Com a Lochaigh

From Irish Climbing Online Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search

This valley is situated south of the car park for the popular pilgrim's path up to Mount Brandon. Sheet 70 of the OS map series.

Heading west from Dingle take the exit north at the Milltown roundabout. Turn right off the main road at Baile an Lochaigh (signs for a pet farm) and park at the end of the road at Q429082. Please ask at the farm for permission to enter the valley. Follow the track into the valley until it ends at the river. The crag is visible about 500m away on the left. It's roughly half an hour from the car.

The crag is of good sandstone with fantastic friction. There's a light "crust" on some parts of the crag but this doesn't pose much of a problem to climbers. There are two tiers to the crag. The following routes are located on the lower tier, which is characterised by being footed by some massive fallen blocks and a large square patch of ivy on its left hand side. There is a tiny stone wall coming from the centre of the crag to a boulder at its base. The first route starts left of this wall, the rest from the right. Descend to the right (looking out from the top of the crag).

Tús Nua, E2 5c, 12m

R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 03/03/2013

The obvious crack in the centre of the crag, offering brilliant climbing. Start below a hanging groove and head straight up, following the crack through overhangs. Continue to the top using the crack on the blunt arete. Sustained, steep, technical and well protected.

An Balla Beag, HVS 5a, 12m

R. Creagh, J. Eldred, 02/11/2015

Essentially a direct start to Cuimilt. Carefully cross over the small wall into the hole below the steep groove. Climb the groove until it's possible to swing around to the slab on the right. Continue straight up and follow cracks leftwards to the top.

Cuimilt, VS 4c, 10m

R. Creagh, D. Dineen, 03/03/2013

Start above the hole with the blackthorn tree, using the big boulder to get established in the hand crack (or by starting up the wall if you don't mind the hole below the crag). Take the left trending line along the cracks.

An Tine, E2 5b, 12m

R. Creagh, E. Kennedy, 18/03/2016

This route starts on the right side of the crag. Access the base by climbing through a small cave from the right end of the crag. The line is the obvious thin crack that starts down in a deep hole. Try to avoid stepping back behind you to save your arms. It lets up eventually.