Carrick Mountain

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Printed guidebook available here

This little crag at grid reference T236940 lies on the eastern slopes of Carrick Mountain above an area of closely-planted forest. It has a sheltered sunny aspect and it can offer a day's climbing when Glendalough and Luggala are too wet or too cold for consideration. It does, however, suffer from seepage, and takes some time to dry after heavy rain, so bear this in mind. For a small crag it offers a good variety of routes: delicate slabs, airy chimneys, steep faces and overhanging cracks.

Head south from Dublin on the M11 (the main Dublin/Wexford road) and exit at Junction 16(Rathnew/Wicklow), and at the roundabout in Rathnew take the road towards Rathdrum. Follow this direction to the village of Glenealy, and park in the village. Take the side-road opposite the pub and cross the bridge. A narrow road leads off left next to a small church, before the community hall. Follow this to where it ends, after one kilometer, at a forest entrance (marked Private Road). There is no parking space at the end of this road

After crossing the barriers at the forest entrance, go straight ahead and follow the road through the eucalyptus trees as it curves up and back left to another junction. Turn right here and, after about 50m, take the narrow MTB trail striking up left. Follow this uphill, crossing another forest road en route, on reaching a second forest road turn left and pick up another MTB trail on your right, follow this to emerge at a complex junction of roads and tracks. Take the road slanting up right and after about five minutes the crag is up on the left, hidden by trees. Mountain-craft will be needed to access it. The walk-up takes at least forty-five minutes.

Alternatively, park at the forest entrance at Aghowle and contour around the hill to the complex junction (see map below). This route may be a bit longer but involves less height gain so the effort may be equal.

The routes are short, varying from 8 to 20m in length. They are described from left to right and descent is easiest at the extreme left of the crag.

Map and topo at end of this page

WARMING UP     8m     VD
Start at the left-hand end of the left-facing wall. Climb a short ramp and move left to finish.
G. Moss, 2/6/1992

SUN LOUNGING    9m    HS(4b)
Start 3m right of Warming Up at a short groove. Climb this past a pocket to a ledge left of furze; directly up the short wall behind to finish.
J. Lyons, D. Wall. 14/9/2003

Start just right of the previous route, at a shallow groove. Climb the groove on small holds to the ledge right of the furze. Finish up the short cracked wall above the tree. The difficulties are short but poorly protected.
G.Moss, B.Hannon, 23/11/1992

Moving around to the right, there is an unclimbed crack and groove above a spike at the left-hand edge of the overhanging face. Further right, the crack splitting the roof at it's widest point has yet to be done.

NRG*     13m    E2(5b/5c).
Start to the left of the deep, wide chimney, at a shallow groove. Climb the groove and the right-hand crack in the overhang above; strenuous but well protected.
T. O'Neill, G. Moss 5/10/1996

SORCHAS.     15m    VS(4b).
Bridge up the chimney between its right-hand edge and the left wall, passing outside the chockstone. Overcoming the narrows provides an airy crux.
G.Moss, B.Norton. 19/9/1992.


Sorchas VS4b

DORCHAS     15m    D
Start as for Sorchas. Move up the floor of the chimney to a step halfway along. Bridge up to finish behind the chockstone.
G.Moss. 2/6/1992.

CARRICK CRACK*     11m    VS(4c).
Start at the right-hand edge of the steep, narrow wall, just left of another broad chimney, below a crack. Make a difficult move to gain a sloping ledge. Climb the crack above which is strenuous, but well protected.
B.Norton, G.Moss. 19/9/1992.

DOUBLE DECKER     15m    HS(4b)
Bridge up the flared walls of the chimney
J. Lyons, D. Wall. 14/9/2003

Start just right of the chimney, at the foot of a short, right trending ramp. Climb the ramp and finish up the cracked wall and the ledges above.
B.Norton, G.Moss. 19/9/1992.

GENTLE AIRS    18m    HS(4b)
Climb the front edge of the large spike with a delicate finish. Continue up the easy broad arête.
J. Lyons, D. Wall. 14/9/2003


Gentle Airs HS4b

ON THE RUN    18m    HS(4b)
Start at a deep recess to the right of the spike. Climb the flake crack on the left with a strenuous pull onto the ledge. Move right onto a short slab and up this past a break to upper slab, working slightly right to finishing bulge.
J. Lyons, D. Wall. 14/9/2003

GARVAGHY ROAD.     18m     VS(4c)
Start behind the holly tree, below a narrow jammed flake at 2m. Move up to a ledge and gain the top of the flake. Difficult moves off the flake provide the crux.
G.Moss, T.O'Neill. 13/7/1996


Garvaghy Road VS4c

QUEEN'S HIGHWAY.     20m     E1(5b)
Start 2m right of Garvaghy Road, below the left edge of the 20m slab. Climb a bulge to the foot of the slab and follow an incipient crack line 1m left of the grass-filled crack. Thin moves, poorly protected, lead to a good finish.
T. O'Neill, G. Moss. 13/7/1996

GLORIOUS TWELFTH.     20m     VS(4c)
Start 2m right of Queens Highway. Climb a bulge moving right to a ledge and good nut placement below the centre of the slab. Climb straight up, at first with difficulty and then more easily, to the top.
G. Moss, L. Convery. 12/8/1995

APPRENTICE BOYS     20m     S(4a)
Start at a block, a few metres right of Glorious Twelfth. Good in-cut holds lead to a small bracket. Gain this (crux) and continue pleasantly to the top.
L. Convery, G. Moss 12/8/1995

Carrick Mountain topo by Gerry Moss


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