
2) 23m (6a). Climb the corner passing the overhang on the right.

227. Hughie Green ** 36m E3 (5c)'
N Grimes, A Moles (One aid point). 5/1991.
P Dunlop (First free ascent).
This is an obvious and much more attractive first pitch to The Fame Game. Climb the crack in the face to the right of the original start.

228. Equinox *** 58m E2 (5b, 5b)
P McHugh, S Billane (Two aid points). 27/3/1970.
C Torrans, C Sheridan (First free ascent). 1977.
This is a huge corner immediately left of The Wall of Prey overhangs, with an overhang at three-quarters height. It is a magnificent route and the seepage at the black crack needn't deter you as it can be avoided. Often done as a single pitch.
1) 37m (5b). Climb the corner to the overhang with sustained bridging and jamming (slightly harder at the black crack at 12m). Climb the overhang to a small stance.
2) 21m (5b). Continue up the corner to a bulge and move through this to good jugs which lead to the top.

228a A Bad Skin Day *** 20m E7 (6c)
R Bell, A Marshall (Headpoint). 31/5/2006.
An intimidating line that climbs the wall right of Equinox. Traverse right from the belay of Equinox to a questionable peg. Keep going towards the arête until you're all by yourself, then small holds lead to a big crimp and another peg. Happy days! Make big moves up the white streak moving right to the top.

228b The Big Skin *** 58m E8 (6c)
R Bell, D Farquhar (Headpoint). 5/4/2009.
The wall right of Equinox continuing into A Bad Skin Day. Climb Equinox for 3m then out right to a pedestal below the green wall above. Head for a jug near the arête (Big cam and small wire). Climb the groove and overlap above (crux) then the green wall to a hollow flake about half height. Finish up A Bad Skin Day.

Ballycastle Descent Gully - East

The most impressive feature at this end of the crag is the wall with the enormous overhangs. The groove at its right-hand side is Hell's Kitchen.

228c The Rathlin Effect *** 65m E8 (6c)
R. Bell, A.Moles. 14/5/11.
The beautiful prow of the Rathlin Wall. Start up the corner to the left of The Wall of Prey. A line of crimps lead across the top of the lichen wall and up to a triangular niche. Small nuts and good No.1 cam. Climb diagonally up and left to a hanging block with a letter box above. Swing up into the niche and climb the groove system on the arête in a spectacular situation. Move right around the last roof at an old rusty peg and then straight up past a very exposed boulder problem. The big foot ledge 8m below the top of the crag is a nice place to take a moment. Finish up the arête.

229. Above and Beyond *** 80m E6 (6b, 6b)
P Littlejohn, E Cooper. 28/5/1984.
This route climbs the superb face left of the upper reaches of The Wall of Prey. Bold, strenuous wall climbing of the highest calibre. The runners are mainly small wires.
1) 36m (6b). As for The Wall of Prey.
2) 44m (6b). Step left onto a narrow ledge, move left and up from this to a good hold. Make a rising traverse to the left for 10m until hard moves lead to a sloping ledge below a steep wall. Peg runner (not great). Climb the steep wall above, to a ledge beneath the final groove. Move right and up into the finial groove to gain good finishing holds.

229a. Above and Beyond and Back ** 50m E6 6b
B Hall (onsight) June 2014 Not a new route as such but an independent and fierce finish to Above and Beyond. Climb Above and Beyond to the peg. Get established on the steep wall above but instead of climbing to the ledge go on a rising rightwards traverse toward the next groove over, passing some worrying hollow holds (slings). A very committing rockover rightwards deposits you on a mossy sloping ledge and the base of the groove. Climb the groove until is runs out ( finger sized cam on right). Hard moves up and left lead to one final boulder move just below the top of the crag.

230. The Wall of Prey *** 75m E5 (6b, 5c)
A Strapcans, G Jenkins. 31/8/1979. (E4, 6a, 5c).
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 1996. (Climbed following rockfall)
A commanding route taking a line up the huge wall left of Hell's Kitchen passing the overhangs on the right of the largest one. Two grooves run up to the large square-cut overhang. Start below the right-hand one which forks as it nears the overhang.
1) 36m (6b). Climb the groove until it is possible to gain a thin crack in the right arête. Continue up to the overhang past a peg runner. Climb the overhang on the right at a small jammed block, gain the groove above and move right to flake belays.
2) 29m (5c). Climb the right-hand crack, stepping into the left one for a few moves until you are forced back right. Climb the bulge above until sloping holds give access to the top.

Direct Start *** 36m E5 (6b)
E Cooper, P McArthur. 1998.
Gain the ledge on top of the pinnacle which leans against the cliff just right of the normal start. From its left end some technical wall climbing brings you to a committing move onto the arête. This is then followed to join the normal route.

230a Below and Behold 65m. E7 6c
Ricky Bell 12/Jul/2008

A massive pitch with a very wild move, moving out left from above The Wall of Prey crux to finish up Above and Beyond.

230b Once You Go Black You Never Go Back *** 35m E7 (6c)
S Villanueva, S McGowan. 4/06/2011.
A direct start to Where the Grass is Green. From the belay on The Wall Of Prey traverse left until you're below the overhang of black rock. Climb straight up the overhang and into the groove above which will bring you back onto Where the Grass is Green.

230c' Where the Grass is Green *** 35m E7 (6c)
R Bell, R Druce (Headpoint). 23/07/2007.
A pumpy line in a spectacular position. Start up the second pitch of The Wall of Prey to a slopey stance at 5m. Traverse left on slopy holds with your feet just above the buldge to a rest at the top of the steep dark rock. Make hard moves straight up the green wall to a sloper then up and left to a stance on a pedestal. A line of holds above lead out right to below a small roof and an airy finish.

230d Way of the Jive Monkeys *** 36m E6 (6b)
R Bell, E Barbour. 13/08/2006.
A bold route at the top end of its grade. From the belay of The Wall of Prey climb 3m up the groove then step down and right into an obvious corner. Arrange as much gear as possible then jive your way round the corner onto the face. Follow small holds up to a hard move right for a sloping ramp below a huge triangle in the wall above. A poor runner at the top of the ramp and some thoughtful moves past a wobbly jug lead to a good rest and good wires. Layback the crack above until a delicate move can be made onto the sloping ledge out left and welcome jugs above.

230e Mr Blobby Superman *** 65m E7 (6c)
R Bell. 12/07/2008.
A long route with a wild move in the middle. Climb The Wall of Prey to below the highest roof. Traverse left on the face at first, then undercut the roof to its end (good medium nut). Move up to a good rest just to the right of the corner. Climb back across the corner and crimp across the face to a wild move for a big jug in the middle of the green wall. Continue directly up the wall to the peg on Above and Beyond and follow this to the top.

231. Taming the Tiger 65m E6 (6b)
E Cooper, A Wilson. 1999.
Starts as for The Wall of Prey Direct. From the right end of the ledge on top of the pinnacle make a difficult series of moves to reach better holds and a crack leading to the left of the roof on Phil. Where the crack runs out traverse right with difficulty to join Phil. Finish as for Phil.

232. Phil ** 70m E5 (4c, 6b, 5c)
D O'Sullivan, J Dugdale (One aid point). 9/1992.
A brilliant looking route taking the much eyed line right of The Wall of Prey. Start about 6m right of The Wall of Prey at the base of a rock rib.
1) 8m (4c). Climb the rib for about 6m until it's possible to traverse left to a belay stance on an enormous block.
2) 26m (6b). Traverse up and right to gain the obvious orange crack/groove leading to the band of overhangs (this is bold to half-height). A good undercut under the overhang leading to an in-situ peg and sling, allows one to breach the roof. Continue up directly for 4m and then move left to a tombstone flake and rest. Continue up the left facing groove/corner to super moves over the final bulge. Up and left to The Wall of Prey belay.
3) 36m (5c). Climb the left crack for 6m to a horizontal break leading to an airy position on the arête. Thin crack moves lead to an easier finish.

232a Charon *** 60m E7 (6c)
R Bell, R Druce (Headpoint). 19/07/2007.
A long pitch with a big feel to it. 6m left of Hell's Kitchen is a green groove which leads easily to a small square roof. Make a hard move out left at the roof to a niche then up and right past some small holds to a groove which gains the big ledge at half height. From the left end of the big ledge make some insecure moves (crux) straight up to gain the series of niches on the top pitch of Styx. Climb Styx to the pedestals near the top of the wall. Make a hard move to a big flat hold up left and finish straight up on good holds.

233. Styx *** 66m E6 (6b, 6b)
K Murphy, G Jones. 21/6/1986.
The right-hand side of the wall left of Hell's Kitchen is climbed from the start below that route.
1) 36m (6b). From the bottom of Hell's Kitchen traverse left for 3m to good holds leading right to a groove. Climb the groove to its top and move left and up to a niche. Move out and up rightwards from this to another small niche. Make some hard moves up from this (small layaway to the right) and gain a small hold (No.5 RP). Climb directly up the groove from here to the belay ledge on Hell's Kitchen.
2) 30m (6b). From the left end of the ledge make hard moves up off a block to reach a niche. Continue to the next niche and move left out of this to reach a good hold (moves slightly). Move right from this to a ledge below twin cracks. Climb the right-hand crack and then straight up to good holds which lead slightly leftwards to the top.

233a Elysium 30m E6 (6b)
R Bell, A Wilson, E Barbour. 08/06/2005.
Climb the top pitch of Styx past the uncomfortably loose hold to the series of ledges/pedestals at approx 2/3 height. From the left hand of the uppermost ledge make technical moves to gain a positive edge and proceed straight to top.

234. Hell's Kitchen *** 66m HVS (5a, 5a)
J McKenzie, D Richardson (Alternate leads). 9/74.
A good route with an excellent finish. Start at the groove right of the huge overhangs.
1) 36m (5a). Climb the ramp to the groove which is gained by climbing the wall on the left (difficult).
2) 30m (5a). Continue up the groove until a delicate step up can be made to a good finishing hold on the right.

234a Hell's Kitchen Arête 30m *** E6 (6a)
E Cooper, A Moles. 21/5/2004.
Start from the first belay on Hell's Kitchen. Traverse right to the edge and climb onto a sloping ledge (large & small/medium friends in crack on right). A tenuous move up the slab above reaches a good hold and commits you to absorbing unprotected climbing up the left side to reach thin cracks as the arête starts to steepen (00 friend). Now take a deep breath and attack the dramatic arête above by a series of technical moves to gain its right side (small wires). Continue directly to top with a huge grin.

234b A Rite of Passage 30m E4 (6b)
A Marshall, R Druce. 06/2007.
Climb the start of Hell's Kitchen Arête until the bottom of a splitter crack emerges. Climb the crack until it stops at a number of jammed blocks. Pass the blocks on the right handling them with care. Arrange protection in the crack above and sprint to the top!

234c Two Sides to the Story 30m E4 (5c)
A Marshall, A Moles. 06/2007.
Climb A Rite of Passage, until the jammed blocks are reached. From here pass the blocks on the left again with care move up the corner until the holds run out. Make a balancy move to gain a spectacular position on Hell's Kitchen Arête. Finish up the arête.

235. Manannán 60m E1 (5a, 5b, 4c)
C Torrans, S Billane (Alternate leads). 22/2/1975.
The top pitch is very loose and anything knocked down will hit the belayer. Avoid this route. This climb takes the groove right of Hell's Kitchen in which an offwidth crack widens to a chimney (jammed block at this point). A rough route.
1) 12m (5a). Climb the groove for 10m then move right (awkward) to a large block and belay.
2) 39m (5b). Move back into the corner crack. Climb the crack with increasing difficulty to reach the deep chimney and continue up this to an overhang. Climb the overhang on the right on good jams and continue more easily to a ledge.
3) 9m (4c). Continue up to the overhang. Move right to the arête and follow this to the top.

The next two routes start in a recess bounded on the right side by an arête which runs down to the lowest tongue of rock.

236. Ocean Boulevard *** 60m E3 (5c, 5b)
C Torrans, T Irving. 21/6/1978.
(New second pitch revealed after rockfall in 2008.)
An excellent route with a sustained and technical first pitch. Start about 2m left of Aoife below a slim groove.
1) 39m (5c). Scramble up leftwards and then back right to the base of the groove. Gain the groove and crack and continue up the groove with increasing difficulty to a small ledge.
2) 21m. (5b). Two variations at 5b, first one is better. (i) Climb the blocky corner until possible to step right around the arête to the open book corner. Climb this to the top, or (ii) Climb the blocky corner and trend left to a short steep groove. Go straight over this and up easy ground to a bulge. Avoid this by stepping right onto the arête to use jugs to finish.

237. Aoife ** 57m E1 (5b, 5a)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 10/1976.
Starting just left of the arête and taking the slanting crack line through the overhanging flakes Aoife gives two good pitches with some exposed acrobatic climbing.
1) 32m (5b). Climb the groove on the right of the grassy recess to a steep corner, up this to the overhanging flakes. Pull up over these to a rest below the crack which is climbed with increasing difficulty to a good ledge.
2) 25m (5a). Climb the wall behind the belay to a short ramp and corner which are climbed to reach easier ground.

When descending the lower part of the Ballycastle Descent Gully it is easy to see a large detached block at two-thirds height on the wall on the right. Directly below this is the groove of Girona with the left-facing groove of Chieftain on its right.

238. Closing Time 63m E5/6 (6c, 6a)
D O'Sullivan, J Dugdale. 29/5/1994.
Good climbing with a very hard, bouldery crux. Route was originally climbed in 1992 at E4 (6a, 6a) with one point of aid on the first pitch.
1) 43m (6c). Take the groove left of Girona and pass the overhang. Easy climbing leads to a position on the arête of Girona. Move left then directly up the wall to the overhang. Rest. Up and right to a peg (tat was used on first ascent). Make a desperate sequence of moves to enter the groove above. Belay at the top of the groove.
2) 20m (6a). Climb left of the block to a tricky move on the wall above which gives access to the obvious crack line on the left side of the Girona headwall.

239. Girona *** 47m VS (4c, 4c)
S Billane, C Torrans (Alternate leads). 5/1976.
A very good route, high in the grade. It starts in a short groove left of Chieftain and directly below the huge detached block.
1) 27m (4c). Climb the groove to the overhang. Climb this on the right to make a hard move back left to the crack (crux). Continue up the crack trending slightly right past dubious blocks to the large ledge right of the huge block.
2) 20m (4c). Chimney up behind the block and climb the wall above by a series of awkward mantelshelves.

240. Musarat * 70m E4 (6a, 6a)
A Moles, E Cooper (Alternate leads). 12/8/1995.
1) 45m (6a). Start just left of Chieftain. Step off the block onto the slab and move up to large holds. Move up and left from large hold into a faint groove (bold). Continue up this (small wires for protection) until it becomes a crack with a small bulge/overlap. Surmount this with some difficulty to a spike shared by Girona. Step left from the spike into a hand-jam crack and follow this trending right to the belay of Girona.
2) 25m (6a). Step down and right and climb the wall to the right of Chieftain to a good flake. Move straight up the wall above the flake (a sensational move) before moving slightly right to a faint groove and crack which leads pleasantly to the top.

241. Chieftain ** 54m VS (4b, 4b)
C Torrans, D Mitchell. 1/12/74.
A very enjoyable route which gets the afternoon sun. it takes a deep left-facing groove below the huge perched block at two-thirds height on the wall.
1) 28m (4b). Climb the deep groove for 4m. Move right onto the arête or continue up the groove. Make a thin move up the arête to reach good jugs. Move left to the large ledge at the foot of the detached block.
2) 26m (4b).Climb the crack and wall to the bottom of a groove. Enter the groove on good jugs and follow this to the top.

242. Taoiseach * 53m VS (4c, 4c)
R Green, D Walsh (Alternate leads). 4/4/1975.
A good route. High in the grade. 1m right of the left-facing groove below the big detached block there is a short wall with a rectangular block at 4m.
1) 26m (4c). Climb the wall to a strenuous mantelshelf over the block and move delicately up the wall to the right of the arête of Chieftain to belay on a large ledge.
2) 27m (4c). Climb the groove which runs from left to right. Layback for 10m (crux) to a resting place. Finish up the shallow depression in the wall above (Some loose rock near the top).

243. Cyclone * 70m E3 (5c, 5b)
K Murphy, T Ryan (Alternate Leads). 2/6/1984.
Technically reasonable but with poor protection this route takes the shallow groove 1m right of Taoiseach.
1) 43m (5c). Climb up to the overlap and surmount it on the right to gain the left-hand crack (crux). Follow the groove to the grassy ledge, some loose blocks at the top.
2) 27m (5b). Follow the groove of Taoiseach for 8m until it steepens and a traverse left can be made to gain a crack in the wall. Follow the crack to a groove which leads to the top. (Suspect flake on the right at the start of the groove).

A short way down the gully there is a pinnacle of rock on the right of the path which marks the start of the next set of climbs.

244. Racing Line ** 30m E6 (6b)
E Cooper, P McArthur. 7/4/1996.
Excellent, technical, bold climbing. Climbs the thin crack a metre left of Run Fast Run Free. A good selection of RPs is advisable. Start at an embedded flake left of Run Fast Run Free and move up and right to the base of a thin crack. Arrange gear (small RPs) until happy and then make a series of technical, bold moves up until a good ledge is reached (good rest). Move left slightly until below a second thin crack and bulge (marginally better gear). Make more hard moves to reach small edges and move up to a good ledge (possible belay). Finish up on the right via easy climbing.

245. Run Fast Run Free * 26m E3 (6a)
K Murphy, T Ryan, A Dawe. 16/7/1983.
Improved start, C Torrans. 1987.
The thin crack and wall just left of April. Start 2m left of April below the black streaks by a couple of tricky moves. Move up and then step right to the bottom of the thin crack which is climbed to a flat hold at the top of the crack (crux). Move left to a jug and then diagonally left on jugs until a short corner above can be climbed to the top.

246. Hector Pickaxe 26m E4/5 (6b)
D O'Sullivan, J Dugdale. 25/5/1994.
The logical line left of April (bold with one very hard move). Start as for Run Fast Run Free and follow this route to good holds at half height. Move slightly right and climb directly up the thin crack above (No.1 RP at base of crack). Move left at the top of the crack and then back right easily to finish.

247. April * 23m E1 (5b)
S Billane, R Cowan (2 aid points). 18/4/1976.
C Torrans, C Sheridan (First free ascent).
An excellent little route if the variation finish is climbed. It follows a series of short ramps and corners up the wall behind the large pinnacle half way down the gully. Climb the slab trending right (delicate). Move up and left on a jug, continue up the short ramp to reach the chimney and climb this to the top.

Variation finish - April Arête ** E1 (5b)
E Cooper, K Murphy. 26/3/1985.
Climb to the top of the second short ramp (after the crux of April) to just below the chimney, move right on good holds to the crack on the arête, and follow this to the top.

248. The Brat 22m VS (4b)
C Torrans, R Green. 10/1974.
Start behind the large pinnacle in Ballycastle Descent Gully. Climb the crack - difficult to start. Continue up the crack to a ledge. Move right to a crack and follow this to the top.

Some of the cracks between The Brat and the top of the Ballycastle Descent Gully have been climbed at up to Hard Very Severe. Two of these are Master Chapster and Cruthin.

248a Master Chapster 16m HVS (5a)
A Marshall , S Gordon. 15/01/2005.
Start 7m right of The Brat. Climb a left trending crack to gain a ledge. Place protection in the horizontal flaw and a No. 1 nut in the flake. Proceed up the face to gain another ledge (crux). Move up again, slinging the "loose" flake for added protection and proceed with confidence to the top.

248b Cruthin 15m S
S. Billane, V. McCartney, 03/1976.
Takes a slanting groove line to the right of The Brat.

The Ballycastle Descent Gully itself is the rocky bed of the outlet of Lough Doo. It gives relatively easy access to routes up to and including those on The Prow.

Ballycastle Descent Gully - West

The section of crag between Ballycastle Descent Gully and The Prow is a rambling area of vegetated rock but gives several good routes. Two grassy breaks divide this section and are used in identifying routes.


249. Offcuts 24m HVS (5a)
C Torrans, C Sheridan, E Goulding. 5/1976.
This climb takes the stepped corners on the right side of the gully. There are a few easy points of escape to the left. Start at the lowest point of rock where the gully and main face meet. Climb the groove and move left to the corner. Climb this to a ledge and continue up the crack above. From the next ledge it is best to walk off left as the rock above and to the right is very loose.

250. Dusty Rhodes * 35m E2 (5c)
E Cooper. 11/5/1984.
A good wall climb, protected by small wires. It takes a route up the pillar just right of Offcuts. Start as for Offcuts.
1) 35m (5c). Climb the groove until it is possible to step right and gain the obvious ledge. Continue up ledges to the bottom of a steep wall. Climb just right of the arête to a short offwidth, using this continue up the wall above with another difficult move to gain a flake crack. Step left and continue easily up the arête to a good ledge.
2) Finish by whatever route you like.

251. Emmanuelle * 60m VS (4b, 4a)
C Torrans, S Billane (Alternate leads). 8/2/1975.
Top pitch is dangerous with loose blocks. This route takes a line of grooves and corners up the right side of the pillar of Dusty Rhodes. Start at the slim groove just right of the start of Offcuts.
1) 36m (4b). Climb the groove and crack to a ledge. The corner above is reached by traversing right for 2m and then following a good crack which is used to surmount a sloping shelf on the left before moving up and left into the corner. Climb this to a stance at 9m.
2) 24m (4a). Continue straight up over the shattered block to a grassy gully. Climb the gully for a few feet to a crack on the right. Follow the crack to the front of the pillar and climb this to the top.

252. Soulful Eyes 68m VS (4c, 4a)
S Billane, C Torrans (Alternate leads). 1/12/74.
Start just right of the low tongue of rock right of Emmanuelle and about 12m right of the edge of the gully.
1) 47m (4c). Climb vegetated rock to the bottom of the groove/crack. Climb this for 3m to a detached flake. Traverse left for 2m, climb the crack and move back right, then up right and over some steep rock for 3m. make a long step to a ledge and continue up easy rock to the overhang. Climb this on the left and continue up to the overhanging chimney (difficult). Climb the chimney to a belay.
2) 21m (4a). Finish up by the easy crack and ledges.

253. Andromeda 72m HVS (4b, 4c)
I Rea, K Lindsay, T Spiers. 5/1981.
To the right of Soulful Eyes there is a large grassy bay bounded on the right by a prominent pillar. The route starts immediately left of the pillar.
1) 30m (4b). Climb an easy left-trending groove to the ledge below a clean slab. Step right to gain the slab and then trend left up this to an excellent stance below prominent overhangs.
2) 42m (4c). Step down from the stance and climb the blocky corner on the right. After about 7m hard moves left (crux) lead to a small ledge. Traverse left into the middle of the face and follow the obvious big holds up to a small niche. Exit left from the niche and go up to another ledge. Finish up the easy groove above starting on the left.

On the right of the grassy bay the rock comes down quite low to end in a small sandstone band. The next two routes start a few metres right of this.

254. Eithne Inguba * 72m E1 (5b, 4c)
C Sheridan, C Torrans (Alternate leads). 10/6/1978.
A good route, reasonable for the grade.
1) 45m (5b). Climb up into the bottom of the corner below a small bulge. Step left and climb the wall for 2m until it is possible to move back into the corner. Climb the corner to a small overhang, move left and up for 2m before traversing left below a bulge and back right and up small ledges to reach a steep crack on the right leading to an overhang. Climb the crack and make a high step onto a slab on the left (crux). Easier climbing to blocky ledges.
2) 27m (4c). From the blocks climb steep cracks trending leftwards up the wall above to reach a vegetated ledge. Continue straight up for 2m, move round left into a corner, up cracks to a short groove and overhang which is climbed on the right.

255. Argosy * 69m E1 (5a, 4b)
K Higgs, D Somers. 12/2/1978.
A very good climb with a bold first pitch. Start as for Eithne Inguba.
1) 48m (5a). Climb the short wall passing the dubious hanging block on its left side and gain ledges above. Move diagonally right to a short wall below the corner groove. Climb the wall on widely-spaced holds (crux) and gain the bottom of the corner. Continue up the corner groove and at a small overhang step left and gain a narrow ramp. Climb the ramp (delicate to start) to reach good ledges leading left. Move up behind blocks to belay.
2) 21m (4b). Move up the blocky crack just left of the large spike and continue up the weakness to a stance below the wide crack. Climb the crack to the grassy niche above then up the pointed block on the left and step across right to reach a big hold. Finish up the short groove to the top.

256. Odyssey ** 66m VS (4c, 4a, 4b)
K Higgs, T Hand. 7/10/1978.
A popular route with good varied climbing. It takes the corner with square-cut overhangs right of Argosy.
1) 22m (4c). Move up the small ledges then climb leftwards via a small overlap to gain a sloping ledge below the corner. Climb the corner. Just below the overhang step out left to a large ledge on the arête. Finish up the short wall to a belay stance.
2) 23m (4a). Climb directly above the belay to a thin crack. Pass under this on the left to a fine position on the arête. Follow the arête and groove above to a grassy platform.
3) 21m (4b). Finish up Pitch 2 of Argosy.

Variation 3rd pitch E1 (5b)
D Douglas, C Kinney. Summer 1997.
The belay at the end of the 2nd pitch is at big boulder on a long grass ledge with a good wall behind. The E1 pitch is right up the center of this wall on good rock with exposed moves - the VS goes up to the left. Climb up slightly left for about 3m until you meet the start of a left slanting fault/crack line, follow this until it tapers out, step out right at a small pod (crux) onto a vertical section then straight up to the top.

257 Dearg Doom needs investigated, following the rockfall on the 3rd pitch. Approximately 6 metres of the middle of the third pitch has fallen down, some to the bottom and also some precariously perched on that grassy ledge that bisects that cliff. It's just sitting there and is ready to topple, perhaps to anyone below or anyone doing the route. Take care.

257. Dearg Doom * 69m VS (4a, 4c, 4c)
D Howard, J Kerr (Alternate leads). 25/3/1977.
This route starts up the corner crack 2m right of Odyssey.
1) 23m (4a). Climb the wide crack and gain a large ledge 6m below the overhang.
2) 23m (4c). Climb the groove to the left-hand end of the overhang. Move right around and under the overhang (crux) and enter the crack behind the flake. One awkward move leads to easier jamming. Mantelshelf onto a large platform, step left onto a block, move left and up then back right to enter a groove which leads to a large terrace.
3) 21m (4c). This pitch has changed since the rockfall - description needs checked. Easily up vegetation and flakes to the base of the line of weakness. Climb for 6m to enter a chimney turning a dubious block on its right. Strenuous moves lead to a step leftwards onto a block and twin cracks are followed to the top.

258. Atlantic City * 48m E1 (5b)
I Rea, E Cooper. 30/5/1985.
The prominent pillar with the right-facing corner (Pitch 1 of Odyssey) is roughly in the middle of the area of rock between the gully and The Prow. The groove and crack right of this is Dearg Doom and Atlantic City starts just right of this. Climb up and gain a ledge on the right, climb a short wall to another ledge. Go up and left to more ledges. Up left again until the way is barred by an overhang. Swing out left to good holds, continue up to the base of a scoop with a thin crack running up and left. Follow the crack and move right to good holds. Go left across the wall into Dearg Doom and either finish up this and a short subsidiary groove on the right or finish up the wall left of Sodbuster. (Beware of rope drag).

259. The Great Plains 55m E2 (5c, 5b)
I Rea, M Rea. 1/5/1994.
1) 25m (5c). Make the first few moves of Sodbuster, then continue up left to the highest blocky ledge. Long stretch left to gain good footholds. Go straight up to a small rectangular overhang. Gain good holds on the top of this and swing out left and up to a good ledge and rest. Step back right into a very slim groove. Go up and gain a series of good handholds, which leads naturally up and right to the belay of Sodbuster.
2) 30m (5b). Traverse left as for Sodbuster and go round the edge. Up to a good ledge, then up right onto the face of a bulge. Up a few metres until possible to step right over another bulge onto the open face. Climb the long slim groove to an excellent belay ledge below the vegetation.
3) Scramble up over blocks and grass easily to the top.

260. Sodbuster * 55m VS (4c, 4c)
I Rea, K Lindsay, P McCall. 11/3/1984.
Quite a good route at the right-hand side of the buttress right of Dearg Doom. 1) 20m (4c). Move up a broken ledgy wall towards a faint shallow groove, climb this and belay on a foothold stance at the base of a niche.
2) 35m (4c). Step up and move left around the arête. Climb up trending left passing a small overhang. Go up and left again and climb the airy arête (short crux). Gain ledges and finish out left.

The following routes are on the buttress between Atlantic City and the Prow. Organ pipe columns form the upper section of the buttress and there are three climbs on them that are reached by abseil or by climbing Pitch 1 of Rumplestiltskin.

261. Rumplestiltskin 60m E3 (5b, 5c)
J Armstrong, P O'Sullivan. 21/7/1984.
Start at the bottom of the curving crack.
1) 30m (5b). Climb the curving crack. Make a hard move to enter the offwidth and climb this to a steep grass bank. Move rightwards for 5m to a large grass ledge. Belay in the flake crack.
2) 30m (5c). Step right and climb the clean crack line to the top (sustained).

The next three routes start on the ledge at the end of the first pitch of Rumplestiltskin and are best approached by abseil.

262. End of an Era 30m E2 (5c)
R Lawson, G Murray. 9/1986.
Start at the left-hand end of the ledge. Move left and up thin cracks to a ledge. Climb the corner cracks to the top.

263. Pepper and Bracket 30m E2 (5c)
R Lawson, G Murray. 5/1985.
Start below and left of a large detached block at 15m. Climb thin cracks up the wall until it is possible to move right onto a large block. Continue up the crack to the top.

264. The Quiet Man 35m E2 (5b)
R Lawson, G Murray. 9/1986
From the start of the second pitch of Rumplestiltskin follow the obvious diagonal traverse line right (thin). Move around the corner to the bay and climb the deep left-hand crack to the top.

The Prow

The next big feature is the Prow. This prominent buttress can be seen in profile when looking west from the bottom of the descent gully. The left side is undercut with a white band of rock running through it, and the right side runs off into a wall of columns and cracks which eventually tapers out into the hillside. It is approached from the Ballycastle Descent Gully or, for the routes on the right-hand side, down a short steep gully which bounds the continuous rock on the right, or further right again down the heathery slope.

The Prow gives excellent crack climbing with a few good face climbs. It also dries quickly, even in the foulest weather, and benefits from the evening sun. Easiest to approach by abseil from the large boulders above Midnight Cruiser using a 50m rope.

265. Five Gears in Reverse 60m E1 (4b, 5b, 5a)
T McQueen, P Mallon. 5/1988.
Start as for Pyrrhic Victory.
1) 20m (4b). Climb Pyrrhic Victory for 8m then make an awkward move left onto a ledge. Continue up the wide easy fault. Belay in a large scoop below the offwidth (large friends useful).
2) 25m (5b). Gain the crack above, either directly up the offwidth, or via the slab on the right. Jam the sustained crack line to belay on the large grass ledge.
3) 15m (5a). Climb the recessed twin cracks to the top.

266. Jubilee 64m E1 (5b, 5a)
I Makin, G Dawson. 26/5/1986.
A bit loose and scruffy. Start at the left end of the undercut section below a short corner. 1) 42m (5b). Climb easily up the corner to a jammed block at 24m. Continue straight up the crack to belay on the ledge on the left.
2) 22m (5a). Climb the left-hand crack and over a large jammed flake to a pedestal. Step off the block and climb the twin cracks to the top.

267. Pyrrhic Victory ** 56m E2 (5a, 5b)
R Lawson, D Stelfox (Alternate leads). 13/4/1980.
Sustained and strenuous climbing on excellent jams. Low in the grade. Start at the left end of the undercut section below a short corner. Most of Pitch 1 is shared with Jubilee. First pitch is unpleasant, best to abseil in for the excellent second pitch.
1) 27m (5a). Climb easily up the corner to a jammed block at 24m. Traverse right across the slab to a belay ledge.
2) 29m (5b). Climb the twin cracks above. (It eases slightly above the mid-way bulge).

268. Cyprus Avenue 55m E3 (6a)
E Cooper, R Brown, A Moles. Spring 1990.
Start on the belay ledge at the end of the first pitch of Pyrrhic Victory. Step down and right to a crack, which is climbed with difficulty through a bulge. Continue on good jams and edges to the top.

269. Threadneedle Street 55m E3 (5c)
E. Cooper 1990.
Starts as for Cyprus Avenue and takes the next crack to the right.

The next four routes share the same start at the right-hand end of the undercut section below a short right-facing corner.

270. Mojave 55m E3 (5c)
E. Cooper 1990.
Starts as for Thunder Road and takes the next crack left of that route.

271. Thunder Road *** 58m E3 (4c, 5c)
E Cooper, S Reid, M Manson. 14/6/1984.
An intimidating second pitch.
1) 16m (4c). Climb the corner, good holds on the left at 2m and continue up the groove to a belay on a small ledge on the left of the crack.
2) 42m (5c). Traverse left to gain the groove. Climb this to a flake (spike runner). Sustained climbing to gain the crack above the bulge. Continue up the crack with no respite until it eases slightly at half height.

272. Wagger Moon ** 48m E2 (5c)
C Torrans, D Somers. 15/4/1978.
A good route on which to practice the fine art of offwidthing. A belay can be taken in the chimney at 45m. Climb the corner for 2m and move left onto good holds. Continue up the groove to the overhang and the two fist cracks. Make some difficult moves to gain the wide crack on the left (the crack on the right is The Doffer). Climb the crack to a bulge, continue up to a chimney. Easy climbing to the top.

273. The Doffer * 48m E1 (5b)
C Torrans, D Somers. 11/2/1977.
Not as vicious as it looks. Some great positions. As for Wagger Moon to the overhang and fist cracks. Gain the crack on the right and climb this to the top. Sustained (The jammed blocks are sound).

A deep groove on the front of the Prow marks the start of the next three routes.

274. Black Taxi * 46m E1 (5b)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 11/12/1976.
A good route. Climb the deep groove for a few metres and step left onto a ledge on the slabby wall. Climb this wall to a crack on the left on widely-spaced flat holds. Climb the crack, hard at the jammed flakes which are sound.

275. Darkness ** 44m E2 (5c)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 25/6/1981.
This route gives excellent finger-crack climbing. It starts as for Mongrel Fox and shares the first 15m with this route. Climb the deep groove to the overhang. Climb the overhang on the left and continue up the deep crack for 3m before stepping left into a thin crack. Climb this to the top (sustained).

276. Mongrel Fox ** 42m E1 (5b)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 6/2/1977.
A pleasant introduction to the Prow. It starts at the deep V groove on the right at the front of the Prow and takes the wide twin cracks just right of Black Taxi. Climb the groove to an overhang at 10m. Climb the overhang on the left and gain a small niche. Jam up the twin cracks to reach a block, continue up the twin cracks on the right and move right to reach good ledges. Continue up the right-hand crack until it is possible to move left into the base of the scoop (resting place). Step back right into the crack then difficult climbing to reach jammed blocks and the top.

277. Thunderhips ** 39m E1 (5b)
C Torrans, S Billane. (First route on the Prow). 22/2/1975.
An interesting route up the right edge of the Prow. Left of Fireball a crack runs down from the top and peters out about 7m from the ground. Thunderhips is climbed by moving left into this after 7m. Climb Fireball for 7m to a small foothold on the left wall. Traverse left to a good crack, climb the crack to a depression then up blocks and continue up the crack with increasing difficulty.

277a Direct E4 (6a)
A Marshall, S Gordon. 21/01/2005.
Start at the base of the arête directly below Thunderhips. Climb the face on small edges to gain a ledge. Step up from the ledge to a flake and place small wires for protection, step right and place extra protection in Fireball if needed. Continue on edges, making a couple of exciting moves (crux) to gain the crack and finish up Thunderhips.

278. Fireball *** 39m E1 (5b)
T Ryan, K Higgs. 4/12/1976.
Sustained technical climbing at a reasonable level has made this route justifiably popular. It takes the left crack above the large boulder and goes straight to the top. Climb the wide crack and continue on good jams (sustained) until large holds on the left can be reached and used to get into a deep groove. Climb the groove with a difficult bulge near the top.

279. Midnight Cruiser *** 36m E1 (5b)
T Ryan, F Nugent. 18/3/1979.
Good climbing guaranteed to pump the forearms. It starts up in the corner above the huge boulder and finishes up twin cracks. Climb up to the overhang at 6m. Surmount this and continue up to resting footholds on the right wall at mid-height. Continue up twin cracks (crux) to a difficult finish on flat holds.

279a Marconi Arête 36m *** E4/5 (6a)
E Cooper, M Rocks. 07/05/2004.
Start up the left side of the arête between Midnight Cruiser and Marconi. Difficult moves lead to easier climbing up the right side of the arête eventually reaching a narrow ledge at approx. 15m (good runner in Marconi). Step left and continue up the wall to the flat topped spike on Midnight Cruiser, step right and climb Marconi to the top.

280. Marconi *** 36m E3 (5c)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 4/11/1984.
A pleasant change from the gear-on-demand climbing in the cracks, this route gives excellent face climbing. Start a few metres right of the corner (Midnight Cruiser) below a short corner crack. Climb the crack to a groove and follow this to a bulge (crux). Continue up the groove to the top. (2 1/2 Friend useful below the crux).

281. The Embankment *** 40m E2 (5c)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 2/12/1984.
Good open climbing up the groove a few metres to the left of the square-cut overhang near Railroad. Gain the groove from the left and follow it to the top.

282. Railroad *** 36m E1 (5b)
K Higgs, T Ryan. 6/2/1977.
An excellent route. A good introduction to jamming techniques. Start below and to the left of the square-cut overhang and climb the flaky wall (delicate) to a horizontal break at 7m, or start on the right below the square-cut overhang and climb up to and around this directly. Move up the crack on the right and continue with sustained difficulty up the twin cracks. Avoid a very loose rightward possibility near the top of the cracks and climb directly up to the overhang. Take the overhang on good holds and jams. Finish up the steep crack.

283. Balooba 33m VS (4c, 4b)
T Ryan, K Higgs. 18/12/1976.
Climbs the corner crack just right of the square-cut overhang.
1) 18m (4c). Climb the groove for 6m to a corner. Follow this to a ledge on the right.
2) 15m (4b). Avoid the chimney above and climb the crack.

284. Sabre Rattler * 38m HVS (4c)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 9/1980.
A neat little route taking the arête right of Balooba. Climb the arête, nut runner at 12m in the crack on the left of the arête. Climb up over a slight bulge to a crack. Follow this to a platform then go up a chimney on the right to a ledge. Climb a thin crack to the top.

285. Stone Mad 39m HVS (5a)
T. Hand, J McKenzie. 19/5/1979.
Start just right of Sabre Rattler. Climb the short slab to the start of a crack, continue up the crack past a bulge (crux) to a large platform. From here step right into a short corner with jammed blocks and continue to the top.

285a Revival 28m HVS (5a)
G Somerville, D Corbett. Summer 2003.
The V groove between Stone Mad and Curlew. Start below Curlew and climb up easily to the start of the V groove. Climb the groove, thoughtfully, to the ledge. Follow the left-hand crack and jammed blocks to the top.

286. Curlew 28m VS (4c)
I Rea, E Cooper. 17/3/1985.
This takes the crack right of Revival. Climb the crack to the top of the pillar and finish up the right-hand crack.

287. Contortions 38m VS (4c, 4a)
D Mitchel, J Millar. 22/6/1980.
Start at the base of the third crack right of Stone Mad and left around the corner from a long narrow overlap.
1) 23m (4c). Climb over the difficult bulge and up the flared crack. Easier climbing leads to the crux which is the steep crack for 4m. Exit right onto a ledge.
2) 15m (4a). After passing the choss climb the slabby wall above, moving left.

288. Poxy Arête 21m E2 (5c)
E Cooper, I Rea. 17/3/1985.
Good climbing if a bit eliminate, taking the blunt arête between Contortions and Contractions. Start at the lowest point of the arête. Climb this to a ledge, move left into Contortions (good runner). Move directly back onto the arête and gain the sloping hold (hard) or make a couple of moves up Contortions to gain it more easily. Continue up the arête to a bulge, step up right (runner) and immediately back left to climb the arête to the top.

289. Contractions 36m VS (5a, 4a)
P Chatterley, J Rotherdam (Alternate leads). 1/1978.
This route takes the crack above and left of the long narrow overlap.
1) 21m (5a). Move up and gain the ledge above with difficulty. Surmount the bulge and climb the crack to a ledge. Belay on the second ledge.
2) 15m (4a). As for Contortions.

290. Foxy 30m HS
J Anderson, I Irwin. Easter 1970.
This takes the wide dirty crack splitting the narrow overlap. Climb the crack to a block, surmount this and continue up with an awkward finish onto a grass ledge. Finish by various alternatives.

291. Good Morning Judge 24m HVS (5a, 4a)
S Billane, V McCartney. 19/3/1977.
Start in the corner beside a short chimney with an overhang.
1) 12m (5a). Climb the short chimney to the overhang. Pass this on the right and belay on the pulpit.
2) 12m (4a). Continue up the crack to the top.

292. Fáth Mo Bhuartha *** 24m E1 (5b)
D Somers, J Dwyer. 1977.
Start 1m right of Good Morning Judge. Climb a slightly rightward-trending crack for 6m to a good ledge. Using both cracks proceed with difficulty past two bulges and move up the right-hand crack. Continue straight up the final bulge using poor finger jams (crux).
A popular variation is to climb Fáth Mo Bhuartha using only the right or left crack, giving two good alternatives at the same grade. Another excellent variation is to climb Good Morning Judge to the overhang, passing it on the right and then traverse right into the left crack of Fáth Mo Bhuartha and follow this to the top for a low in the grade E1 (5b).

293. GBH *** 24m E3 (6a)
C Torrans, C Sheridan (One aid point). 10/6/1979.
K Murphy (First free ascent).
A good route for the aspiring hard man, it takes the crack immediately right of Fáth Mo Bhuartha. Climb the deep crack on excellent jams to the bulging wall. Climb the wall on well-spaced flat holds. Gain a small rounded foothold and make some difficult moves up the thin crack on good finger slots then a high step to reach a sloping foothold. Continue up the crack on good jams.

294. The Black Thief *** 24m VS (4b)
C Sheridan, C Torrans. 18/12/1976.
A good introduction to jamming. Start up the groove right of GBH and climb the cracks above, at first on the left and finishing up the right-hand one.

295. The Fence *** 24m VS (4c)
C Torrans, S Billane. 26/12/1976.
A VS that thinks it's a HVS, very popular. Climb the first crack and groove right of The Black Thief and just left of a grassy ledge 2m above the ground. Climb the groove and then the overhang on good jams, up the crack to the top.

296. The Offence 24m HVS (5a)
D Stelfox, R Lawson. 8/4/1980.
Runs up from the left side of the grassy ledge. Climb the arête just right of The Fence using blocky holds on the right to the base of the cracks. Climb the cracks to a ledge on the right. Continue up a crack to the top of the pillar on the left, follow the crack to the top.

297. Residue 15m HS (4a)
J Rotherdam, P Holmes, R Rowe. 1977.
A poor route starting just right of The Offence with an awkward scramble up onto the grassy ledge to reach the base of a groove. Climb this on large holds to heather ledges, up these to the top.

298. Jungle Rock 39m VS (5a, 4a)
J Rotherdam, R Rowe, R Telford. 1977.
This route takes the short wide crack just right of the grassy ledge.
1) 12m (5a). Climb the crack (awkward).
2) 27m (4a). Climb up from the sapling on good holds and jams, finish up heather ledges.

The following routes are located on the small buttress just right of Jungle Rock, bordered on the right by the descent gully and on the left by a small tree.

299. Los Molinos 15m HS (4a)
P McGarrity, J Magennis. May 1992.
Start where the tree grows out of the base of a crack. Climb the crack.

300. La Molinero 25m HVS (5a, 5a)
P McGarrity, J Magennis. 5/1992.
This takes the next crack to the right.
1) 18m (5a). Climb the crack (belay at the base of the upper tier or continue in one pitch).
2) 7m (5a). Directly behind on the upper tier continue up cracks to the right of a small spike flake.

301. Bramble 20m S
C Sheridan, C Torrans. 1/12/1984.
The crack up the right side of the column just right of the tree. Climb the corner crack, treating the block at the top left with caution, exit right.

302. Dríodar na hAille 20m HS
C Sheridan, C Torrans. 2/12/1984.
The second crack left of the wide crack (Salamander). Climb the crack to a ledge, move left to the deep wide crack and continue to the top.

303. Simple Minds * 18m E1 (5b)
I Rea, S Allen. 22/8/1984.
This good little route takes the thin crack just left of the wide crack of Salamander.

304. Salamander 18m VS (4c)
M McNaught, R Bankhead. 26/5/1986.
A wide crack with a jammed block high up on the right-hand side of the buttress. Climb up to the large jammed block (sound). Surmount the block and continue up the crack in the short corner.

Farrangandoo crag

The crag is located approximately 400m south-west of the Ballycastle Descent Gully. Right of the buttress containing The Black Thief and The Fence there is a wide grassy slope and a faint zig-zag path down this slope leads to the left-hand end of the Farrangandoo Crag. From this point the crag is in the shape of an amphitheatre with its right edge formed by an obvious prow. The amphitheatre area is divided into two walls by a steep grassy boulder-choked gully. The routes are described from left to right. On the left wing of the amphitheatre there are three short grooves, these are the first three routes.

305. Gunther Grass 18m S
C Sheridan, S Sheridan. 12/1//1978.
At the left edge of the wall there is a small grassy terrace with a clump of small trees. Climb the groove left of this terrace passing a shifty chockstone near the top.

306. Casablanca * 21m VS (4c)
C Sheridan, C Torrans. 4/12/1977.
The middle groove.

306a Cadiz 21m E1 (5c)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 2003.
The thin crack right of Casablanca, short but good.

307. Cairo 24m HVS (5a)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 3/12/1977.
The right-hand groove. Pass a tree on the left and climb the wide crack/chimney above (difficult near the top).

308. Fargo 36m E3 (5c)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 1993.
Sustained and difficult climbing. Start at the slabby wall just left of the right facing groove of Slittery Slat. Climb the wall to a ledge and continue up the groove (passing the old peg) with increasing difficulty to reach the crack which is followed through the overhang to the top.

308a Belfast Cowboys 36m E4 (6a)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 2003.
Climbs the groove of Fargo to above the good peg, move left into the next groove and up. Starting up the top groove is hard.

309. The Kerb ** 36m E3 (5c)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 8/1991.
A good route with exciting jamming through an overhang. Start as for Slittery Slat and follow this to the bottom of the old peg groove. Make a bold move up and right into the groove and follow this to the crack that runs through the overhangs to the top.

310. Slittery Slat ** 39m E2 (5c)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 19/6/1979.
At the lowest point of the left side of the Farrangandoo bay there is a short right-facing groove. A bold start on poor rock leads to a good crack. Climb the groove to a big jug up on the left. Continue to a grassy ledge (one old peg) and move out onto the rib on the right. Move up slightly and then across right using flat holds (crux) to a crack, which gets deeper after a few moves.

311. Crib Pad Crack *** 36m E1 (5b)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 27/8/1977.
Superb jamming with good positions. A popular little route. This is the steep crack line which runs past several small overlaps in the centre of the highest section of the wall. Start at the base of the damp-looking corner to the right of the clean corner capped by an overhang. Climb the corner and crack for 9m until a long step left can be made to the excellent crack above the overhang. This is followed with more sustained effort to the top.

Direct *** 13m E3 (6a)
C Torrans, I Johnson. 1990.
Climbs the overhang, which Crib Pad Crack avoids. Start below the overhang and gain the corner. Tricky moves up the corner to the overhang. Make a long reach or jump to gain a huge hold and from there finish up Crib Pad Crack.

312. Pangur Bán *** 36m HVS (5a)
C Sheridan, C Torrans. 14/10/1977.
A delightful pitch. Climb the corner and crack as for Crib Pad Crack and continue straight up past a short steep wall to finish via the sustained crack above.

The deep groove left of the gully is Alleycat. The next two routes take the two grooves just left again.

313. Dark Corners 25m E1 (5b)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 5/1983.
Has suffered rockfall. Start just left of the groove of Alleycat below two grooves. Climb the left-hand groove, the crux is at half-height.

314. Loosestrife 25m E1 (5b)
C Sheridan, C Torrans. 5/1983.
The right-hand groove. Start as for Dark Corners and climb the groove and crack above with increasing difficulty. Some lose rock at the start.

315. Alleycat 30m HVS (5b)
K Higgs, T Ryan. 22/10/1977.
This route takes the deep corner groove left of the foot of the grassy boulder-choked gully. Climb this easily to a stance at 12m then move up right and make some technical moves (crux) to gain a better crack. Move up to the base of the deep corner groove, climb this, and about 3m below the top move right to finish.

Right of Alleycat there is a grassy boulder-choked gully. The steep wall flanking the left side of the gully contains several crack lines. It is best to abseil.

316. Samson
Gone. The entire column collapsed in July 2004.

317. Lazarus * 24m VS (4c)
T Ryan, K Higgs. 10/1977.
Climb the first crack in the gully to a jammed rocking block and continue up the groove above to an overhang. Pass the overhang on the left (crux). Continue more easily up the crack above.

318. Jezebel * 24m HVS (5b)
K Higgs, C Torrans. 15/1//1978.
Start at the base of the straight crack, about 1m right of Lazarus. Climb flakes and the steep crack for 12m to reach good footholds at the base of a shallow groove. Move up and jam the bulging crack above (crux) to gain good holds high on the right. Finish more easily up the blocky crack.

319. Hard Rain 24m E1 (5b)
A Currans, R Lawson. 15/9/1979.
The first crack right of Jezebel. Climb the flake to the first overhang. Continue up the flake to ledges on the left. Step right into the crack using two chockstones. Climb the crack to where the wall steepens and continue to the top.

320. Velocette 21m VS (4b)
R Cole, M Smith. 16/6/1979.
The crack right of Hard Rain. Climb the crack to a deep chimney, surmount the small overhang and continue to the top.

321. The Squirt 15m VS (4b)
M Smith, R Cole. 16/6/1979.
The second crack right of Velocette. Climb the overhanging boulder to a ledge and climb the crack by jamming until it is possible to bridge on the leaning pillar.

' To the right of the grassy boulder-choked gully is a face with a large overhang at one-third height. The face is bounded on the right by a prow.

322. Essence 45m E3 (5c)
I Rea, E Cooper. 1/6/1992.
Start 20m right of the gully at the open groove. Climb up the groove to a ledge at 10m. Make delicate moves left to gain a crack. Up this for several metres to another ledge. Step left onto pillar edge and climb this for about 7m, make a hard move out right to gain a crack above the overhang. Continue up this to the top.

To the right of the grassy boulder-choked gully is a face with a large overhang at one-third height. The face is bounded on the right by a prow.

323a. Unnamed Triptic 40m E2 (5c)
P McGarrity, J Magennis. 6/1993.
8m to the left of Big Hooothcher is a dark band of rock in a groove to the right of the prominent arête and below a series of overhangs. The route starts at the bottom of this. Start in the obvious groove for 2-3 metres but veer right towards the left hand of the two obvious cracks, climb this through the first small overhang. Continue 2-3 metres until you are able to step right (crux) into the bottom of the right-hand crack. Follow this and continue up to the second of the three overhangs (pre-placed peg - no longer there). Climb the overhang on good jams and small horizontal crack on the left. Continue up and over the large jammed block and then spectacularly through the third and final overhang using a good flake on the right. An alternative finish - when at the last overhang traverse left on the horizontal crack around the corner and up to the top (5a) - not as good as the original.

324. Big Hooothcher 35m E3 (6a)
J Magennis, P McGarrity (One aid point). 17/3/1993.
E Cooper, C Torrans, A Moles (First free ascent). 5/6/1993.
In the middle of the face is an obvious large overhang at one-third height with a bush 3m below. This route follows the crack through the overhang. Below the overhang is an arête. Climb this on the right or left (5b) to the overhang (peg) - a belay was taken here on the first ascent. Climb the overhang (crux) - sling in place around the lower chockstone. Continue up the crack for 10m on adequate protection until good protection is found on the last 10m.

325. Kor 45m E3 (5c)
I Rea, C Torrans. 4/6/1992.
Start 5m right of Big Hoootcher, between two saplings (one just above the ground, and the other about 9m up on the left). Climb the small pillar (down to the right of the higher sapling) on big flat holds to a bulge. Undercling the downward pointing spikes and make a hard, bold move to gain the groove. Climb this at a much easier standard to the top.

326. Joy Division 45m E2 (5c)
I Rea, G Murray. 24/4/1993.
Start a few metres right of Kor and climb an easy blocky stairway to a big ledge below a steep wall. From the left edge of the ledge climb steeply up the wall and gain the short groove below the black overhang, go up to below the overhang and swing out left to a good rest on foot ledges. Climb the steep crack to the top. (Bring plenty of medium sized gear).

327. Big Sky 45m E2 (5c)
I Rea, A Blair. 10/5/1993.
Follow Joy Division to the overhang. Where it goes left, swing out right into a good crack and then gain a good rest below a fine hand crack. Up this with difficulty for about 8m, then much more easily to the top.

328. The Royal Scam 45m E1 (5b)
I Rea, K Lindsay. 10/5/1993.
Follow the blocky stairway of Joy Division to the big ledge. From the right hand end of the ledge go up right across a short wall to ledges below a wide crack. Continue up this to a good rest on the right. Back left up the crack/groove with a crux at a wide section with small holds in the back of the crack.

The next five routes are situated around the prow area (not to be confused with the the Prow area further back) and are approached from the left by following a faint path along the top of the steep grassy slope to the start of a band of yellow sandstone. The deep corner above is Juggernaut.

329. Moonfleet 42m HVS (5a)
T Ryan, K Higgs (One aid point) 24/3/1977.
E Goulding (First Free Ascent).
This route takes the groove and thin cracks just left of the Juggernaut Corner. Start about 3m left of the yellow sandstone band. Climb the groove to a ledge at 22m and continue up to a resting place at the overhang. Climb this and continue with difficulty up the twin jamming cracks finishing up the left-hand one.

330. Juggernaut 42m HVS (4c, 5a)
K Higgs, T Ryan. 25/3/1977.
Filthy and usually wet.The deep corner immediately left of the central prow. Start at the base of the groove just left of the yellow sandstone band.
1) 12m (4c). Climb the groove to small ledges at 6m, step right and climb the steep wall to blocky ledges. Up these to belay at the base of the corner.
2) 30m (5a). Climb the corner crack, passing two rocking chockstones, to enter a chimney. Move up inside the chimney to an overhang, a precarious step out left brings good holds. Moves up and finish with difficulty up the wide crack.

330a Flashover 40m E3 (4c,5c)
G Somerville, R Young (One rest). 02/09/2000.
G Somerville, T Wilson (First free ascent). Summer 2003.
Takes the next crack on the right of Juggernaut. Start in the hanging groove 1m right of the deep Juggernaut groove, above the yellow sandstone band. Take care from loose rock.
(1) 12m (4c). After a high step, climb directly to the overhanging block and up easily to belay in the corner.
(2) 28m (5c). Climb the crack on the right face easily to the small overhang, continue with sustained jamming to exit on the right at the top.

The next three routes share the same start, which is just right of the prow and about 12m right of the start of the yellow band of sandstone. The rock on the lower sections of these routes is of a poor quality but the second pitch is excellent.

331. Kashubia * 42m HVS (4c, 5a)
C Sheridan, C Torrans. 3/10/1977.
Start just right of the prow below and left of an overhanging flake with a deep wide crack on its right.
1) 24m (4c). Climb the wall and short corner to a wide crack. Make a delicate step left onto the sloping ledge at the bottom of a corner. Climb the corner until a large sloping ledge on the right can be gained. Move up a few metres to a flat ledge and belay.
2) 18m (5a). Climb the crack above (sustained) for 9m, then a flat ledge on the left is reached. Finish up the wall above.

332. Chicargo 42m HVS (5a, 5a)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 1977.
This takes a crack line up the right-hand side of the central prow. Start just right of the prow, below and left of the overhanging flake that has a deep wide crack on its right. Old peg belay on the right.
1) 21m (5a). Climb the short corner to reach blocky ledges (some loose rock). Move up and left to a corner and bulging crack. Climb the crack to a ledge on the left (crux). Move right to a crack and belay at the jammed block.
2) 21m (5a). Step off the top of the block into the deep crack on the left (hard). Continue up the crack to a small overhang which is passed on the right. Follow the crack to the top.

333. Speak Easy 42m HVS (5a, 5a)
M Manson, M Smith. 24/8/1981.
This route takes the right-hand crack behind the large flake in common with the second pitch of Chicargo.
1) 21m (5a). As for Chicargo.
2) 21m (5a). From behind the flake step right and up to an overhang. Pass the overhang (crux) and climb the cracks to a jammed flake (loose but safe). Gain the ledges on the left, then finish up the crack.

The next two routes are located about 20m right of Speak Easy and Chicargo. Avoid the traverse line for these routes and walk along at the foot of the crag until below a clump of saplings. Scramble up to the starts, belays difficult to arrange.

334. Shere Khan ** 60m E2 (5c, 5c)
E Cooper, M McNaught. 19/11/1981.
The route takes a leftward-trending line across the wall to a corner leading to ledges. Start 4m right of the small saplings at the bottom of a short groove capped by a small triangular overhang.
1) 30m (5c). Climb the groove to a small overhang and move left to a good foothold. Continue up left on good holds, then using small holds on the right swing blindly to a good hold and gain a ledge. Climb the left crack for 3m and move right and up to a ledge.
2) 30m (5c). Continue up passing a bulge to a ledge at half-height. Climb the cracks (crux). Sustained, easing near the top.

335. Lionheart * 63m E4 (5c, 6a)
P Douglas, R Green (One aid point). 1980.
The route starts as poor wall climbing and continues as well-protected crack and groove. Start below the seamed orange-coloured wall 9m right of the saplings under a prominent overhang with an obvious crack which begins on its right-hand side.
1) 21m (5c). (Peg belay) Climb flakes directly below the overhang, then trend right up a series of small ledges to a large flake level with the bottom of the wide bulging crack. Make a thin move to reach the top of the flake and move left to the base of the crack. Climb this on good jams to reach a flat ledge.
2) 42m (6a). Climb to a bulge. Continue up the crack above until it thins to finger width. At this point a nut was used to gain the better holds above. Follow the crack and flakes below the final wall. Move left to the vertical V-groove and bulge. Climb this with difficulty to the top.

336. Watcher of the Skies 65m E2 (5a, 6a)
I Rea, A Cunningham. 19/4/1999.
At the far right hand side of Farrangandoo where the goat track leads to a grassy bay, a large rectangular tablet of stone leans against the cliff.
1) 20m (5a). Climb flakes right of the tablet and weave up between the cracks to a good ledge a few metres below the obvious bulge.
2) 45m (6a). Climb the bulge (crux) and steep groove above. A long pitch but a belay could be taken above the bulge.

Marconi's Cove

This is an excellent little crag with a westerly aspect, reaching 25m at its highest point. It is the same rock type as the main cliff, but the climbing is predominantly on open walls.

Approach

From Ballycastle take the Cushendall road for a few kilometres then follow the signs for Corrymeela. Follow this road along the coast to where it ends at a car park beside Marconi's cottage.

The crag is on the extreme right-hand end of a long unattractive-looking cliff undercut by bands of red and black rock, but the right wing, as you would expect, is of clean sound rock. From the car park climb the hill to the fence on the skyline and follow this (using the stiles) to the crag.

The routes are described from left to right. These first half dozen routes at the left-hand side of the crag are, in the words of the first ascensionists, mainly of dubious quality.

All routes are less than 30m in length.

337. An Dreoilín 15m HS (4b)
A Tees, P Robinson. 1990.
At the extreme left-hand end of the crag traverse out left (above the lower cliff) to gain a cleaned corner. Climb this using the twin cracks.

338. Disowned D
D Mitchell, P Robinson. 5/1991.
This takes the shallow V-shaped corner to the right of An Dreoilín.

339. Deflated HS
A Tees, P Robinson. 6/1991.
Climbs the rightward leaning crack to the right of Disowned.

340. Deflowered MS
A Tees, P. Robinson. 6/1991.
To the right again, this climbs up the wide overlapping crack to finish up a leaning corner.

341. Defrocked S
A Tees, P Robinson. 6/1991.
The next short crack on the right.

342. Defiled VS
V Russell, K Deery. 6/1991.
The last very thin crack.

342a Eskimo Fiction E4 (6b)
J McCune, J Parr. 9/12/2009.
Climb the crack and corner left of the cracked wall on the prow. Climb through an overhang easily on right wall until under a big overhang on the left to a good rest on good ledges for feet. Using small but positive crimps make a big move for a rail and flat jug. Follow thin horizontal crack left and continue up easy grooves.

The first route in the main (right-hand) wing (Soundman) takes a line up the prominent prow bounding the left side.

343. Soundman ** E3 (5c)
C Torrans, R Fenlon. 31/12/1988.
A good route with an exposed and airy finish up the front of the prow. Start below and right of a dangerous-looking hanging block. Climb the cracked wall to a thin horizontal crack and moving block then climb the groove with difficulty (crux) to the overhang. Traverse left and gain a ledge and continue up the crack to the top. (Friend used for protection at the start of the groove on the left).

Direct Finish
D Douglas, C Kinney. 1995.
Finish straight up and to the right of the overhang, less rope drag and a better photo opportunity.

344. Drimadoon HVS (5a)
C Sheridan. 3/11/1988.
A pleasant route climbing the vague groove just left of Cat's Whiskers. Climb up the groove on a series of ledges and finish up the deep crack.

345. Plain Jane 20m E3 (5c)
D Douglas (Top roped prior to ascent). 1/1994.
An alternative finish to Drimadoon. Climb Drimadoon until midway. Place high runner, step down and traverse out. Climb arête using a half circle shaped ledge on the right and a side-pull on the left. Scary moves to big slopers and finish boldly up the crack (next piece of gear is a 2-3 friend at the top of the crack).

346. Cat's Whiskers * VS (4c)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 3/11/1988.
An interesting climb taking the deep groove and crack line just right of the prow. Climb the crack and groove to the top.

347. Suck Large and Velvety 22m E5 (6a)
R Browner, S Coughlan. (Top roped prior to ascent). 6/1994.
Climb the obvious nose between Cats Whiskers and Paudee. Place a medium sized nut at 2m and climb the technical, sustained and committing nose to large ledge of Paudee (crux just before ledge). Place another medium sized nut at 18m. Finish directly up small roof and crack, with more medium sized nuts.

348. Paudee HVS (5b)
C Sheridan, C Torrans. 3/1/1989.
This route takes the right-facing corner just right of the deep V groove and crack at Cat's Whiskers. Climb up on to the blocks and ledge on the right. Climb the crack and corner until it is possible to move left onto the large ledge. Make a few difficult moves over the bulge to gain the slab above and finish up the groove on the right of the overhang.

349. Kes * HVS (4c)
M Rea, I Rea, R. Fenlon. 2/1/1989.
A bold route taking the arête left of the small clump of trees. Climb the slabby arête to the small overhang and finish up the crack on the left.

350. Distant Voices ** E3 (5c)
R Fenlon. 2/1/1989.
Hard technical climbing over the roof and bold face climbing to finish make this an excellent little route. Climb up to the overhang above the trees. Make a hard sequence of moves to reach small fingerholds on the wall above and use these to reach a ledge. Climb the wall (No. 2 friend and small wires necessary) using the arête to the top.

351. Timebends E2 (5c)
I Rea, R Fenlon. 3/1/1989.
A good route taking the same start as Airwaves. Climb up until level with the overhang on the left. Difficult bridging leads to good holds high on the left. Traverse horizontally left, then move briskly up to good ledges, traverse into the right-hand groove and finish up this.

352. Airwaves * E3 (6a)
R Fenlon, C Torrans. 31/12/1988.
An exciting route giving through the overhangs left of the deep gash. Start below the lowest point of the band of small overhangs. Climb the wall moving first right then left to the low point of the overhang, make a long reach to gain a good jug and finish up the groove.

353. Temptation E3 (5c)
E Cooper, R Brown. Spring 1990.
A fine route giving continually interesting climbing with good protection. Move right under a roof about 3m right of the overhang on Airwaves, climbing slightly left then back right to gain a groove, which is followed to the top.

354. Tramlines E1 (5b)
J Herron, A Blacoe. 26/8/1996.
Start 2m left of the deep cleft below a large roof at 4m. Climb up to gain an undercling below the roof (good small friend placement). Rock over onto the arête on the right, enter the crack and climb up to the base of the parallel cracks. Climb these to the belay ledge just below the top rim.

355. Fat City VS (4c)
I Rea, M Rea. 15/4/1989.
The deep cleft in the middle of the crag (left of the detached block). Gives good jamming.

356. Phone Call for Dr. Crippen ** E3/4 (6a)
C Torrans, M Daly. 6/1989.
A good route which starts from the dislocated block. Get up on top of the block and climb up the wall above until you can move left on edges, past a peg, to a groove which you follow to the overhang. Good RPs (if there is such a thing) can be placed where a crack meets the roof, to give you solace as you move over this obstacle and finish up the grooves above.

357. The Wrestler * E1/2 (5c)
C Torrans, C Sheridan. 4/11/1988.
A good little test piece in jamming. Climb the crack immediately right of the dislocated block.

The detached block below The Wrestler provides a good little boulder problem at 5c/6a. Climb the front using the pinch for the right hand and a lunge for the top.

358. Archangel ** E2 (5c)
C Sheridan, C Torrans, R Fenlon. 1/1/1989.
An excellent little route giving good face climbing. Start as for The Dook. Follow this route to the flake runner, traverse left onto the wall then climb the wall (crux) to the narrow downward-pointing jammed flake on the right of the overhang. Finish up the groove above.

Variation
D Douglas, C Kinney. 1995.
Start below the overlap/roof at the base of Archangel, bold moves to reach the headwall of Archangel, climb the crux of Archangel, then instead of going up right, turn the small over lap on the left and finish up this.

359. The Dook E1 (5b)
C Sheridan, R Fenlon. 30/12/1988.
The first prominent groove right of the dislocated block. Climb up to the base of the groove passing a big flake runner, climb the groove.

360. Scandinavia * E1 (5b)
I Rea, M Rea, R Fenlon. 2/1/1989.
Start just right of a big block. Easy climbing up to the steep wall, trend left across the wall to a jammed flake on the arête, traverse right to the base of the groove. Climb this to the top (small wires essential).

361. Caribou HVS (5a)
I Rea, M Rea. 31/12/1988.
The groove left of North Ship. Climb up to the jutting block on the steep wall. Swing left around this and up into a niche, step right and finish up the groove.

362. North Ship HVS (5b)
I Rea, M Rea. 31/12/1988.
Start as for Blue but climb the longer crack on the left to gain a good ledge at the base of a short groove. Finish delicately up this.

363. Blue VS (4c)
M Rea, I Rea. 31/12/1988.
Start at the bottom of the descent gully below a large flake with a short 2m crack on its left side. Climb the crack to the top of the flake, then climb the wall just to the right of the vertical crack. Delicate.