Chimney Rock Mountain

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J367262 Carr's face is an extensive quarry on the north side of Chimney Rock Mountain. It is most easily reached by following the Bloody Bridge River Quarry Track until nearly at the main quarry. Follow an old railway line back up the hill to the left to reach the workings which are easily seen from the valley.


Catwalk 30m S 4a S. J. Crymble, W. Jenkins. 29/8/65 Start - on old slabs left of main quarry. Climb crack and move right diagonally to finish.


Disappointment 30m S 4a S. J. Crymble, W. Jenkins. 29/8/65 Start - in the corner left of newer main slab. Move up right across slabs to finish up generally greasy terraced wall.


M.O.T. 115m E1 4b, 4b, 5b R. Young, P. Hargreaves. 24/7/96. The whole route is poorly protected with virtually no gear in any of the pitches or for the belays - the only good runner is on the third pitch - but don't let this put you off. Start - in the middle of the main face just to the right of the bottom series of overlaps. 1) 45m Climb up the middle of the face trending slightly left to cross the second band of overlaps at an obvious weakness (slightly broken looking rock with a small corner/groove rising up from the overlaps). 2) 50m More careful smearing up the centre of the slab eventually leads up to a jumble of larger blocks beneath the final headwall. 3) 20m Finish up the middle of the steep headwall (3 Friend in remains of borehole at base of headwall.


Other short lines have been climbed, and on the summit tors of Chimney Rock are further short problems.