Cnoc Mordáin

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Na Snáthaidí, Cnoc Mordáin, Iorras Aithneach

Is cnoc eibhear é Cnoc Mordáin atá 353m ar airde in Iorras Aithneach, ceanntar gaeltachta ar a bhfuil clú de bharr a chuid cheoil agus fonnadóireachta. Is iad Cill Chiaráin agus Carna na bailte is cóngaraí.

Is iad Na Snáthaidí ar thaobh dheis an chnoic ag féachaint duit ar Chuan Chill Chiaráin an raon ina gcuirfidh ailleadóirí suim. Tá radharcanna áille le fáil annseo thar muir agus oileán chomh fada le Cnoc Bréanainn i gCo. Chiarraí a bhíonn le feiceáil ar lá geal. Is fiú na radharcanna seo iontu féin mar leithscéal chun cuairt a thabhairt ar an láthair seo.

Leathann sraith leac soir ó thuaidh thar cúpla céad méadair ar thaobh an chnoic (O.S: L874378 go dtí L877380) faoi phointe 307m. Tá an charraig glan agus garbh le frithchuimilt mhaith. Tá an-chuid leac agus ballaí fós le triail. Faoi Bhinn an Duine tá leac thar 40m ar fad ag feitheamh orthu siúd ar mhaith leo dreapadh gan cosaint le frithchuimilt iontach. Tá cuid mhaith leac scaipthe ar thaobh an chnoic a thabharfaidh cleachtadh frithchuimilte agus ardtaitneamh don ailleadóir.

An bealach chuige

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Gabh ó dheas ón Teach Dóite ar R336 ar feadh 8km go Scríb agus ansin 10km siar ó dheas i dtreo Charna ar R340 go Loch Conaortha. Is féidir taisteal freisin ó Chathair na Gaillimhe ar R336 trí Indreabhán, Casla agus Ros Muc go Scríb. Tá spás le haghaidh dhá charr ar thaobh an bhóthair gar don droichead thar sceithbhealach an locha.

Siúl soir an bóthar thar teach ar an taobh clé. 50m níos faide, agus cúpla méadar i ndiaidh chaorthainn bhig, scarann cosán éiginnte ó thuaidh ón mbóthar, é carraigeach ar dtús.

Glan díreach 400m romhat tá fál sreinge i gcomhthreo leis an mbóthar. As radharc taobh thiar de thulach charraigeach tá geata tríd an fál. Bain úsáid as agus ceangail an córda i do dhiaidh. Ná dreap thar an fál sreinge: tá níos lú fáilte roimh dhreapadóirí fál ná mar atá roimh virus ebola. Trasnaigh talamh garbh agus é ag dul i ngéire chuig na carraigeacha.

Treoshuíomh

Cnoc mordán long routes2.jpg

Úsáidtear na téarmaí clé agus deas ag féachaint duit ar an gcnoc. Toisc go bhfuil na carraigeacha scaipthe ar thaobh an chnoic ní foláir aire a thabhairt agus an ceann scríbe a aimsiú ón talamh réidh.

Ar clé ar fad tá An Ghualainn Bhuí: dhá leac bhuí le céim ghearr ina seasamh i gceann acu.

Ar dheis uaidh seo tá Easca Binn an Ghabhair, a ritheann ó bhun go barr an tsléibhe. Soir uaidh seo atá Binn an Ghabhair, achar casta leac agus ballaí.

Cnoc mordán overview2.jpg

Ar dheis, ag bun Na Binne tá balla dubh cearnógach. Is é seo Stake Wall.

Os cionn Stake Wall agus ar clé tá an ghné is soiléire – leac ard, ghlan, liath a bhfuil cruth cnáimhe uirthi. Tá cúpla bealach le fáil anseo.

Tá Binn an Ghabhair scartha ó Bhinn an Duine ag easca mhór atá claonta ar clé. Seo í Easc na Glasóige.

An Ghualainn Bhuí

Chun na bealaí seo a aimsiú ní foláir leaca briste ar thaobh chlé Easca Bhinn an Ghabhair a chur díot. Féach an grianghraf.
Is féidir teacht anuas ón mbarr i gceachtar de na heascain, ach a bheith cúramach.
1. Cleeves Toffee. V. Diff.
Seasann balla 3m in airde mar chéim ar an droim. Tosnaigh díreach faoi thaobh chlé an bhalla, in aice le clais chearnach atá 1m ar doimhne, leathmhéadar ar leithead, ar do thaobh dheis.
1. 35m. Dreap an leac de bhealach lúbach, fásra á sheachaint. Seasamh ag bun an bhalla.

2. 40m. Bain amach siolpa ar clé agus lean ort i gcúinne chun leac a aimsiú. Gabh suas agus ar dheis go dtí siolpa beag féarach. Ansin téigh in airde beagán ar clé chuig an barr.

2. Thieves Coffee. V. Diff.
1. 35m. Lean líne Cleeves Toffee ach beagán ar dheis agus tóg seasamh ar dheis.
2. Gabh in airde ar thaobh dheis an bhalla go dtí an leac os a cionn. Dreap cúinne an bhalla le teacht amach ar leac oscailte. Díreach in airde ar dtús, ar clé ina dhiaidh, ansin ar dheis, an siolpa féarach á sheachaint go dtí barr na leice.

Binn an Ghabhair

Ag breathnú duit ar an mBeann ón mbóthar feicfidh tú leac liath le cruth cnáimhe bréagaí uirthi. Tá cúpla bealach ar an leac seo. Gabh suas an easca chun bun na leice a aimsiú. I gcóngar, glacann an ghné seo cruth bróige aird, an tsáil ar dheis.

3. Odour of Sanctity. V. Diff. 55m
1. 25m. Gabh suas an droim ag méar na bróige chun cúinne a aimsiú. Dreap an cúinne go dtí siolpa féarach agus tóg seasamh ann.
2. 30m. Tóg céim ar clé agus gabh suas balla beag go dtí pointe tosaithe dhá scoilt. Gabh suas an scoilt ar clé chun seasamh a shroichint. Déan crúbadach go dtí an barr.

4. Paschal Fire. Mild Severe. 55m.
1. 25m. Mar Odour of Sanctity.
2. 30m. Gabh in airde as cúinne chun leac ar dheis a aimsiú. Lean ort go dtí dhá chaolscoilt. Lean an scoilt ar dheis chun seasamh a shroichint. Aníos leat ag crúbadach go dtí an barr.

Níos ísle ná an chnámh bhréagach tá balla timpeall 5m ar airde le paiste dubh air le feiceáil ón mbóthar. Díreach anuas ón bpaiste dubh tá leac i bhfoirm traipéisiam. Is anseo atá an chéad bhealach eile.

5. Stake Wall. Mild Severe. 60m.
1. 30m. Dreap scoilt go barr na leice. Aníos leat ag crúbadach go bun na cnáimhe bréagaí.

2. 30m. Last Rites.
Gabh suas an scoilt fhiartrasna ar clé go dtí siolpa. Céim ar dheis chuig scúp chun scoilt a aimsiú, caol ar dtús; lean í seo chuig leac atá níos éasca agus glac seasamh ina diaidh.

Hata an Easpaig

Hata an easpaig.jpg

Léiríonn an t-ainm cosúlacht na carraige le hata easpaig. Tá sé ar thaobh na láimhe clé ó bhun Binn an Duine.

Vicarious 23m. (VS 4b/c)
Tosnaigh ag an pointe is ísle i lár na carraige. Lean an scoilt lárnach ar feadh 10m. Gabh ar clé agus aimsigh scoilt eile. Lean í seo go n-imíonn sí as. Gabh suas go cúramach ar an leac (fadhb) chun siolpa a aimsiú ar an bhfaobhar. Lean an t-imeall go barr.
G. Galligan, P. O Leary, 18/03/2012

Serpents of the Empire 27m. (VS 4b/c)
Suas chuig siolpa féarach. Lean an scoilt lárnach a athraíonn go h-ionsá thuas agus ar dheis. Nuair a chasann an t-ionsá go tobann ar dheis téigh in airde go cúramach idir dhá scoilt go dtí an faobhar. Níos fusa thuas.
G. Galligan, P.O Leary, S. O Hanlon, 18/04/2014

Leac Happy

Leac Happy.jpg

Tá an leac seo inaitheanta de bharr roinnt paistí de léicean bhán atá scaipthe uirthi.

Happy Go Deo. S
Lean an scoilt i lár na leice i dtreo na láimhe clé.
G. Galligan, S. O Hanlon, 13/11/2011

Pleiades. D/V. Diff.
Gabh díreach suas an leac i measc paistí léicin.
G. Galligan, S. O Hanlon, 13/11/2011

Gan Ainm. D/V. Diff.
Gabh in airde ar thaobh dheas na leice, ag dul thar siolpa.
G. Galligan, S. O Hanlon, 13/11/2011

Na Snathaidí, Cnoc Mordán, Iorras Aithneach. English version

Cnoc Mordán is a granite hill 353m. high on the Iorras Aithneach peninsula, an area renowned for its rich heritage of music and song and part of the Connemara gaelteacht. The nearest towns are Cill Ciarán and Carna.

The area which is of interest to climbers is Na Snathaidí on the south side of the hill overlooking Cill Ciarán Bay. It offers magnificent views over sea and islands with Brandon in Kerry visible on a good day. This spectacular panorama alone makes the venue well worth a visit.

There is a line of easy angled crags stretching north-eastward for several hundred metres (O.S: L874378 to L877380), beneath Pt. 307. The granite is excellent, clean and coarse. There are a considerable number of unclimbed walls and delicate slabs which remain to be explored. Binn an Duine offers an unclimbed steepish slab high up on the slopes which is well above 50m. in height and awaits those who like long, unprotected run-outs on good friction. There are many unclimbed short slabs on the hillside which can provide interest and training opportunities. The possibilities have only been scratched.

Getting there

From Maam Cross head south on R336 for approximately 8km to Screeb and then west and south-west towards Carna on R340 for about 10kms. to Loch Conaortha. One can also approach from Galway on the R336 which runs along Cois Farraige to Indreabhán and then through Casla and Rosmuc to Screeb. There is a parking place for two cars just past the bridge over the outlet from Loch Conaortha. From here walk back along the road past the house on the left. About 50m. past the house and a few metres past a rowan tree a barely discernable path, rocky at first, leads off to the left. Straight ahead, at about 400m. where the slope begins, there is a fence running parallel to the road. There is a gate in the fence which is hidden behind a small rocky knoll. Use it and tie it when you have passed through, don't climb the fence. Fence climbers are less welcome than the ebola virus. The path, which can be difficult to locate, leads to this knoll. From the gate rough ground, gradually steepening, leads to the climbs.

Orientation

All descriptions use right and left as viewed from below.

An Ghualainn Bhuí

To reach these climbs one scrambles up broken slabs to the left of Easca Binn an Ghabhair. (I do not follow this description, SOH)This is a good introduction to the qualities of the local granite. A little more than half-way up, the narrow gully is joined by a smaller gully sloping up from the left. Just a little higher there is a triangular white slab in the middle of the gully. At the level of the bifurcation, traverse left on slabs and grassy patches towards a ridge which gradually becomes more obvious. In profile a short steep step on this ridge become visible. The first climb begins about 35 metres directly below the left corner of this step.(It is easier to approach this point by a gradually rising traverse from the foot of the narrow gully but the lack of landmarks makes the start of the climb difficult to locate).

Descents, somewhat tricky, can be made down either of the main grass gullies or at right and left extremities of crag.

Directly beneath the left corner of the 3m wall which forms the step on the ridge a series of easy-sloping slabs run for about 35m. between steep grassy slopes.

1 Cleeves Toffee V.Diff.
1. 35m. From a large grassy ledge to the left of a four metre-long square-cut cleft about a metre deep and half a metre in width climb slabs by a winding route avoiding any vegetation. Belay beneath wall.
2. 40m. Gain a ledge at the left side of the wall and then up a corner to emerge on a long exposed slab. Traverse up and right to small grassy ledge. Then slightly left and up on good friction to belay.
Traverse right to gully to descend or scramble to top.

2. Thieves Coffee V.Diff.
1. 35m. As for Cleeves Toffee on similar slabs slightly to the right. Belay beneath right corner of wall.
2. Climb right corner of wall to emerge on long exposed slab. Traverse up and left, then right, avoiding small grassy ledge. Continue up to belay as for Route 1.

There is an obvious and promising rib separating the grassy gully from a smaller narrower grassy vertical strip to its left. This is a disappointing scramble with one Diff. move.

Binn an Ghabhair

Viewed from below and about half-way up the buttress there is what looks like a grey slab shaped somewhat like an artificial dog’s bone but with a wider waist. There are several climbs on this feature. As one approaches this feature from the slabs on the left of Easca Binn an Ghabhair it acquires the appearance of calf-length boot in profile with its heel on the right. Cross the easca to reach the toe of the boot.

3 Odour of Sanctity V.Diff.
1. 25 m. Climb rib which forms toe of boot to reach obvious corner. Climb corner to small grassy ledge and belay.
2. 30m. Step left and climb short wall to a point where two shallow cracks lead upwards. Climb left crack to belay.
Scramble to top.

4 Paschal fire 'Mild Severe.
1. 25m. As for Odour of Sanctity.
2. 30 m. Climb out of corner to reach slab on right. Up to two shallow cracks. Climb right-hand crack to belay. Scramble to top.

Below dog-bone feature and to the right there is a short rock-wall about 5m. high with obvious black patch visible from the road. Directly above black patch is a trapezium-shaped slab. This is Stake Wall which is about 15m. high.'

5 Stake Wall. Mild Severe

1. 30m. Climb crack to top of wall and scramble to grassy ledge beneath dog-bone feature.
2. 30m Last Rites Walk up and slightly right into a grassy channel. Climb a crack which goes up and left from the channel and gain a ledge. Step right into a scoop and gain a crack, thin at first, which leads to easier slabs and belay.
Pitch 1 P. O Leary, S. O Hanlon, 13/11/2011
Pitch 2 G. Galligan, P. O Leary, S. O Hanlon, 18/4/2014


Jackal Slab


There is a slab 15m below and right of Stake Wall with a small protruding bush in the middle of the slab.


DAY OF THE JACKAL VS 4b 20m

Barry Watts, Gerry Galligan, 29/10/2016

Climb the leftward-trending thin crack to the heather. Finish up the blank slab to the top.


Brexit Slab

There is another wide slab 30m above and right of Stake Wall


BREXIT VS 4c * 16m

Gerry Galligan, Barry Watts, 29/10/2016

This excellent route climbs the thin leftward-trending crack in the middle of the slab. Protection is adequate but tricky to place.


Hata an Easpaig

As the name implies this is an outcrop which resembles a bishop's mitre in shape. It is left of the foot of Binn an Duine.

Vicarious 23m (VS 4b/c)
Starts at the centre and lowest part of Hata an Easpaig. Takes the main crack in the middle of the slab, diverting up to a left-trending crack at ten metres. Continue up this crack and when it fades out move delicately up slab (crux) to gain the a ledge on the arete. Finish up the arete to the top.
G. Galligan, P.O Leary. 18 March 2012

Serpents of the Empire 27m (VS 4b/c)
Climb to a grassy ledge. In the centre of the slab, follow the main crack/intrusion up and rightfrom here. When the intrusion veers right make delicate moves up between two cracks to the arete and easier ground.

Leac Happy

This slab is marked with a numbers of patches of white lichen

Happy go deó S
Follow the left-trending crack in the middle of the slab.
G. Galligan, S. O Hanlon 13 November 2011

Pleiades D/VD Climb directly up the slab, passing a scatter of spots of white lichen
G. Galligan, S. O Hanlon 13 November 2011

Gan Ainm D/VD
Climb the right side of the slab via a ledge.
G. Galligan, S. O Hanlon 13 November 2011