Cooney Rock

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The crag is located 500 metres down the road before arriving at Scailp na gCapaill. 400 metres before arriving at Scailp na gCapaill there is a parking place for 3 cars at the side of the road. From the parking, walk down ( away from Scailp na gCapaill) a further 100 metres and cross a low wall on the right into forest. The crag is 20 metres ahead in the woods. Access to the top of the crag is at the right-hand side. Follow the track cut through the gorse jungle to the top. It is also the descent.

The orientation route, Codex, takes the obvious crack that splits the centre of the wall.


Codex 25 metres VS 4c

Climb the crack passing 2 technically difficult sections. Near the top step left onto the arete and climb the wall above using perfectly shaped pockets.

(B. Proctor M. Daly) 20/4/2019


Breithlá 25 metres VS 4C

Route starts 2 metres left of Codex and 1 metre left of obvious 'letterbox'.

The route follows a faint crack up to an overlap at 6 metres. Climb the overlap up to an overhang at 10 metres. Climb this on the right and follow crack above to top.

(M. Daly B. Proctor) 24/3/2019


Bluegrass 25 metres E3 6a

Route starts 2 metres left of Breithlá

Climb the blackish groove which trends diagonally left at first and then diagonally back right to a stance below an overlap at 7 metres (first runner). Climb this leftwards to below an overhang. Climb the overhang (hard moves) and get established on small holds (poor rest) at the base of 2 parallel faint cracks (small wire protection). Climb these with increasing difficulty until respite is reached by gaining big T.G. jugs and ledge. Easy to top and block belay.

(M. Daly B. Proctor) 28/3/2019


Sligo Sloper 25 metres HVS 5a

Route takes arete 2 metres left of Bluegrass.

Slope up diagonally leftwards to reach arete. Climb this (crux) to large ledge below short corner. Up easily to top.

(M. Daly B. Proctor) 29/4/2019


Black Gold 25 metres E3 6a

Route takes the black wall right of Codex.

Climb the centre of the wall on large pockets to a horizontal break at 8 metres. Arrange protection and climb the wall by difficult moves, at first on the right, to gain a sloping foothold. Step back left to a small rounded pocket on the wall. Steady oneself and use crimps and side pinches for a few moves to gain a magic jug and gear. Up easily on pockets to top.

(M. Daly B. Proctor) 30/3/2019


Carpetbagger 23 metres VS 4b

Route takes the first groove right of Black Gold.

Climb up to a sloping pulpit and from here climb the groove. Step left near the top onto the arete. Climb easily to top.

(M. Daly B. Proctor) 20/4/2019


Ivy Groove 23 metres HS 4a

Route takes next groove right of Carpetbagger

Climb to the pulpit and step right into the groove. Up this passing 2 steep sections to top.

(M. Daly B. Proctor) 20/4/2019


Crack a-go-go 20 metres VS 4c

Route follows curving crack in centre of wall right of Carpetbagger.

Start from large ledge.

Follow line of crack to ledge below top. Up easily to finish.

(M. Daly B. Proctor) 29/4/2019