Cuilcagh Gap

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2.75 km North West of the summit of Cuilcagh. (Grid Ref. 099296, Sheet 26, Lough Allen) When looking at the profile of Cuilcagh Mountain from the Macnean valley there is an obvious square cut gap in the square summit ridge near it's right hand end. There are a number of small buttresses and pinnacles in this area. Further east above Lough Atona is a large clean buttress with no routes recorded.


This is a large free-standing block, conspicuous by being split. It is in the boulder field some 100 m east of the gap.


PIN HOLES 10m D T.Fogg, N.Young 17th June 1983 Climbs the wall just left of the boulder-choked gully which forms the descent. (No protection)


PIN HEAD ARÊTE 15m VD T.Fogg, N.Young 17th June 1983 Climbs the arête right of chimney which splits the north face of The Pin.


MIDGE SLAB 10m D T.Fogg, N.Young 17th June 1983 Climbs the slab to the right of Pin Head. (No protection)

Soñar E6 6a 30m *** A. Marshall, P. Swail

A surprisingly unrelenting route with many surprises. It takes the left of the 2 obvious aretes above the boulder field right of the green mesh walk in to culcagh mountain. A hard committing and unprotected start (crux) leaves you at the first horizontal break with good gear. From here proceed up the face and arete until left at a slot high on the wall move up and out right to the arete and onto the other side. From a good flat hold move up and left to a comfortable position below the final piece of the arete. Beware of the small friable holds at this point. Gaining the jug above this leaves a short trip up some wobbly blocks to the top.

pads protected the start.