Dunmore Head

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This information is taken from New Climbs 1984.

Dunmore Head, Dingle Peninsula. Sheet 70 OS Dicovery Series.
This sea cliff is situated west of Coumeenoule Strand. GR Q 308 980. Follow a sheep track towards head until cliff can be seen below and to the L. Follow track down between upper and lower tiers.
Top Tier.
Initiation 13m HS
Start: obvious slanting V is the route of 'Iniation'.
Climb inside of V until spur. Climb R wall and continue on to belay at grass slope.
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980.
Haemmorrhage Heights 18m HS
Start: 7m R of 'Initiation' and slightly R of overhang.
Follow obvious narrow crack to vertical wall. Climb crack slanting L.
M. Barry, P. Quinn April 1983
Terra Infirma 23m HS
Start 3 m R of 'Haemmorrhage Heights'.
Climb crack that starts with small overhang(runner below loose stone). Climb through to exit at top of V. (Poor protection).
M. Barry, P. Quinn April 1983.

Bottom Tier.

Going from L to R facing crag there are a number of climbs of up to VD standard for 13m from R-hand corner.
PJ's Flight 13m MS
Start; above small rock pool at little alcove.
Climb crack starting at R-hand side for 5m. Continue straight and climb bulge.
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980
Seal Sights 10m S.
Start: 3m L of 'PJ's Flight'.
Climb from top of ramp to exit out on small but good holds.
M. Barry, P. Quinn August 1982
Moon Dance 13m VS
Start: L of 'Seal Sights' are two bulges. Up the centre of these is the line of 'Moon Dance'
Climb first overhang on delicate holds. Climb second at niche (protection scarce).
M. Barry, P Quinn August 1982
Zipper 15m MS
Start: in corner L of 'Moondance'.
Climb crack for 6m. At overhang take L-hand side and follow crack.
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980.
Pat's Hat 15m S
5m L of 'Zipper' climb corner to overhanging roof, traverse R under overhang to out on 'Zipper'.
M. Barry, P. Quinn.
Horace 15m VD
Start: as for Pat's Hat, keeping L at overhang. Follow crack to top.
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980.
Pinch 16m VD
Start: 10m L of 'Horace'.
Climb crack to L-hand side of slab.
M. Barry, P J Quirke 1980.
Adrian's Wall 23m HS
Start; on west side of crag, where the red and grey rock meet is the line of the climb.
Climb the corner to just below line of vertical quartz rock. Traverse L and step out to reach spur (runner). Continue across and up to the R to climb chimney.
P. Quinn, A. Devlin 1981.